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QuantumFireball last won the day on February 13

QuantumFireball had the most liked content!

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About QuantumFireball

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    Prius Plug-in
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  1. Is there much point in such a lock on a modern car? They're probably just going to steal the keys if they want to take the car anyway.
  2. The Japanese spec Prius PHV is available with a CHAdeMO port as an extra, if anyone is wondering what that blank space is for.
  3. This is also what I've experienced. I've driven 60 miles after leaving the range going to 0, and there were still a few litres left in the tank. It's ridiculously overly cautious.
  4. Putting into B would at least help it slow down, but not dramatically - assuming your foot is off the accelerator. N would be worse than D as it disables regenerative braking. You'd need to get to the brake pedal really - at least it's bigger than in a manual car.
  5. Don't know about in Toyota/Lexus implementations, but those automatic parking brakes often cause trouble in other cars. You don't really need the parking brake every time you put it into P, so it may cause unnecessary wear. I'm sure it's also a pain if you ever experience a flat 12V battery and need to get towed. The Hill Assist function in my Prius works fine when I need it. I assume it's using the service brakes.
  6. I find Spritmonitor good as well, a lot more European cars there: 5.05 l/100km (based on 670 owners) = 56 MPG (imperial) So I think you're doing above average, but it varies greatly depending on driving habits.
  7. MG1 is designed to run between +/-10k RPM, so it's well within normal operating specs. It's not an ICE, so motor speeds are not really comparable. Motors in Dyson vacuum cleaners run at over 100k RPM, for example. Essentially you don't need to worry about it. The ICE is much more likely to fail than the MGs/transmission, e.g. head gasket failures, which are not unheard of with the Prius - but still very rare. It's as capable as any other ICE car for long journeys, maybe even more so - I've done trips of over 250 miles, and would have no concerns driving the thing across Europe. They are extremely popular in Mongolia, a country with much more arduous conditions than ours (only about 10% paved roads?), and have proven to be very reliable. The 3rd gen is a marked improvement regarding performance and refinement for motorway driving though, so if that is the majority of your driving I would recommend that.
  8. The simulation probably doesn't take into account external factors like rolling resistance, wind resistance, etc. IIRC my 3rd gen Prius stays around 1800-2000 RPM on a flat road at 120 km/h (75 MPH). I can barely hear the engine at all. As others have said, road noise is the bigger issue at these speeds. I believe the previous generation would be running at higher revs for similar speeds, but I have no personal experience.
  9. One thing about the cheaper devices is that they're usually quite slow (in terms of how frequently they can retrieve data from the ECU) - so if you want to get live data readouts like with Hybrid Assistant or Torque then they may not be up to the job. But if you just want to check/clear error codes or change settings, they're probably fine.
  10. I have an OBDLink LX - not the cheapest out there but good quality, and works well with Torque, Hybrid Assistant and other apps on my Android phone. I'm not sure if Techstream supports Bluetooth scanners, if you're planning on using it with that.
  11. I'd imagine it's not much more than a physical inspection and plugging in their Techstream laptop into the OBD-II port. You can get all the cell voltages, etc. through that; and I think there's some test procedure similar to this:
  12. The speedometer over-reads like crazy in my experience, e.g.: 56 km/h indicated = 50 km/h real 109 = 100 130 = 120 It's definitely the same with miles :) Might be different with 17" wheels (I have 15"). You can check with the satnav, as the speed limit indicator will turn red when you're over the real speed. Other GPS devices or an OBD-II scanner will also be able to give you a more accurate speed. The low fuel warning is also very pessimistic. When it starts flashing/beeping I find there's still about 9 litres left in the tank (it is 45 total). I think it's similar in other Toyotas though. As others have said, the reverse beeping can be turned off (well, it will still beep once when you select R) by a dealer or any other OBD-II scanner with Torque or similar software. With the HUD, I find on sunny days when wearing polarising sunglass I need to manually set it to the maximum brightness, which you can do by pressing and holding the brightness "up" button.
  13. I'm sure it's a lot more efficient at recovering energy than the previous Plug-in, but it may be more the EV range estimation adjusting to your driving rather than gaining that much energy from regeneration. It's often referred to as a "guess-o-meter" (especially with the Leaf) as it's not always that accurate at estimating your range, and is mostly based on previous journeys. The range you're getting still sounds very good though - I wasn't expecting more than 40 miles in real world driving. I believe the on-board charger is capable of 3.3 kW (16A @ 230V) maximum, so you won't benefit from a 32A charger (but probably good idea for a new home installation for future proofing).
  14. I haven't noticed any difference with fuel economy, but with the Plug-in it varies wildly anyway depending on what kind of driving I'm doing. I also fixed my rear brakes (sticking caliper slide pins, one seized) a few months before the service, which led to a notable improvement in EV range (got at least half a mile extra). Sometimes the ICE seems a bit jerky/noisy on a cold start, but I don't know how much different it is compared to with the previous oil (had the car less than a year before the service). I'll try 0W20 again next service. I guess that's why the accepted oil grades stated in the European manual are much more varied than in the US? I recall seeing a screenshot of the US manual on PriusChat somewhere and it was much stricter.
  15. My Prius Plug-in was filled with 5W30 from a local dealer - it seems fairly common in Ireland for them to use it on the newer hybrids instead of the recommended 0W20. Anyone know if it really makes much difference? Are they just cheapskates? I'll probably service it myself next year, as the hybrid system warranty will be up by then anyway.