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Les "Giddlepin" Ackroyd - 1951 to 2016  - A well missed friend to everyone. 

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About Cyker

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  1. If the calipers are stock, you could also get a Toyota garage to quote for parts and use that part number to figure out what parts you need.
  2. Yeah, you're better off getting the parts yourself IMHO; I had my pads changed by Toyota Jemca last October assuming they'd use proper Toyota parts, but found they'd used so-called Optifit parts, in this case cheap-***** Textar-branded pads which you can get for a fraction of the cost anywhere.
  3. Thanks for your time following this up frosty, much appreciated :) :thumbsup: They are right that it was often an extra thing they'd charge for, which I know caught a lot of people on service contracts out who weren't expecting to pay anything extra, but it does kinda suck as I deliberately wouldn't let them change air and cabin filters because it'd cost me £20-odd for the parts to do it myself vs the £80+ they'd charge to do it! I do wonder if they'd let you decline parts off it and knock some money off tho'. One bright side is my car is so old it qualifies for the new Gold/Silver services which AFAICT are literally the old intermediate/full services!
  4. @fordulike - In a way it is; You are taught this when learning (Well, I was anyway!) and it'd be an instant fail if you were moving in neutral at any time other than in between changing gears. The most ironic thing about coasting in neutral is that it doesn't even really save any fuel; The engine is still pumping fuel to keep the tickover going, and in a petrol that's where it's most inefficient as it has to work against the full force of the throttle vacuum! If you're coasting *in* gear and the engine's above ~1000rpm, the ECU notices what's going on and cuts the fuel pump until the rpm drops below that. (Or you push the accelerator or the clutch, so don't rest your foot on either of those while doing this or it doesn't work; You should be covering the brakes anyway!) @Tom - I use my aircon button like that
  5. It's just one of many driving gripes, along side things like people that don't check their mirrors, people that use the phone while driving, people that don't use signals, people that think 'courtesy traffic lights' are a real thing, people that hog the middle and outer lanes (Although this I am less annoyed with nowadays as I can often just stay in the left lane and bypass long queues of traffic! ), and people who don't know the 2-second rule (I want to put some rubber Mad-Max style spikes on the back of my Yaris to scare such people. Or maybe a rearward-facing slingshot with copies of the highway code tied to bricks...) But alas this is part of driving... at least over here it isn't as bad as say India, China or Paris
  6. 5 miles should be enough for the hybrid to warm up I would think. If you really want an automatic, go for the Hybrid! I generally dislike autoboxes, but will tolerate locking torque-converters, as in the GT86, or the hybrid HSD as both of them don't have any wearing parts that cost a shedload of money to fix when they go wrong. That said, I don't think we've had any people reporting problems with the belt-driven CVT in the newer Toyota cars so far (Which is impressive!), although it's still not been long enough to develop the really nasty problems you can get when the belts start to wear. The Yaris hybrid isn't as economical as its rating suggests (You're more likely to get mid-50's than 70+!) but it's consistently more economical than the petrol CVT. If you can find one in your price range with the features you want and in good nick, I'd deffo get that over the petrol!
  7. It's not 'brake light sensitivity', it's that brake lights are really **** bright - They are about the same brightness as fog lamps if they are working properly! It's okay now, while it's sunny and bright, but when it starts to get dark and you're in a street with **** lighting with your irises dilated, it is no fun. I often shut my eyes when stopped behind someone for extended periods in the winter, esp. when coming home from work when my eyes are already sore from staring at a monitor all day, because I can SEE the brake lights through my eyelids, and see when they go off! I suspect most people will find it increasingly uncomfortable but just take it as normal, as they are also holding down the brake pedal. For short periods you can ignore it but if you ever get stuck in a 2 hour queue on the motorway in a non-lit section with some **** with high-powered LED brake lights on for the ENTIRE time you may begin to understand shy some of us get a bit pissy about such things...
  8. As my driving instructor used to say, "If a pause becomes a wait, use the hand brake OR I'LL RIP YOUR LUNGS OUT!"
  9. If all you are doing is lots of short journeys, petrols easily beats diesel and can beat hybrid too. The problem with hybrids and diesels is they take a while to get hot and while they're cold the efficiency goes down the toilet. Unless you are towing stuff or doing longer runs, there's no real advantage with going with diesel as you don't need the extra torque and you won't get the efficiency because the engine is too cold. (In fact that will cause loads of other issues in the long term like crud building up on the injectors and annoying EGR system and DPF blockages etc.) The hybrid might be worth a look if your journey is long enough for it to be able to put charge in the battery without running cold, but you're paying a lot more money for relatively little benefit. (The clincher is if you prefer automatics; If so, just get the hybrid. Best autobox you can buy currently!) I do love my diesel Yaris tho'. No matter how much I thrash the thing it won't go below 50mpg But although I do short journeys, they are after a fairly long journey so the engine doesn't have time to cool down and stays quite efficient. It is the last of the reliable diesels tho', all the ones that come after it have DPFs which I feel have caused more harm to the environment than they save!
  10. The two most common reasons for that are: 1) Crud build-up on the injectors 2) EGR blockage The first can be sorted out with a good hard run with some injector cleaner in the tank or fancy fuel like V-Power diesel. The second needs to have the EGR and everything along it examined; While we say it is the EGR, in the vast majority of cases the actual EGR valve is fine, but the throttle body it feeds that mixes the EGR air and turbo output is where the blockage occurs. On mine there was a small port/hole about the size of a 5p where the EGR flowed out and it was solidly blocked with soot; Had to take the whole throttle body out to soak it in carb cleaner and poke it with a screw driver until it was all cleaned out, then sprayed some carb cleaner up the channel that feeds it and loads of dissolved soot flowed out.
  11. I think that's normal; The newer Uniroyal RainExperts also have that, where it looks like the grooves are pointing the wrong way when you put them on the other side, but apparently this is by design...
  12. Ahh, just a thought. I always picture Scotland in perpetual blizzards
  13. Has it been quite cold where you are recently?
  14. @Ancient - Is that still considered true for FWD cars? I always figured you'd want the grip on the front in an FWD car, since losing the rear end is much easier to get out of in a FWD (i.e just steer where you want to go and accelerate out of it), whereas losing the front is basically impossible to recover from (You have to hope the car slows enough to regain grip before you plough into a ditch or something)