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dohertydeano

Registered Member
  • Content count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About dohertydeano

  • Rank
    Club Member
  • Birthday 06/18/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    starlet
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Galway
  1. Ok so i noticed a few weeks ago that the side lights on my 97 starlet are not working. They are new bulbs and the fuses seem fine. Anyone have any idea what this might be and if the buzzer is connected to this.
  2. Got board last week so decided to clean up the brakes on my 97 starlet. Got some kawasaki green caliper paint of ebay and some wire brush and sanding heads for my grinder to clean the dirt of the calipers and drums. Used a degreaser spray to fininsh of the cleaning and make shure they where all set to paint. Started of with the drum brakes. Used a sanding disc on the grinder to take of the rust then a wire brush head to take the last bit of grit and dirt of. If your using the wire brush head on a grinder like I did, make shure you use goggels as the wire brisels fly and can stab into your skin. (if you get one in the eye your backjaxed) Took three coats of paint to get a nice finish. Didn't let the paint dry completely as i needed to get the back wheels back on so i could take of the front calipers. (only have one set of axle stands). Only let the paint dry for about 2 hours, it was touch dry but just not fully hard. Car was going to be moved to 24 hours to just let the paint dry on the car. Also got board waiting for the drums to dry so i took the valve cover of the cleaned and painted it to. The paint says it not sutible for alluminium but i thought id try it anyway. Turned out all right, been painted for a week now and the paint looks ok on the alluminium valve cover. Did the front calipers last, these are a bit more difficult to clean due to there shape. I took the whole caliper off and the brake pad braket to, it means you have to bleed the brakes when you put them back on but its worth the effort. Seeing as the calipers where off i also took the time to clean all the parts to and examin the boots, turns out one of the boots has a hole in it so ill have to get new ones and change them. Be careful not to damage or scrape the piston or the boare on the calipers when your cleaning them. Again it took 3-4 coats of paint to cover the calipers properly and then left them overnight to dry. Only thing i want to do now is paint the three panels of silver on the door trim to the same shade of kawasaki green. Dose anyone have any idea about the best way to do this. Was thinking of using the same caliper paint as i cant find any spray paint in the same colour.
  3. This is the last job i carried out on my car this weekend. Its rely simlpe and makes a massive differancefor some. My brake pedel was rely spongy, i only rely noticed how bad it was till i had to drive my dads yaris, which brakes are rely good. If you press your brake pedel and it travles a long way down before braking, or if your brakes feel soft or spongy, this simple fix might help. Before starting remember that brake fluid is poisonous, flamible and a rely effective PAINT STRIPPER. Here the tools youll need; A jam jar with a lid and hole in it a piece of plastic or rubber tubing which fits tightly over the bleed screw (it needs to be clear so you can see the brake fluid inside) brake fluid DOT 3 or 4 8mm spaner wire brush and clean rag and an assistant First of locate your master cylinder reservoir in your engine and make shure it is filled up to the MAX line. It will have a warning on it to only use brake fluid. Do not let the level drop below the min line when you are bleeding the brakes, if you do you will let air into the system and you will have to bleed the whole system again. Next chock the wheels just in case, you'll be under the car so better safe than sorry. Take the rubber caps of the bleed screw and with your wire brush clean the area around the screw, then give it a wipe with a clean cloth. The bleed screw is the little valve that sticks out at the back of each of your brakes. Get your assistant to sit in the car and pump the brakes a few times till there stiff, then get him/her to push a final time but to hold the pressure on the pedel till you till them to take it off. Put some new brake fluid into the jar or some oil as i used, this is to stop the old fluid from running out once you take the tubbing of the screw. Work through the bleed screws in this order, left back brake, right back brake, left front brake, right front brake. Place yout 8mm spaner over the bleed screw then place your tubbing over the rest of the end. Now have your assistance depress the brake pedal for the final time and hold it there. Now turn the bleed screw half a turn or so till the brake fluid starts to flow out. Your assistant will feel the brake pedal move down as they keep pressure on it, make shure they till you when the pedal is near the floor so you can retighten the screw to let them pump the pedal again, DO NOT let them take there foot of the pedal till you have tightned the screw. Keep a look out for air bubbles, once there are no air bubbles you can stop. Move on to you next wheel and do the same thing. Dont forget to put the rubber cover back onto the bleed screw then your done, and make shure you dont spill any brake fluid onto any paint. Your brakes should now feel a lot stiffer and not travel so much. If is recomended that you change your brake fluid every 2 years. To do this simply use something like a syring to suck out the old fluid from the resivore, DO NOT USE YOUR MOUTH TO SUCK IT OUT, ITS POISONOUS. Refill the reservoir with new fluid then bleed the brakes the same as above till the new fluid starts to come out. Hope this helps someone out there save a bit of cash.
  4. Bleed Brakes

    This is the last job i carried out on my car this weekend. Its rely simlpe and makes a massive differancefor some. My brake pedel was rely spongy, i only rely noticed how bad it was till i had to drive my dads yaris, which brakes are rely good. If you press your brake pedel and it travles a long way down before braking, or if your brakes feel soft or spongy, this simple fix might help. Before starting remember that brake fluid is poisonous, flamible and a rely effective PAINT STRIPPER. Here the tools youll need; A jam jar with a lid and hole in it a piece of plastic or rubber tubing which fits tightly over the bleed screw (it needs to be clear so you can see the brake fluid inside) brake fluid DOT 3 or 4 8mm spaner wire brush and clean rag and an assistant First of locate your master cylinder reservoir in your engine and make shure it is filled up to the MAX line. It will have a warning on it to only use brake fluid. Do not let the level drop below the min line when you are bleeding the brakes, if you do you will let air into the system and you will have to bleed the whole system again. Next chock the wheels just in case, you'll be under the car so better safe than sorry. Take the rubber caps of the bleed screw and with your wire brush clean the area around the screw, then give it a wipe with a clean cloth. The bleed screw is the little valve that sticks out at the back of each of your brakes. Get your assistant to sit in the car and pump the brakes a few times till there stiff, then get him/her to push a final time but to hold the pressure on the pedel till you till them to take it off. Put some new brake fluid into the jar or some oil as i used, this is to stop the old fluid from running out once you take the tubbing of the screw. Work through the bleed screws in this order, left back brake, right back brake, left front brake, right front brake. Place yout 8mm spaner over the bleed screw then place your tubbing over the rest of the end. Now have your assistance depress the brake pedal for the final time and hold it there. Now turn the bleed screw half a turn or so till the brake fluid starts to flow out. Your assistant will feel the brake pedal move down as they keep pressure on it, make shure they till you when the pedal is near the floor so you can retighten the screw to let them pump the pedal again, DO NOT let them take there foot of the pedal till you have tightned the screw. Keep a look out for air bubbles, once there are no air bubbles you can stop. Move on to you next wheel and do the same thing. Dont forget to put the rubber cover back onto the bleed screw then your done, and make shure you dont spill any brake fluid onto any paint. Your brakes should now feel a lot stiffer and not travel so much. If is recomended that you change your brake fluid every 2 years. To do this simply use something like a syring to suck out the old fluid from the resivore, DO NOT USE YOUR MOUTH TO SUCK IT OUT, ITS POISONOUS. Refill the reservoir with new fluid then bleed the brakes the same as above till the new fluid starts to come out. Hope this helps someone out there save a bit of cash.
  5. Hi I have a 97 starlet and want to put a few more speakers into the car. I was thinking of putting in a set of speakers on the pascel shelf in the back. Would this be any good and how would i go about setting them up. Im not looking for loads of bass and loads of volume, I just want it sound a bit better than it is. Also would it be worth ny time changing the two front speakers that is in it allready, or should i just leave them.
  6. well my car ant that good anyway. Shes got dints and dings all over the shop. Thats why i want the get the polisher. going to have a go at taking out some dents and get the paint shining again. Be good practice and its something i would just like to be able to do.
  7. Hi, im looking to get a good car polisher, I have loads of swirls and scraches i want to get rid of. Plus I just want a rely good polisher to play with. I have a small orbital buffer, but its just not powerful enough. Im want to get a Makita 9227cx3 polisher, but i cant find one here in Ireland anywhere. Anyone know of any other good polishers to get.
  8. Dont think you could get a scratch like that out without a polisher like the one he used. Im looking into getting a makita 9337cx3 polisher, if i can find one in Ireland. It would make the job a whole lot easyer and it would be nice just to have to.
  9. I have a small buffing machine, but it ant that powerfull. I used safe-cut on it a few months ago to clean it up, then used turtle wax colour magic. Made a nice job of it, but there are still scratches and some swirle marks, left on it. Im going to have another go at take them out some day soon. what other products could i use to take these scratches and swirls out with a burrer.
  10. Hi all, I have a 97 starlet, 1.3 litre 4E-FE engine. There is a noise coming from the engine that i can only discribe as a sort of squelching squeaking sound. I think it is comming from the power steering pump. It was only making it when i was taking of, but now i can hear it all the time. It increases in speed along with the engine revs. Has anyone ever had this sound, and is it the power steering pump. Am i ok to get a second hand pump from a brakers and put it in. And last of all is it a big job to change.
  11. Well i ant shure about the 95. Iv a 97, engine 1.3 4E-FE and it takes NGK BKR5EKB11 plugs with a 1.1 gap. I changed mine a few weeks ago but the plug the auto shop gave me where not the ones lised, and the ones in the engine where differant again. I used them anyway and changed the gap on the plugs to 1.1mm and they work jsut fine. dont know if this is any help to you
  12. Hi im in Galway im looking to get a set of cheap alloys with tires. I just need something to tied me over so i dont have to look at those steel wheels anymore. Where would be the best place to get some cheap.
  13. Two other jobs i done this weekend and putting in a new air filter which realy easy and changing the spark plugs. This is just a run though of the work i carried out and i accept no reponciblity for others. First of is the tools and parts; Ratchet set with spark plug sockets. (make shure the sockes have a rubber inside to hold the plugs as you lower them in) new spark plugs. (i dont know if your suppose to use the exact same plugs which where in the car, i simply got mine from a auto shop and asked for spark plugs for a 97 starlet) air filter from any auto shop Feeler gauge First the easy job. Pop the hood locat your filter. The air filter is in a square shaped black housing on the passanger side at the very back of the engine. The housing is sucured with 4 clips, just pull these of. The hole on the back means you cannot lift it compleatly of, if you want you can disconect the hose and clean inside the housing to, i just lifted mine enough to get the filter out. Take out the old filter and see what sort of shape its in, mine was pritty grubby with flys and leaves stuck to it. Take your new filter and put it in the same oriention which the old filter was in. Pop in your new filter and put the clips back onto the housing and your all set. The next job i done was replace the spark plugs, there suppose to be replaced every two years but i dont know the last time they where changed in this car. Give the area around the plugs a wipe down first, just in case any crap falls into the holes. On the 1.3lt 97 starlet the spark plugs are in a ling on top of the engine. Only change one spark plug at a time, this way you elininate the risk of putting the wrong plug into the wrong hole. To take the plugs of, grab the rubber plug (never pull the wire), and half twist the plug while pulling straight up. Some of mine were pritty tight so i had to give them a rely good pull. Give to area around the hole a blast of compressed air if you have some, other wise just cover the hole and blow around the edges. Take a good look at the condition of your plugs, there colour can give you a good indicatoin of the conditoin of the engine. If the end of the plug where the spark is made is still white around the porslin, then this might indicate the air fuel mix is to weak. If the end is realy black soot, then this is a good indiction that the mix is to rich. If the end is sticky, oily and black then this means the engine is rely worn. If the end is a light brown or tane colour, then all is good. Mine looks a bit brown just. You may need to cheack the clearance on the spark plug, the distance from the two electrods. The corolla has the same engine a the starlet so i went by the corolla haynes manual, it said to use a clearance of 1.1mm so thats what i set mine to. If the gap is to small them just bent the element back a bit till its right. Also the spark plugs that where in the car where differant to the to ones that haynes stated for the corolla, so i just when by what i was given by the auto shop man. To put the new plugs in you want to make shure you dont cross the threads, other wise you would damage the threads on the engine which would be very bad. What you can do is put them in with a pick of hose pipe or soft ducktile tubing, one that just fits the back of the spark plugs in and holds them slightly. The way when you put them in, if they cross threads they will simply slip in the tubbing. What i did was use the rubber holder in the spark plug socket, i put the plug in only to the rubber and not the nut part, then lowered them in a screwed them in. If they crossed threads they slipped on the rubber, when they screwed in i pushed the socket down the rest of the way to tighten them. Thighten the plugs to 18N/M and push the lead back down onto the new plug. Move onto the next plug and do the some thing for the rest. Start your engine and thats you.
  14. This is the last job i carried out on my car this weekend. Its rely simlpe and makes a massive differancefor some. My brake pedel was rely spongy, i only rely noticed how bad it was till i had to drive my dads yaris, which brakes are rely good. If you press your brake pedel and it travles a long way down before braking, or if your brakes feel soft or spongy, this simple fix might help. Before starting remember that brake fluid is poisonous, flamible and a rely effective PAINT STRIPPER. Here the tools youll need; A jam jar with a lid and hole in it a piece of plastic or rubber tubing which fits tightly over the bleed screw (it needs to be clear so you can see the brake fluid inside) brake fluid DOT 3 or 4 8mm spaner wire brush and clean rag and an assistant First of locate your master cylinder reservoir in your engine and make shure it is filled up to the MAX line. It will have a warning on it to only use brake fluid. Do not let the level drop below the min line when you are bleeding the brakes, if you do you will let air into the system and you will have to bleed the whole system again. Next chock the wheels just in case, you'll be under the car so better safe than sorry. Take the rubber caps of the bleed screw and with your wire brush clean the area around the screw, then give it a wipe with a clean cloth. The bleed screw is the little valve that sticks out at the back of each of your brakes. Get your assistant to sit in the car and pump the brakes a few times till there stiff, then get him/her to push a final time but to hold the pressure on the pedel till you till them to take it off. Put some new brake fluid into the jar or some oil as i used, this is to stop the old fluid from running out once you take the tubbing of the screw. Work through the bleed screws in this order, left back brake, right back brake, left front brake, right front brake. Place yout 8mm spaner over the bleed screw then place your tubbing over the rest of the end. Now have your assistance depress the brake pedal for the final time and hold it there. Now turn the bleed screw half a turn or so till the brake fluid starts to flow out. Your assistant will feel the brake pedal move down as they keep pressure on it, make shure they till you when the pedal is near the floor so you can retighten the screw to let them pump the pedal again, DO NOT let them take there foot of the pedal till you have tightned the screw. Keep a look out for air bubbles, once there are no air bubbles you can stop. Move on to you next wheel and do the same thing. Dont forget to put the rubber cover back onto the bleed screw then your done, and make shure you dont spill any brake fluid onto any paint. Your brakes should now feel a lot stiffer and not travel so much. If is recomended that you change your brake fluid every 2 years. To do this simply use something like a syring to suck out the old fluid from the resivore, DO NOT USE YOUR MOUTH TO SUCK IT OUT, ITS POISONOUS. Refill the reservoir with new fluid then bleed the brakes the same as above till the new fluid starts to come out. Hope this helps someone out there save a bit of cash.
  15. My car was making grinding sounds when i braked so i though the brake shoes where done, i got new ones and went to change them but the old ones where fine. I figured the drums are getting pritty worn so that what making the sound. So here is a demonstratoin on how i got my drums of and cleaned up a bit. Tools and parts; jack axil stand ratchet set torque wrench wire bruse clean rags screw drivers sorf face mallet If your changing the shoes you'll also need copper greas brake and clutch cleaner in a spray can Pliers Lossen your back wheels first while there still on the ground. Chock the front wheels so the car cannot move and release the hand brake. Then jack the car up and place on axil stands. Take the wheels of and then start work on one drum at a time, this way if you get mixed up or lost you can look at the other drum to see how things go back together. My wheels where pritty stiff so just give them a good kick to get them of, if they are till rely stiff like mine where spray some wd-40 on to face of the drum and let it work it way in for a few minutes then give it a good kick. Next you need to take the cap of that protects the hub nut. Use a small screw driver and a mallet to get it waged out, then use a bigger screw driver to wage it og. The hub nut is just sitting on and not overly tight, it has a locking bracket and pick holding in the nut in place. Unbend the pin and pull it out with some pliers. Prize out the locking bracket then unscrew the nub nut and take out the washer at the back. Place all these parts on a clean surface to keep them safe. The drum should then be able to pull of. If it is still stiff give it a cople of blows with a soft mallet. If the drum will still not come of the shoes may be holding the drum back. In this case you have to manualy retracket the shoes by turning the auto ajuster wheel inside the drum. At the back there is a rubber cover with covers a hole to let you get acess to this wheel with out taking of the drum. Using two screw drivers, use one to lift the adduster and the other to spin the wheel and loosen of the shoes. Your trying to rotate the wheel agenst the teeth, this is why you need to lift the adjuster first as this lets the wheel turn only one way, you want to turn it the other way. The picture below shows the wheel and adjuster, the blue arrow shows the hole through the back and the red shows the wheel, inbetween the red and blue arrow you can see the adjuster. Once you have it backed of, try to pull the drum of again, be carful when taking the drum of not to damage the small thrust bearing, its just sitting in so dont let it drop of the dirty ground. Now you can see your shoes and there state, like i said mine where fine so i didnt change them. I had to give the drum a good going over with the wire brush to get it cleaned up, inside and out. This got rid of some of the grinding sound but i think ill have to just change the drums some day. If you going to change your shoes take plenty of picture of them so you can be shure how they go back together. Retrackt the adjuster wheel all the way back then take of the two holding springs on the face of each shoe, you should be able to pull out the shoes then bu tbe carful of that big tention bar. I didnt take mine of so you may need to look up exactly how to take the shoes of. I gave the inside of mine a blast air incase there was anything inside like grit or a stone. BE CAREFUL THOUGH the dust from the shoes is extreamly dangeres if inhaled to put on a dust mask. once you have your shoes back on, put the drum on and put all the hub nut parts back in, dont over tighten the nut as it will restrict the wheel from turning. Make shure you put the nut locking plate and pin back on. Now you have to turn the adjuster wheel again to get the shoes nice and close to the drum again, other wise there will be a lot of play in your hand brake and foot brake. spin wheel and start to turn the wheel with a screw driver through the same hole in the back of the drum. once you hear the shoes start to rub of the drum as you rotate the wheel, your all set. do the same for the other wheel. Once finished tightne the wheel bolts to 103 N/M. Remember that your working with the braking sysetm so becareful and if your unshure about it get a mechanic to fix it. This is just a brief demintration and not a diffinitive guide, i accept no repociblity for others work.