AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


bothwell_buyer

TOC Supporter
  • Content count

    7,468
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

33 Excellent

About bothwell_buyer

  • Rank
    Top Rank Poster!
  • Birthday 11/30/1952

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0
  • First Name
    Ian

Profile Information

  • Contributor
    2
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    RAV4s, MR2s
  • Toyota Year
    1994
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Lanarkshire
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Modification
    Food & Drink
    Computers & Electronics
  1. mot test for forty quid will tell you....
  2. Lights? I used 6 Cibies up front at one time. Fuel consumption - 25mpg isn't bad. 25 - 27 would be normal I'd guess. Lights - if you're not happy at tinkering, then try Big Kevs solution.
  3. I doubt its the transfer box. I thrash my transmission on both my RAVs and bever any probs with transfer box. 2 things one is the rear diff mount which is probably soft and can be stffened with silicon gunge. the other is the central prop shaft mounting bearing which can cause knocks if worn. Lastly get the bushes on the rear suspension checked. the cheapest way is to put the car through an MOT !!!
  4. It is possible to remove the immobiliser. Best take the car or call in an auto-electrician. The immobiliser part can be bypassed/removed.
  5. I've had a few problems like you describe and its always been the windscreen seal.... especially when the screen is replaced, fitters never put enough sealer around the whole screen. I had one screen done on a previa where we found no sealer down the passneger side of the screen! Both my RAVs have been done and I now have a contact who does the screens for me and shows me what he's doing at the time ! The RAVs body shell flexes and even through time the seal can fail. I have no idea about the rubber seal thing mentioned earlier as my old RAVs don't have that.
  6. If it was 5 door models, it was probably due to a lack of oiling those hinges!
  7. the rear exhaust box where the pipe enters it is a favourite place for corrosion. If it is blowing, then you can get it welded if its not too bad. Its cos the muck from the rear wheel splashes up onto the pipe. The car should go into 1st gear easily. The boxes can be a little notchy from 1st to 2nd. From what I have read, the gearbox oil used should be the one specified. The clutch lasts around 80k miles approx. the box does have a known common fault - jumping out of 5th gear. Never known problems with 1st, so perhaps the clutch needs checked as said.
  8. I'd bet a few bob that its the breather pipe on the petrol - which runs from the filler neck down to the tank. The other bit is the filler tube itself. Best would be safer to get replaced. You can make up a suitable plastic pipe to replace it using petrol-safe tubing. The filler pipe can be replaced with a reinforced hose suitable for petrol and available from hydraulic hose shops or Demon Tweeks. (same with the breather pipe). Cos they are in the rear wheel arch, they are exposed to road salt etc - even behind the plastic protection shroud as the shroud is only screwed on and not sealed. You will get a smell if the tank is topped up as the breather pipe is probably open to the air and what you smell is the fumes. If anyone was to place a lighted match near to the pipe in the wheel arch behind the filler, then yes its dangerous. You won't lose much petrol at all - its all fumes. I ran one of my cars like that for a wee while before realising what it was.... then just kept the tank half-full until I could change the pipes. If the pipes are changed carefully, then there will be no damage to the tank. You will notice the smell when stopped - as when you're driving you are leaving the smell of fumes behind.
  9. So thats what a skin flint means ?
  10. Not many people will be buying cars as we approach Christmas so dealers should be keen to do a deal over the next few weeks. Our RAV is 7 years old in January and I feel I should be changing it for a newer one but it has only done 33000 miles and the bodywork is in better condition than many used but newer examples I have seen. I am still expecting to need to change the battery but that is a poor reason to change the car! With the difference between trade in and retail price being so large I know I will have to spend many thousands to buy a significantly better car. Still I will keep looking and will no doubt know when the right car comes along. shame on you - a RAV4 is for life - not a blinking puppy jist fur Christmas. Behave yersel and awa an stoke yer fire.
  11. Are you sure that the fuel you have bought for said RAv is actually diesel and not paraffin ? Or water soaked ?
  12. Del min...... By way of the PM (PRIVATE Message) system, send me yer home address. I seem to have accrued a couple of rear wipers for reasons better known to me, if the 4.3 rear wiper is same as yours..........wife's identical to mineseez. oi tink they are probably aff wan o they artics whit park in his arfea. Hooever, they will fit wi the use o a hacksaw and a bit of weldin !!! ( emoticon)
  13. were you or the car standing in 6" of muddy water ? otherwise sounds like things are out of sync
  14. No idea about young RAVs. My 2 20 year old RAVs have the following issues with rust.. - rust up at top of windscreen corners - due to mis-fitting of replacement screens and not using the right goo - rust at footwells particularly on passenger side, caused by water coming through ill-fitting windscreens - around rear wheel arches at the lip/edge - cos I allowed it to fester without giving the underside a good wash. - the petrol filler tube and breather pipe well corroded Number 1 RAV has now been completely stripped of all carpets and most of the interior plastic. One other place found was the rear shock absorber turret with a little rust around it. Other than that, all ok.
  15. Well done young Sir ! When the car is stationary then you don't get to smell much petrol...its when it being driven that the petrol sloshes about and then the smell gets blown away. I remember when I saw my pipe, the breather had pretty much disintegrated. The filler pipe was as you say holed. I wonder how many other RAVs are about to suffer the same problem?