had a small ( ) problem with my spotlight wiring a couple of weeks ago and since then the car has been a bit hesitant when I release the throttle - kind of like if the handbrake is left on and battery more of a problem then previously (never been that good in fact)

Thursday I went to go out and battery was flat - and I did not leave any lights or anything on. Neighbour jump started the car and I went out.

Nipped out Friday to shops - fine.

I tried to use the car yesterday and battery totally flat again.

Now I am wondering if the cold weather has now just done for the battery and it has just plain had it? Or could the charging circuit have an issue as well? When it is jump started, the car starts no problem at all but seems that any boost the battery gets disappears within a couple of days. 

the RAC test shows the battery as faulty - BUT ..... when the RAC test has done this before, the Toyota test has passed  - if the Toyota test shows it as a fail, will it be covered by the 3 year warranty as the battery is only 2 1/2 years old BUT was replaced under warranty when the original was 18 months old (so will replacement have full 3 years or just the remaining 18 months?)

If I need to get a new battery - which is most likely I think - anyone know of a higher capacity unit that will fit in the battery bay? have been unable to track anything down myself at all other then standard 55Ah unit which seems underspeced for a 2000cc engine TBH.

Cheers,

H.

Hoovie

The definitive test for the battery is a drop test but it needs to be done after the battery has been trickle charged for at least 12 hours - preferably 24. Can you charge it then go to somebody with a drop tester? Any of the tyre and exhaust centres usually have them and test for free.

I was very unimpressed with the life of the standard Toyota battery.
It was approx 3 years before it started playing up and I could not start the car after a few days on non use.
When I last investigated a higher capacity battery that would fit, I think I found AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) that would fit but it was unbelievably expensive.
I figured it would be better to get a cheap "Banner Starting Bull" at trade prices locally and replace it as required.

Ian

Hi,

I read about the AGM batteries - too pricey for my wallet!

Need to get the car jump started (AGAIN!) in about an hour so I can drive to Toyota dealer to investigate Engine Error code P0100 (air intake error or somesuch) which has come up a week or so after it was getting lumpy to drive.

And this would be about 2-3 weeks after I had all 4 brake discs replaced (under warranty)


Starting to get a little annoyed with my RAV in the last few weeks

Hi Hoovie, did a quick search, the diesel 4.2 uses a 60amp battery its the same LxW but slightly taller 230x170x225 so you would have to check if it would fit priced at £57 approx, if i can find the site again i will post a link, If you need to buy one i know a few battery places where i should get a discount, let me know Stew
apologies Hoovie, petrol234Lx128wx220h cranking 330
diesel230Lx170wx220h so its wider cranking525
link http://performancebatteries.co.uk/find_bat...x4#battery_info

When you had the problem with the fog lights it sounds like they had shorted to earth. This would have drawn a high current through the battery and may have buckled the plates hence it will no longer hold a sufficient charge. Or there may be damage to the alternator regulator (diodes) which is now giving a lower charge to the battery.
If you have a digital meter,
Disconnect the –ve battery terminal, and connect meter between –ve of battery and cable. Reading on meter will show 0.3-0.6amp. If it’s more then there is something causing the battery to drain, either a short or alternator fault, thats assuming nothing else is switched on in the car?
If the amps are ok check the battery voltage, it should be 12.5-13V. If less, trickle charge the battery over 12hrs and reconnect it.
Start the car and take the revs to 2000-2500rpm. Check the voltage should be 13.5-14.4. Put some load on the alternator by putting on lights, heater blower etc. Voltage should stay pretty static and drop very little. If it drops below 14V I would say you have a problem with the regulator on the alternator. If it stays above 14v the alternator/regulator is working ok and it points to your battery not being able to hold a charge...

The BOSCH SILVER is a good battery, used to be a 3yr warranty, now 5yr. Halfords stock them but a wee bit on the dear side. Just rake for a supplier online or try eBay

thanks for info chaps.
Oilkid - I have a scangauge EOBD reader and I have set that to read the voltage and when the car has been running, the voltage tends to be 14.1V so I would say your diagnosis seems likely. The way the cables for glowing red, it sure drew some current!!!

Stew - I nipped into a 4x4 Diesel specialist here and asked them if they could find me a bigger battery to suit and they took some dimensions, then came back with a bit of a shake of the head.

I ended up getting a standard Toyota replacement one as the easy option. £36 + VAT didn't seem to bad. I was going in anyway to get them to check the bad performance (and subsequent P0100 error code) and - these things always working out this way - driving to the dealer, the car drove like it used to and no problems could be found!
I also asked them to check the charging circuitry for the battery to make sure - and seemed ok, which is a relief.

Glad you seem to have it sorted...Doesn't your scangauge give error codes + charging status? Stew

initially I got no codes and it was only about a week later got the error code. The garage was a little surprised to be quoted a code over the phone and were actually very helpful advising me what to look for.


Charging status? nearest I know of is the voltage reading. no ammeter type reading available that I know of but could be very useful!