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Showing most liked content since 06/24/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 likes
    Had my 2010 Auris Hybrid almost 6 weeks now, obviously getting used to it as I have never driven such a car before. Well, its certainly not for those who like to smell burning rubber. Would be very difficult to do that, unless you have it in POWER mode then all 134bhp comes in. The Hybrid system is obviously for those who 1) want to chase high mpg or 2) want to drive a more environmentally clean car, or a combination of both - like me. It has'nt taken me long to have the mindset that I dont want to be holding others up for the sake of ultimate mpg. I consider travelling slower then other traffic particularly in 30mph areas could be dangerous. So I accelerate briskly whilst still trying to stay in the ECo sector, but occasionally I do go into the POWER section but only briefly then lift off a little on the accelerator. And that is the key I think, go with the flow (keep it legal), then back off on the accelerator. I suppose this is the "pulse and glide" method that is spoke of on this forum. I now tend to keep the graphics on the steering wheel (no big screen on this year model) set to showing "instantaneous" mph (it changes every 4 seconds or so), and its amazing how much fuel can be saved just by reducing pressure on the accelerator pedal. What helps me get the mpg I am achieving is the "HUD" (Heads Up Display) which I got off Ebay for £20. On this I can see my actual mph (set to TomTom speed) and also a engine rev counter. Its amazing how slow the engine turns, 1000 rpm lot of the time. I put this down to the CVT transmission, always being at the right gear ration at the right time. Obviously when battery only is being used then the rev counter drops to zero. Thus another way to tell that I am driving most efficiently - only this reading on HUD is on the screen at eye level, no looking down. I find the CVT transmission really good, its the first time I have owned an automatic, and I love it. So easy and comfortable. The ride on my Auris with 17" low profile tyres is a bit bumpy on roads that we shouldnt be asked to drive on (ie pot holed) but the car holds the road very well. I now have my "really good" seating position, and do feel comfy. I find all the controls are at hand, the only things annoying me is 1) sometimes the turn indicators dont cancel (on the same corners, the indicators on my Qashqai did cancel). This must be a Toyota thing cause the wifes 59 plate Yaris doesnt cancel either. 2) Cant get the right setting for the auto windscreen wipers, still trying hard. Of course, with the batteries being under the back seat, "boot" space is compromised, but no problem to us two. We can still get suit cases in for a weeks holiday, and shopping is no problem - bags go on the floor behind the front seats so they dont fall over. Overall,yes, I am falling in love with the Auris Hybrid.... slowly but getting there. MPG - 60.7, I would like more, but considering the way I am driving it I am pleased at that. What pleases me is the fact I can go through some of the local villages, more then a few nearby, mostly on battery only, therefore not polluting the air that others are breathing, including the young kids in local schools. The car itself has done 64,000 miles, but I reckon the engine will have only been turning for perhaps 40k - 45k, so saving a lot of wear and tear. And of course being able to drive off from rest on battery is saving a lot of petrol fuel and wear on the engine. Yes, very pleased.
  2. 3 likes
    Me and the wife I have been getting on with the Aygo so much, and have been that impressed by the spec, comfort, running costs, value for money etc.. that we decided to see what family cars where in the Toyota Range. We saw a Verso 7 seater at our local dealership, and fell in love with the 'design' model that had leather, touch & go 2 navigation, and lots of other toys.. she has now sold / awaiting collection of her BMW touring., and has placed a deposit on a lovely Verso (some 2.5 hrs from us, at a Toyota main dealer) same situation as before with the aygo.. our local dealers have nothing decent in the used range. I thought I would share the news with you Aygo guys.. that in the space of 1 month we have gone from 2 BMW's to 2 Toyotas.. :) Have a great weekend everyone.
  3. 3 likes
    Yes. It is normal when set below approx 19°C. Try raising the temperature and note the Re-circulate light will go out.
  4. 3 likes
    I wouldn't get fobbed off with a key like that ...
  5. 3 likes
    Oi I heard that!! .........I USED to resemble that remark, however no pie has passed my lips this year and now 2.5 stone the lighter
  6. 3 likes
    100M worldwide, I think I have over half of those in stock at any one time
  7. 3 likes
    The anti-roll bar shouldn't be under tension, as long as both wheels are level at the same height. I've changed links on other vehicles before, with the vehicle on the drive. There's little room to maneuver under there, but doable.
  8. 3 likes
    Article in this week's Auto Express highlights an issue with having an MOT done early. DVSA allows vehicles to have an MOT up to a month early, and if the car passes, the new MOT will go from the expiry date of the existing MOT. According to DVSA, if an MOT is done early and the vehicle fails, that failure supersedes the existing MOT, and the failure is recorded on the national database. This leaves the owner liable to being prosecuted by traffic police, and also invalidates the insurance. The only time one can drive a vehicle with a failed MOT legally, is when one is driving it to be repaired or to a pre-arranged MOT test.
  9. 3 likes
    I think one of the ways is to go to the showroom, find a brand new Aygo and try to feel the floor and see if it feels the same.
  10. 2 likes
    What a lovely day of getting gravel rash and getting wet ankles. Yesterday it absolutely peed it down, so I couldn't do a whole lot. What I managed to do was change the brake pipe leading to the rear offside brake drum. Bought the proper flare nut spanner from Halfords and it was an easy enough change. I left the rest of it as I needed to adjust the shock absorber as I noticed it wasn't square. As well as that, I decided to swap the metal bushes from the poly bushes on the trailing arms. Here's a photo of the one the engineering guys made up for me (left) compared to the ones that came with the bushes (right). Only difference between the two (aside from dimensions) is that the new ones are made from mild steel, not stainless. If this was going to be a permanent fixture I'd have waited for them to get the stainless steel to mill. But as I said before, the whole rear end will be getting new stuff next year so this isn't an issue. What was an issue was this horrible thing. The nearside brake pipe on the drum. Stripped to hell even with the flare nut wrench. Bad photo, but it was raining and I was annoyed so I wasn't fussed. Couldn't do anything really because of the weather, so I waited for today. But in preparation for any weather today, I found the world's worst gazebo and turned my front drive in to a rally stage prepping area. Horrible thing, but it cost £15 from Homebase and it'll do for the next month while I get this car sorted. Before dealing with the brake pipe, I made the most of the dry weather and decided to drill out the anti roll bush bolts that had broken off. They were drilled out fairly easily, although they went back in to the chassis. Not too bothered about that. The thread was slightly damaged from the drilling, so I took the tap and die set and re-thread them. Took the two anti roll bar bolts that didn't break off to test the two newly threaded holes. Perfect fit, tight as well. Job done! I ended up taking a heat gun to the brake union and on it's highest setting I got it glowing a little. I took a pipe wrench and managed to get it off. It wasn't easy, even with the heat. The union looked corroded, the rust had welded it together. But I installed the new pipe without an issue, along with the rubber hose too. So the rear brake drums are now connected to the brake system for the first time in a month. You may notice behind the brake hose that red bar. Well thats the anti roll bar, connected to the new shocks with some new stabiliser links. I divided the anti roll bar bolts, so right now there's one bolt holding both sides to the chassis. I'm going to have to go to Toyota next week (yay!) and order two new bolts, so this isn't technially finished but it's allowed me to crack on. I've no idea what the big black thing is called, sub frame I think? Anyway, that's been stone chipped and had the control arms attached to it. Ignore the exhaust mounting at the top, but you'll see the control arms attached. You'll also notice the fuel tank (under the anti roll bar) is a bit wet looking. There was some corrosion along the lip of it, so I converted the rust and stone chipped it. But with the trolley jack and some blocks of wood (in lieu of any help) I raised it to the body, thrown on some bolts, and boom. Rear suspension (more or less) finished! With that battle won, my attention turned to the front of the car. Along with the attention, the weather also turned. So I was a bit limited to what I could do. I don't have any photos of it, may take some tomorrow, but there's a stabiliser link holding the anti roll bar to the control arm/wishbone. So, logically I decided to take these off first. Allen key goes in, 14mm spanner on the nut, and I go to work. NOTHING HAPPENED. I can turn the spanner, and I can feel tension on the allen key. But when I look at it, the inner thread where the allen key slips in to isn't moving (which is correct) but the nut that is moving isn't moving along the threads towards me if that makes sense? It's like it's broken internally (although I didn't feel/hear it break) and is just stuck. Same applies to the bottom nut too. Now it might be that I didn't spend enough time on it, but I was spinning that spanner for a good 10 minutes and it doesn't move. I'll give it another bash tomorrow morning, but I might just cut the nuts off with a Dremmel. I didn't bother on the near side (this was only on the offside) but I might just take the Dremmel to that, by pass the whole hassle of trying to get it off. It's not as if the links are going to be used or they have anything that I need to reuse. Aside from that, very happy. Time's ticking though, I have 4 weeks to get this mechanical work sorted before I drive it to Ireland. I think now though I've broken the back of this, any tools I was missing I've got now and any bits and pieces I've got here with me (double checked that as best I could).
  11. 2 likes
    Spotted this supercharged Aygo on eBay, whilst browsing the naturally aspirated Aygos. TTS Supercharged TOYOTA AYGO If only Toyota made something like this as part of their normal range. Forget flashy orange, blue and yellow colours, give us this Toyota
  12. 2 likes
    I remember this car from some time back. It is indeed very cheap for a low mileage example with the mods it has, especially when the supercharger alone (including mapping) would cost around the full asking price. This was the car that prompted me to copy (the best form of flattery I am told) the seats - it was because I knew they would fit that I also went for the Sparco 333's! A real nice sleeper, I would have bought this myself had it been around at the time. Would be awesome for embarassing the abundance of Fiesta ST's we have on our roads.
  13. 2 likes
    Picked up the new car yesterday and was more than pleased with the CVT performance,very smooth and easy to drive, even has a sports mode but found the acceleration in P drive was more than acceptable on its own when at roundabouts and side turnings, I always thought that the manual gear box was faster but no fumbling around with gear stick and clutch makes the CVT easier to concentrate on the Roads, Love it
  14. 2 likes
    I managed to put the other shock absorber together, but then I found out (after putting one on the car) that I got the alignment wrong. The shock absorber mount at the top was on the wrong way. So back in the garage they went while I adjusted them, and bish bash bosh they're on the car! A little bit skewiff but once the hub is applied then it should be alright again! Something I should note though is that when I took the old shocks apart I found this rubber ring type thing that sat under the bottom of the spring: It does look tatty around the edges, but the new shocks didn't come with these either. I've decided to put them back on even though theres no mention anywhere about having them on the car. It's a Toyota dealership only item I think too, as none of the websites I use list this. Last night as well I put on one of the trailing arms, but it's quite loose. As in the bolt seems to be too small for the universal poly bush that I bought. It could be that I've used the wrong bolt and that the proper bolt is hiding from me on the garage table, so I'll have a look for them when I get home. But I know the bolt that attaches the control arms to the hub is the ideal fit for these bushes so is worse comes to worse I'll get a thicker bolt and use that instead. Tonight, hopefully, a lot of the suspension will thrown back on to the car. Progress my friends, progress!
  15. 2 likes
    Hi, Gumper, I have a Rav but a 2012 one. Toyota made a bad batch of engines from 2006 to 2008/9. The repair cost is about £7000. Take the reg number/chassis number to a Toyota dealer to get them to look up what work it has done and see if the engine has been replaced, if it hasn't then leave well alone, that is my advise. This applies to diesel engines only. Mike.
  16. 2 likes
    This rumour about the 1.6 Valvematic petrol Auris having a DMF seems to originate from the Honest John website and as far as I can tell has no truth to it whatsoever! I recently had a new clutch fitted to my 2009 1.6 Valvematic and can confirm that mine definitely has a conventional solid flywheel. I added Bluetooth to my standard Toyota radio last year with a £45 kit from Ebay and it works very well.
  17. 2 likes
    The fuel consumption information will be based on usage to date, and will be partly based on driving style, etc. So either zero the multi information display or disconnect the battery for 30 mins to reset things. The DAB button is there for when the DAB module is fitted. Not sure of current prices, but a Toyota dealer should be able to advise or there is eBay. As regards the possible leak, could be coming from the vents behind the rear bumper or the rear lights - where the seals may have perished. New seals or sealant may correct. A Toyota dealer may help with this but would be chargeable. I would be inclined to return to the supplying dealer as they have a responsibility under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, and get them to address the issue.
  18. 2 likes
    The following thread provides info on the AD engine issues - note that the dates mentioned for models affected are build dates which are different to first registration dates:
  19. 2 likes
    the 1CD is a belt-driven engine - has the belt been changed in it's 11 years?
  20. 2 likes
    it's an Avensis thing to do with how the system is powered.
  21. 2 likes
    I know you'll say the key fob should be replaced rather than repaired this way, but I believe a new key fob is just too expensive
  22. 2 likes
    From what I've seen, driving whilst using headphones could result in being charged with 'driving without due care and attention' or careless driving.
  23. 2 likes
    a diesel probably makes sense for your annual mileage & I would have expected the pulley issue to be covered by Toyota's warranty as long as you do not exceed the mileage limits (100k). My advice for anybody with a modern EU 5 or 6 common rail turbodiesel (from any manufacturer) is to only run them within warranty ... They are too complicated (particularly emissions) to have the bullet proof reliability of old units & the cost of repair can be high. The 1.8 petrol is very good, reliable etc. & not too far behind the diesels in mpg (probably ~40mpg rather than 45-50). Very few late plate ones around though.
  24. 2 likes
    Agree with Konrad above. The system decides the best settings for the vents and air con - if the heater is set to a drastically lower temp than the outside ambient air temp, the system knows that it's easier to cool the air it's already cooled than cool 'new' hot air from outside - so it enables recirc mode.
  25. 2 likes
    For all the work you are doing, would one of these be cost effective or just as much to the point, frustration effective ? Seems its the smallest size at 6 ton, plenty of larger ones, but no real idea what pressure such bearings need, would 6 tons do a wheel bearing ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Ton-Hydraulic-Workshop-Press-Floor-Standing-Plates-Ram-Carriage-Garage-Shop-/272006364234?hash=item3f54d7bc4a:g:MXUAAOSw7aBVDNgL
  26. 2 likes
    Try some of this, Isobel: http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/wheel-tyre-cleaning/carplan-black-trim-wax-375ml It might get rid of the scratches/scuffs, if they are not too bad, or you could use the old school method.....Black shoe polish and a top coat of clear, car wax after it has set. To be fair, your neighbours should really be paying for a visit from Chips Away, seeing as their Ka wanted to be "friends" with Rosie....She might have a great big "X" on the front but that's not an invitation to move in for a kiss, is it?
  27. 2 likes
    Depends what the lighting was set at on delivery.
  28. 2 likes
    To adjust the instrument lighting, one needs to have the sidelights on. Push one of the two display buttons until the light control display shows (a series of dashes - up to six across and between one and three high). Then push and hold one of the buttons until the display flashes. For brighter lighting push the right hand button. To set at the chosen level either push and hold one of the display buttons, or turn the sidelights off.
  29. 2 likes
    They look great mick your getting there👍Top work buddy.
  30. 2 likes
    In fairness rust won't comprimise the spring's strength (apparently). If springs do go they just snap. Could be on a none rusted part, could be on any part of it. Just thought as the shocks would be looking wish and black I might as well smarten it all up :)
  31. 2 likes
    I have bought some cobalt steel drill bits for my drill and I'm picking up a tap and die set on Saturday. So in that respect the removal of sheered bolts are sorted - nearly. To replace them? Haven't thought about it at the moment. Didn't think of stainless bolts so I'll definately think about it. And come on you know as well as I do given the chance you'd paint your springs blue to match your Carina
  32. 2 likes
    Then there is Bullitt -
  33. 2 likes
    Tame garage? I have you know my garage isn't a mess but it's creatively organised! In fairness though I need to clear it out as I've just been working and dropping things in situ. I got the dampers from Online Car Parts, I got the bushes from Micks Garage. Prefer the service of Micks Garage at the moment if I'm honest! Thanks for the link to the site I'll check it out.
  34. 2 likes
    I changed the part for a good one from a car in the breakers yard. See my post It is not really a seal, more for looks.
  35. 2 likes
    You will have to factor in cam/timing and water pump change if you do the mileage or keep it long enough - unless that has been done before you got the car. I checked the cars outside dimensions and it is a bigger car - Insignia hatchback vs Avensis Tour. The insignia has one major advantage over the Avensis - hatchback. Secondly some have normal hand/parking brake. Thom still has the Avensis, so he could on here in the future - probably sharing his Insignia experience.
  36. 2 likes
    Ha. What the eye don't see the mechanic gets away with👌
  37. 2 likes
    Calamity! Got to the car this evening, managed to get the offside rear shock absorber off (with a little help from my friend Mr.Angle-Grinder), leaving only the anti roll bar still attached. What I did was cut the stabiliser in half, leaving half on the old shock absorber and half attached to the anti roll bar, reasoning I could get it off better on the bench. The nuts that hold the bush on to the frame (and the roll bar) on the offside came off fine. The near side bolts? HA! They broke off in my hand. Both of them. Both broken inside the frame, nothing standing proud. So I have to drill them out and get a tap and die set to re-do the holes. Amazing work I feel! Anyway, on a brighter note my exhaust is ready and I will pick it up Saturday morning.
  38. 2 likes
    You could also try some PIAA silicone wipers - I put a set on when I bought this Yaris and I've never needed to change them, vs having to change regular wipers every 1-2 years on my old Yaris. They are smooth as silk and silent all the time, even when you have light 'sticky' rain that causes normal wipers to make that horrible screeching sound. And they don't just do that when new - I think they've been on my car for 3-4 years now and they work just as well as when I bought them! They also make the windscreen hydrophobic over time - At 70mph in heavy rain I can turn off my wipers and the visibility is better than having the wipers flick across the screen rapidly! The only downside with them is they're a bit pricey compared to normal wipers, but IMHO they are well worth it as they'll far outlast normal rubber wipers.
  39. 2 likes
    Thanks for the info everybody. The tyres are a cheap brand so I think replacing them is the way to go.
  40. 2 likes
    Link goes to "Item has been removed or is not available"
  41. 2 likes
  42. 2 likes
    Hi AO :) Just been out to the beast..sat in the passenger seat and pushed around in the foot-well in many places.. whilst there is moment, I think most of it is the carpet lifting up & down. So to summarise..In my car there is no moment that concerns me. Sorry , that probably doesn't help you Vassilis.
  43. 2 likes
    Love it that my photo is helping people all these years later
  44. 2 likes
    Hello everyone, I'm Leonardo, 28 from Tuscany, Italy. I'm here as long as the italian toyota forum looks quite dead and I'm going to evaluate the possibility to buy a 2007 Auris 2.0 D4-D with just 60.000 miles and I'd like to know more about this car and its engine. See you soon!
  45. 2 likes
    Ace Steve. Looks and Sounds an amazing day!
  46. 2 likes
    It was a wonderful day and the sunshine was out for us in Saltburn by the sea, and with Ironopolis in the back ground amazing, and with people coming from the south & northwest didn't even know this place existed and were blown away with the views.
  47. 2 likes
    A quick update! I did the journey again, but in reverse (effectively clockwise, as it were). Temperatures were in the low 30C (that is hot for UK) and A/C set to 19C, non-ECO, cruise controlled and 30% of journey at 70mph. Average mpg over trip was about 60.
  48. 2 likes
    Indeed! I didn't say what happened when I went to look for new rear bushes though. Very nearly wrote the car off due to costs. With the control arms on these Corolla's, you can't buy the bushes from Toyota. You can only buy the arm assembly. So from Toyota the cost of replacing all the bushes would've come to £1,100. Even with the guy you recommended with polyurathene bushes, I was looking at £200 (or £300 for the arms). Ended up stumbling across Micks Garage and they sell the bushes separately, ended up with the set for £55 including postage. The rubber bushes are only temporary while I save up for further upgrades to the suspension, so this will do for the time being.
  49. 2 likes
    Download the file and open, double click on the .exe file and run the extraction ( don't use windows to extract ) extract to the root of empty USB, do not alter the file. Use the PDF to complete the update on your head unit 13TPDAEU-EA01_0003.zip
  50. 2 likes
    I never normally go to the trouble of leaving a review about anything unless it's to warn people of a 'bad' business or service ect but genuinely felt the need to write this after finding a negative comment on here about the business.... I have been to a lot of breakers yards over the years and I have NEVER dealt with one like this!!!! Its called 'BREAKING TOYOTA' and is located in bury (uk) I made my first visit ever to them yesterday.... To describe them as helpful and friendly is a major understatement!!! The service was impeccable and faultless, i delt with the main man 'jimmy' and after being offered the parts I required at an unmissable price by phone I organised to visit on a Saturday, I was unaware that they closed early on a Saturday and even though I never confirmed a time I would arrive they stayed open to wait for me! I arrived around an hour after the time they usually close and was still met with smiles and helpful staff, I'm pretty sure any other breakers yard would have closed up assuming I had changed my mind and wasn't coming (as I say, we never agreed a time or appointment, I simply said I would call in on Saturday) I required quite a few parts for my truck and they had everything ready for me to look at and obviously had the donor vehicles available to look at too, there was just one body panel they didn't have in the colour I wanted (which they seemed more upset about than me!) but they have already made arrangements for the part to reach me in a few days as they are expecting a new vehicle in!! Now THATS 1st class service!!! I also got a !Removed! good discount for collecting the parts in person and even picked up a few extras that caught my eye. If your going to call into the yard then I highly recommend visiting on a Saturday so you have the pleasure of meeting the boss Jimmy, as he tells me it's the only day he really gets to get out of the office and greet the customers, he is so helpful so informative and will stand and talk to you for as long as you will listen, a proper top bloke!! I honestly can't recommend these guys enough. A real credit to the industry and they have restored my faith in 'scrap men'