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Cyker

Registered Member
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Cyker last won the day on May 26

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About Cyker

  • Rank
    Top Rank Poster!

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  • First Name
    Moo

Profile Information

  • Contributor
    1
  • Gender*
    Not Telling
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris Mk1 D4D T-Spirit '54
  • Toyota Year
    2004
  • Location
    Other/NonUK

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18,795 profile views
  1. How to get into second gear properly?

    What, is it quite a jerky disengagement? It may just be the way you're driving it. My bro had the same problem in his Corolla when he just passed his test; I think he'd never driven a car with so much torque before and was just letting go of the accelerator too sharply when pushing the clutch in instead of feathering it off first. Other times he'd not let go fast enough and the engine would surge as he pushed the clutch in. I remember finding the Aygo gear changes a bit lumpy too at first when I first drive one; Partly because the clutch engagement point is so obnoxiously high, but also because it took me a while to get used to how the engine behaved compared to my D4D.
  2. Front Tyre Wear

    The PremiumContact 2E is a good tyre - Solid wet performance, decent predictable grip, good tread life, not too expensive. (Well for me... last time I looked they were £40-50 each for us 14"ers ) (I'm not sure if there is a big difference between the 2 and 2E... Think the 2E might be a slightly harder compound?) I think hybrid and diesel FWD cars do wear the tyres faster tho', due to the extra weight and torque vs a straight petrol car.
  3. Any word on whether the expansion of the zone is going ahead or not? That's the bit I'm worried about Really hoping it won't happen... If they do I'll have to trade my faithful and beloved Yaris D4D for a worse car, probably one more polluting and less efficient to boot!
  4. Front Tyre Wear

    It's tricky to get to the 30k's with small narrow tyres like ours! I think the most I've gotten was 20k too (Continental Premium Contact 2E), but my all-time record was something like 7000 miles (That prize goes to the Continental Premium Contact 5 - Great grip but apparently made of grape jelly...) Current tyres are Dunlop/Goodyear Efficientgrip/Streetresponse2 and they've lasted pretty well so far despite me thrashing the crap out of them.
  5. Help anyone please

    Yeah, there are loads of petrol Yarisesusiese out there... it's just the Mk1 diesels that are the hard to find ones! (Well, except in Scotland for some reason??) It's always worth seeing a number of them before you even think about putting down a deposit tho', esp. if it's not a car you have driven before! Then you can get to know some of what's normal and what's not about them.
  6. I just tried to log in and it would NOT let me log in unless I filled in the Location, First Name, Last Name and Car detail fields - Is there a reason for this? I'm a firm believer in supplying as little personal information to anything on the Internet without a good reason, and I don't see any good reason why any random visitor should have access to my real name and location. It's not a big thing since I'm just putting bogus data in there, but I'd feel better if I didn't have to fill them in at all like with some of the other fields...
  7. Yaris Key Programming

    No problem. Good luck with whatever you do!
  8. Yaris Key Programming

    Both - The three of them use different codes, and the blade is also different (You can compare this in the photos!)
  9. Yaris Key Programming

    Hmm, from what I can tell the eBay one you posted won't work - I *think* it is a Denso, but the posting is sketchy as heck - It shows a 2 button key, but a 3-button module! I'd look elsewhere... BTW, there are people who can repair your existing key for quite cheap (Although you often have to send it away which may not be acceptable). I will say trying to get a key done on the cheap can be tricky unless you're quite lucky - It is hard finding a decent working module, partly because there are 3 different types but mainly because almost all the ones on eBay are 2nd hand and even if it is the right one it may not work (When I was trying all this, the module I ended up with was able to open the doors but I just couldn't get it to code to the ECU to disable the immobilizer!) If you can afford it it's worth buying the remote module alone from Toyota (It is still expensive but cheaper than if you get a complete key and get it programmed!) because it will be guaranteed to be correct and fresh to be coded to the ECU, then buy a key case off eBay for a tenner or so (Again, have to be careful as Valeo, Denso and Tokai-Rika use different key blades!), then programming it yourself. The faff I had trying to get a 2nd hand module to work on my car ended up costing me near what getting Toyota to do it would have, plus wasted a lot of time! For comparison, from Toyota, IIRC the remote module alone is usually £70-90, while a full key is something like £120 plus between £30 and £70 to be cut and programmed depending on how ubiky your Toyota garage is, and you have to bring your V5C to prove you own the car. (Curiously they don't care if you just buy the remote module on its own!) The remote I bought off eBay (The one that opened doors but wouldn't start the car) was I think ~£50, the key case was £10, coding was, thanks to this forum, free (aside from a few odd looks from my neighbour when I was opening and shutting the door and stamping on the brakes repeatedly!), but then I ended up paying something like £70 to get an RFID cloned off my working key and stuck to the inside of the flip-key case I bought to make the stupid thing disable the immobilizer... The kicker is the key later broke (The buttons sheared off so it wouldn't unlock the doors any more!) and I ended up buying a new remote module from Toyota anyway, which took me about 3 attempts to code the doors and 5 to code the immobilizer!
  10. first 1000 miles ?

    For the most part, just drive it 'normally' (Like a 'normal' person as opposed to normal for a, say, a getaway driver :D). The car will get used to your driving style and everything should wear in nicely; Don't thrash the crap out of it (That comes later ;;;;))))) but don't feel you have to drive it too sedately/gently either! The main thing is to subject it to a wide range of rpms from low to high (Not too much of the extreme highs or lows tho) - The reason for this is the piston will be wearing into the bore and I'm told if you drive too constantly, a thin ring of un-worn cylinder wall can form at the top/bottom which can then pop off and shred the valves if you suddenly rev it hard one day. That said, I suspect you'd have to drive it at a single RPM for thousands of miles for that to become an actual problem... esp. given how long it takes diesel engines to wear in compared to petrols!
  11. Yaris Key Programming

    There are (IIRC) 3 different possible types of remote for the Mk1 Yaris - I think they are Denso, Valeo and Tokai-Rika - so it's not possible to know from the info you've given. What does it say on the key you have?
  12. shh shh shh noise

    @monkeydave - I *highly* recommend you bring a copy of that recording with you so you can show it to them because Toyota are generally useless for this sort of thing unless you really push them to look at it; 9 times out of 10 they will either say they couldn't reproduce the problem or that it is normal and nothing to worry about it, unless you can show it to them so clearly they can't just brush it aside.
  13. shh shh shh noise

    I still think it's the belt; I think you'd need to spray a lot of water on it to make it go away - I find water makes the noise worse!! When I was diagnosing it I was using WD40 but it was hard spraying it onto the right pulleys to see where the noise was coming from because they're quite deep, and it only stopped it shrieking like a cat and reduced it to a chuff-chuff-chuff for a few minutes.
  14. Creaking/Rubbing sound when turning

    Yeah, it's the tyres scrubbing sideways against the ground because the wheels aren't aligned properly at steeper steering angles; It's 'normal' and you can safely ignore it.
  15. Emission problem

    It's probably deposits building up in the engine; It'd be worth running a few tanks of Shell FuelSave or V-Power through it in the months approaching the MOT next time to see if that helps. You could also try that TeraClean thing - Seemed to help in Wheeler Dealers when they were having similar issues with emissions. An 'italian tune-up' has also been shown to help in some cases too, esp. if the engine is otherwise in good condition ;) Always driving an engine gently can actually hurt it as it allows stuff to build up and it never gets burnt off or blown out; It is partly why modern emissions-controlled diesel engines are so much less reliable than their older cousins. Kinda reminds me of the first time I drive my dad's old diesel Focus - He never pushed it, so the first time I floored it down an on-ramp it threw so much soot out the back it looked like the smoke screen from Spy Hunter!