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QuantumFireball

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QuantumFireball last won the day on February 13

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About QuantumFireball

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    Club Member

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  • First Name
    Aaron

Profile Information

  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model
    Prius Plug-in
  • Toyota Year
    2012
  • Location
    Cork
  1. I haven't noticed any difference with fuel economy, but with the Plug-in it varies wildly anyway depending on what kind of driving I'm doing. I also fixed my rear brakes (sticking caliper slide pins, one seized) a few months before the service, which led to a notable improvement in EV range (got at least half a mile extra). Sometimes the ICE seems a bit jerky/noisy on a cold start, but I don't know how much different it is compared to with the previous oil (had the car less than a year before the service). I'll try 0W20 again next service. I guess that's why the accepted oil grades stated in the European manual are much more varied than in the US? I recall seeing a screenshot of the US manual on PriusChat somewhere and it was much stricter.
  2. My Prius Plug-in was filled with 5W30 from a local dealer - it seems fairly common in Ireland for them to use it on the newer hybrids instead of the recommended 0W20. Anyone know if it really makes much difference? Are they just cheapskates? I'll probably service it myself next year, as the hybrid system warranty will be up by then anyway.
  3. The SOC does not necessarily reflect loss in capacity. You could for example (in extreme case) lose 50% capacity of the battery, but still charge to 100% SOC - it's just this 100% is not the same as 100% when new. Of course with a hybrid/EV it will never let you charge to 100%. On the first gen Prius Plug-in, the usable SOC for EV mode operation is around 23%-85% (i.e. "full" EV charge on the MFD is only 85% SOC), below that it operates as a normal Prius but won't go below around 18-20% (I forget exactly). Not letting the SOC go too high or too low helps a lot with durability. BEVs do similar - the actual usable capacity of a 30 kWh Nissan Leaf for example is only around 28 kWh. Also, having hundreds of cells in a hybrid/EV battery compared to <10 in typical consumer electronics (phone, laptop, etc.) makes a massive difference in adding redundancy and durability.
  4. Maybe with crappy poorly-managed 3-6 cell batteries in laptops, not in cars ;) My Prius Plug-in has certainly not lost 80% capacity after four years. It's probably more like 5-10%. Early 2011 Leafs can be around 25% loss after 6 years, and the capacity loss on the much more durable 2nd generation Leaf batteries (introduced in 2013) has been negligible so far.
  5. In automatics with traditional linear selectors, putting it in park while in traffic is discouraged as it can increase wear (not sure with what exactly) and you have to go through R to get to P so your reverse lights flash, and you look like crazy person. The latter doesn't happen with the Prius, but I'm not sure about potential wear. If I'm stuck in traffic for any length I'm more likely to use N+parking brake, but I'm not sure if that's any better either (I know there are risks with very low SOC by doing this).
  6. That does happen, but I'm talking about a situation when you're going downhill with zero throttle. Once the SOC is at the high state it should just stop generation and use engine braking - I find it hard to believe there is anywhere for electric energy to be used in this state where there's enough momentum (assuming you're trying to slow down). Maybe after the descent it will try using more battery, but not during. It's hard for me to replicate with the Plug-in, and maybe the 2nd gen is different anyway. MG1 is nearly always spinning when the ICE is running, sometimes backwards :) But the wheels are primarily rotating the ICE in this situation.
  7. There are various explanations of how engine braking works in the Prius online, including what it does in this situation of extended downhill driving. I can't find anything official, but this describes the main modes of operation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hybrid_Synergy_Drive But it makes no sense for it to waste energy from the battery anyway - it would be inefficient and unnecessary. Once the SOC gets to a certain high level it will just stop regeneration from MG2 and use the ICE instead to create resistance - it may be wasting kinetic energy to slow down the car, but no electric energy is being used from the traction battery. The momentum of the car is turning the ICE. Readouts from an OBD-II scanner during this mode will tell you what's really going on.
  8. Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but this is not a mode of operation that happens with the Prius. MG1 will only use electric power to start the ICE, or MG1 will be driven by the ICE to generate power - it will never "burn electricity". There is no such mode where it will waste energy from the battery. If you select B mode, or if you're going downhill when the traction battery reaches a high state of charge, the transmission will apply engine braking using the ICE - essentially just like engine braking with any normal ICE car. Due to the way the transmission works, MG1 and MG2 are always going to be rotating in some fashion anyway.
  9. It's just engine braking - there is no consumption of fuel (no spark), you're just using the resistance of the ICE to slow the car down. It will do this if the battery is fully charged and you're not applying any throttle, as it can't do any regen in this state. As to why it doesn't stop afterwards, I don't know. Maybe you're not waiting long enough for it to go back into its normal state? Or is it automatically shifting into B mode or something weird?
  10. The Prius C is sold as the Aqua in Japan, and was a best-seller there for a few years. It's a bit bigger than the Yaris, and competes directly with the Honda Fit/Jazz and Nissan Note over there. It does seem to have the same powertrain as the Yaris Hybrid, which is a slightly updated beltless version of the 1NZ-FXE from the 2nd gen Prius. The Yaris Hybrid seems to be a Europe-only, possibly because it's built in France (not sure)?
  11. The clock on the Gen 3 is integrated into the MFD, it's not a separate device.
  12. Yes, mine's not great - I don't know how quickly it goes off but I've had to adjust it several times in the year I've had the car.
  13. The OBDLink LX is Bluetooth. There is only a wifi version of the MX, which is more expensive again. I got a Belkin dash/windscreen mount from Halfords, and mounted it on the quarter light in the A-pillar in my Prius. Seems OK, a bit wobbly when going over rough roads.
  14. Yeah I use an OBDLink LX, which is what they recommend (I already had one). Not the cheapest scanner by any means but it's reliable, has a 3 year warranty, and is faster than the cheap stuff. Still hesitant to leave it plugged in though...
  15. There is some documentation here: http://hybridassistant.blogspot.ie/p/manual.html I tried it on a longer journey yesterday, but unfortunately the battery went on my phone right at the end of my journey and it failed to save the data :( Will have to try it again...