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About MikeSh

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  • First Name Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Toyota Model Yaris
  • Toyota Year 2008
  • UK/Ireland Location Cheshire

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  1. I won't be using my car for at least six weeks.

    Re replacing the starting power: If it starts within a couple of seconds it will probably replace that within a minute if not 30 seconds. If it has to crank longer then it will obviously take longer. However, with modern cars there are usually permanently live systems such as the remote locking system that slowly drain the battery, as well as the natural loss a battery has over time (and generally gets worse as the battery ages). It needs running longer to replace that as well as the start charge.
  2. I won't be using my car for at least six weeks.

    I'd run it for 10 minutes or until warmed up (whichever is longer) once or twice a week, and move it a bit (once down and up the drive) once a fortnight. Should be plenty - lots of cars are left at airports for a couple of weeks without a problem. If your battery is getting near end of life this may even show it up, which will be better than doing it when you really need the car to work. (If you really want to test that leave it 2 weeks before trying to start it )
  3. yaris speaker upgrade help!

    Providing you can do decent wire connections the physical wiring isn't hard. Finding out which wires go where can be interesting. As mentioned above, finding a suitable 12V supply for an amp can be interesting. As with almost any job like this you will find that to get the access to do the work and run the wires from A to B & C you have to remove almost every piece of trim inside the car and half the dashboard . (And when you've got it all back together you'll have created an annoying creak or rattle somewhere ) That is probably the bleakest picture - it might not be that hard, but I always begin a job like this first thing in the morning on the assumption it'll take all day. If you haven't any experience of getting trim out of cars then be prepared to break a few mounting tabs in the process.
  4. yaris speaker upgrade help!

    What he says really ^^^ You don't say what shortcomings you feel the current setup has - audio is very personal, especially in a small car where the background noise levels are quite intrusive (unless you spend a lot of time listening while parked). Getting wiring into doors can be a pain and usually the mounting arrangements for the speakers don't allow a good seal round the rim to provide a good baffle (which you need for a reasonable bass). So if bass is your bugbear fitting door speakers may not help much without a lot of extra work. On our somewhat newer Yaris and an Aygo I had a couple of years back I fitted decent (Pioneer) active subwoofer under the driver's seat. This gives the sound the body it's lacking, though the sound from the stock speakers still isn't great, but even fitting that isn't a trivial task as you have to find a high current feed for the unit - tapping into the normal headunit feed will usually produce a poor result ... unless you keep the volume very low
  5. spare wheel

    Why not just get a spacesaver? Unless you live in an area strewn with sharp debris chances are you'll never need a spare anyway. My cars have about 70,000 miles between them and both spacesaver spares are unused. The last time I can remember actually having a puncture or needing a repair was about 20 years ago (and I've done many tens of thousands of miles since then). And thinking about it now, when you consider the number of cars travelling around I don't see many cars at the side of the road with flats these days. I'd think the slight inconvenience of a spacesaver (50 mph usually) for a while on rare occasions is unlikely to offset the time, effort and downsides of getting a full size tyre in the boot.
  6. Changing tyres and headlights

    OK, mine was poorly worded. I think you might lose up to 3.5 mpg. I still doubt it would be that much and any difference would be hard to see for sure in the general variations of mpg you get over time. If you were really concerned about mpg then it would be more sensible to use a larger diameter wheel but still use a 175 tyre (ensuring the wheel width is suitable). However, if you were spending several hundred ££ fitting larger wheels just to look good I rather doubt a few mpg is going to matter you ...
  7. Changing tyres and headlights

    175 to 195 is a 20mm wider tyre, so there will be a little extra drag, but I'd be surprised if you'd lose 7 mpg. Mind you, those official figures look about double what you'd likely get, so 3.5 mpg loss might not be a silly number to assume.
  8. Problem after a new clutch is installed

    There were generally three engine options - 1.0 petrol, 1.33 petrol or 1.4 diesel. What do you fill the tank with?
  9. Yaris Seat bolt size ??

    OK, I'm an old git But seriously, don't try and measure adjacent peaks as you will be looking at differences between thread types of fractions of a mm. Instead count a block of as many peaks as you can (at least 10, 20 or more if possible) then measure across the whole block and divide by the number of peaks in it to get the pitch. For example, I count off a block of 20 peaks, measure the block as being 14mm long, 14 / 20 = 0.7mm pitch.
  10. Head gasket skimmed

    I think she is saying that there was a problem with the head/gasket and she has had it skimmed to sort it out. I don't think it has failed a second time soon after, but perhaps the OP would confirm the exact course of events to clarify.
  11. Head gasket skimmed

    You don't give us a full history but if we assume that the heater was leaking then it is likely that at some point the water level fell to a critical level which has resulted in the head/gasket being damaged. On that basis then, provided whoever has done the repairs has acted competently, there is no reason to expect it to fail again. These D4Ds are pretty bullet-proof on the whole and having presumably thrown a lot of dosh at it you might as well get something back rather than trading it and starting the process of discovery all over again (unless you are trading to a new car) (and even then ... )
  12. Yaris Seat bolt size ??

    I don't know about the threads but bolts for seats are often hi-tensile steel (often these have a matt black finish), so make sure you use the correct type. It is possible that hi-tensile might use the fine thread as (I'd think) they would be stronger. Are all the bolts really too mangled to even check what the thread pitch is? (You just need to count the number of threads in an inch and then Google metric thread sizes to find out which type it is.)
  13. Things I should be wary of

    The bare metal thing is standard for static discharge, usually when going inside a computer. I doubt many people do it when filling up - and there isn't usually much bare metal around to touch anyway. The 500V warning is relevant and specific to hybrids and electrics. I'm sure it is normally well out of reach in normal use but if you work on the car and remove covers you might expose a live part. As with working on electrical items at home you need to take appropriate measures to work safely or leave it someone else who does know how to do it (or that you don't care about )
  14. Scratched windscreen

    'Claying' can produce good results on glass I believe, though obviously depends on the depth of scratch. I've not used it but "Bilt Hamber autoclay regular" has been recommended and I think Halfords stocks it. (It's normallyused for polishing paintwork.)
  15. Hybrid Dashboard Camera

    That isn't strictly true. Usually they are wired to be powered from the ignition but can be wired to acircuit that is live all the time (deliberately or accidentally). Some types are specifically designed to be wired permanently on,so they can capture incidents when the vehicle is unattended. Presumably they have a fairly low current draw in this state but over several days or weeks of the car not being run would present a risk, especially added to other car standby systems like alarms and remote locking.