Toyota Owners Club - Toyota Forum Messages

Review Your Toyota

Help others when it comes to buying a car like yours, review your Toyota now

AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


MikeSh

Registered Member
  • Content count

    529
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

40 Excellent

About MikeSh

  • Rank
    Guru Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Toyota Model Yaris
  • Toyota Year 2008
  • UK/Ireland Location Cheshire

Recent Profile Visitors

4,971 profile views
  1. Things I should be wary of

    The bare metal thing is standard for static discharge, usually when going inside a computer. I doubt many people do it when filling up - and there isn't usually much bare metal around to touch anyway. The 500V warning is relevant and specific to hybrids and electrics. I'm sure it is normally well out of reach in normal use but if you work on the car and remove covers you might expose a live part. As with working on electrical items at home you need to take appropriate measures to work safely or leave it someone else who does know how to do it (or that you don't care about )
  2. Scratched windscreen

    'Claying' can produce good results on glass I believe, though obviously depends on the depth of scratch. I've not used it but "Bilt Hamber autoclay regular" has been recommended and I think Halfords stocks it. (It's normallyused for polishing paintwork.)
  3. Hybrid Dashboard Camera

    That isn't strictly true. Usually they are wired to be powered from the ignition but can be wired to acircuit that is live all the time (deliberately or accidentally). Some types are specifically designed to be wired permanently on,so they can capture incidents when the vehicle is unattended. Presumably they have a fairly low current draw in this state but over several days or weeks of the car not being run would present a risk, especially added to other car standby systems like alarms and remote locking.
  4. Yaris DPF check

    I'd seriously consider that. It definitely won't have a DPF. Depends to an extenton whether you'll be doing a lot of motorway work, though in fact our 58 has been hacked up and down the M6 for many miles at speed and hasn't felt stressed.
  5. Yaris DPF check

    That surprises me. I'd thought that the facelift that took it from 5 to 6 gears was when the DPF was introduced. There must me a relative handful of cars with 6 speed but no DPF. (Or maybe a handful of late 5 speeds with DPF.) As mentioned in another thread (in fact quite a lot around the web in general) the number of airbags involved is many millions across almost all the major carmakers. The risk isn't very high and with the rate that new bags are becoming available it will be years before all cars are done. Priority is being given (generally) to the oldest and those in high humidity zones. I've had notification that both our cars (1 Toyota and 1 Ford) are both subjects but basically not to hold my breath for it
  6. MMT Transmission Light: Gear stuck in N

    Hmm. That mileage around town .... I'd think the clutch must be nearing the empty mark. It's obviously not a cheap thing but if you plan to keep the car for a while it's almost certain to need doing sooner or later, so it's an investment I'd consider making now anyway. While it's in pieces you can get the actuators and linkage relubed as they seem to be a problem when they get dry/sticky.
  7. 2005 Yaris Key Advice

    If it's from Timpsons or the like it will probably be a 'clone' where the (programmable) transponder is given the same code as the current key. Should just work as the car doesn't know which one it is. If it is a type with a precoded (fixed) transponder it will need adding to the car system by a capableauto-electrician (or car thief ).
  8. Unless you plan to disconnect your current sidelights you don't need to dim the DRLs as they can/should be off when the side/head lights are on. Likewise the colour issue wouldnot be important as DRL and heads wouldn't/shouldn't be on at the same time. If you do plan to use the DRLs as sidelights then they need tobe dimmed regardless of bulb type or you will cause dazzle. Sidelights are typically 5W, filament DRLs would probably be 21W. (LED DRLs are probably nearer 30-40W equivalent - they are very bright.)
  9. MMT Transmission Light: Gear stuck in N

    Before all the comments start about how bad the MMT is, yes, there are a few threads on here about this sort of problem, so have a search (if no search fiend can post up links). Also fuller info would be helpful. How many miles has the car done and what sort of use overall (mainly town, motorway)? " a considerable amount of trips throughout the day" sounds like a lot of short ones - in traffic? If the car has seen a high mileage and/or a lot of stop-start it may simply be the clutch needs replacing.
  10. I keep stalling my parents' yaris

    As alan333 says, it's a balance. What you have been doing is probably OK with diesel or big petrol engines but on small petrol engines I'd tend to get the revs up a bit before the clutch bites. Getting it a bit wrong and racing the engine momentarily is a lot easier and quicker to fix than stalling it ... not to mention less embarrassing
  11. Brand new belt is still squealing

    Water pump could be a candidate as well.
  12. Yaris D4D cuts to safe "get home" mode

    Car breaker's is the obvious place to try.
  13. Warning light identification and meaning

    Does that not also act as a handbrake warning light?
  14. I have a 58 plate D4D MMT. There has been some discussion on other threads indicating that one cause of problems with these may be due to the lubricant in the actuators getting old and the resulting stiff operation then messing up the coordination, etc. There was a description by one user on squirting lube into these (or possibly just the clutch actuator) but I think this was on a petrol version. With a view to doing some pre-emptive oiling (it's over 7 years old and at 47,000m)I had a look under the bonnet of my diesel the other day and the space above the gearbox is well stuffed with the battery, cabling and intake filter, ducting, etc. No obvious way to get to the actuators without what looks like some significantdismantling. I can probably do it, but I suspect that as I'm not sure exactly where the units are and how they are orientated that by the time I get to them it will turn outI'll have removed quite a lot of stuff that need not have been touched. So, the question I have is: Has anyone done this on a D4Dspecifically?If so can you tell me what needs removing (and maybe how) to get at the actuators for the gears and clutch? If you've done it on a petrol one and have pictures or can describe the location/orientation of the actuators (assuming the gearbox shell, etc. is the same) then that might be some help.
  15. Electrical Problem In Yaris 2008 Sedan

    Clearly the voltage all over is getting very low. As the battery is new we can probably eliminate that, so the volts are presumably being dragged down by a connected item. Yes, itmay be the alternator. It could also be something else that is putting a massive drain on the system, though I'd have expected most of those would blow afuse. In the UK getting an alternator reconditioned or swapped for a recon unit is relatively easy and not horrendously expensive, but you appear to be non-UK so you'll have to make local enquiries.