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Leeky

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About Leeky

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    Ich liebe deutschland!
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    Toyota Celica GT-Four

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  1. We have had hundreds of people coming onto TOC asking about mk4 Supra's. So here is a rundown on the in's and out's of choosing one, looking at one and maintaining one. Before we start lets just clear up that the car only came as non turbo and twin turbo. Any supra which is single turbo must have been converted since. So if i reffer to 'turbo' i mean twin turbo and not a single turbo version. We will not be going into details on single turbo conversions. So first off lets have a look at the Models and the Specs. Between 1993-1996 the Supra mk4 (JZA80) was sold here in the UK. It was available in Twin Turbo guise only and came with 326bhp as standard. The car was available with either a 6 Speed Manual Transmission or 4 Speed Automatic with Manual Override. Straight out of the showroom the car was capable of around 180mph but was electronicly restricted to 155mph. Leather was standard, as was traction control, electric windows, electric/heated mirrors, ABS, Power Steering, Airbags Etc - Typical Equipment for a Luxury GT Cruiser. Approx only 600 UK Supra's were made and the colours were Red, Dark Blue, White, Black and Silver. Red, Blue came with Beige Leather interior and the others came with a Black one. Between 1993-2002 the JZA80 was sold in japan and the majority of Supra's you find on the roads today are Grey Imports. Just like the UK car it was available with the 6 speed manual or 4 speed auto, but also there was a 5 Speed manual which was only available on the Non Turbo variant of the car - but we will come back to that one in a minute. So the import Turbo comes in 3 models - RZ - Basic Turbo, equipement is pretty random on imports so best to check what the car has as the japanese got lots of optional extras etc RZ-S - Later version of above, again check the equipment. Later versions got VVTI. GZ - Top of the Range Import with Leather and the optional Aerotop removable roof. Available in AUTO ONLY. Now there is also the non turbo models. SZ - 225bhp non turbo with 5 speed manual or 4 speed auto. Like the RZ equipment could be anything. Aerotop was optional. SZ-R - Later model which had optional 6 speed gearbox as well as the two others. The JDM (Import Version) Supra was rated at 280bhp. Now i know this is 46bhp less than the UK car but in the real world when JDM Supra's are Dyno'd over here in the uk they usually produce around 300bhp. The reason for the power difference is the ceramic turbo chargers, smaller injectors and different cams compared to the UK car which generally got bigger everything and steel turbos. There are other differences between UK are JDM but those are the biggest. Because of the ceramic turbos which actually spin up faster than the heavier uk steel ones, the JDM supra has more torque and is pretty much just as fast 0-60 as the uk car which is approx 4.8secs for the manual and 5.3 for the auto. Imports are all limited to 120mph but it is simple to delimit these completely. Imports came in same colours as UK car but with a few extra which are - Royal Blue, Gunmetal Grey, Bronze Brown, Yellow, Green. There may be a few more but these are the only ones i can think of at the moment. Ok now onto Inside and Outside Easiest way to tell a UK car from an import is the Bonnet Vent, the Horns (Headlight sprayers) and the big brakes. These can be added to an import easily and i have seen it in the past so dont assume that just because a car has these things that its a UK car. Always check the car out and get proof. The UK car got 17" wheels and bigger brakes - 4 pot front and 2 pot rear. The Import also had these as an optional extra but as standard the imports all come with 2 pot fronts and 1 pot rears with smaller discs and 16" alloys. Imports sometimes dont have spoilers, was a deletable option. Imports sometimes have whats called the Aerokit - dont confuse this with the removable roof. The Aerokit is a set of side skirts and rear spats simply for styling only. This can be fitted to UK cars and i had them fitted to both my UK car and my import. But you cannot buy them brand new from Toyota as they stopped making them years ago. You will need to track down a used set. From the back the UK car has different rear clusters as it has a fog light built in. UK cars have the clear reverse lights second along from the centre, imports the clear reverse lights are in the centre of the boot. Imports have plastic headlights, uk cars have glass ones. These are interchangable. UK cars got the Active Spoiler (electronic spoiler that drops down under the nose of the car at high speed) as standard, was optional on imports. Imports got electric folding door mirrors, not available on UK cars but im sure could be retrofitted. Under the Bonnet Right from here on it gets technical guys, so pay attention. UK Supra Engine is the same as a JDM engine except for the following - Steel Turbo internals vs jdm ceramic 550cc Injectors vs jdm 440cc Different duration cams - 233deg duration & 8.25mm lift vs jdm 224deg duration & 7.8mm EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation - Fitted on all UK cars to bring emissions down, pumps hot gases back into engine - bad bad bad and once again bad. Better to remove this system from your UK car. Did it to mine. Bigger downpipe and cats, these are not interchangable between uk and jdm. Additional gearbox oil cooler. Different ECU Better Traction Control Auto Vs Manual Lets be honest here - Manual will give you all the control and will ultimatly be more fun. Auto is just as good a box but is better for commuting to and from work with the minimum of fuss. Manual is a little hard and agricultural and the auto is smooth and silky but at the end of the day they are pretty much the same 0-60 and top speed. Manual UK cars are very hard to get hold of in good condition. Aerotop Only available in RHD Auto Turbo or RHD Auto Non Turbo. In the US LHD cars had the option of manual aerotops. With the roof out it makes the chassis bendy and not much good for driving hard. With the roof in they drive identically to a normal car. Modifying First thing is first, get a better exhaust system - standard ones is rubbish. HKS Super Dragger and Blitz Nur Spec R are the most common. I personally went for the Tanabe Super Racing Medallion because the pipe was 3.5" vs the others which are about 3" also sounded meaty and cost less. Once you have the exhaust done then move onto removing one or both of the catalitic convertors. I went for the Megan Racing one as it was only £60 and was also 3.5" which matched the exhaust. Be aware that removing the cats means that the car will not pass its MOT so you will need to put them back in for the MOT and then remove them again. The other option is to remove only one and use a smaller downpipe. The car will still pass the MOT on one cat and you will be able to run higher boost. Not as much obviously as removing both cats but its a good trade off. This is the route i am taking with my Aristo (same engine as the supra). Note - The JDM supras will hit fuel cut (engine safety feature) with no cats in as the wastegates aren't that good. A 2.5" restrictor plate can be fitted to combat this. Ok so now we have a supra with a performance exhaust and one or no cats. So lets improve breathing, this can be done via either a performance panel filter from TRD/BLITZ/APEXI/HKS etc or via an induction kit from the same kind of makes. The standard airbox can flow up to 500bhp so unless you are going to go above this an induction kit is a waste of time. Next you need to fit a Fuel Cut Defender - Thor's TRL FCD is by far the best at around £60. This device overrides the ECU's max safe boost limit so you can push up the power. Look into this yourself and do this only at YOUR OWN RISK as done incorrectly it could destroy your engine. Fit a boost controller, either mechanical or electronic. Mechanicals are cheaper. Electronic ones are safer and overall better. This is the basics and from here on out you'd better speak to a tuning company to plot out the route you are going to take to bigger power. Envy Performance, Fensport, Prolex, Whiftbits, TDI are amoung the best. There is another company which has a big presence on the mk4 websites who i shall not name but i would advise you to ONLY go to these 5 places above as the place i have not mentioned is run by cowboys. You know who you are! Tyres I'd recommend either Goodyear Eagle F1's or Toyo Proxies - dont go for cheap tyres on a supra or the supra will kill you plain and simple Insurance Because most Supra's are over 10years old they can be insured as Classic/Cherished Cars which costs a lot less. Also try Sky Insurance who will give you a discount if you are a club member. I personally go with Elephant myself as they have always been the cheapest for me. Looking at one Firstly, dont be put off by high mileage. As long as they are properly maintained the 2JZ engine will last forever. Check for accident damage, knocking sounds from suspension/engine. Check for uneven tyre wear. Tyre wear on the inside is normal for a supra but if its on the outside then something is up. Get to start the car up from cold and check for smoke. If you see any then the valve stem seals are worn but this is common and to be honest something you dont really have to worry about as long as the smoke is only there for a short time when cold. When normal temp there should be no smoke. Take the car out for a spin, make sure the car doesnt pull to one side and also give it a boot and check in the mirror for smoke. If you see any the turbos may be on their way out. First turbo comes on boost from about 1500rpm and second if i can remember correctly about 4000rpm. Listen for a loud whining sound, if you hear it the 2nd turbo may be dead/dying. All you should hear is the faint whistling of the turbos. Boost should be smooth and progressive. Slam on the brakes at about 60mph and make sure it doesnt pull to one side. Also lightly press them at 60mph and check for juddering - if this happens the discs are most likely warped and need changing. Check oil levels and look under the rad cap and oil cap for a creamy mayonnaise type stuff. If you see this then the car may have a dodgy headgasket but its not really heard of on the mk4 - more a mk3 thing. Generally make sure its straight and neat and goes as it should. Check the engine light comes on and goes out, this is orange and looks like a gearbox/engine. As far as maintaining one is concerned you'd be best doing an oil/filter change every 3k miles. Tyres last between 6-12k. Brake pads approx 6k and discs 80k. If anyone has any other information they would like to add to this thread then please feel free but please keep it factual
  2. I posted this on the Toyota Blog but they havent approved it as it proves how much of a rip off the TRD GT86 is. So on top of being a rip off it goes to show that Toyota havent even got the balls to let there be freedom of speech on their blogs. So here is my post in all its glory now from one very peed off ex Toyota Owner. I hope that this information is useful to people who are considering the TRD GT86. Dont get me wrong, i want to see Toyota and the GT86 do well. But the fact that they BLOCKED my post on their blog has really got my back up now.
  3. Yeah you can remap an aftermarket ecu... but not the toyota one.
  4. Doesnt the drivers seat go all the way back until it touches the rear seats? I believe mine does.... You could remove the seat, re-drill the mounting holes and then bolt it back in further back. Or make some small adaptors to relocate the seat. Nothing off the shelf to do this job as far as i know.
  5. Now on Ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320986220423
  6. Hey guys, Almost two years with this car but now i need to pass the GT4 on. http://www.pistonhea...les/4239935.htm More pictures here - http://s349.photobuc...ealleeky/ST205/ If anyone is interested or knows anyone in the market for something like this then please drop me a line :) Cheers
  7. I'll eat my hat if Toyota make a new Celica. The Supra name carrys so much "Hype" from the last shape and the image that The Fast and The Furious gave it... would be foolish not to bring back the Supra. ... but the Celica......most people think of the 1.8 Gen7 when they hear the word Celica and dont think of the RWD/4WD 2.0 turbo models :( Time to let the Celica die peacefully.
  8. You cant really "drift" in a standard GT86... it doesnt have enough power. I found you can get the back end out easily with a clutch kick and feathering the throttle... but you cant keep the back end out long enough to consider it being a proper full on drift :(
  9. Nothing like the Celica. It doesnt feel anywhere near as big or heavy. The GT86 is the spiritual successor to the Corolla AE86 so a smaller model than the Celica. Toyota are working on a new sports car with BMW which could be similar in size to the Celica but most likely it'll end up being a new Supra.
  10. Standard ST205 ecu cannot but re-mapped, only piggybacked with something like a Unichip. There are some companies like Mines, Blitz, Avance and C-One who have fitted piggyback chips into standard ECU's and they give you roughly 20-30bhp depending on supporting mods. I've just sold a Blitz Access ECU for the ST205 for £400 which is the going rate of any aftermarket ECU for these cars. There is an Advance ECU for sale on ebay but i dont know how good these are. The blitz/c-one ecu's are considered the best.
  11. You cant remap Toyota ECU's (with the exception of the GT86 which apparently can be). If you run a different ECU it wont make any changes to your servicing intervals.
  12. I've decided to sell my faff so this is the first of a number of items im removing from it. Adds 20-30bhp. Straight swap with standard ECU, no wiring or messing about. ST205 specific version (part number confirms it) So will still run the charge cooler pump £400 cash (There is only one other for sale on ebay in Germany and the guy there wants £800 so mine is a bargain at half the price) Located in Reading but can post at buyers expense cheers
  13. Sorry to hear that dude. Just make sure you get a totally different unbroken engine and not a reconditioned one. As a lot of these dodgy garages that specialise in these engines (mostly in Birmingham) take your engine, stick new parts in it and then tell you it was a new recon engine. It'll only last a few months if you're lucky. They've been pulling this scam for years and not just on this engine.
  14. Oh dear.... oh dear oh dear.... Search the forum for old posts..... that engine has gone the way of the dodo my friend. Which is pretty much the fate of every 1ZZ-FE eventually... :(