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About James..

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  • Toyota Model
    RAV4 XT4 D4D 4.3 MY07
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  1. Difficulty - Medium/Easy Time - A couple of hours Tools - trim tool Example here (worth getting as you'll see below!) 10mm socket and driver, 22mm hole cutting bit (I used a woodworking one) and cordless drill Zip ties, Scissors and wire clippers You'll also be needing one Parrot Mki9100 kit and a Parrot ISO to Toyota adapter (aka SOT adapter) (Audioleads SOT-062). Mine was from Dynamic Sounds in London for about £8. Introduction This post describes how I fitted the Parrot Mki9100 interface to my 07 RAV 4.3 fitted with a standard CD changer stereo. The Parrot is available currently (March '10) for around £120. It is an excellent quality bluetooth hands free. For me, the key selling points were its additional music capabilities. If you have a phone that can stream in stereo via bluetooth, then this device will relay this audio through the stereo as well as control the phone remotely. For those of you who aren't so much into Bluetooth audio as me, the unit has got an Ipod interface, USB interface and a conventional 3.5mm stereo Aux-In plug. Note: Although I know a bit about electronics that doesn't mean that this is the only or indeed the best way of doing this install. There is plenty of scope to move things around as you see fit, provided you make sure you route around airbags and any other essential kit. The remote control for the unit is especially easy as it is entirely wireless! Procedure First disconnect the battery, take the stereo out and the glovebox out. To do this, follow Anchorman's exemplary coverage of the Ipod interface install. here I was a bit perplexed to how to get the glovebox out as both Anchorman and the Toyota instructions describe: the secret is that the damper can be pulled off the side of the 'box' directly (to your left as you look at it on a RHD drive car) with no ill effects like this: I don't know if that makes it any clearer! So, once you have everything apart, you need to locate the microphone. Now for my money I prefer to mount this on the A pillar to get it close to the driver: others like to mount the mic directly in front of the speedo pointing through the steering wheel. Anyway, here's the routing for this position: As you can see the dual microphone fits nicely with its base under the trim edging holding it in place. Once you are happy with the location you can remove the sticky on the bottom of the base to fix in place. You can then push the wiring out of the way so that it is hidden behind the rubber trim edging all the way down the edge of the door. This keeps it away from the airbags. Eventually tidying the wire away you'll arrive at the base of the trim: Next you need to break out your trusty trim removal tool (and IMHO it does pay to get one as I always find screwdrivers covered in tape tend to accidentally scratch when you don't expect it.) and gently prise the trim apart and prod the wire in behind the trim Next you can route this out of harms way over the top of the car interface connector Finally you need to route the cable back into the main stereo compartment. So, reach for your trim tool and hook the plug into the end of the tool like this: Now all you need to do is do a bit of wiggling with the trim, threading the tool in the right direction: it looks like this when you've inserted it in the dash with wire attached: Now you can look into the stereo compartment and spotting the end of the tool, reach in and fish the cable out. You can see the blue end of the trim tool from the stereo compartment like this: sorry forgot to turn the flash on! And voila, we're done, the microphone plug is on the right. Remember when you plug this into the Parrot Blue box that it has a locking position and should be twisted to lock in place. Next we need to do some drilling to install the multi-audio adapter lead (that's the funky one that has a big grommet on it and Ipod/USB/Aux adapters. This bit of the procedure is the same as the Ipod interface, except I was using a smaller drill bit as the Parrot grommet is 22mm. Some pictures below... The hole.. The drill - make a bit of a mess with the plastic.. The grommet from below. The audio adapter cable in situ. You can use the scissors at this point to cut the mat to your taste. Next we need to locate the Parrot display unit lead. As I wanted to put this next to the steering wheel, I used the trim tool to nudge the wire into the best location. This is its final resting place in the trim... This seems to be a juncture that causes minimal deformation to the trim with a wire routed there. Now we need to plug all the SOT leads in to the existing harness and plug everything into the Parrot blue box... For the sake of cleanliness I trim down the Parrot Line out leads with the wire clipper as these are not needed in this install. (Leaving some wire for possible reconnection) The mute line is number one, as per below. All the other plugs in the loom can only fit in one place so you have to be pretty dumb not to get this bit right Now, to secure the blue box. The previous owner had a Toyota Nokia kit fitted and I spent some time removing the wiring for this: the control box had been fixed with a sticky pad which had come undone so it was floating around. As the Parrot box is very light, I prefer to use zip ties to attach it to something. First zip tie the box itself. Then secure directly under the main stereo Finally you can reassemble everything and test. Don't forget to plug in all the leads you removed as well as those from the new SOT harness. You will need to put the button battery in the remote control and stick down the display in your chosen location. You can also put the remote control on the steering wheel if you so wish as the necessary fitments are in the kit. I chose to stick it below the display like this: With the display removed and the remote removed it looks like this. As I did the install today, it will be a little while before I have had a chance to check out all of its qualities, but it seems to be a good unit. I'll post a review when I get the time! cheers!
  2. Thought I would post up something about keys... and share what I've discovered! I hope this is of use to anyone who needs another key and has a 4.3 RAV. ... post removed .... However, I'll repost it when I've edited it to make it friendly for this forum. I was relying on links to a vendor site that is helpful in terms of sorting out which key you need, and without knowing which keys to get and where to get it from you'll be a bit stuck, so it somewhat negates the point of the post! cheers (Mod edit - links to third party seller removed)
  3. Common sense suggestion but dealers won't jeopardise a sale and they'll let the possible consequences of their omission be dealt with by the service dept later! If you have no choice but to use the car for short runs then an occasional "Italian tune-up" would be useful, i.e. a run down the local M-way or dual carriageway at high speed and taking the opportunity to rev it out in the gears where possible. About 30-50 miles once a month should do it. You guys are beginners when it comes to car problems as I'm a long standing Alfa Romeo nut. They are always going wrong in some entertaining manner, yet I still drive one. In twenty years of driving Alfas only once have I had a roadside breakdown and my RAV4 has spent more time off the road at the garage being taken apart for coolant leaks than any of them. Bizarrely I bought Toyota because I thought that they were supposed to be reliable. I hadn't realised that you need to budget £1500+ a year for new gaskets :P . If you buy an Alfa you expect it will be expensive to run, so you make an allowance for that. I guess I didn't expect the same of Toyota (- and a much bigger allowance). It is true that diesel cars are hobbled by their emissions controls, but they don't ALL blow up if they do short journeys. Mine haven't anyway! The average commute to work is I hear of the order of 6-10 miles. So there are an awful lot of RAVs doing short journeys out there, even if the average poster on here seems to be consuming diesel faster than a burning Syrian oil well. And considering that population - how many thousand are posting on here about their blown gasket experiences? I don't actually commute in my RAV, it is typically only used for long journeys on the Motorway, followed by driving up and down dirt tracks and unmade roads. So, quite why a new rebuilt engine from Toyota should blow at 7000 miles and 15 months use is beyond me. I'm not driving like a nutter (Italian tune ups are reserved for Italian cars in my case) but then I'm not hanging around either in stop start traffic. I just don't buy the 'low mileage' argument at all in this case. If the gaskets all fail at about seven years... high milers will inevitably cover more miles before they blow. Although I can only speculate because I know nothing, this has to be fundamental poor engineering. Maybe the head is badly designed and is warping because of the torque generated in the engine.. that's one theory I've heard that seems to make the most sense, or maybe the gaskets aren't thick enough... Either way the problem is that Toyota aren't spilling the beans when it comes to how may failures they are getting. So any discussion on this forum is likely to lead to either an excess of fear that any leak from the engine might be terminal, or the belief that in fact Toyota's are super reliable and it can't possibly happen to you (because it hasn't happened yet!). I can only tell you what happens to my car, and it isn't impressive for a brand that are supposed to be supplying reliable cars. Back to the OP though... I do think you can be fairly relaxed about this, if you can't see gallons of coolant pouring out then take your time, it probably isn't as bad as you think. Enjoy your travels and the RAV and get it into your local garage to fix it when you get back. And if it isn't the head gasket (which it very well may not be) then be happy. B) Plastic and rubber does begin to perish, and iron rusts as time passes, it could be quite simple.. assume the best until it is the worst!
  4. I feel your pain. My RAV is also of your vintage and similar miles. Its had two warranty repairs for gasket failure. Second one last year it had a new engine - as it was head gasket. But only just, I think if I had been a bit later it would have fallen out of the generous warranty period. Still, I can't complain if Toyota were prepared to fix it. It was off road for a month over Xmas and the garage were very much 'only if we see that it is the generic failure will Toyota pay for it, otherwise you'll get the bill'. New engine fitted, so you can imagine my delight this year when 7000 miles on and ... coolant overflow. My local garage confirmed that indeed the new engine was (worse) than the old one and the head gasket had indeed gone again. So I don't know what 'fix' has been applied to these 'new' engines, as I'm not driving like a nutter in this car. Toyota don't sell the diesel RAV4 in the US and Japan, and now I understand why. I am hoping that my garage will manage to get something out of Toyota for this, and I will no doubt open a thread to discuss just how they respond. As I think people do need to know that if they buy a D4D engine of whatever vintage, you can expect some time off road!! In your case though it sounds like you have a radiator problem as if you're not getting coolant expelled out of the top of the engine it could just be a pipe leak. I wouldn't panic if I were you, just carry a couple of pre mixed coolant bottles in the boot, and some Radweld. If you get desperate you can chuck in the Radweld (or K-seal or whatever), but it doesn't sound like you should be sweating it with a little leak like that, its not pouring out by the gallon and if you're prepared, you'll be fine! Just arrange for some leisurely pub stops on your way down, let the engine cool down and top up, and you'll be on your way. My better half did a 100 mile motorway trip with engine #1 and the only symptom of low coolant she noticed was that the heater did not work. Given the current UK summer you can probably drive around without coolant and you'll be fine, (Its not like you can't keep an eye on the temperature gage). The Toyota garage have advised me with the blown head gasket that it is 'fine to drive' and indeed some of the local taxi drivers round here with Toyota D4D engines just top up their headgasket blown engines in the morning, and drive around all day like that. I daresay its not exactly how the engine was supposed to work but it seems to be designed to leak like a sieve... :-) So, happy travels and don't panic!
  5. You're engine has been fixed, it will be fine - the point is, Toyota know what the problem is and fixed it with the rebuilt engine, so this car IS a good choice. If it hadn't been rebuilt you would more likely have the more sooty 'unreconstructed' engine and as a result likely have a dead DPF earlier than you would expect. To be honest not sure I'd personally buy a 90K mile Jap diesel banger, .. just because once you are over that mileage if it does go wrong the bills could be a killer, accounting for 100%+ of the value of the car (assuming you're shelling out £2k) . I'd go for a euro diesel myself, easy to tune, and ready availability of parts and specialists to fix it. Did you get your new toy yet :) ?
  6. hi people, some good news, looks like the engine will be replaced gratis by Mr. T so I'm having the clutch done at the same time while the engine is out. Question is, can I trust this new engine? Big thanks to Charliefarlie for posting this... as my local Toyota official service people were clueless and this might have cost me a fortune. Car's been off the road now for about three weeks so it will be nice to see it again, hopefully next week :-)
  7. And I do indeed have a VAG 2.0 TDI engine on my other car with a dodgy oil pump but that doesn't cheese me off because the repair bill is more like £600 than £2200 .. secondhand cars cost money but you shouldn't have to suffer manufacturing faults of that magintitude so early in the life of a car. I think I expected more from Toyota. I knew Toyota/Lexus diesels were dodgy when I bought the car, (thanks to this forum and from talking to other owners), but my RAC warranty expired before this latest failure. I guess the moral is to ALWAYS buy a Toyota extended warranty with any diesel engined Toyota to compensate for the unreliability and poor engineering, ( and trade it in as soon as you're over 30k miles on the clock.) . Would gladly put my VW diesel in my RAV - it would be a great car - give me another 25% more power, better mpg, less vibration, and a shed load more torque. And less likely to blow up every 10K miles with a serious engine fault. Yes other manufacturers have issues, but I haven't personally experienced such unreliability in an engine before: . . My local indie Toyota expert here services D4D engines in taxis and he says this is a common issue. Often the taxi drivers don't bother fixing it, just keep filling up the coolant every morning, and run it for another 20k miles :-) It's a thought, but I'll probably pop some porridge oats / egg nog in as well when my latest dealer comes back with 'sorry mate can't help you, that's Toyota for you'
  8. Hi all, I've just had a head gasket go, at 53000 miles on an 07 RAV. No advice from Toyota,and my dealer charged me 60 quid to identify the fault and then presented me with a bill for £2200 to rectify it, including another £120 item to identify the fault again. That alone means he's extremely unlikely to be getting any more business from me! Sure I feel like a mug for not asking here first what the classic symptoms were, and I would already be richer! Following that, I did speak to a nice gent at an independent shop and they mentioned this warranty. So, it's with another dealer and we'll see what happens. I love this RAV but it is by far the most unreliable car I've owned, and that comes after ten years of Alfa Romeo ownership. It has already had over £1000 pounds of warranty work done, (£800 on the engine to fix an oil leak) in the three years I've had it. :-( So, I guess I'm shafted though as I don't have any way of proving oil consumption because of the head gasket failure ... it's not like I can drive another 900 miles with the thing leaking (although I heard that some people do) is there any way of looking at the pistons to check the carbon deposit in there without a full disassembly? Otherwise this 'Goodwill' warranty might as well be useless as you've spent £1000 before you find out that in fact your head gasket blew up because it was made out of licorice, which means its not covered by Toyota anyway,...
  9. Well, it has taken ages but I have finally got the whole thing together today. It took me a long time because I cooked up some electronics so that I could have a push button on/off switch next to the gearlever ... but then had second thoughts about that approach after testing how the head until functioned and reading up the UK law on this topic. So, decided to go for an 'automatic' one as per normal with an override 'test' button. This uses some very simple switchgear: a fuse, a schottky diode, a small resistor and an illuminated led pushbutton (The diode just prevents the reverse light coming on when you are testing the camera). The camera is currently sitting directly under the spare wheel on a velcro mount. Now I admit thats not the most secure location/mounting option, but of all the locations I have tried this seems to give the best picture. The velcro is just to make it easy to get the cam off should you need to get the spare out. So, I'm going to run it under there for a while. In the meantime I am going to try and locate a small transparent perspex dome which I can embed in the spare wheel cover. Then I should be able to mount the camera inside the spare wheel between the spokes and looking out through the dome. It will be more conspicous but a bit more secure. Anyway, I have a raft of pictures from this install, and for the head unit (JVC double din stereo with multimedia) so once I have the 'final solution' for the cam, and have done some more road testing I will post it all up. As schm points out, if you want to remove the boot side panels you need to remove everything.... including the seats. Luckily you don't have to do that with a bit of judicious plastic bending and wire threading ;) ... and you don't need infra red, as even with my cheapy CMOS camera, it works just fine with the RAVs reversing lights...
  10. Nice and simple, good one! :) Quick dumb question... Is this the official dashmount cradle for the RAV4? Rare to find car parts made in Norway...
  11. As part of my forthcoming 4.3 reversing cam install, i also cooked up some electronics to add a momentary 'override' switch so I could turn the camera on and off at the press of a button on the dash (don't want a switch you could accidentally leave it on). Now while I haven't actually warmed up the soldering iron to stick all the components together, this got me thinking. Firstly, why not have the cam permanently controlled manually anyway with a dash button- surely it must be irritating having the camera going on and off if you are manoeuvring around and going in and out of reverse? So, the question I have is: does anyone know what the rules are with regard to having a live camera feed to your dash while you are driving, because the other thing I was thinking of doing was to reuse one of my old (ordinary) headcams as a forward facing infra red camera. There may well be all sorts of practical technical reasons why it wouldn't work, in fact I'd say there is a 1% chance I'll get it to work, but I quite fancy having a go. BMW have a night vision system installed on a seven series but I think Mr Clarkson said that you couldn't use it while driving??...on the other hand, LR now have multi cam systems like this which appear to work at any speed: .As always, any advice or pointers appreciated! cheers!
  12. Sorry, don't know - I don't know if there is such a thing as "standard" or "typical" for these? It was just about the cheapest flush-mount camera I could find, so unlikely to be anything special (though no complaints about it :) ) What I would do if fitting again is to use the angled collars that came with the camera to point down more so as to get some part on the car to act as a point of reference. The cars I have had after selling my RAV4.2 have both had reversing cameras and have the lip of the bumper just visible, and this has meant I can reverse within mm's of the car behind with total confidence It would be useful to have a guide for the 4.3 with spare So... the camera arrived this week. Now, after extensive browsing of posts on various forums as well as this one, it would appear that the best place to put the camera is as centrally as possible at waist height looking down with the bumper in view at the bottom (like this T180 install). Various US folk with 4.3s and wheels on the back have put cameras on their license plate lights (which is half way up the door on the left hand side (looking from the back)... but the view is then too offset to be really useful. I'd really like this to be more than a gimmick, although this car doesn't really need a reversing camera, it would be a shame not to have one if my head unit can handle it! So because of the wheel, the cam will have to go to the left/underneath it on the door. This will be lower than I would like but at least I should have a better view across the whole of the back of the car, with the bumper underneath and the towball right in front of it. This camera is the one I went for on the basis that I needed a fair bit of adjust-ability to work with the rear door/wheel problem. I've powered it up and tested it on the TV and it reverses the image and has 'tramlines' imposed on the image, although they will be of little practical use in this application because the camera will be mounted too low. It is a cheap CMOS camera but I think with the addition of some silicon grease to waterproof it, it should do the job. Contrary to the listing it doesn't do very good night vision, but what do you expect for £16. In fact the optics are pretty poor but they should be good enough... So, before I dive under the trim, I was curious to find out if anyone has actually run wires from the rear door to the head unit on a UK car?? All these installs seem to be using existing wiring which likely won't be present in my car. I was thinking that the shortest path would be down the side of the car past the driver. Any pointers gratefully accepted!
  13. Have a look at this thread ....Low Down Reversing Camera for both location OF camera and view FROM Camera Ref mirror image camera, I cannot remember the details, but I found one was significantly easier to use then the other (and looking at the thread, it was probably the Mirror Image. You will likely find that the Head Unit will have a Normal/Mirror Image setting anyway, rather then having to have a specific Mirror Image Camera. Thanks Hoovie, that gives me a good idea what might work. I didn't pick it up because I was looking in the 4.3 tips list but that answers 95% of my question. Do you happen to know what the angle of view on your camera was quoted as? My head unit I think is not smart enough to reverse the image, so I might just have to shell out £20 for a camera from HK that does that. When I get round to installing it, I guess I will have to do a guide for the 4.3 for that exclusive club with a wheel on the back... B)
  14. Hi all, Just got a new head unit that is camera capable, and investigating how to put a camera on my 4.3 RAV. As I have several old headcams from my hobby I wondered if it would be feasible to use one of them (sample footage here to show the angle of view. ) - I would imagine so, as they are CMOS and put out a PAL composite video and in fact take a 12v supply... so should work with the head unit. The quality wouldn't be as bad as the OVI video sample in the link, because that was super compressed to fit the site. What I am more concerned about is where do you put the cam? The T180 set up above the number plate is perfect, but I bought my XT4 specifically because it has a spare wheel on the back, (and it has proved very useful on a couple of occasions... I just love the RAV, so easy to change the wheels!). Putting the cam down under the bumper probably wouldn't work with these 'bullet cams' because of their narrower field of view. If someone has a screenshot of what their reversing cam looks like when mounted down on the bumper - both in terms of location and what the view looks like with the camera on their head unit, that would be a great help! One final thing.. how important is it to have a mirror image camera???? cheers! James
  15. @Anchorman: thanks! Glad you liked it! @Cav, The CK3100 is good - in fact I think the display visibility may be better than the funky one on the 9100, but you don't get all the fun music functions. The install described here is pretty much the same for the CK3100 - I put one in my last car. You just don't need to do any drilling in the glove box for the special audio connectors that the 9100 has.