Cyker

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Cyker last won the day on November 8

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About Cyker

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    Moo

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  • Toyota Model
    Yaris Mk1 D4D T-Spirit '54
  • Toyota Year
    2004
  • Location
    Other/NonUK

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  1. The Future Of Our Diesels

    Waaaaa?! So... they are trying to combine all the downsides of a petrol engine with all the downsides of a diesel engine?! That is hilarious!
  2. The Future Of Our Diesels

    Really??? I thought all modern petrols were direct injection!
  3. Anyone owned a 1.3(3) Mk1 and Mk2 Yaris?

    Thanks guys. If I go for the Mk2 1.33, it'll be something like a TR which is, as far as I can tell, the highest spec model that still has the digital dash in the middle. It's been ages since I've been in one and I don't think I've ever gone for a hoon in one to see what the handling and pull is like. Madasafish! I know you have had both! Please render unto me your wise and expert knowledge of... certain types of Toyota vehicles! And also certain types of small flying insects!
  4. I'm just wondering how they compare, which you feel is nicer to drive, more practical, more reliable, notable differences etc. It turns out some versions, like the TR, did come with the digital dash I love so much and I feel I could overlook the loss of the sunroof (If I really miss it I could always get someone to saw a hole in the roof! ) so I've started considering the Mk2 as a possible move too. I don't like that it is bigger, but it's only a bit bigger (not like the Mk3 which is so big it's practically in the next size grade!) so I can cope with that. The 1.33 Mk2s also have the advantage that they are cheaper to tax than the Mk1 1.3 and supposedly have slightly better torque (Although I remember someone saying that the 1.33 actually pulls worse than the 1.3??)
  5. The Future Of Our Diesels

    Maybe, but theoretically HCCI should be like diesel cycle engines and care less about fuel quality. The only reason diesel engines can't run on any combustible liquid is the stupidly-high pressure injectors have ludicrously tight tolerances and need a very debris-free and highly lubricating fuel to stop them destroying themselves. This is why ancient diesels with half-ubikd mechanical pumps can be run on stuff like straight chip-oil but modern ones would just break. Actually, I reckon HCCI engines might even work better with a worse RON/Octane petrol since it'd be much easier to trigger combustion by compression! So Americans and their crappy 85RON fuel might actually see the most benefit! But if the injectors are as delicate as diesel ones (I don't see why they would since they could run at a much lower pressure?) they would deffo need good fuel filtering...
  6. Glad you've had some good progress! And thanks so much for posting an update - So many people come here, ask for advice, but never come back to say how they got on and drives me crazy!
  7. The Future Of Our Diesels

    Well they do seem to miss the point of why people buy their cars so I could imagine them doing something loony like trying to replace the Avensis with the CR-H. It's like how the Yaris Mk3 has absolutely none of the characteristics that made the original Yaris so popular with people like me - It doesn't have any of the clever design features or interior storage of its predecessors. It's like they were too scared to even deviate a little bit from the norm and instead made a cookie-cutter car that basically doesn't offer anything over its rivals. I'm curious to see how Mazda's new engine does - Supposedly the cleanliness and revviness of a petrol with the pull and efficiency of a diesel. Sounds like the holy grail of engines! Sadly it's a good few years away and those officious gits in London may have forced me to get rid of my Yaris before then! I still think it's amusing that a relatively small company like Mazda seem to be the leading pioneers of engine development; You'd think VW or Toyota would have beaten them to the punch! I mean, they're definitely not the first company to make an automotive HCCI engine (I think GM had one at one point??) but none of the others could get over the very narrow working parameters - None of them thought to cheat by putting a spark plug in there to give it that extra push over the edge! The long term reliability is the only concern I have for it - That engine will be very very dependent on its sensors and computer, and if they cheap out on either of those it will cause really hard to diagnose problems!
  8. Windscreen cover for winter

    I've got a load of those silica gel pouches you get with electronical things sitting in the passenger under-tray which seems to help, but if the windscreen is misted up I set the heater to maximum heat, blower to windscreen and turn the AC on; Clears it in seconds as long as it's just mist and not frost! (Frost takes a bit longer...)
  9. The immobilizer ring is literally a circle of wire acting as an antenna that surrounds the top of the ignition barrel - It's normally connected to the ECU via the terrifying wiring loom. If he's using the old engine and ECU but trying to start it with the new key and it cranks but doesn't start, this is very likely the problem. You can try to test-kludge it by using the new key to fire the ignition, but holding the body of the old one as close to the ignition barrel as you can; That might be enough for the antenna ring to pick up the old key's transponder and disable the immobilizer. If that works, it'd be worth swapping all the locks and barrels over and using the old keys. If the new key still unlocks the doors tho' it sounds like the new ECU is installed which may be why the old engine won't work!
  10. Although, as an owner of a normal Mk1 Yaris, I think the Yaris Verso looks like the unholy offspring of things I can't even mention on this forum , there are a few people on here who think they are the best thing ever made so you've got friends here And since Capybaras, even disguised ones, are obviously the best animal ever, I shall still extend a cordial greeting to the forum
  11. Auris mileage going down, why?

    I reckon it's the winter; Hybrids and diesels, esp. ones used for short distance trips, are known to get hit pretty hard in the mpgs as the temperature drops. Petrol engines aren't affected so much as they naturally waste a lot of heat which helps them come up to temp faster, even in winter, but for instance by mid-winter I can get half way to work before the cold engine light goes out if I drive my D4D for maximum efficiency! Hybrids have the same problem as they have to run the ICE more to keep it at minimum operating temp, and when it's doing that it's obviously running below optimal temp and more fuel is wasted.
  12. Does it crank? If it cranks but doesn't fire, I'd put my money on the immobilizer being the cause. I'm not sure how you'd transfer all that over tho' - You'd need the old ECU and the old key transponders at the least and this assumes the immobilizer antenna is compatible in the new car! If the dash doesn't come on at all, it's probably something more fundamental; I'd see if there is even any electricity going to where it should!
  13. 2004-2006 1.4 D4D

    The 1.4D4D has so far been one of the most reliable and bullet proof engines Toyota have made (I have one so I may be biased ) - If the one you're referring to is the pre-DPF version (74HP vs 90HP), that has proven to be particularly reliable and robust, even when abused, as long as it's had regular oil changes to keep the timing chain in good shape. The only semi-common issue that springs to mind is the EGR/throttle-body getting sooted up if the engine's never pushed, which eventually causes an uneven idle. It's an easy fix with a metal bowl and some carb cleaner! I rarely have to top up the oil in mine - It's literally only if I'm running V-Power diesel and have been hooning about in the 3000-4000rpm area - Under normal use it uses no oil whatsoever. TBH I don't recall any of the Corolla diesel engines having any major issues; The 2.0 D4D has a known issue with the starter motor not cranking the car if the engine is hot but that's pretty minor and the fix is to replace the starter motor with a revised unit. The petrol ones fared worse - The 1.8VVTi had issues such as snapped lift-bolts if the 2nd valve timing was abused a lot and has had some reports of higher oil use, but given most of these were from CTS owners, I suspect a lot of the issues were due to them being thrashed .
  14. D4D won't start

    If your car has a 1CD engine, there is a known issue with the starter motor not working properly when the engine is warm - http://cyker.net/Public/CarStuff/TSB_starterproblem_EG6005-TOY.pdf The fix is to replace the starter motor with a revised one which fixes the problem (Annoyingly they both have the same code)
  15. Car feels flat at low revs..

    Other things worth checking: MAF sensor may need a clean Air filter may need changing Diesel fuel filter may need changing Throttlebody where the EGR, turbo and intake meet may need cleaning If it's only happened recently, it may be coinciding with the change to winter-diesel - Most people won't notice as it's usually a small difference, but if like me you can feel the difference between V-Power diesel and regular diesel, or even supermarket diesel and Shell/BP diesel, they that may be it. In my Yaris D4D, V-Power diesel vs Sainsburys/shell regular causes a noticeable loss of low-end torque but makes the engine run smoother; The power/torque curve is effectively pushed up by 500rpm or so and the engine feels much safer to push to higher RPMs because there's less vibration. Another thing could be if you tend to only drive it quite gently (e.g. following the shift arrows), it might be worth going on a long hard hoon somewhere on a weekend to get the engine and exhaust really really hot - This will help burn off any crud that has built up on the injectors, and can also help burn off any crap that could be dragging the variable turbo vanes. Toyota diesels tend to run quite cool which starts off good for efficiency but is actually really bad for them in the long term because gummy crud never gets burnt off.