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Showing most liked content since 03/26/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 likes
    Hi Konrad, I reiterate my earlier statement that lack of oil is still the most common failure of engines even today. I, like you, check mine weekly, even thigh is has never used a drop. There may come a day when that changes and I don't want to be taken by surprise.
  2. 3 likes
    Hi I looked previously at the forum for solutions to a IQ 1.3 spare tire (normal tyre size 16").Then poached the idea to purchase a small space saver wheel and cover to store it behind the passenger seat.Its quite a neat solution. The wheel is 14" purchased on eBay £45, fits ok (as i did a test run on the front wheel).As there is only an inch difference between 16" and 14" there is little discernible slant on the vehicle and should be safe to limp home on under 50mph. Just wanted to share the joy and thank previous posts.
  3. 3 likes
    Have posted my avensis up before but can't find the thread so just updating here. 2litre D4D just touching 352,000 and going strong. I've had the car of the road the past few weeks and got two new doors, back bumper and two facelift fenders from 2007 onwards t25. Only to get bumper and headlights and it will be ready for more prep and paint. This summer coilovers and 18in wheels will be got, half leather seats and few other mods to change the scene round my area.
  4. 3 likes
    Sorted it! I changed the drivers door lock for a new one, well, repaired one. The central locking is driven by a small electic motor about 20mm round and 25mm in length. They only turn a few rotations to unlock and then a few rotations in reverse to unlock again. Both of mine have now needed to be replaced as they fill up with carbon and the comutator gets burned out. If anyone needs help in doing this let me know and I'll write up the procedure. Anyway, I fitted the repaired lock to the drivers door today so now I have both doors fitted with new motors but it still wouldn't work. Dropped into the dealer on the way home and booked it in for diagnosis Monday morning but when I got home I decided to keep on playing. Looking at the wiring diagram I noticed there is more than one fuse that operates the central locking so I checked all of them, 3 in total and the last fuse I checked, a 15 amp one, was blown. I popped up the road to Halfords to buy the worlds most expensive micro blade fuses at over £1 each, got home, popped a new fuse in and hey presto, everything working again. All I can guess is the electric motor in the drivers door lock was at the point where it was drawing so much current to turn, that it blew the fuse. Odd thing was the fuse to unlock the doors was still good so the doors were still making the unlock sound but the blown fuse seemed to stop the doors from locking and stopped the rear door doing anything. The fuse in question was D/L No.1 (15 Amp) and is located under the dashboard in the passengers foot well. Craig.
  5. 3 likes
    When I bought my iQ at 36k miles the CVT gearbox was whiny when high load was put on it; such as full acceleration to motorway speed. Once I changed the CVT fluid the noise completely disappeared. The fluid was very dirty and was far from the transparent red wine colour is started its life as. There doesn't seem to be any official Toyota Service Intervals for the CVT gearbox and I think a lot of people assume that they are therefore sealed for life. Given the whine I was experiencing with my car I decided to change the CVT fluid myself. The fluid needed for our CVT equipped cars is the Genuine Toyota CVT FE fluid. Part number is 08886-02505. You can order the fluid from Toyota Parts with this number. I have made a crude image to show how the gearbox is drained and then refilled to the correct amount: You need to remove the drain plug with an allen key head but the fluid inside will not drain much. The inner plastic tube needs to be screwed out with a similar sized allen head key as it is threaded the same as the drain plug. Once removed the fluid will drain. Once drained insert the inner plastic tube back in and screw it in slowly until it comes to a stop. Do not tighten this with much force, just only very slightly snug. Leave the drain plug off and remove the fill plug from the top. It is to the left of the battery and just above the air filter housing. You'll see it. It is a T55. Once removed you can either choose to fill up the gearbox until the fluid starts to leak through the inner plastic tube or simply replace with the exact same amount that was removed providing you measure it accurately. Once filled you can put back both the drain and fill plugs. It is your choice as to how often you wish to change your CVT fluid but I recommend it to everyone who hasn't already done so or has any paperwork to suggest it was already done. I don't believe Toyota would include in any type of regular service so unless it was changed privately by a garage upon request then I don't think it would have been flushed. Good luck.
  6. 3 likes
    You have a code reader, so should know what the codes mean. I Googled the codes and P0136 means the downstream sensor is not working properly. P0430 means the catalytic convertor is not functioning properly either. This means the cat' could be damaged or contaminated, and the sensor is telling the ECU, or the sensor is misreading the exhaust. Sometimes the pre-cat sensor is not working properly, causing the wrong adjustment and the post sensor reads gasses. Once the cat' is damaged, there is nothing more that can be done but change it. The exhaust needs inspection and the sensors checked. What engine - 1ZZ ? Hi oil consumption can damage the cat' with prolonged use. Basically oil contamination! Check the exhaust by revving the engine, to see signs of blue smoke. There are no cheap fixes.
  7. 3 likes
    Alan is correct. Changed well over a year ago. Here is my post:- You need piston wind back tool with reverse function or a kit with both clockwise/anti-clockwise. Your EPB should be the early version where you have to apply it manually when switching off the engine. Later version which auto apply have a service mode - you pull and hold the button, if I remember correctly.
  8. 3 likes
    Konrad did a write up when he did his a while ago. Try a search for rear brakes or similar in this Avensis forum.
  9. 3 likes
    They might even start charging for the carbon diode we breathe out
  10. 3 likes
    There's scientific data that suggests the depletion of the ozone layer helped cool the planet down. Since it's been growing back, the temperature has started to rise. But this isn't about the environment or public health. If the government were that bothered about our health processed foods would be banned outright, along with diet drinks etc. This is a question of money.
  11. 3 likes
    If I travel to London, which is over a hundred miles south of Birmingham, I always start sweating. It might be more to do with the cost of everything there more than the weather though!
  12. 3 likes
    Wireing the headlights up this week, and finishing other bits off. Gave it a valet etc last week as it's been lying in dirt and no heat going threw it.
  13. 3 likes
    Hi Matt - I'm in the process of doing this now. I did quite a bit of research first - I remember seeing Craigs' solution and seriously considering something similar, as I've used fibreglass before. (excellent job btw Craig!) Eventually though, decided to go with a double din. It is a straight swap out from a technological point of view, you can put pretty much what ever you want in headunit-wise. The TNS is an option, obviously, and will fit straight in and work with your IQ (with the correct wiring loom, as you pointed out) The real obstacle for most, I assume, is the fascia parts required, as they are pretty expensive bought new from Toyota. They ARE straight forward to get, though. Along with the cost of a TNS, it can work out prohibitively expensive for most. I decided to go with the correct fascia upgrades, but with a carefully selected Chinese aftermarket double din unit. Before anyone breaks out in a panic-sweat (!!) I have done this before, with my MKV Golf R32. I admit to being nervous for a while, but over 2 years on, and I've no complaints at all about the unit in the Golf. So, I decided to go with something similar in the IQ. I managed to find two of the 6 extra trim pieces needed on ebay (in the U.S.) which saved some money, then grimaced and got the rest from local dealer. I have just got to finish wiring up the rest of the sound system over the weekend. I have been taking some pics along the way, and was hoping to start a thread in case anyone was interested. So, in answer to your questions (I think?) - it is pretty straight forward to ditch the standard CD Radio and replace with something better. Whether you decide on single din and some handy fibre glass skills, or double din (TNS or other) and more financial outlay, is the real question I suppose? I guess it could come down to preference, as well. I really like the look of the single din approach, and it offers a tidy solution, especially if you are more focussed on music. I WAS tempted... However, when I bought the IQ, I was looking to buy one with the sat nav anyway - unfortunately, the right one just didn't appear at the time, and with my eventual purchase being a CVT IQ3 with only 1500 miles, 1 owner, and mint, I couldn't refuse. So for the upgrade, I've gone with buying a few bits at a time and had to be maddeningly patient!! Without checking, I not sure exactly what I've spent - I think it's about £260'ish on parts, and a 'haggled' £185 for the Android headunit. Certainly not cheap, I know. But I've always enjoyed upgrading sound systems anyway, and like to keep things as OEM as possible - stealth, if you like. It's looking really promising so far, and seems to work well. The only thing I need to locate now is the wiring loom attachment to enable the steering wheel controls (at a sensible price, anyway). I have some replacement speakers, amps, and sub, along with a load of closed cell foam for sound proofing - but that is for another thread, I hope!?! Hope this helps. Paul
  14. 3 likes
    Hi I suggest you have a full geometry check done sounds like something bent has the car been in a shunt in the past do a quick measurement of the wheel gap in the arches front and back . Also the geometry check alignment will show the issue ,sounds like excessive negative camber if I remember the right terms , I'm sure some will google it as advise . Good luck
  15. 3 likes
    That's because no one who has viewed this thread can help you. Hopefully advice will come in time.
  16. 3 likes
  17. 3 likes
    Only the diesels from the 2015 facelift >. & obviously diesels are going out of fashion with the government policy section - reportedly looking at additional taxation on diesel fuel atm. That plus DPFs etc. is already affecting sales of diesels in the UK.
  18. 3 likes
    Update. I took it in to a different garage, and they inspected it immediately. They found the caliper okay, but the pad had worn into a wedge shape which locked up against the disk. When the caliper released, the pad couldn't shift. They changed the pads on both rear wheels and charged me sixty quid. Drives like a dream now that the wheel is free to move.
  19. 3 likes
    I was doing a service on my iQ3 a few weeks ago and while I was in there I noticed the drive belt to the alternator looked a bit worse for wear. I spoke to my local main dealer and got both the air conditioning compressor drive belt and the alternator drive belt for only £30 and last weekend I had a go at fitting them. Not a difficult job really, jack the car up, remove the right hand wheel, remove the plastic panel from the back of the wheel arch and work from there. Once the belts are off remember to clean the pulleys and make sure they are not damaged. The damage to the belt was interesting though. The air con belt was fine really but as it has to be removed before the alternator belt can be removed it made sense to just change them both. What had caused the problems with the alternator belt was small stones in the pulley grooves and embedded in the belt itself. The belts are very low on the engine and sit just a few inches behind the front wheel so I guess some debris getting into the belt isn't a surprise but it's well worth opening the bonnet occasionally and taking a glance at them to see what they look like. A stone stuck in the belt can be clearly seen in one of the photos below and a hole right through the belt made by a stone can be seen in another image. The part numbers on the bags are for my iQ3 but there is a different belts for different models so check with the dealer first if you plan to order some. Craig.
  20. 2 likes
    I have been running a hybrid tourer from new as a taxi for the last two years, covering about 30,000 miles a year. Other than the costs of main dealer servicing the only other expense has been tyres,one front set of brake pads,wiper blades and the odd bulb here and there. I expect to keep the car for at least 10 years and 300k+. Most of my driving is stop start on level roads at less than 30 mph with the occasional long motorway run, which returns an average of 59 mpg (between 56-62mpg according to the trip computer which I find fairly accurate). Should I venture onto the motorway this drops to about 55 mpg at a steady 70 mph. What I found kills the mpg other than the motorway driving is going up a long hill ( particularly if you have to do a hill start with four passengers on board) or accelerating away from traffic lights, so if you live in a hilly area the MPG won't be as good. Where I really make up the mpg is on a long straight road at 40 mph with no stops where I can cover about 3/4 of a mile on battery alone if it's fully charged. Short runs on a cold engine also aren't good for MPG as the engine will run constantly until it reaches operating temperature, not a problem for me as once the car is started it remains switched on for the whole of my shift, even if I'm sat at the side of the road waiting for my next job which may be five minutes or it could be 45 minutes. As long as there's enough charge in the battery and I stick it in EV mode the engine won't start during this time, really good in winter when the non hybrid drivers turn their engines off between jobs and I can sit there not using any fuel but still get the benefit of heat from the ventilation system ! To give a rough comparison my previous car was a Ford Mondeo TDCI which returned 39 mpg on a like-for-like basis, but being a taxi a lot of time is spent sat outside houses waiting for passengers with the engine idling, a big saving for me is not burning fuel with the engine idling outside houses or at traffic lights. The only niggle I have with the car is the rearview mirror makes cars behind appear a lot closer than they really are, for the first few weeks I thought everyone was tailgating me ! I absolutely love the car, customers love the car and all the other taxi drivers that have bought one (they're becoming very popular round here as taxis) love them and I'm happy to report that none of them have had any problems with the vehicles, not even minor ones.
  21. 2 likes
    There are some people who never check their cars, between servicing, or even never do any servicing. I have a neighbour and he would ask me what was wrong with the car when i was checking the oil and other fluids, or doing a service like an oil change. He would say I don't need to do anything unless something comes up. I don't know if he was joking or not. Last year, his Vauxhall Meriva had a loud noise, and they seem to ignore it. Then one day on a long journey the engine blew resulting a hole in the block! They had to be towed home. They bought a Nissan Qashqai 61 plate with 1.6 petrol engine. A couple of days ago, I saw my neighbour with the bonnet up . So I went to ask him what he was doing. He told me the low oil light has come on, so he was going to top it up, using the full litre of oil he had with him. He also stated that is what the breakdown man did, when it happened before. I said check the level on the dipstick to see what the level is, but wait for the engine to cool to get a more accurate reading. He said it was cool enough and poured the complete bottle, as the breakdown man did before! Now those who are aware of the 1.8 1ZZ oil burning issue, this is now something of the past. It seems other manufacturers are having similar high oil usage on newer engines. The other point is that my neighbour is reacting to a warning light and not being proactive with the checks. This light is saving his car of ending up like the Meriva. For me the joke is on him if he has bought a problem car.
  22. 2 likes
    I sure people will have discussed or experienced a misfire with a prius or auris hybrid before now....possibly becoming a loud knocking, poor starting of the ICE or a fault light on the dash. So I`d like to share with you guys what I found. I first noticed the ICE make a sort of !Removed! possibly down the air intake, along with a little stutter in the power, it sounded to come from the front drivers side corner where the air intake is, but I was driving so cant say for certain. So I ordered some new spark plugs...my logic as a good place to start. I removed the engine cover, un-pluged the coils from the loom, removed the bolts holding the coils in place, and started removing the coils....very little room though. But what I found was number 1 coil was wet and rusty, the other 3 looked perfect. After searching through old posts on here I saw that several people had reported misfires, mostly on number 1 cylinder but obviously not all. The water drips onto coil 1 from a drain hole in the plastic panel in front of the wipers, drops onto the engine cover, then runs backwards onto number 1 coil. Resulting in a misfire over time. If the engine cover extended back over the coils to keep then fully dry they`d probably last forever. I hope this is helpful to others with the same or similar problem. I`ve ordered a new coil, and I`m going to extend the engine cover to keep the water off.
  23. 2 likes
  24. 2 likes
    I was having the same issues and it turned out to be the switch, Bought a new switch a few weeks back for £25 and fitted. All starting issues stopped. Took the old switch apart, I do mean apart to bits. Cleaned it up, removed the old grease I found in there and sprayed with switch cleaner and tested that switch back in the car. Fired up with out any hassle. For the amount of work required it is not in your interests to take the car to a dealer, will cost an arm and a leg. Just a few screws and a small amount of time. Anyone with this issue in my home town can come and see me
  25. 2 likes
    Many thanks to Jez,Anthony and Ian for your tips, I will get onto Mr Google and let you know how I get on. Most grateful your your input.
  26. 2 likes
    I was in the same position as you a couple of years ago, I wanted to try hybrid motoring, mainly for fuel economy reasons. I started looking for a Prius but found anything worth looking at was above my price range and I didn`t want to spend £12k on a hybrid if I didn`t like driving it in long term ownership. But while looking I saw that the Auris was available as a hybrid too....and I after a test drive I bought a Auris hsd T-Spirit for about 2/3 the price of a Prius. The running gear and technology is the same, Auris is slightly smaller, and uses a wee bit more fuel due to aerodynamics , but still very good....looks like a regular hatch back and has its hand brake where it should be, not by your left foot as in the prius. The auris is available as a estate if you need a big boot too. So the Auris is well worth considering in my view.
  27. 2 likes
    I'm really sorry to hear your problems, but I've had the alternator go on mine & the symptoms sound the same. Also the cost of replacement was similar. It could be charged but did only last fow 10 minutes or so. I hope you can find someone to replace it for you over the Bank Holiday.
  28. 2 likes
    Hi David, I have one of these in my Aygo Fire: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tailor-Made-Armster-Standard-Armrest-to-Fit-Toyota-Aygo-2005-to-2014-/192034360456?fits=Car+Make%3AToyota|Model%3AAygo&hash=item2cb623cc88:g:ndYAAOSwOgdYyqcq It was from "Mick's Garage" and was an easy, 5 minute fit...Three holes drilled into the rear cup holder, behind the hand brake, screw it in and you're done. It comes from Ireland and takes about three to four days to arrive but once it's fitted, it looks like it has always been there. The good thing about mine is that I can tilit it back, into an upright position, to drive around town, in traffic, where I might need my handbrake more but on a run, it's great. I'm really glad that I got one as it gives another covered "Cubby Hole" (I also have the glove box door/flap fitted) and to be honest, I would recommend it. I hope that helps.
  29. 2 likes
    Apologies. The inner plastic tube needs to be tightened to 0.8nm (7 pounds per square INCH, not foot.) It is 0.6lbft. Cant seem to edit previous posts... Regards.
  30. 2 likes
    By the look of the second image, you also have some stick on weights on the inside of the rim. Could use an adhesive remover and blade to remove those. After the refurbishment, get the wheels re-balanced.
  31. 2 likes
    When new tyres are fitted, the wheels need to be balanced. The images are weights used to balance the wheels. Removing them can cause vibration, which may increase with speed, and premature tyre wear.
  32. 2 likes
    I'm glad that I have upped your confidence :P I am after the same thing haha I want somebody to have 250k+ please????????????????? I have a Eurotrip planned this year down to Bosnia, Montenegro and Serbia and back up again I did it last year and it was 4000miles in 2 weeks and the little noddy car held out perfectly. Went through the Swiss mountains, to the castle at the top of the hill in San Marino, then into the Bosnian hills towards Mostar and down towards Budva in Montenegro. 13-17% incline hills in places :P Hoping I don't kill it this time
  33. 2 likes
    Without a leak test it's impossible to know for sure why the refrigerant leaked, but it's likely to be slow leak past the seals. A main stealer will check for leaks, but there are other places to go, if you do though, I suggest you website that they aren't just going to recharge the system without doing a leak test to make sure it's not all just going to hiss out again.... I have my own gauges and sniffer because I got sick of being rinsed by ac specialists when I lived state side. Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
  34. 2 likes
    My OH once owned a diesel Citroen C4, in which she did regular short journeys in traffic. It was quite a frugal car if driven lightly, and I sometimes used it for work etc on open roads. I could usually get the range to read quite a bit higher after I'd driven 40 odd miles in it than before I'd started. I used to joke that she owed me a fiver for the extra range lol.
  35. 2 likes
    if the diode has failed in the alternator you can normally see the charging light glowing very dim when the ignition is off ,it is easier to see at night when its dark this will drain your battery in a relatively short space of time, if you feel this is the case then you could ask a friend to remove the alternator fuse whilst you look at the dash to see if the light goes out.
  36. 2 likes
    It counts based on your average mpg
  37. 2 likes
    There's scientific data that suggests the depletion of the ozone layer helped cool the planet down. Since it's been growing back, the temperature has started to rise. But this isn't about the environment or public health. If the government were that bothered about our health processed foods would be banned outright, along with diet drinks etc. This is a question of money. Motorists are the easy targets for them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  38. 2 likes
    Some petrol engines have had EGR's for years - eg. the IQ which came to the UK in late 2008. VAG have said they will be dropping their smaller diesel engines (including a newly designed 1.5 litre) and will be fitting gasoline particulate filters to some of their engines by the end of this year. There are suggestions that Theresa May may intervene in the taxation schemes that diesels may face. This is partly in recognition of the fact that the advice the Labour government acted upon regarding taxation based on CO2 levels, was based on vehicle manufacturers' promises to fit effective emissions controls equipment. Whatever happens, something has to be done to clean up the air of the major cities in the UK, and unfortunately diesel engines, whether they are in cars, trucks or buses, are one of the main culprits of pollution (NO2 and particulates).
  39. 2 likes
    you have to drive the petrol differently to the diesel & use the power at high revs rather than the torque at low if you want to make rapid progress. Interestingly I saw a review of the latest Skoda Octavia the other day which was very similar to what the Avensis has had over the years - efficient, unemotional/uninvolvig etc. the Avensis is like an appliance but then modern roads/traffic/speed enforcement doesn't exactly make driving enjoyable any more. I also agree with Berengaria - there are dashed few competitors for the 1.8 petrol that are naturally aspirated (so don't have potential issues down the line from the turbo). Possibly the Mazda 6 2.0. Other countries too.
  40. 2 likes
    I decided to change the transmission (PSD) oil. Our car has covered 35,000 miles. There is no service requirement for this in the Toyota schedule. The old (factory fill) oil is on the left, the new oil (Toyota WS ATF) is on the right. If it is if any use:- The transmission is rated at 3.3 litre capacity. I carefully measured how much emptied out, it was 2.95 litres, that was with the car raised at the front, or level on all wheels, no more would drain. The torque for both fill and drain bolts is 29 lb/ft. A 10mm hex driver for your socket set is fairly essential as the access is a tiny bit limited, so an Allen key probably won't work, and besides, you won't be able to torque it back up properly with an Allen key. Some of the six 10mm M6 bolts that secure the undertray were quite badly corroded, I could imagine these snapping off if you were in a rush (they fit into a steel chassis member). The fill plug is to the left of the drive shaft, the drain is underneath the drive shaft, but further under the box. In this photo, the front of the car is on the right, so the view (and access) of these plugs is from the centre of the car at the back of the engine compartment. The engine sump is in the top r/h of the picture. The drain/fill plugs release quite suddenly with a crack - watch your knuckles. Don't forget to undo the fill plug first. When refitting the undertray, it is worth noting that the clips that (on this car at least) fit to the rear of the tray (top of the picture) are 2 different sizes. The bigger clips have a grey insert, and are a b*gger to refit unless the centre pin is completely removed first, then it's effortless.
  41. 2 likes
    I haven't entertained this idea as I absolutely adore my IQ1, I think they are rare enough to enjoy the 'uniqueness' feel, they are nippy and great fun to drive. The Smart looks very very similar, but owning one of the original Smarts years ago, I find them very dated and small, not been inside a new looking one. Every other car I see are Fiat 500's and they're as common as dog s@!7, so I won't be choosing them. I don't think there is anything as quirky, attractive or modifiable as the IQ around to consider anything as a suitable replacement. I hope that fateful day is many, many years ahead. I for one am keeping my IQ and enjoying it for a VERY long time. Matt
  42. 2 likes
    Modded Hybrid from Finland:
  43. 2 likes
    It's like swings and roundabouts when using cc, if your lazy like me, then cc works well enough without knocking it off and I'm not doing bad with my mpg. Without it I can do better, but you sacrifice comfort on long journeys. Using techniques like pulse and glide will improve things. I would definitely recommend checking your tyre pressures, you don't need to loose much air to have a dent in your mpg. I have the tyre pressures set for motorway driving all the time, but still nothing can help when it comes to being in traffic that is going nowhere fast.
  44. 2 likes
    Basically something has not been put back correctly. You need to go over engine with who ever did the work, checking all the sensors, vacuum pipes and throttle body connections. Can I assume your engine is 1AZ direct injection engine, plus are you in South Africa (base on the the currency)?. If the engine is The 2 litre VVTi, the cams need to be working correctly and the timing correct. This needs an experienced mechanic to look at the engine in person.
  45. 2 likes
    noise is a very subjective thing. When I first got a Gen 1 Prius in 2002, the quietness was one of it's many endearing features, but after a while I started to think it wasn't that quiet. Then I'd go in another car, and realise it actually was very quiet - there must be some sort of ear equivalent of automatic recording level the tape recorders used to have.
  46. 2 likes
    AVENSIS RA-1 front lip the FINAL STEP
  47. 2 likes
    Hi, had exactly the same vibrations at about the same speed (and also under braking sometimes), was less noticeable when accelerating or turning - on a Ford though. Had wheels balanced and rebalanced at different place, front to back, checked shape, swapped full size spare I had onto each corner and made no difference, new brake pads/discs tried also. I'd agree that balancing or poor tyre shape are most likely but mine turned out to be suspension bushes. Was doing my head in only when they replaced the bushes did the vibration stopped. Don't ask me how it affected things/caused vibration but it 100% did and was the cause. If you've tried everything else it's worth asking someone to look at the bushes on front suspension just in case!!! Mine weren't 'dead' but were split apparently.
  48. 2 likes
    Just to confirm, your balancing can be perfect but if the tyre or wheel is oval you'll get judder.
  49. 2 likes
    Nor am i She's staying nothing to touch an iq that i can see.
  50. 2 likes
    Ensure the inside of the windscreen glass is squeaky clean. Water vapor molecules love to cling on to dirty surfaces, which is the mist you see. Put some isospropyl alcohol on a lint free cloth and gently clean the glass until it is smear free. I use contact cleaner from Halfords, as it contains isospropyl alcohol and can be used elsewhere on the car, such as cleaning electrical contacts. http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/lubricating-penetrating-oil/halfords-electrical-contact-cleaner-400ml