Bacon
February 20, 2008, 3:11 pm
Well, today I finally booked in our Previa to have a new turbo fitted next week. We had this diagnosed by the main dealer almost a year ago when we were getting the dreaded engine management light on and a sudden drop in engine performance. Stopping the car and restarting the engine would clear it. We have managed to get another year out of it by careful use of the throttle and to be honest, it appears to run perfectly during the summer months and them show it's ugly head again during winter months. The fault codes always say 'stuck turbo' . When it fails, it wouldn't pull the skin off a cold plate of porridge
The car was 4 years old when first diagnosed with 27k miles on it. A year later we are at 34K miles. Toyota offered us a 1/3 off the price of the Turbo when it first occered and will still honour this one year later. Dealer is helping with the labour cost but I must say I am not a happy bunny as they say.

I get the impression that failing turbo's are getting quite common as the dealer has done a few including RAV4's? The good thing is he won't be learning on my car.
I'm not sure that I really have a point here other than being able to share this with other Previa owners or perhaps invite some comment from a Toyota Tech who appear to frequent this forum.
Regards
Alex
adrian_s
March 4, 2008, 1:29 pm
[quote name='Bacon' post='724194' date='Feb 20 2008, 03:11 PM']Well, today I finally booked in our Previa to have a new turbo fitted next week. We had this diagnosed by the main dealer almost a year ago when we were getting the dreaded engine management light on and a sudden drop in engine performance. Stopping the car and restarting the engine would clear it. We have managed to get another year out of it by careful use of the throttle and to be honest, it appears to run perfectly during the summer months and them show it's ugly head again during winter months. The fault codes always say 'stuck turbo' . When it fails, it wouldn't pull the skin off a cold plate of porridge
The car was 4 years old when first diagnosed with 27k miles on it. A year later we are at 34K miles. Toyota offered us a 1/3 off the price of the Turbo when it first occered and will still honour this one year later. Dealer is helping with the labour cost but I must say I am not a happy bunny as they say.

I get the impression that failing turbo's are getting quite common as the dealer has done a few including RAV4's? The good thing is he won't be learning on my car.
I'm not sure that I really have a point here other than being able to share this with other Previa owners or perhaps invite some comment from a Toyota Tech who appear to frequent this forum.
Regards
Alex[/quote]
Just joined this forum as I've found a few stories here that unfortunately sound all too familiar.
I too have had the same experience as above...last summer the car lost power on holiday in Cornwall and the engine light came on. The RAC guy said the code pointed at a fuel injection problem, suggested it was possibly caused by bad fuel/muck in the tank and maybe we should try some fuel cleaner. We took it to the Toyota dealer in Newquay who confirmed the story. They quoted in excess of £2000 to replace the fuel injection unit, so up until recently we have been regularly adding additive to the fuel. The problem has been intermittent and we lived with it until we had to use the car for a trip to France so finally bit the bullet and took it to our local dealer (Basingstoke) in January. They promptly informed us that the problem was not the fuel injection unit, but that we needed a new turbo unit! I gave the history of the problem, asked 'are you sure?' more than once before parting with £2000 to fix.
4 weeks later and guess what? The problem has recurred again. I am angry that I have spent £2000 on something that did not fix the problem, and I'm highly suspicious that the problem was actually something that would cost a lot less to fix (sensors?)
Oh, and this is not a knackered old car - when the problem first happened the car was just out of warranty and on 43K.
And I thought Toyota's were supposed to be reliable

This is the first time I have bought a brand new car, I've spent double on it than I've spent on any other car, and it's causing me much more grief than any other car I've had. It's going back to the garage tomorrow - it will be very interesting to see what they say.
Bacon
March 4, 2008, 8:12 pm
[quote name='adrian_s' post='728484' date='Mar 4 2008, 01:29 PM'][quote name='Bacon' post='724194' date='Feb 20 2008, 03:11 PM']Well, today I finally booked in our Previa to have a new turbo fitted next week. We had this diagnosed by the main dealer almost a year ago when we were getting the dreaded engine management light on and a sudden drop in engine performance. Stopping the car and restarting the engine would clear it. We have managed to get another year out of it by careful use of the throttle and to be honest, it appears to run perfectly during the summer months and them show it's ugly head again during winter months. The fault codes always say 'stuck turbo' . When it fails, it wouldn't pull the skin off a cold plate of porridge
The car was 4 years old when first diagnosed with 27k miles on it. A year later we are at 34K miles. Toyota offered us a 1/3 off the price of the Turbo when it first occered and will still honour this one year later. Dealer is helping with the labour cost but I must say I am not a happy bunny as they say.

I get the impression that failing turbo's are getting quite common as the dealer has done a few including RAV4's? The good thing is he won't be learning on my car.
I'm not sure that I really have a point here other than being able to share this with other Previa owners or perhaps invite some comment from a Toyota Tech who appear to frequent this forum.
Regards
Alex[/quote]
Just joined this forum as I've found a few stories here that unfortunately sound all too familiar.
I too have had the same experience as above...last summer the car lost power on holiday in Cornwall and the engine light came on. The RAC guy said the code pointed at a fuel injection problem, suggested it was possibly caused by bad fuel/muck in the tank and maybe we should try some fuel cleaner. We took it to the Toyota dealer in Newquay who confirmed the story. They quoted in excess of £2000 to replace the fuel injection unit, so up until recently we have been regularly adding additive to the fuel. The problem has been intermittent and we lived with it until we had to use the car for a trip to France so finally bit the bullet and took it to our local dealer (Basingstoke) in January. They promptly informed us that the problem was not the fuel injection unit, but that we needed a new turbo unit! I gave the history of the problem, asked 'are you sure?' more than once before parting with £2000 to fix.
4 weeks later and guess what? The problem has recurred again. I am angry that I have spent £2000 on something that did not fix the problem, and I'm highly suspicious that the problem was actually something that would cost a lot less to fix (sensors?)
Oh, and this is not a knackered old car - when the problem first happened the car was just out of warranty and on 43K.
And I thought Toyota's were supposed to be reliable

This is the first time I have bought a brand new car, I've spent double on it than I've spent on any other car, and it's causing me much more grief than any other car I've had. It's going back to the garage tomorrow - it will be very interesting to see what they say.
[/quote]
adrian_s
March 4, 2008, 8:27 pm
Update - I've got a fault code tonight....
P0627 Fuel Pump Control Circ A / Open
So pretty much what I was told back in the Summer, and same symptoms.
Back to the dealer tomorrow!
Bacon
March 5, 2008, 10:45 am
Sorry to hear of your troubles. I now have a new turbo fitted to my Previa and it's good to have the old girl back to her old self again.
The dealer collected my car about 1:30 in the afternoon and left me with a little 1.0 T2 Yaris which was actually great fun to drive. A call from the dealer the following afternoon told me my car was ready and they would be delivering it back to me in the half hour. Car came back very clean inside and out and the old turbo was sitting in the footwell as requested.
I have examined this old unit but I must say that you could put what I know about turbo's on a postage stamp

Anyway, from what I can see, the bearings appear to have slight lift in them which is probably normal and the rotors spin freely. The wastegate however appears to be siezed as I can get no movement from this at all. I may get this unit refurbished when I am faced with this again in the future.
Anyone know what movement I should be seeing if any while manually operating the wastegate valve rod while turbo is sitting on my bench?
Pics available.
Robert P
March 7, 2008, 8:39 am
[quote name='Bacon' post='724194' date='Feb 20 2008, 03:11 PM']Well, today I finally booked in our Previa to have a new turbo fitted next week. We had this diagnosed by the main dealer almost a year ago when we were getting the dreaded engine management light on and a sudden drop in engine performance. Stopping the car and restarting the engine would clear it. We have managed to get another year out of it by careful use of the throttle and to be honest, it appears to run perfectly during the summer months and them show it's ugly head again during winter months. The fault codes always say 'stuck turbo' . When it fails, it wouldn't pull the skin off a cold plate of porridge
The car was 4 years old when first diagnosed with 27k miles on it. A year later we are at 34K miles. Toyota offered us a 1/3 off the price of the Turbo when it first occered and will still honour this one year later. Dealer is helping with the labour cost but I must say I am not a happy bunny as they say.

I get the impression that failing turbo's are getting quite common as the dealer has done a few including RAV4's? The good thing is he won't be learning on my car.
I'm not sure that I really have a point here other than being able to share this with other Previa owners or perhaps invite some comment from a Toyota Tech who appear to frequent this forum.
Regards
Alex[/quote]
rhjoiner
March 7, 2008, 11:31 pm
[quote name='Bacon' post='724194' date='Feb 20 2008, 03:11 PM']Well, today I finally booked in our Previa to have a new turbo fitted next week. We had this diagnosed by the main dealer almost a year ago when we were getting the dreaded engine management light on and a sudden drop in engine performance. Stopping the car and restarting the engine would clear it. We have managed to get another year out of it by careful use of the throttle and to be honest, it appears to run perfectly during the summer months and them show it's ugly head again during winter months. The fault codes always say 'stuck turbo' . When it fails, it wouldn't pull the skin off a cold plate of porridge
The car was 4 years old when first diagnosed with 27k miles on it. A year later we are at 34K miles. Toyota offered us a 1/3 off the price of the Turbo when it first occered and will still honour this one year later. Dealer is helping with the labour cost but I must say I am not a happy bunny as they say.

I get the impression that failing turbo's are getting quite common as the dealer has done a few including RAV4's? The good thing is he won't be learning on my car.
I'm not sure that I really have a point here other than being able to share this with other Previa owners or perhaps invite some comment from a Toyota Tech who appear to frequent this forum.
Regards
Alex[/quote]
Hi all,
my name is Ronnie I have a Previa D4D 2003 it has done just over 57,000 miles. I too like "Bacon" am experiancing problems which have been diagnosed by the main Toyota dealer as Turbo problems. I cant remember the actual fault code they said came up but it was diagnosed as a faulty Turbo.
Prior to taking it to the dealers I too had the problems of not running particularly well (but driveable) and then on two or three occasions the engine management light would come on. It would then go into limp mode (still running but only able to go very slowly). On stoping and turning the ignition off and then re-starting the engine management light would go out and it would run as normal (still not particularly well but drivable) This had happened of a period of about 4 weeks before I took it to the dealers for a diagnostic check.
The dealers told me it would need a new Turbo fitting and would cost around £1600-£1700 plus Vat. I nearly fell throught the floor! I did a bit of ringing around and found a company local to me who called themselves Turbo Clinic UK Ltd. I spoke to them and told them my problem. They told me it was a comon problem and the would be able to repair the Turbo if I could get it removed. I good friend of mine who is a mechanic who also owed me a favour took the turbo off for me. Turbo Clinic UK Ltd went to his place of work collected the Turbo and took it away to repair it. I was quoted £175.00 + vat for the repair, to which I agreed. They repaired it and delivered it back to my mechanic, who re-fited it.
It has lasted about 4-5 weeks and is now back to how it was before. Not running particularly well (but drivable) and the managment light came on twice on one journey this week. Again going into limp mode and having to re-start it.
The best part of £2000 is an extreamly expensive repair, and more than I can realy afford, does anyone know of any other solution? I have just spent a small fortune having a new timming belt and service as it is coming up to the 60,000 miles recomended belt change.
Thanks for any help
Ronnie
adrian_s
March 9, 2008, 6:52 pm
After lurking around these forums and elsewhere I am convinced that a lot of turbos are being replaced unnecessarily. It appears that once they pick up fault code p1521 it's assumed that the turbo is the problem, whether it is or not. The problem is proving it of course.
propnut
March 11, 2008, 4:28 pm
I have been watching this thread with interest as I am considering replacing my series 1 Previa with a diesel series 2. I am interested in where you are getting these codes from as I have access to the actual Toyota Technical Information Sheets for this car and these codes bear no correlation to what is shown. It sounds like these codes are from after market OBD scanners.
Has anyone tried to actually read the actual codes off their ECU using the MIL light.
From reading this and the thread regarding the Petrol series 2 it sounds like the new shape is more troublesome than the old shape.
Bacon
March 12, 2008, 2:32 pm
[quote name='propnut' post='730864' date='Mar 11 2008, 04:28 PM']I have been watching this thread with interest as I am considering replacing my series 1 Previa with a diesel series 2. I am interested in where you are getting these codes from as I have access to the actual Toyota Technical Information Sheets for this car and these codes bear no correlation to what is shown. It sounds like these codes are from after market OBD scanners.
Has anyone tried to actually read the actual codes off their ECU using the MIL light.
From reading this and the thread regarding the Petrol series 2 it sounds like the new shape is more troublesome than the old shape.[/quote]
I haven't seen what the codes were as the dealer told me the codes they pulled off indicated it was a stuck turbo. Giving me the codes wouldn't have meant a thing to me. I can't understand why it was ok during the summer months and went bad again during winter. Anyway I have had the turbo replaced and the car pulls great now but if I blip the throttle at rest, I now get black smoke which I wasn't getting before. Dealer can't understand why but wants the car back to check emissions etc. It passed it's MOT a couple of weeks before the turbo change.
I would be interested on how you pull the codes from the ECU using the MIL. If I got anything, I hopefully could ask you what they mean?
As far as being troublesome, Alloys replaced under warranty and going bad again. Leaking oil pan twice, Turbo replaced at 35K and I have been asked to keep an eye on the water pump as there is pink coolant seeping from it. I have had many new cars in my life (company cars and mobility cars) This Previa is used less but I am very disapointed in the failures. I won't make this mistake again.
propnut
March 12, 2008, 8:54 pm
I hear your frustration and it certainly sounds like the series 1 Previa's are head and shoulders above the series 2 in terms of reliability with mileages of well over 200K having been achieved on a great many units. (NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITN THE IMPORTED ESTIMA's, whilst these look the same have they have a diesel engine with a major issue with cracked cylinder heads)
The codes I am referring to are the PO627 and P1521 quoted by adrian_s neither of which appear in the workshop manual ???.
Send me a PM with your personal email address and I will send you copies of the relevant pages. I can't post them here in case I get the forum in trouble for posting copyright material. This will be for the 1CD-FTV engine which is the code for the diesel engine fitted to your car.
Turbo's are not that complex, you basically have two fans/impellers, one on either side of a shaft. One is driven by exhaust gases and therefore subject to high heat and the other is the compressor vane which forces air into the combustion chamber. Before the air reaches the combustion chamber however it is passed through an intercooler, as cool air is denser it means you get a greater concentration of oxygen in the air delivered from the output of the intercooler. On the exhaust side of the turbo you have a wastegate which is effectively a valve operated by the wastegate actuator and the purpose of this is to control the amount of boost by diverting exhaust gases away from the impeller when boost reaches a certain level e.g. 9psi. Between the vanes you have a lubrication system that ensures the high spinning bearings are kept lubed. Now if the seal/bearing on the exhaust side wear, which is most common due to the heat this oil finds its way into the exhaust system and hey presto you have smoke. However oil smoke is typically blue, black smoke could indicate an injector problem or an air intake blockage somewhere.
It is important to note that due to the extreme high rpm's found in turbos that proper operation is vital .
1. When you start the car let it warm up for a bit to allow oil to lubricate the spinning parts properley before you give it boot
2. Before you switch off the car let it idle for a bit first again to give the bearings and shaft a good dose of oil before you switch off so at the next start it does not start dry.
If you can get the turbo off you can inspect the bearing and housings for wear. Pull and push the shaft and check for excessive movement both longitudinally and vertically. Also check for signs of oil on either side of the vanes which will indicate a leaking seal. Side of housing wear will also indicate excessive shaft movement.
Note again I haven't worked on these specific cars but all turbos work on the same principals.
Bacon
March 13, 2008, 9:51 am
[quote name='propnut' post='731420' date='Mar 12 2008, 08:54 PM']If you can get the turbo off you can inspect the bearing and housings for wear. Pull and push the shaft and check for excessive movement both longitudinally and vertically. Also check for signs of oil on either side of the vanes which will indicate a leaking seal. Side of housing wear will also indicate excessive shaft movement.
Note again I haven't worked on these specific cars but all turbos work on the same principals.[/quote]
Thanks for the comprehensive reply and advice.
I have my old turbo sitting on my bench. There is slight lift on the bearings but no end to end movement that I can feel. The rotors turn easily by hand. No sign of oil leaks can be seen either. What I do see, and it doesn't feel right to me is that I can't get any movement on the wastegate . I am assuming the pushrod should move the bellcrank which in turn moves the internal component in the turbo exhaust side i.e. the wastegate. Wouldn't it be nice to know that this is the fault

I'm thinking that I will put this turbo away safely until next time and then get it refurbished. The labour hours involved in removing /replacing one of these is scary.
Thanks again for your help
Shabs
March 21, 2008, 12:28 am
Hi
I own a 2002 diesel model and also have issues with the turbo and was hoping that someone can help.
The main issue is that the engine hesitates occasionally before giving additional power. This happens when the turbo kicks in at about 1800rpm+ and mainly when the engine is not up to full working temperature or the turbo is first used. On the motorway it also occasionally does not give full power. Do I also need a new turbo?
I can see no additional smoke from the exhaust and once it has been running for a little while the problem is less noticeable or the turbo runs without fault.
It seems to me that it is not getting enough fuel or air? My garage has put the car on its diagnostic machine and cannot find a fault. They have suggested a new turbo is needed because the air flow meter (may have been sensor) has already been changed.
The engine management light also comes on (very occasionally) and puts the car in limp home mode but turning the car on and off has cured this.
Is it worth getting the turbo reconditioned? Or possibly an alternative supplier of a new turbo?
I also need a new CV joint but cannot find a supplier other than the main dealer. Does anyone know of an alternative supplier as the dealer wants approx £350 for the part.
I would be grateful for any assistance.
Shabs
propnut
March 21, 2008, 7:58 pm
You know warning lights are there for a reason. Just hiding them by resetting the temp ECU code is not resolving the problem. You need to have the ECU interrogated to ascertain what the code is. Perhaps start from there.
Turbo lag is a common feature of cars however it could be that your waste gate actuator is stuck open and so it is taking longer for the turbine to build sufficient pressure to provide adequate boost. Why don't you look at the simple things first and just make sure that none of the pipes leading to and from your turbo are cracked/perished.
previa fan
April 6, 2008, 4:45 pm
hello all, [b] previa d4d 2000[/b]
have symptons very similar to few postings.
power going , idled to stop, restarted. ok
engine warning light did come on.
took to local toyota dealer. quoted 2k for new turbo.
ran ok for 1 year.
has been playing up again recently.
let me down on way to gatwick.
took to small reliable guy in village.
put on sun diagnostic machine.
codes as folllows
p1250 turbocharger system malfunction
p1405 turbo press sensor malfunction
is one fault creating another fault code?
is the sun machine reliable?
am daunted at spending out on new turbo if problem is something else.
would appreciate any help
regards
jon
Bacon
April 7, 2008, 10:18 pm
[quote name='previa fan' post='739914' date='Apr 6 2008, 04:45 PM']hello all, [b] previa d4d 2000[/b]
have symptons very similar to few postings.
power going , idled to stop, restarted. ok
engine warning light did come on.
took to local toyota dealer. quoted 2k for new turbo.
ran ok for 1 year.
has been playing up again recently.
let me down on way to gatwick.
took to small reliable guy in village.
put on sun diagnostic machine.
codes as folllows
p1250 turbocharger system malfunction
p1405 turbo press sensor malfunction
is one fault creating another fault code?
is the sun machine reliable?
am daunted at spending out on new turbo if problem is something else.
would appreciate any help
regards
jon[/quote]
Jon,
your vehicle symptoms sound much the same as the one's I had on my 2003 Previa D4D with 35K miles. I didn't ask about codes at the time as I was more interested in what the real problem was . I managed to run the car just fine through summer but it raised it's ugly head again with the colder weather. I felt the car was now dangerous to drive and so I finally had the turbo replaced. They fitted the new turbo in a day and I asked for the old turbo back. In my particular case, the waste gate was siezed and having spoken to the mechanic again today, this was the fault they found. I'm fairly comfortable that my old turbo was faulty.
I now have black smoke when I blip the throttle at idle but that's a whole different story.
I can't say what your particular problem is but can only share my particular experience with you considering similar symptoms.
I have a few pics of the offending turbo.
KEVALS
May 28, 2008, 1:24 pm
[quote name='Shabs' post='734096' date='Mar 21 2008, 01:28 AM']Hi
I own a 2002 diesel model and also have issues with the turbo and was hoping that someone can help.
The main issue is that the engine hesitates occasionally before giving additional power. This happens when the turbo kicks in at about 1800rpm+ and mainly when the engine is not up to full working temperature or the turbo is first used. On the motorway it also occasionally does not give full power. Do I also need a new turbo?
I can see no additional smoke from the exhaust and once it has been running for a little while the problem is less noticeable or the turbo runs without fault.
It seems to me that it is not getting enough fuel or air? My garage has put the car on its diagnostic machine and cannot find a fault. They have suggested a new turbo is needed because the air flow meter (may have been sensor) has already been changed.
The engine management light also comes on (very occasionally) and puts the car in limp home mode but turning the car on and off has cured this.
Is it worth getting the turbo reconditioned? Or possibly an alternative supplier of a new turbo?
I also need a new CV joint but cannot find a supplier other than the main dealer. Does anyone know of an alternative supplier as the dealer wants approx £350 for the part.
I would be grateful for any assistance.
Shabs[/quote]
PREVIA C V JOINT TRY 02089001301
geoff@tnrradio
June 2, 2008, 9:29 am
just read through and i have exactly the same problem with my previa D4D , mine was fine until one day on the motorway using the cruise control , i had to break suddenly when a lorry cut in front of me without indicating , after that i have had no end of trouble with the turbo going into limp mode , i do the usual , stop turn engine off , re start and it's fine , it's been drivable ,then a few weeks ago , i had what i can only describe is the same thing you get if you;re about to run out of fuel although i had nearly a full tank , i put it down to dirty fuel as the garage where i'd filled up had run out , it was just before the strike at the scottish oil refinery so panic buying had dried them up .
when the tank got to under a quarter full , i topped it up and it was fine for weeks until this weekend when once again , loss of power then it would kick in , it was struggling to get to 40 mph with my foot to the floor then the power would kick in .
I'm really regretting buying this car as it looks as if it's going to be nothing but fork out on turbo's all the time .
geoff@tnrradio
June 2, 2008, 12:29 pm
went to a local garage to see about getting it checked , it's gonna cost me 38 quid plus vat per hour before the thing is even near to being repaired so you may as well say 150 quid just to find what the fault is on top of whatever parts need replacing plus the labour charge and VAT ,i know one thing , i won;t be buying another toyota , my old estima had the dreaded head crack lucky enough there , the dealer i bought it from paid for the repair as i'd only had the car 2 days .
the dealer i got this one from wasn't very helpful at all , i;d had the car 2 months when this fault appeared .
What i feel like doing is just selling the car as it is , cut my loses which in the long term is gonna be cheaper than having to keep spending out on it .
UPDATE
taking it in to get it looked at tomorrow , it was losing power then the warning light came on and i had perfect running from it , hopefully they'll get to the bottom of the problem ,i'll post the outcome
geoff@tnrradio
June 5, 2008, 5:06 pm
well , they put the car on their scanning machine , came up with turbo and fuel pump plus another history code which they don;t have on their computer so they are contacting toyota to find out what it is , i think maybe toyota will be as much help as a chocolate fireguard as obviously they want repairs done at their highly priced dealerships
so as of now , i have the car back , fault not fixed yet but i can drive it about carefully ,reckon i'll not get much change out of 2 and a half grand by the time this is sorted , i'd have got a top of the range zafira the same age ( an 03 plate ) cheaper and i bet parts would be a fraction of the cost of flippin toyota parts .
it's a shame cos it;s a lovely car
propnut
June 5, 2008, 6:06 pm
Turbo's are not that complicated. They are just a compressor whose motor is driven by exhaust gases. 90% of the time the biggest problem is the wastegate or its associated solenoid sticking open. The wastegate controls the pressure or "boost", when it get s to high the waste gate opens and bypasses gases away from the impeller and into the main exhaust. Obviously if it is stuck open all the gases get bypassed and so you get no boost. If you are good with your hands you might want to take it off and have a look. The wastegate is quite obvious and it should be esy to see if it is operating smoothly.
Take a read of my other comments in this thread.
japman
June 10, 2008, 11:19 am
`Guys I need some help here! Previa 2.0 D4d GLS 8 seater. Covered 80K now, fully maintained by the dealers.
Loss of power problem where when accelerating just feels like all the power is not there! On motorway struggles up hills>
I have has exhaust checked including catalyst, air mass meter replaced, egr valve removed and cleaned, turbo removed and new wastegate fitted as turbo was in good shape, injection cleaners, air filter as well as fuel filter and now i am banging my head on a brick wall to gain some headway.
With a Snap on Modus there are no codes on mainframe and no engine light has ever come on? However on the EOBD system we found P0108 mANIFOLD ABSOLUTE pRESSURE HIGH INPUT-P0104 MASS OR VOLUME AIR CIRCUIT INTERMITTENT-P0102MASS OR VOLUME AIR FLOW CIRCUIT RANGE PERFORMANCE- P0110- INTAke air temp sensor circuit 1. Srange thing is unable to clear the codes.
If there is any of you that can help with this strange vehicle please advise. By the way local dealer has no idea whats wrong??
Gone mad
geoff@tnrradio
June 11, 2008, 1:18 pm
looks as if my car is gonna cost a small fortune to get sorted , the place i took it to , their diagnostic machine came up with turbo and fuel pump and a history code , they've contacted toyota to find out exactly what the fault is and toyota won;t commit and tell them if it's definatley a fault with either so i now have to go to my local toyota dealer and have it put on their diagnostic machine .
wish i'd know that the previa's were prone to expensive faults occuring , i'd have never bought one .
so tomorrow , it's off to the local rip off merchants , ( main dealer ) to see what their diagnostic machine comes up with .
i'm thinking of just getting rid of the car , cut my losses on it and get something else
propnut
June 11, 2008, 1:49 pm
They fitted a new wastegate to your turbo but did they check the waste gate actuator ??. Really if you are losing power then it could be anything including
1. The turbo is not working properly
2. Your fuel flow is restricted (have a pressure test done)
3. Your cambelt has jumped a tooth and now your valve timing is out
4. Tight or sticking valves
5. You have a vacuum leak somewhere between the air intake and the inlet manifold
6. Your EGR valve is malfunctioning
7. Your PCV valve is blocked
8. Your Lamda sensors are malfunctioning and the ECU has gone into limp home mode
9. Your MAF/MAP sensor has malfunctioned and the car is in limp home mode.
But based on what the diagnosis is it looks like 1 & 2 are the most likely. Have you tried the most simple option and changed your fuel filter ????? Diesel can suffer from microbiological contamination which can block up the filter. If it blocks you have reduced fuel flow and then of course reduced performance.
I have the older generation Previa and there is a very good reason why I have stuck to that one and not moved on to the new generation and I think you are beginning to find out why.
That said though the older generation Diesel models all of which are imports should be avoided like the plague.
Best of luck.
previa fan
June 15, 2008, 2:27 pm
back again,
taken car (previa d4d 2001) to chap who was recommended as some sort of guru.
he suggested he send the turbo away to get reconditioned. cost £1300
he has since come back and told me that these turbo guys think that damage has been done at front end. IE something from the engine has become loose and gone into the turbo.
he has suggested that when the repaired turbo goes back on, same could happen again if there is shrapnel flying around in engine.
does this make sense?
should this guru have spotted front end damage?
any ideas
cheers
iMAGiNE007
June 16, 2008, 10:59 am
Same problem here. I have Avensis Verso D4D 2.0, 2005. It has "jerky" acceleration and sometimes engine light comes. I took it to local toyota dealer & service and diagnostic system found an error code P1251. They told me the problem may be in different parts of engine, but they still can't find it. I always leave them the car for 1-2 days after the management light comes up, but still no success.
geoff@tnrradio
June 17, 2008, 5:13 pm
took my previa in today for the diagnostic and it came up with nothing ,funny thing is , the car has been running fine , i described the symptoms and the guy said it sounds more like some valves sticking which in a way i hope it is as it's around 345 quid to sort instead of about 1700 for a turbo , the problem now is i have to wait until the symptoms start again then take it in which will be another 38 quid .
it's odd that you'll get loss of power as if the fuesl is running out or there's muck in the fuel , then the power will kick in and after a few miles of driving like that , the engine warning light will come on but the car starts driving fine and after you stop and re start the car , the warning light goes off and it drives fine .
propnut
June 19, 2008, 9:10 am
[quote name='geoff@tnrradio' post='764193' date='Jun 17 2008, 06:13 PM']took my previa in today for the diagnostic and it came up with nothing ,funny thing is , the car has been running fine , i described the symptoms and the guy said it sounds more like some valves sticking which in a way i hope it is as it's around 345 quid to sort instead of about 1700 for a turbo , the problem now is i have to wait until the symptoms start again then take it in which will be another 38 quid .
it's odd that you'll get loss of power as if the fuesl is running out or there's muck in the fuel , then the power will kick in and after a few miles of driving like that , the engine warning light will come on but the car starts driving fine and after you stop and re start the car , the warning light goes off and it drives fine .[/quote]
Sounds like your wastegate valve or actuator are sticking. This will give intermittent issues and are common causes of periodic power loss on any turbo vehicle.
I had to smile at Previa Fan's comment about shrapnel flying around the engine. I really cannot believe that any mechanic could possible suggest such a thing. Where exactly would this "shrapnel" come from. What exactly would be flying around the engine. If anything had come loose you would certainly know about it long before it hit the turbo. Unless it was one the the turbo's own vanes disintegrating (which is highly unlikely) this is a huge lump of bovine feces.
Bacon
June 19, 2008, 12:20 pm
I haven't said much more here on the problems some are suffering on the possible turbo failure on the Previa as I don't really have any more to add than I have already posted.
I know that the failure on our car was the wastegate as I have the old turbo sitting on my bench. Our problems started with some hesitation when pulling away and eventually the EML coming on very occasionally with the usual limp home mode that just isn't worth a dam. Stopping the car and restarting it would reset the EML and the car would drive normally. It of course got worse and then for some strange reason performed normally all summer and then the problem came back in the colder months. It reached a point that I could drive this car without the problem hitting us by careful use of the throttle. Heavy use would bring the light on every time and use of the cruise would do the same as the cruise just isn't as gentle as I am on the throttle. My wife had also developed her own method of driving the car carefully so that the problem didn't hurt us. We mostly village hop here so gentle throttle use is fairly easy.
I decided to get the turbo replaced after being compromised a couple of times on the motorway with a wheelchair passenger in the back. Just not safe. Toyota did provide the turbo at a discounted price as we were not long out of warranty, car was dealer serviced and we first reported the problem at about 27K miles if I remember correctly.
japman
June 21, 2008, 9:15 am
:wacko:Hi guys. 1 week on and no positive news from the main dealer.
Just managed to squeeze some info out of them now and have confirmed they have a turbo and a vacum? on the parts list??? I have had this turbo removed and new wastegate fitted for arguments sake as we could not fault the original one? Is there any way i can confirm this turbo was not gone??
Thanks for your earlier reply propnut!
propnut
June 21, 2008, 2:57 pm
All turbo or supercharged vehicles are designed to operate within a certain boost limit. This is the purpose of the wastegate, it is a safety and control valve. For example if your car is designed to operate at a max boost of 8 psi, then either at 8 or maginally over or under the wastegate opens to divert the exhaust gases away from the turbo impellers and into the main stream exhaust system. In doing so it manages the boost. As the boost falls below this level then the wastegate closes allowing the boost pressure to increase and the process continues. Now it is possible to test the efficiency of the turbo using a boost gauge connected to either a purpose fitted tap on the turbo or off the inlet manifold. You may want to ask them if they have conducted such a test and if not why not.
I have said it before on other posts and maintain it here again. The majority (but certainly not all) of modern mechanics are just part changers. They read a code off an OBD scanner and change the part. If that doesn't fix it then they change another part and another etc etc . In other words they fix by a process of elimination or as we used to call it trial and error!!!!
What seems to have been lost is a thorough teaching of automotive physics and mechanical fundamentals. Without these one is not armed with sufficient knowledge to make intelligent decisions and diagnosis of a problem.
A short while ago I went in search of "plastigauge". To those of you out there who have a background in automotive engineering you will know what this is. For those who don't it is an extremely simple but absolutely necessary tool for evaluating the hydraulic wedge clearances between two surfaces. Do you think I could find one auto factors or agent who knew what I was talking about........no ****ing way. I even went to my local Nissan and Toyota agents to ask their workshop foremen where they got theirs from to which I got..."you want what??????" and then ....."sorry mate we don't rebuild engines anymore". In the end I got it from the USA via Ebay.
Need I say more.
JustBrowsing
November 18, 2008, 12:17 am
[quote name='iMAGiNE007' post='763660' date='Jun 16 2008, 11:59 AM']Same problem here. I have Avensis Verso D4D 2.0, 2005. It has "jerky" acceleration and sometimes engine light comes. I took it to local toyota dealer & service and diagnostic system found an error code P1251. They told me the problem may be in different parts of engine, but they still can't find it. I always leave them the car for 1-2 days after the management light comes up, but still no success.

[/quote]
Hi, i have same poblem on my avensis verso. Any further foward with a solution?
JustBrowsing
November 18, 2008, 12:19 am
[quote name='JustBrowsing' post='823166' date='Nov 18 2008, 01:17 AM'][quote name='iMAGiNE007' post='763660' date='Jun 16 2008, 11:59 AM']Same problem here. I have Avensis Verso D4D 2.0, 2005. It has "jerky" acceleration and sometimes engine light comes. I took it to local toyota dealer & service and diagnostic system found an error code P1251. They told me the problem may be in different parts of engine, but they still can't find it. I always leave them the car for 1-2 days after the management light comes up, but still no success.

[/quote]
Hi, i have same poblem on my avensis verso. Any further forward with a solution?
[/quote]
iMAGiNE007
December 6, 2008, 7:38 pm
So finally it is working correctly!!! I have found the company that involves in cleaning of turbo chargers. They cleaned and decarbonized my turbo and the problem is gone. It cost me some 170 €.
propnut
December 6, 2008, 9:09 pm
[quote name='iMAGiNE007' post='829296' date='Dec 6 2008, 07:38 PM']So finally it is working correctly!!! I have found the company that involves in cleaning of turbo chargers. They cleaned and decarbonized my turbo and the problem is gone. It cost me some 170 €.[/quote]
There you go you see, regarding my comment on modern mechanics above...............I rest my case. How many people have been conned into a new turbo when all that was possibly required was a decoke. 99% chance it was your waste gate that they cleaned.
hexagon
December 9, 2008, 11:30 pm
Just joined this forum & interested in Turbo limp mode issues
Not wishing to sound patronising but this thread is a great example of members sharing relevant experience & practical knowledge
A bit different from some other web site forums with little or zero type reply threads
Bacon
December 15, 2008, 10:38 pm
[quote name='Bacon' post='724194' date='Feb 20 2008, 03:11 PM']Well, today I finally booked in our Previa to have a new turbo fitted next week. We had this diagnosed by the main dealer almost a year ago when we were getting the dreaded engine management light on and a sudden drop in engine performance. Stopping the car and restarting the engine would clear it. We have managed to get another year out of it by careful use of the throttle and to be honest, it appears to run perfectly during the summer months and them show it's ugly head again during winter months. The fault codes always say 'stuck turbo' . When it fails, it wouldn't pull the skin off a cold plate of porridge
The car was 4 years old when first diagnosed with 27k miles on it. A year later we are at 34K miles. Toyota offered us a 1/3 off the price of the Turbo when it first occered and will still honour this one year later. Dealer is helping with the labour cost but I must say I am not a happy bunny as they say.

I get the impression that failing turbo's are getting quite common as the dealer has done a few including RAV4's? The good thing is he won't be learning on my car.
I'm not sure that I really have a point here other than being able to share this with other Previa owners or perhaps invite some comment from a Toyota Tech who appear to frequent this forum.
Regards
Alex[/quote]
OK, I started this thread when I had my Turbo replaced on my Previa D4D. I have the old turbo in my garage and from what I can see, the wastgate is stuck. From other posts on here, it may be coked up. I'll look at that some other time.
Anyway, after the turbo change, I noticed that the car would puff black smoke when the throttle was blipped at standstill. I didn't notice any while driving. I never noticed this before but it would be fair to say I wasn't looking for it. I asked the dealer to look at this as I felt it was tied into the turbo change. I agreed to bring the car back in when I had a convenient time to do so . After driving the car a few months like this (wheelchair vehicle) with no EML, the problem developed into some heavy black smoke. If I reved the car at idle, I could now lay a black trail down on the road from the exhaust smoke. The other symptom was at 3000 revs, the car lost all pulling power. I could get it to rev higher on the move but it would take a long time and just wouldn't pull. No engine management lights this time around. Just a solid no real power at 3000 revs and black smoke.
I had the dealer take the car away to check out the turbo installation and anything else they could think of. I also asked for a mechanic who has experience on diesels and the shop foreman personally took charge. After two days in the shop, the shop foreman brought my car to me and showed me the two items that were replaced. From what I have learned over on the RAV4 forum technical section, the mechanic replaced the Suction Control Valves (SCV) on the fuel injection pump. These are replaced in pairs.
[url="http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87986"]http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87986[/url]
The car is now running as well as I can ever remember it. Although the mechanic tells me the two problems are unconnected, I'm left wondering if the black exhaust smoke was coking up the turbo wastegate. Cause and effect?
So, I should probably start another thread for this but I still feel it's connected to the original turbo failure or are these engines that problematic?
u02i045
January 21, 2009, 11:45 am
Hi, guys Ref: Toyota Previa 2003 Uk
I had a Problem with my Turbo in 2005 and got it replaced under warranty, in the Winter of 2007 ( Begining of November) all of a sudden loss of power and Mangement light etc started again, not beaing able to afford the costs involved in replacing he TURBO( warranty now expired ), I asked went hunting for a cheaper option and came across an old friend who works for a place where they recon. engine parts.
short of it all is he told me to try 10k Boost available @ most Halfords and Redex in the fuel system half tank fuel not the recommended full tank dilution
Now December 07 (christmas week) I tried this and within a week or 2, I noticed the diffrence NO MORE LOSS OF POWER, NO WARNING LIGHTS things were looking good, did not want to post anything on here as I was not sure how long this would last.
Its now near the End of Jan 2009 and I have not had a problem since trying the 10K boost and Redex
TOTAL COST £25
its worked for me and I would recommend giving it a try as it will only set you back £25
rhjoiner
February 7, 2009, 10:32 pm
[quote name='u02i045' post='843963' date='Jan 21 2009, 11:45 AM']Hi, guys Ref: Toyota Previa 2003 Uk
I had a Problem with my Turbo in 2005 and got it replaced under warranty, in the Winter of 2007 ( Begining of November) all of a sudden loss of power and Mangement light etc started again, not beaing able to afford the costs involved in replacing he TURBO( warranty now expired ), I asked went hunting for a cheaper option and came across an old friend who works for a place where they recon. engine parts.
short of it all is he told me to try 10k Boost available @ most Halfords and Redex in the fuel system half tank fuel not the recommended full tank dilution
Now December 07 (christmas week) I tried this and within a week or 2, I noticed the diffrence NO MORE LOSS OF POWER, NO WARNING LIGHTS things were looking good, did not want to post anything on here as I was not sure how long this would last.
Its now near the End of Jan 2009 and I have not had a problem since trying the 10K boost and Redex
TOTAL COST £25
its worked for me and I would recommend giving it a try as it will only set you back £25[/quote]
rhjoiner
February 8, 2009, 12:18 am
[color="#0000FF"][color="#0000FF"][quote name='rhjoiner' post='850780' date='Feb 7 2009, 10:32 PM'][quote name='u02i045' post='843963' date='Jan 21 2009, 11:45 AM']Hi, guys Ref: Toyota Previa 2003 Uk
I had a Problem with my Turbo in 2005 and got it replaced under warranty, in the Winter of 2007 ( Begining of November) all of a sudden loss of power and Mangement light etc started again, not beaing able to afford the costs involved in replacing he TURBO( warranty now expired ), I asked went hunting for a cheaper option and came across an old friend who works for a place where they recon. engine parts.
short of it all is he told me to try 10k Boost available @ most Halfords and Redex in the fuel system half tank fuel not the recommended full tank dilution
Now December 07 (christmas week) I tried this and within a week or 2, I noticed the diffrence NO MORE LOSS OF POWER, NO WARNING LIGHTS things were looking good, did not want to post anything on here as I was not sure how long this would last.
Its now near the End of Jan 2009 and I have not had a problem since trying the 10K boost and Redex
TOTAL COST £25
its worked for me and I would recommend giving it a try as it will only set you back £25[/quote]
[/quote][/color][/color]
Hi I have posted on this turbo subject earier in the thread 7th March 2008. I have a little more information for you!
As you will have read in the post I made on 7th March 08 I have had previous problems with the turbo.
I had it removed and repaired ( since found out it was not actualy repaired, it was checked, cleaned, and then re-checked for operating after cleaning. It was diagnosed by the Turbo Specialists as only been choked up with carbon & they cleaned it, tested it, and returned it with a clean bill of health).
As mentioned in the last post I made it was fine for around 4 to 5 weeks then the car cut out on me again with the managment light coming on. As before turning the ignition off & restrting it would clear the managment light. This happend to me twice within one short motorway journey back in March last year. After that the car was only used for short local journeys around town. Kids to school, suppermarkets, shops etc. The cutting out problem didnt occur again although it was not running 100%.
In August 2008 we planed a 4 week holiday in Torrevieja in Spain & wanted to take the car. Before we left I asked a garage to do a full service on the car including oil change, new oil filter, air filter, fule filter, etc. The garage said the problem with it not running 100% was probably down to the "air flow meter". They said they would change it for me while they carried out the service if I went and collected one from the main Toyota dealer, which I did at a cost of £115. (just for the Air Flow Meter, the cost of the service parts & labour were paid to the garage seperatly) They fitted the part & completed the service.
Before setting off I took out the best break down Insurance I could find, crossed my fingers & set off.
We had covered just short of 4000 miles as we arrived back home & the car had run like a dream the whole journey. The only problem been the Air conditioning Packed in on the way there.
Since we have arrived back the car has slowly started to deteriorate to its former state. It's not running particulaly well & the fault of cutting out to limp mode & the management light coming on has started up again. This has become progressivley worse and is now happening on the odd occasion while driving around town. It mainly seems to happens when reaching the summet of steeper hills. Its got to the position where you are making sure you keep to the inside lane just in case it cuts out. It is still drivable, its just a case of been cautious on the uphills.
last week I had it check out on the computer & it has come up with the fault codes saying "Tubo Fault" again. I would love to just take it into the main dealers and say right please fix it & give me a ring when its ready but I just cant afford the exessive prices they charge.
I cant seem any harm in trying the solution that previous post has done wth the 10k Boost & Redex, at £25 its wortth a try & surley cant do any harm. I must admit if it has cured the problem for him I think he has been very lucky. For some reason I cant see it working for me but I will give it a go. If I have no joy with this then I think it will be a case of the same procedure as last time. My friend stripping down as necessary to get to the turbo & removing it, having it sent away to be reconditioned & then refitted & more finger crossing.
I have yet to have the air conditioning fixed. I took it to an english garage while in Spain. They tried to re-gas it but it did not work. They looked for signs of split hoses etc but could not find none so I told them not to go any further & I would have it looked at in the UK. I would like the air conditioning sorting out but at the moment it is not a neccessaty. The cutting out problem is more of a priority at the moment.
I will keep you posted on how things have progressed.
If anyone has other coments or advise please post
Many thanks
rhjoiner
tackyturbo
March 12, 2009, 3:07 pm
Hi there . im a new member with Turbo Problems. Had it replaced 3 weeks ago at amain dealer. It lost power again today and engine management light came on again!
Now they tell me that the fuel injectors need replacing costing 1600 euro!
I feel absolutely helpless, the new turbo did not rectify the problem at all but they tell me that this is unconnected to the recent problems.
Help! Helpless and broke
allewtor
April 21, 2009, 8:32 am
[quote name='tackyturbo' post='865186' date='Mar 12 2009, 04:07 PM']Hi there . im a new member with Turbo Problems. Had it replaced 3 weeks ago at amain dealer. It lost power again today and engine management light came on again!
Now they tell me that the fuel injectors need replacing costing 1600 euro!
I feel absolutely helpless, the new turbo did not rectify the problem at all but they tell me that this is unconnected to the recent problems.
Help! Helpless and broke[/quote]
Hi new member here with what appears to be the same problem as the folks above have.
I have a 2002 Previa, and the dreaded engine management light came on, turned engine off, drove carefully etc etc. finally I had to take it to the dealership where they have just given me some fault codes, which are.
DTC 342
343
344 THESE CODES RELATED TO TURBO CHARGER
782
78(3) THESE CODES RELATED TO FUEL PUMP SYSTEM
I'm of the mind that the technicians at the dealership don't really know what the problem is and will just change all the parts that may be the problem.
If anyone has seen these codes and understands them would you be kind enough to throw some light on them for me so I am fore armed with knowledge when the dealership comes at me with repair bills.
This does seem to be a common problem considering all the people in this thread with the same story, i'm going to get on to Toyota and see what they have got to say, i'll let you know in due course what drivel they come out with.
greengrass
April 23, 2009, 7:08 am
Hello. I have inherited a Previa D4-D with very similar problems. A little while ago it developed the same limp-home / MIL on problems, which could be overcome by switching off and stasting again. However some time later the turbo went bang, draining the engine of oil (knackering it) and filling the intercooler and exhaust system with oil. An overhauled engine and complete turbo were fitted, and as much of the oil removed from the various pipes. It now does not smoke apart from the odd puff now and again. However the original problem has since returned, and having had similar symptoms on both a VW Sharan diesel and a Merc Sprinter, I replaced the boost pressure sensor (£195) (it cured those two!) but to no avail. Further investigation showed that the turbo was receiving a vacuum command all the time as though the control valve was stuck. The valve seemed to be getting a sensible electrical signal but not doing anything. So I bit the bullet and replaced it. Another £180. It has obviously done some good as the symptoms have certainly altered. The car chugs along fine now, but the control valve does not open until 4,000 rpm by which time the engine is nearing the red line. You can certainly feel it cut in! Good boost pressure and vacuum. However until the engine reaches 4,000 rpm, it performs very much like my rather gutless 1900cc LDV Pilot! Is there a way of adjusting the time at which the vac valve opens? Or is the the ECU corrupted? Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks
Sportyking
August 9, 2009, 10:31 pm
[/quote]
The other symptom was at 3000 revs, the car lost all pulling power. I could get it to rev higher on the move but it would take a long time and just wouldn't pull. No engine management lights this time around. Just a solid no real power at 3000 revs and black smoke.
I had the dealer take the car away to check out the turbo installation and anything else they could think of. I also asked for a mechanic who has experience on diesels and the shop foreman personally took charge. After two days in the shop, the shop foreman brought my car to me and showed me the two items that were replaced. From what I have learned over on the RAV4 forum technical section, the mechanic replaced the Suction Control Valves (SCV) on the fuel injection pump. These are replaced in pairs.
[url="http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87986"]http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87986[/url]
The car is now running as well as I can ever remember it. Although the mechanic tells me the two problems are unconnected, I'm left wondering if the black exhaust smoke was coking up the turbo wastegate. Cause and effect?
So, I should probably start another thread for this but I still feel it's connected to the original turbo failure or are these engines that problematic?
[/quote]
Bacon, I am very interested in your latest issue with Turbo power loss, as I may have the same on a 2003 D-4-D Previa with 48k miles.
The Turbo provides good boost low down but then from 2800RPM onwards I can feel the boost being bled away until at 3000 RPM there is none and further progress is non-existant in the higher gears.
If I accelarate briskly you not notice the boost start to bleed away, instead at 3000RPM it feels like you hit a wall as the turbo dumps all boost in an instant and the car pulls back.
No engine management light or warning present.
This came overnight, one moment no problem, next day the same symptoms are always there
The only way the fault differs is that there is no obvious black smoke.
The Toyota dealer did a diagnostic and surprise surprise they want £2500 for a turbo change but I know it's not that.
It boosts low down so Turbo works (As it happens at exactly the same RPM every time I have dicounted pressure leaking through seals as a possibility)
If it is as it feels that the waste-gate is opening then that also works because when I drop below 2800RPM boost returns, proving it opens and closes.
So I am looking for the reason the boost is shut off.
I was thinking a faulty manifold pressure sensor and am currently investigating a repair manual to go further, but I am interested in these SCVs you mention and would like to know whether they are a "cheap" repair that could be tried or they are as usual for Toyota, silly expensive.
Bacon
August 14, 2009, 12:26 pm
SportyKing, when I had the new issue at 3000 revs, it was like a switch. Hit 3k and no power. It is a different issue to my stuck turbo wastegate although I did wonder if the fuel issue caused the turbo problem. If you follow my link in my post,
[url="http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87986"]http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87986[/url]
it really gives you chapter and verse on costs (about £200 for parts) and testing methods as well as how one guy changed out the SCV's on his RAV4. It's a known problem on the 2l DVD engine from what I'm told. You will see over in the Rav forum that they see the same problem on that car and engine as well. My dealer foreman 'mechanic' who now works on my car (advice from Propnut) showed me the items replaced and told me that with their diagnostic tool connected, they could see the pulse fall away from one of the SCV's at 3k revs so they changed both SCV's and this corrected the issue.
There is a guy 'Parts King' over on that forum that can supply discounted parts to TOC members.
Good luck and let us know how you progress.
Sportyking
August 15, 2009, 2:15 am
[quote name='Bacon' post='922072' date='Aug 14 2009, 12:26 PM']SportyKing, when I had the new issue at 3000 revs, it was like a switch. Hit 3k and no power. It is a different issue to my stuck turbo wastegate although I did wonder if the fuel issue caused the turbo problem. If you follow my link in my post,
[url="http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87986"]http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87986[/url]
it really gives you chapter and verse on costs (about £200 for parts) and testing methods as well as how one guy changed out the SCV's on his RAV4. It's a known problem on the 2l DVD engine from what I'm told. You will see over in the Rav forum that they see the same problem on that car and engine as well. My dealer foreman 'mechanic' who now works on my car (advice from Propnut) showed me the items replaced and told me that with their diagnostic tool connected, they could see the pulse fall away from one of the SCV's at 3k revs so they changed both SCV's and this corrected the issue.
There is a guy 'Parts King' over on that forum that can supply discounted parts to TOC members.
Good luck and let us know how you progress.[/quote]
Bacon, many thanks it sounds identical to my snag, I may just get this info into our local friendly garage and try it. What the Toyota dealers (JEMCA) are doing declaring the turbo duff is probably just trying to take advantage of the Woman that took the car in for me. I would normally sort it all out myself but I'm away for work at the moment so Mega thanks for taking the time to put together the comprehensive reply.
Gaff
September 30, 2009, 11:32 pm
Jus purchased a 2002 PRevia D4D. Am seriously worried now about this turbo failure business, thus far she has been pulling fine. Question is: would an aftermarket turbo (GReddy,Turbonetics) of the same size work? After market are often very much more reliable that manufacturer parts. Just an idea, if it'll help and work!.
tcm
November 17, 2009, 3:51 pm
[quote name='u02i045' post='843963' date='Jan 21 2009, 11:45 AM']Hi, guys Ref: Toyota Previa 2003 Uk
I had a Problem with my Turbo in 2005 and got it replaced under warranty, in the Winter of 2007 ( Begining of November) all of a sudden loss of power and Mangement light etc started again, not beaing able to afford the costs involved in replacing he TURBO( warranty now expired ), I asked went hunting for a cheaper option and came across an old friend who works for a place where they recon. engine parts.
short of it all is he told me to try 10k Boost available @ most Halfords and Redex in the fuel system half tank fuel not the recommended full tank dilution
Now December 07 (christmas week) I tried this and within a week or 2, I noticed the diffrence NO MORE LOSS OF POWER, NO WARNING LIGHTS things were looking good, did not want to post anything on here as I was not sure how long this would last.
Its now near the End of Jan 2009 and I have not had a problem since trying the 10K boost and Redex
TOTAL COST £25
its worked for me and I would recommend giving it a try as it will only set you back £25[/quote]
Hi, I also have a 2003 D4D losing boost at 3000 revs, and wanted to try this 10k Boost/Redex solution before trying anything else. Can you describe how I get to the turbo inlet to spray the 10k Boost in? Any diagrams anywhere?
Many thanks.
Sportyking
January 4, 2010, 3:18 am
After a long spell away I finally got to look at my problem. Despite Toyota charging my Sister over £100 for a dignosis and declaring the turbo needed replacement at £2500 it turned out to br the fuel filter needed changing which cost £20. Wjth the sudden onset of the symptoms and virtually no worsening of the situation in the six months I couldn't investigate the issue, I would have to suspect a tank of dirty fuel partially blocked the filter. Unfortunately I changed the SCV's first at just over £200 for parts with no improvement. Anyay the Previa now pulls like a train again.
tcm, the best way to apply the 10k boost would be to open the airbox, remove filter, then remove airbox lid from the pipe that goes directly to the turbo inlet. This will negate any need to remove the air sensor from the lid or risk of gummming it up. Spray directly into the turbo inlet pipe taking great care to ensure nothing else gets sucked in while the engine is running.
AdrianHartopp
January 20, 2010, 2:34 pm
First off, can I say what a relief it is to have found all this information as I've got the same problem on my 53 Previa.
I'm going to go the route of the cheapest first, up to the most expensive, so have purchased Redex and 10K Boost.
Redex is already in the tank as that's the easiest one, but I'm unsure as to what to take apart so I can apply the 10K Boost.
Would anyone have any diagrams or pictures they could label for me so I could give this a go too. I'm not scared to try anything, as long as I have instruction as to what to take apart.
Thanks in advance for any info forth coming.
Adrian