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Cyker last won the day on November 24 2016

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About Cyker

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  1. I think they give you a lot of extra leeway on diesels because you do NOT want to run out of fuel in a diesel. If air gets into the fuel lines you need to re-prime the whole system or risk injector damage. Personally, I think having such a big buffer is very reassuring. When mine hits the final flashing block (I have a digital fuel gauge), I know I need to refuel but don't need to do so immediately and can finish what I'm doing and do so when convenient. Unlike, say, my old !Removed! Fiesta, where if the needle got anywhere near the bottom I'd be like OHCRAPOHCRAPOHCRAPWHERE'SAPETROLSTATION because I'd have less than 10 miles to find one before the engine would stop working, and usually in some random countryside road where I didn't know where anything was. This is one of the big hangups I have with electric cars too... the Leaf and i3 have less range than my Yaris does on its 'empty' so I feel I'd be in a permanent state of range anxiety!
  2. Do you need to take the ARB off to drop the bolt it in from the top or can you slide it in from the bottom without the bolt protruding? The Toyota ones are nice as the bolt has nuts at both ends. The poly ones I bought have a thicker, longer bolt and I couldn't reuse the old one, and because it's longer I had to drop it in from the top or the bolt would protude and hit the axle. (Even loosening the ARB is a pain in the ****!)
  3. I was gonna suggest the Starter motor as there is a known issue with it causing starting problems when the engine is warm, but I see you've changed that and your problem is when the engine is cold so it probably doesn't apply anyway... Only other thing that springs to mind is the glow plugs - Do you just start the car right away or do you wait for the glow-plug light to go out? When it's particularly cold here (Which is rare daaan saaaaf!), I'll put the ignition to position two, wait for the glow plug light to go out, then flick it off and back to position two again , wait for the glow plug light to go out again and then position three to crank the engine. Never had a problem with starting it doing this. My brother lives further norf and used to have issues starting the car in winter until he started doing this. The only other thing I can think of is the fuel, but TBH unless you live in northern Scandinavia I doubt that would be an issue...
  4. I bought my front ARB drop-links from but you kinda need to know the dimension of the things you need unless the model of your car is in there!
  5. Random increases seem pretty normal in my experiences; I change insurers pretty much every couple of years in order to keep the cost down as whenever I'm with an insurer for any length of time it inevitably goes up rather than down! And I am still mad about that 'equality' ruling that made women's insurance go up instead of bring ours down!!
  6. Could also be the battery or the starter motor?
  7. Does sound clutch-related... does your missus tend to hold the clutch in when waiting instead of going into neutral? If so, it may be the clutch spring has flattened out and isn't pressing hard enough against the disc anymore (Although in that case it would be doing it in all gears I would think?) My first Yaris had that issue; Felt like there was really bad clutch slip during engagement, esp. when moving off on a steep hill, but doing the stall trick to check seemed to indicate it was fine. Got my mechanic to change the clutch anyway and we found the disc was mostly fine but worn around the outer edge (But still a good 20,000 miles on it or so he reckoned), the release bearing was badly worn and the spring was flattened on one side and pushing the plate in at an angle instead of flat (Which was why the outer inch or so was so much more worn). Classic case of the clutch being ridden and held in at the lights I was told (Not by me I hasten to add! I put all the blame on the previous owner!)
  8. Well they are a good thing - They boost efficiency! Even some electric cars use them even tho' technically you don't need them with an electric motor. That said, I suspect it will be a thing of the past in the mid-future as improvements in electric motor tech reduce the benefits vs extra weight and complexity... (Should clarify I'm talking about multi-ratio gearboxes; I think most electric cars will always have some sort of fixed-ratio gear box rather than going for direct drive...)
  9. Bit late to the party but my PIAA wipers are still doing great and I still haven't had to change them!
  10. This may sound strange but have you tried it in a different place? There are a couple places I goto where something jams the remotes so I can't lock/unlock the car with the remotes even if I'm standing right next to it! First time it happened I was like "Oh ****..." but when I got home I tried them again and they worked fine!
  11. If that was the last key you're basically screwed; If you have key cover on your insurance, this is the time to invoke it! The cheapest course of action from there would be to somehow contrive a car thief steal your car and get it back on insurance... All other options require new ECU and locksets; A new one from Toyota will almost certainly cost more than the car is worth; You might be able to get a set, with lock barrels and keys, from a breakers yard. But first just look really damned hard for that key!!!
  12. Yeah, they *really* should have used the Toyota 1.4D instead of the PSA one... I sometimes wonder how hard it would be to retrofit one into an Aygo...
  13. Out of curiosity, do we know what kind of engine that 2.5L is? I'm wondering if it's a standard engine or if it's been eco-fied. The Lexus RX hybrids were hilarious - Rather than some eco'd up engine, they took the same V6 that the petrol ones and stuck that to the hybrid system. Those things could *haul*. The difficulty with the toyota miller/atkinson-cycle type engines is they perform like much smaller engines - the 1.5 in the Yaris HSD feels more like a 1.0 and the 1.8 feels more like a 1.4 or 1.5 - so it's hard to compare them on CC alone, esp. since the maximum fuel charge they can take isn't even close to their CC.
  14. To be fair, this doesn't really tell us anything we didn't already know. Petrols naturally produce higher CO/CO2 emissions than diesel - This is why they're usually cheaper to tax. (Under the old rules anyway; I'm ****** at the discriminating against us DERV people after such strong encouragement to buy a diesel car!) so in situations where the hybrid can't leverage the electric motor (i.e. long motorway runs) all the fancy tricks go out the window and it'll basically run like a heavy petrol car! Diesel has always been better for moving a load and for long distance driving - Even these new hybrid trucks are diesel-electric, not petrol-electric. But I think they don't give the hybrid RAV enough credit - >80mpg in town!? Even my Yaris couldn't do that! So the RAV would be a perfect Chelsea tractor for the type of person who buys a 4x4 but would never take it anywhere near mud! Given the number of these things (4x4s and SUVs) being used on the school run that can't be a bad thing... They certainly couldn't recommend the diesel down here in London since all diesel owners are probably about to be ****** up the **** by the new low emissions zone. But what the heck is up with the size of the RAV now?! A friend of mine has an old one and it's half the size of the newer ones! I actually can't tell if I'm looking at a Land Cruiser or a RAV4 half the time! As for the whine, I assume they mean the petrol engine ramping up sharply under heavy acceleration? That seems to be a thing with CVTs and some hybrids (It seems to be worse in hybrids which have not-quite-powerful-enough engines like the 1.5L Yaris HSD)
  15. The security light is for the immobilizer; I don't think any Mk1 comes with an alarm as standard. AFAIK all Mk1 Yarisusseses should come with 2 black keys and 1 grey key when new. However, when being sold second hand, the vast majority of them seem to only have one key, and sometimes it isn't even an original Toyota key! (At least that's what I found when I was looking for one!) If the grey key is Toyota branded, it is indeed a valet key; This sucks because you will not be able to program a new key into the ECU or make the remote central locking work, although you can probably clone the transponder in the valet key into a non-Toyota blank key just to have a spare. (Most decent auto-locksmiths can do this) If you bought it recently, complain to who you bought it from and make it Their Problem instead; You also might be able to contact the previous owner to see if they can find one of the black keys. (Hopefully they are nice people and not total dickheads) There are other options but TBH, if it is a 1999 petrol GLS, they are not worth pursuing: 1) The Proper Way - Replace the ECU and lock barrels with new ones and new keys; This will probably cost more than the car is currently worth 2) Find a specialist auto-locksmith who can crack the ECU to inject new master key transponder codes into it - This will probably cost half what the car is currently worth, require many weeks of the car not working (As you normally have to remove the ECU and send it off), and a lot of time spent trying to find one of these mythical specialists (We had one guy on here advertising this service but I haven't seen him for some number of years now...!)