Hi all

I have a Rav4 Diesel 2004, took my car to a garage as I had noticed a small oil leak on drive, I was told it was the seal on the pan the the cost would be £694...

When I enquired why a gasket would cost that much they told me I would need a new pan as well costing £300. I got them to check the pan and there is nothing wrong with it, but they say when these are taken off they always get damaged so you always have to fit a new one...

can anyone tell me If this is the case please

if not anyone know a good garage that would carry out this repair without charging me £700

Cheers

Richard

Seems well over the top. I assume they mean the oil sump - surely that would only need replaced if it hit something? And isn't there a cover below to stop that happening.

I'd an oil leak on the 3SFE engine but it was the front crankshaft seal - the oil just tracked around the under pan cover til it dropped down. Yours of course is a different engine - anchorman or some of the guys who have diesels should appear soon!!

Oh - and a warm welcome to the forum!!!!! You'll need to cast your vote for the preferred RAV which is of course the 3 door petrol !!!

[quote name='bothwell_buyer' post='768665' date='Jul 1 2008, 12:17 PM']Seems well over the top. I assume they mean the oil sump - surely that would only need replaced if it hit something? And isn't there a cover below to stop that happening.

I'd an oil leak on the 3SFE engine but it was the front crankshaft seal - the oil just tracked around the under pan cover til it dropped down. Yours of course is a different engine - anchorman or some of the guys who have diesels should appear soon!!

Oh - and a warm welcome to the forum!!!!! You'll need to cast your vote for the preferred RAV which is of course the 3 door petrol !!![/quote]


Cheers for the welcome...

where do I cast this vote for the 4 door diesel

[quote name='Richard1974' post='768669' date='Jul 1 2008, 12:26 PM'][quote name='bothwell_buyer' post='768665' date='Jul 1 2008, 12:17 PM']Seems well over the top. I assume they mean the oil sump - surely that would only need replaced if it hit something? And isn't there a cover below to stop that happening.

I'd an oil leak on the 3SFE engine but it was the front crankshaft seal - the oil just tracked around the under pan cover til it dropped down. Yours of course is a different engine - anchorman or some of the guys who have diesels should appear soon!!

Oh - and a warm welcome to the forum!!!!! You'll need to cast your vote for the preferred RAV which is of course the 3 door petrol !!![/quote]


Cheers for the welcome...

where do I cast this vote for the 4 door diesel
[/quote]

Quite right - don't be letting Bothy influence your favourite RAV just coz he is a bit lonely on the 3Dr 4.1 Rav

And on the oil pan thingy - £600+ to fix a leak does seem way over the odds

[quote name='Hoovie' post='768679' date='Jul 1 2008, 01:15 PM'][quote name='Richard1974' post='768669' date='Jul 1 2008, 12:26 PM'][quote name='bothwell_buyer' post='768665' date='Jul 1 2008, 12:17 PM']Seems well over the top. I assume they mean the oil sump - surely that would only need replaced if it hit something? And isn't there a cover below to stop that happening.

I'd an oil leak on the 3SFE engine but it was the front crankshaft seal - the oil just tracked around the under pan cover til it dropped down. Yours of course is a different engine - anchorman or some of the guys who have diesels should appear soon!!

Oh - and a warm welcome to the forum!!!!! You'll need to cast your vote for the preferred RAV which is of course the 3 door petrol !!![/quote]


Cheers for the welcome...

where do I cast this vote for the 4 door diesel
[/quote]

Quite right - don't be letting Bothy influence your favourite RAV just coz he is a bit lonely on the 3Dr 4.1 Rav

And on the oil pan thingy - £600+ to fix a leak does seem way over the odds
[/quote]


I don't understand If the oil pan is fine, why they just can't take it off nicely and replace it after putting on a new seal??

They are being cautious and a bit "belt and braces" The sump pans on most Toyota's are now sealed with sealer rather than having a gasket. There is a tool for removing the sump which is a bit like a bolster chisel. You have to tap your way all around the sump, as the sealer is really difficult to shift, so difficult in fact that you just cant remove it without damaging the sump. You are better off knowing up front, and then if it is not required, you wont incur the expense

Kingo

[quote name='Parts-King' post='768711' date='Jul 1 2008, 02:21 PM']They are being cautious and a bit "belt and braces" The sump pans on most Toyota's are now sealed with sealer rather than having a gasket. There is a tool for removing the sump which is a bit like a bolster chisel. You have to tap your way all around the sump, as the sealer is really difficult to shift, so difficult in fact that you just cant remove it without damaging the sump.[/quote]

Well....you learn something everyday!

[quote name='Parts-King' post='768711' date='Jul 1 2008, 02:21 PM']They are being cautious and a bit "belt and braces" The sump pans on most Toyota's are now sealed with sealer rather than having a gasket. There is a tool for removing the sump which is a bit like a bolster chisel. You have to tap your way all around the sump, as the sealer is really difficult to shift, so difficult in fact that you just cant remove it without damaging the sump. You are better off knowing up front, and then if it is not required, you wont incur the expense

Kingo [/quote]

So am I really looking at £700 then for the labor and part?

It sounds like Toyota need a better way to do that TBH!

There is a part that is perfectly sound (as it is the seal, not the lump of metal that has failed), but the mechanic may damage it removing it and IF he does, he expects the customer to pay!

Bit Hit and Miss, don't you think? - literally!!

Seems to me that they need to cut the sealer away rather then whack it with a bolster chisel - this kind of tool could do the job without much problem - [url="http://www.ultimate"]http://www.ultimate[/url] handyman.co.uk/Tool_Reviews/bosch_pmf_180E.htm - Bosch PMF 180 E and is only £60


Also, how come if it is sealant, not a gasket, that some more sealant cannot be applied to the failed area as a possible fix and alternative to such an expensive repair

Cheers for your help on this guys, I'll let you know the outcome

Richard

Theres a tin sump at the bottom (very easy to do) and it fits to an alloy sub-sump which is more complicated. I think I would go to a good local garage as it sounds like the dealer wants to make a meal out of it. Either that or go back to the dealer and get him to be more specific and pin him down to a price.

I was going to show you some diagrams but can't get into photobucket!

EDIT; There we go!

[img]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x133/anchorman_02/sump.jpg[/img]

[quote name='Parts-King' post='768711' date='Jul 1 2008, 02:21 PM']They are being cautious and a bit "belt and braces" The sump pans on most Toyota's are now sealed with sealer rather than having a gasket. There is a tool for removing the sump which is a bit like a bolster chisel. You have to tap your way all around the sump, as the sealer is really difficult to shift, so difficult in fact that you just cant remove it without damaging the sump. You are better off knowing up front, and then if it is not required, you wont incur the expense

Kingo [/quote]I assume once the sump has been seperated, with said bolster chisel, all the old sealant will need cleaning off before re application of new sealer and re-mating of sump, i'snt technology supposed to be moving forward? are we going back to red +green hermatite W.T.F... £700 to re-fit a sump my first 3 cars didn't cost that much!!!

[quote name='local hero' post='769016' date='Jul 2 2008, 12:16 AM'][quote name='Parts-King' post='768711' date='Jul 1 2008, 02:21 PM']They are being cautious and a bit "belt and braces" The sump pans on most Toyota's are now sealed with sealer rather than having a gasket. There is a tool for removing the sump which is a bit like a bolster chisel. You have to tap your way all around the sump, as the sealer is really difficult to shift, so difficult in fact that you just cant remove it without damaging the sump. You are better off knowing up front, and then if it is not required, you wont incur the expense

Kingo [/quote]I assume once the sump has been seperated, with said bolster chisel, all the old sealant will need cleaning off before re application of new sealer and re-mating of sump, i'snt technology supposed to be moving forward? are we going back to red +green hermatite W.T.F... £700 to re-fit a sump my first 3 cars didn't cost that much!!!
[/quote]
Showing your age stewpot (thats another blast from the past).

My first 3 cars all cost less than £40!

The fact is that these modern sealers are generally more reliable and they don't "bed down" needing nipping up after time. However that is all that is needed and I would do it myself. I have seperated many alloy castings and even if you do mar them I've never resorted to renewing them as the alloy easily cleans up.

On the original Celica's TA2# series, the gearbox was alloy and was in "two halves" when mated together you didnt need any sealer, so good was the "mating" process of the two halves

I have seen tin sumps destroyed in the removal process, the factory sealer seems to weld it's self to the tin

I would be asking questions about the price

Kingo

[quote name='Parts-King' post='769074' date='Jul 2 2008, 09:49 AM']On the original Celica's TA2# series, the gearbox was alloy and was in "two halves" when mated together you didnt need any sealer, so good was the "mating" process of the two halves

I have seen tin sumps destroyed in the removal process, the factory sealer seems to weld it's self to the tin

I would be asking questions about the price

Kingo [/quote]

Is this the same for all RAV's including the T180... If the owner gets a flat tyre and an oil leek at the same time ....May have to provide counselling and after patent care services for the forthcoming bill £££££££££££££££