AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Registered Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

167 Excellent

About craggle

  • Rank
    Top Rank Poster!
  • Birthday 03/07/1977

Contact Methods

  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model
  • Toyota Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration

Recent Profile Visitors

4,575 profile views
  1. I change my wheels each year for winter tyres. I have the winter tyres on the original Toyota wheels and have 17" OZ Racing wheels with the summer tyres on them. I always mark the tyres as they come off with an F or an R so I know where to fit them next time. The tyres on the front of the car this year will be on the back next year. This evens out the wear and makes them the same time so when they need replacing they all will be replaced. I can only move my tyres front to back though as they are all directional tread pattern so can't swap them side to side. I can't see how rotating your tyres can be bad practice if it's done regularly. Craig.
  2. Are they disc brakes on the rear? If they are I get this quite often on my car. The handbrake is left on, the brake disc gets damp in the rain and corrodes the brake pad into place on the disc surface. It can sound horrendous when first moving but normally clears in a few miles. You can help it by pulling the handbrake up slightly while moving. This will bring the pads into contact with the disc and polish off any high spots. Craig.
  3. Okay, That does sound less clutch like now. Sounds an odd problem, Fuel related maybe? Craig.
  4. If a timing belt slips the engine will stop pretty quickly sometime accompanied by expensive sounding crunching noises as pistons hit the valves. Sounds like a slipping clutch to me. It will slip when the load increases and grip again as the revs die down. Craig.
  5. Shame they don't make a two door version, 4 door rally cars never quite look right and I should think it's a bendier body than it would be in a two door version. I know roll cages go a long way to stiffening things up though. On a similar vain I always fancied a hybrid Yaris but once again, only 4 doors available in the hybrid version? Craig.
  6. The storage space under the rear seat is where I keep the rear headrests. Rear vision is improved a lot when they are removed. Craig.
  7. Hi Tomas Similar but the lock may differ depending on what car you have. In that video his motor seems to be housed in a separate part of the lock whereas it's inside the main lock on my iQ. Once you have the lock out the door you should be able to see what it's like and hopefully figure it out from there. I have to loosen the widow runner with a single screw and move it out the way but once again, that will depend on the car in question. Hopefully it won't be too complicated to remove. Craig.
  8. Hi Nicola Welcome to the wonderful world of the iQ. Hope you are enjoying the car so far. Come over to the iQ forum and post there with a picture of the car as we like to see pictures. Any problems or questions with the car, please ask and someone will sort it out. Craig.
  9. Looks a lot like my car, iQ3 I'm guessing by the wheels. Similar age too. Enjoy it, looking very good already after a good clean, really need to find the time to do the clay thing on my car again. Any plans for upgrades or keeping it fairly stock? Craig.
  10. Hi There I didn't bother disconnecting the battery, no need as you can just pull the plug out the door lock with no ill effects. The last photo is the back of the motor showing the brushes and all the black carbon in there, the shaft is there but sticking out the other end. Feel free to ask any further questions when you get started and I'll try to reply soon as I can. I've turned on notifications for this thread so I get emails when there is a post. Craig.
  11. Yep, Exactly the same, tries three times then stops unless you try it again. It knows somehow that it hasn't unlocked / locked so tries three times then gives up. The sound is softer when it fails too as you describe. The slightly more worrying thing on the iQ is that I could try to lock it, car tries three times on the faulty door to lock it, you them move the keys out the way and try the passenger door, locked, try the boot, locked, try the drivers door, open. Opening it though you'd figure would set the alarm off, Not on my car! It has an alarm siren under the bonnet but I've never heard it so not sure how you get that to work. Once I had the new motors installed the clunk when locking it or unlocking it is a really good, positive clunk so I think the motors get gradually weaker with age. Craig.
  12. There are two motors in there but I only replaced the one, bigger motor. The smaller motor operates the double lock mechanism. On my car you press the key fob button or the door handle twice to operate this one so it seems to get used less and last longer. It might be worth taking the lock out first to make sure you have a similar version to this but I ordered these. They are supplied with a longer, completely round shaft and the Toyota ones have a shorter shaft with a flat so you will need to file the flat then cut the shaft down a bit to suit the worm drive. Getting the housing open is also a bit tricky as you have to undo about 20 clips to get it apart. It sounds and looks complicated but is possible with fairly basic tools. Craig.
  13. Had a similar thing on my iQ I have the keyless ignition and door handles that sense your hand to unlock the door. As you say, it tried three times making the correct noises but remains locked. I kind of ignored it for a while leaning across from the passenger side to open the door from the inside handle but then it started doing it on the locking as well. It got so bad in the end that I couldn't lock the door. I stripped out the lock mechanism from the door and pulled it apart to find it all looked fine inside but the motor that actuates the lock was very dirty and basically, worn out. A couple of new motors from ebay and it's as good as new again. Strange thing is I sorted the drivers door then only 3 weeks later the passenger door started doing exactly the same thing! Good thing I bought two motors. If you try this you may have to swap over the wires in the plug that feed the motor, My new motors span in reverse to the original ones so when you locked the car it unlocked and vise versa. Simple thing to swap over the cables in the plug though. Craig.
  14. Welcome to the iQ forum Peter I have a silver, 59 plate, 2010 model and the paint is perfect still. What do you know of the history of the car, Have you owned it from new or did you buy it used? Also is it peeling all over or just in certain areas? Craig.
  15. If the temperature light hasn't come on and I assume the Aygo doesn't have a temp gauge, It's probably working as it should. It's not at all unusual to hear the fan when the car is stationary and the fan should start, run for a few minutes then turn off again once it's cooled the coolant enough. It will start again after a few minutes more when the engine gets warmer again. The electric fan will be the only means of getting air through the radiator when the car isn't moving so if it's starting, it's doing it's job. Craig.