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  2. One can register with http://www.toyota-tech.eu and have a browse. Be aware that some information is free to download, some chargeable.
  3. Where is the air con ecu situated and where can i find a diagram
  4. Hi, new to this. My mrs recently bought a 2010 Auris 1.6 TR valvematic. I recommended her getting a Toyota as I've been an owner or two corollas and a 2006 celica gt, which I regret getting rid of. Anyway. There is a pretty annoying knocking coming through what seem the steering column on the Auris. I've had it in our workshop today and had the speedo cluster out, steering cowling and the covers under the column. No free play or joint knackersd under the car either. It has an electric motor on the steering column, which not all Auris do I believe. There is no free play from any of the UJ's either. And it only knocks below 20 mph when the steering is lighter. Once above that and the steering becomes heavier, which I presume is the electric motors job, the knocking goes away and can't even be felt with a quick side to side shake on the steering wheel. Anyone ever had this problem or heard of anything like it? Thanks in advance!
  5. Today
  6. The chip does work, I think it is more powerful but cant really tell you by how much unless i do a few drag races or put it on a rolling road! Mpg is supposed to increase as more torque is generated and therefore need less throttle to pull away, im lead to believe, but my car must have problems to get utter bs mpg etc.
  7. Really? That's impressive! From what I'd seen previously about hybrids on motorways Id have thought a constant high speed run would be 50mpg ish so 60 would be great
  8. On my old 2001 Ford Mondeo V6 with Iridium plugs, the recommended change was at 60K and that's a car with the ICE running all the time. I reckon the Prius could go 100K+ easily one one set of plugs providing no corrosion gets to them.
  9. 60ish if you are lucky... (long motorway journey)
  10. well you've paid for the dab radio and yes it should work so get it back to the dealer and let them sort it out hope it goes well for you and its sorted out
  11. They MOT tester was miserable and looked in his late 50's or early 60's, probably hates modded cars full stop. Taking it to kwik fit to ask wether they would pass with current exhaust, I'll see what they say.
  12. Hello - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.
  13. well i went into the dealers today with the wind noise problem and they checked the car over and couldn't see anything rubbing and they took me out in another car and it made the same noise at the back and also it was noisier at the front than my car on the way home i decided to try Devon Aygos suggestion and i took the ariel off and the noise dissapeared completely so dusty if your listening try removing the ariel before you remove the windscreen as you might be lucky too and better than removing the windscreen and i thought the noise was from the bottom left rear and i had my camera all over the back and it didnt pick any noise from the roof, just goes to show so thanks very much devon aygo, you made my day and fordulike who suggested removing the ariel in the past thanks also
  14. It's a silly rule in my opinion. It's not like emissions where they stick a probe in and take a reading from the exhaust, and if it's above a threshold then it's a fail. They could do that if they wanted to, take the dB of the exhaust and if it goes above a specific threshold it's a fail. At least then you could accept that the machine had it too loud, so it's probably too loud. But the Police don't have volume meters, the testers dont, it's all reliant on point of view and opinion. Trust me though, after spending the weekend changing my exhaust, if you can afford the labour for a mechanic to do it I'd do it! It's a proper P.I.T.A.
  15. I wonder if you have a bad (i.e. corroded) earth connection to the body or engine? If there is a slight resistance in an earth (or positive feed, for that matter), then when the car starter motor is connected the bad connection will get hot quickly, perhaps making the connection worse until it has cooled down? (I am assuming the machine-gun sound is the battery operating the starter motor solenoid (small current needed), which then tries to connect the starter motor windings (big current needed), a resistance is present somewhere (?) so when there is a big current draw there is a big voltage drop across the poor connection, so there is insufficient voltage to turn the starter now, so the solenoid disconnects, the voltage recovers, and the whole process starts again, rapidly). If this were the case, you might try remaking (loosening then tightening up again) all the bolted electrical connectors on the battery, starter motor and car body/engine. There won't be many, say 4, including the battery terminals themselves. For safety, it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery earth lead first to prevent any accidental short circuits. Corroded connections can start out as intermittent failures.
  16. How much fuel do you have in the tank? I have a 1.33 iQ and have essentially run out of fuel a couple of times. Both times were when the tank was low but still had one or two bars on the gauge, the low warning, flashing bar was not flashing at the time. I pressed the clutch, pressed the start button and heard the wine of the fuel pump which I normally don't hear. The engine spun over but no life. Tried a few times with the accelerator pressed to the floor and on the 4th or 5th time it spluttered into life with smoke and rough running for a few seconds. I had the same again when I started the car from cold, moved it a few feet away from the garage door and turned it off again. 30 minutes later try to start it and no chance, engine spinning but no life until pressing the accelerator again and trying a few times. I can only assume the fuel pump tried sucking fuel to prime the fuel rail before starting but it got a gulp of air from the surface of the fuel. Once the air is in the system it will take a while to clear it and get fuel back to where it's needed. I now make a point of filling up well before the last fuel bar is left. Craig.
  17. It's a cat back exhaust, it's load yeh but they passed it with the same exhaust last year though! I can see why so many garages have a bad rep as they are just out to make money no matter what, £65p/h plus vat plus the cost of the whole exhaust from Toyota. I will just try another MOT station but will ask them about the noise level and wether they would pass it before I put it through.
  18. Well I've booked her in Mr T for Friday, I would like a working DAB radio.
  19. I have been reading up on this, specifically in regards to the Cherry Bomb exhaust, about whether loud exhausts can fail the MOT. This is the rule in the MOT Bible (or whatever book they get their rules from): Regulation 54(2) of the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulation 1986 as amended: ‘Every exhaust system and silencer shall be maintained in good and efficient working order and shall not be altered to increase the noise made by the escape of exhaust gases.’ So you have fitted an aftermarket back box (at least) and and that's the cause of the noise. But this is only a guess as I've no idea what you've changed. The ruling is subjective, so what is loud to one won't be to another. But I think from reading about these things is that if it's loud enough to draw attention to you then it's too loud. I do see their point, as it's not the nicest of things to be falling asleep at 11pm on a Sunday night to hear some clown drive past the house with Jeremy Clarkson shouting out of his exhaust "POWEERRRRRRRRRR". It could be an idea to go to another MOT testing station and see what they say, whether they pass it or not. There's plenty of people who have had a brake light blow out before the test, and the tester will either instantly fail it (because he loves having a bit of power to ruin someones day) or they'll fix it before they test it (because it's nice to be nice).
  20. I apologize for me changing the figures in my post above. Different internet searches state different values. I would say definitely above 13 volts with fans on full and rear demister on. This is to put a good load on the charging system, as it should adjust the amps available to compensate. If the voltage drops badly, then suspect a dodgy alternator or loose drive belt.
  21. iq

    Yes, The heater panel should light up at night. The display should be back-lit and all the buttons and dial dhould have a healthy orange glow to them. Craig.
  22. I assume so?
  23. Hey guys, I can't believe my car failed today because?! Exhaust is to load!!! Oh and headlights not aligned properly. I will realign the headlights obviously but exhaust 😣. The garage said that they would need to replace the whole exhaust with one from Toyota, you can guess what i told them!
  24. Batteries do slightly recover after a period of rest. I would personally charge the battery back up to 100% using an external charger. If the car starts ok, then the engine will be running to check out the alternator voltage, which I believe should be between 13.5 - 14.5 volts.
  25. But thats from this morning so surely trying to start it yesterday again and again would have decreased the batterys charge so why start today and not yesterday
  26. Does it not have electric power steering?
  27. OOPS!! They don't actually include the Catalytic converter but I have found the listing on ebay....It's £279 for the system from Cat to tailpipe or add another £125 for the Cat if needed, so £404, all in. Even when I was writing my previous post, I thought £300 sounded too cheap. I can't give you any feedback on the firm but they do seem honest enough. Anyway here is the listing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-AYGO-NEW-STAINLESS-STEEL-EXHAUST-SYSTEM-/172612357970?hash=item28307f8f52:m:m1JfoQ4SIOodFAUgUNKFUNA Looks like I might have to put a few more spare pounds in the Piggy Bank!
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