Hi all, the rav has developed the 2nd biggest issue over the DMF. Loss of power over 3000rpm and the mil turbo over boost. It also has the exhaust noise that has been described in the other posts. To me its the turbo blowing off the pressure as its over boosting. Its like a steam train "chuffing” away. Looking through all the posts It seems its one of those issues that a lot of people have had but no ones has come up with a definitive "its that". Some have done the scv valves, fuel filter, good thrashing down the road, turbo replacement or a combination.

This is my story so far in trying to get to the bottom of the issue. Long post but it would be nice to get together and pin down this issue for future reference.


we hadn't used the rav for a few months took it out to get ready for the mot and tax it for winter. It would not pull at all over 3000rpm and had the chuffing and went into limp home.

1 changed scv valves (ouch how much). This made it pull better up to 3000rpm and the chuffing was not as bad but it still holds back over 3000 and chuffs higher up the rev range. But it is now drivable (in fact it pulls well) if you keep it below 3000, but still has a bit of chuffing and a flat spot over 3000. Does not seem to go into limp home though.

2 changed fuel filter no effect same as above.

3 cleaned out intercooler, pipe work, inlet side of turbo and the EGR no effect. The EGR was clean and moved freely.

4 checked out the vsv and valve pipe work. Looking at the download on a previous post VSV.PDF that describes testing out the vac valve that anchorman posted from the Toyota manual. Line 4 I think is incorrect as its says check air does not flow from port E to G, I think it has too as there is no one way system fitted, so power off it flows from E to G, power on from E to atmosphere via the filter. Has anybody else checked there's ?.

5 I have looked at the actuator that controls the variable vanes on the turbo, expecting this to be stuck or tight. Now this is free and the actuator moves up/down and the linkage moves ok. Having a closer look I think it moves too freely as I would expect the vanes and the mechanizm to take a little bit of moving, maybe its not connected at the other end ?. that would account for the symptoms as described if the vanes are stuck in the full boost condition, you would get good performance up to 3000 then the extra exhaust pressure would build up as its not venting down the pipe restricting performance and eventually it would go into over boost limp home. Before tackling a turbo removal I have run it with and without the vac pipe on the vanes actuator, as in theory if the vanes are stuck or the actuator rod is broke there should be no difference in performance. But with the vac pipe off it is a lot less responsive indicating that the vanes are moving (default no vac the vanes move to lowest boost). Connect it back and it pulls a lot better at lower revs.

6 is it just choked up ?. I have trashed it within a inch of its life up and down the motorway and its made no difference. Its running very clean out the exhaust you can mot test it and there is hardly any smoke from the back. But this seems to have worked for some on previous posts.

next steps
Has anybody ever split the turbo in place ?.
I would like to see if the vane mechanism is ok for myself and it looks just as easy to split the turbine part off the exhaust body 5 bolts around the turbo then remove the actuation ring and vane assembly out of the turbo exhaust body. Rather than try and remove the manifold/exhaust connections and take the whole lot off.
has anybody got a schematic of the later variable vane turbo they can post ?. There is one on a previous post but its a waste gate type.
has anybody got a PDF of removing the turbo ?

The turbo pressure sensor, has anybody ever changed one for any reason and did it cure the issue ?.
Kingo are they cheap ?.
you need equipment that normally is not around to check if its working, so it might be easier to fit a replacement.

Anybody want to list what worked for them in solving the issue. It may be that different things can cause the same effect, at least we can get it all in one post and pin it.

Any other comments help

Thanks

Hi Webbie

I get involved with so many of these things that I can't always remember who has got what problem and whether I stuck my 2p worth in but I am just off to work and have to be brief.

Pulling the turbo apart would be the very last resort for me and only when it I think it is worth one more try or get another one.

There are no wastegated turbo's on RAVs unless someone has modified one. If you look at the turbo, the vac unit has a link to the variable nozzles, not a wastegate. The nearest thing to a wastegate is the VSV you know about as it indirectly does the same thing.

What you describe sounds like the EGR valve to me.

I can provide more info if you need me to but it will be tomorrow.

Cheers.

always wanting to be different, my RAV does have a wastegate.... but thank goodness its petrol. Did manage to mangle a turbo thru extreme heat due to the exhaust system being partly blocked. Thats another story. Good luck on finding the cause of yours.

[quote name='bothwell_buyer' post='934547' date='Oct 3 2009, 03:51 PM']always wanting to be different, my RAV does have a wastegate.... but thank goodness its petrol. Did manage to mangle a turbo thru extreme heat due to the exhaust system being partly blocked. Thats another story. Good luck on finding the cause of yours.[/quote]

Your RAV has afterburners and a drogue chute but nobody elses does!

[quote name='webbie' post='934515' date='Oct 3 2009, 01:39 PM']Hi all, the rav has developed the 2nd biggest issue over the DMF. Loss of power over 3000rpm and the mil turbo over boost. It also has the exhaust noise that has been described in the other posts. To me its the turbo blowing off the pressure as its over boosting. Its like a steam train "chuffing” away. Looking through all the posts It seems its one of those issues that a lot of people have had but no ones has come up with a definitive "its that". Some have done the scv valves, fuel filter, good thrashing down the road, turbo replacement or a combination.

This is my story so far in trying to get to the bottom of the issue. Long post but it would be nice to get together and pin down this issue for future reference.


we hadn't used the rav for a few months took it out to get ready for the mot and tax it for winter. It would not pull at all over 3000rpm and had the chuffing and went into limp home.

1 changed scv valves (ouch how much). This made it pull better up to 3000rpm and the chuffing was not as bad but it still holds back over 3000 and chuffs higher up the rev range. But it is now drivable (in fact it pulls well) if you keep it below 3000, but still has a bit of chuffing and a flat spot over 3000. Does not seem to go into limp home though.

2 changed fuel filter no effect same as above.

3 cleaned out intercooler, pipe work, inlet side of turbo and the EGR no effect. The EGR was clean and moved freely.

4 checked out the vsv and valve pipe work. Looking at the download on a previous post VSV.PDF that describes testing out the vac valve that anchorman posted from the Toyota manual. Line 4 I think is incorrect as its says check air does not flow from port E to G, I think it has too as there is no one way system fitted, so power off it flows from E to G, power on from E to atmosphere via the filter. Has anybody else checked there's ?.

5 I have looked at the actuator that controls the variable vanes on the turbo, expecting this to be stuck or tight. Now this is free and the actuator moves up/down and the linkage moves ok. Having a closer look I think it moves too freely as I would expect the vanes and the mechanizm to take a little bit of moving, maybe its not connected at the other end ?. that would account for the symptoms as described if the vanes are stuck in the full boost condition, you would get good performance up to 3000 then the extra exhaust pressure would build up as its not venting down the pipe restricting performance and eventually it would go into over boost limp home. Before tackling a turbo removal I have run it with and without the vac pipe on the vanes actuator, as in theory if the vanes are stuck or the actuator rod is broke there should be no difference in performance. But with the vac pipe off it is a lot less responsive indicating that the vanes are moving (default no vac the vanes move to lowest boost). Connect it back and it pulls a lot better at lower revs.

6 is it just choked up ?. I have trashed it within a inch of its life up and down the motorway and its made no difference. Its running very clean out the exhaust you can mot test it and there is hardly any smoke from the back. But this seems to have worked for some on previous posts.

next steps
Has anybody ever split the turbo in place ?.
I would like to see if the vane mechanism is ok for myself and it looks just as easy to split the turbine part off the exhaust body 5 bolts around the turbo then remove the actuation ring and vane assembly out of the turbo exhaust body. Rather than try and remove the manifold/exhaust connections and take the whole lot off.
has anybody got a schematic of the later variable vane turbo they can post ?. There is one on a previous post but its a waste gate type.
has anybody got a PDF of removing the turbo ?

The turbo pressure sensor, has anybody ever changed one for any reason and did it cure the issue ?.
Kingo are they cheap ?.
you need equipment that normally is not around to check if its working, so it might be easier to fit a replacement.

Anybody want to list what worked for them in solving the issue. It may be that different things can cause the same effect, at least we can get it all in one post and pin it.

Any other comments help

Thanks[/quote]

hello
It is not good for the car to be stored without drive.. I deem this has resulted a chain of problems.
Your problem is not connected with turbo ,but somethis is stuck now giving no power above 3000 rpm.
You did not state how the engine is started? I am seriously think that after an idle time the HP delivery valve could be leak giving no sufficient pressure arter pump delivery stroke or injection timing must be re-checked.
CHeers/Igor

[quote name='anchorman' post='934729' date='Oct 3 2009, 11:59 PM'][quote name='bothwell_buyer' post='934547' date='Oct 3 2009, 03:51 PM']always wanting to be different, my RAV does have a wastegate.... but thank goodness its petrol. Did manage to mangle a turbo thru extreme heat due to the exhaust system being partly blocked. Thats another story. Good luck on finding the cause of yours.[/quote]

Your RAV has afterburners and a drogue chute but nobody elses does!
[/quote]
didn't want to rub it in, but the engines now running at optimum between 4000 and 7000RPM - bit far from a diesel turbo RAV? 13.4secs on the 1/4 mile today -best time yet. And no following wind, nor did I need the chute!

[quote name='bothwell_buyer' post='934880' date='Oct 4 2009, 06:29 PM']13.4secs on the 1/4 mile today -best time yet. And no following wind, nor did I need the chute![/quote]

I needed a "chute" to slow my underpants down when he gave me a blast in his RAV Inter Continental balistic missile last year

Kingo

Hi,

Did you get your chuffing sorted, was it the EGR valve?