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Cyker

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Cyker last won the day on November 24 2016

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About Cyker

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  • Toyota Model
    Yaris/03

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  1. Isn't the 1AD the one where they were doing engine replacements for the early gen ones due to bad oil circulation or something?
  2. The heavy clutch in the Corolla 2.0 D4D is normal - Everyone I've spoken to on here who's owned one has found the same! It seems to be a 'feature' of the 1CD-series engines - My dad's Verso has the same engine and the clutch on that also feels like it belongs on an artic lorry!
  3. You absolute nutter!! I can't wait to see it in action :D
  4. Bit late to this party but yeah, EGR valve issues quite common with us diesel owners and only fairly recently become a problem with petrol owners. I still don't know why the heck they even put them on petrol engines. They are stupid devices that actually make economy, reliability and all emissions except for NOx worse. Anyway rant over - Time for some more useful information! First thing is, don't bother going to Toyota about EGR issues - They will just replace them at extremely high cost, when all they actually need is a clean (Along with any throttle bodies that feed them). I don't know how hard it is to get at it in a HSD like the Prius, but certainly in my car it was easily accessible - 5-6 bolts, 5-10 minutes spraying and soaking with a load of carb cleaner to melt all the soot off (Carb Cleaner is like magic with burnt on soot! Just keep it away from paintwork!!), then another 20-odd minutes letting the thing dry out thoroughly. (Carb cleaner is combustible and if you don't let it dry your engine will knock quite alarmingly for a few seconds as it detonates during the compression cycle!). On mine its easy enough that I can do it myself despite having limited car mechanic skill. Most independent garages should be able to do the job if they know their way around a HSD, although it might be worth asking fellow owners (e.g. on this forum) if they have people they recommend who have done it before so they can just do it instead of wasting time poking around trying to find it! ;) The causes in diesel are purely that the EGR is sending sooty exhaust gas back into the engine which eventually causes smaller air feed tubes to get blocked up. This is exacerbated by town driving as the engine never gets hot enough to burn the soot off. In petrols unfortunate enough to have EGR valves, the problem is lessened because petrol engines waste lots of energy as heat which gets the engine to optimal operating temperature much faster than a diesel engine, and helps burn the soot off; However the HSD engines tend to have a harder time getting to temperature, esp. in town, as they keep getting switched off and cooling, and while petrol exhaust normally doesn't have much soot, because that exhaust gets fed back into the engine it can't burn all the petrol properly an soot levels are increased. <more ranting> All stupidness to reduce NOx production when all they need to actually do is stop the petrol engines running lean! But that would reduce fuel economy and increase CO2 production which, until now anyway, has been the governmental push behind engine development. But that's typical of the stupid knee-***** policies our government has been putting out; They should have left it at engine sizes and added another category for forced induction engines, since that was one of the things they were worried about with the old system that made them change to CO2 (e.g. 0.8L engines with lots of forced induction to make powerful cars that got around the tax!) I must admit I think the new system is probably fairer, although it does turn over a decade of environmental consciousness on its head. Now people will be either buying pre-2017 cars or not really caring about their cars emissions.
  5. 35psi I think is just a general industry standard. I'd say it's a good balance between fuel economy, tyre life and ride comfort for most cars. My Yaris is rated at something like 35psi front, 32 psi rear, but I normally run 38-40 psi at the front and 35-36 psi at the rear as I find it gives better fuel economy and tyre wear at the expense of ride comfort.
  6. Oh no mate, I was posting in reply to the OP, not you!! Your wossnames are fine! You are a well known knowledgeable person of HSDs, more so than I! :) I was just voicing my skepticism of their 'momentum braking' idea...! :P
  7. Ugh! They are wheel weights but fitted by morons! Those kind of weights are for steel wheels - Alloy wheels should have stick-on weights or you'll risk scratching up the rim surface! And the clip on is supposed to go on the inside of the rim anyway, not the outside! (So a) you don't see it and b) if you kerb the wheel there's less risk of damaging the rim or tyre sidewall!)
  8. I wouldn't recommend that; Firstly, you'll confuse the heck out of people behind you if you're continuously braking for no reason and you're just contributing to this image that hybrid drivers are inconsiderate jerks. Secondly, if you're braking you're slowing the car down - The regen process is supposedly only something like 40-50% efficient whereas if you maintain your momentum so you don't have to accelerate later you're conserving energy rather than trying to force the system to waste energy by scavenging t when there's no need to. If I misunderstood what you're trying to say, and you just mean brake earlier and gentler when stopping, then yeah, that is better and very efficient as the system can regen much more energy over a long gentle braking cycle than if you brake quite sharply. You also save on brake wear! But you might get the rusty-disc problem if you do this all the time so it's good to give it a hard brake now and then too.
  9. Ha! Yeah, I remember when they had a bus strike, the air quality there was the highest it had been all year!
  10. Oooh she so shiny
  11. Yeah, that was the given reason for the price hike IIRC. I'm glad they kept the old-style services as the gold and silver services, as if they don't change those 'extra' items you still get charged the same on the new ones!
  12. Gah! Stop giving them ideas!!!
  13. You do have to be careful things that aren't included in a normal service but need changing are covered; e.g. cabin filter, brake fluid, clutch fluid, gearbox oil, power steering fluid, MOT etc. I don't have a service plan, but take advantage of the very good value fixed-price servicing, and there's almost always some extra thing they say needs doing that isn't covered by the fixed-price servicing. I don't mind so much since I'm paying anyway, but it would annoy the heck out of me if I'd already paid and then get nickel-and-dimed, as my US friends would say, for silly little extra things that could have been predicted.
  14. Yeah that wasn't clear so thanks for the clarification! So you're guessing 14-15k on a set of tyres? That's not great, esp. on a HSD which are supposed to be quite gentle on their tyres. I have a diesel and they're known to be a bit harder on the driving wheels due to the torque, plus I tend to be a bit harder on the acceleration and braking, and with smaller & narrower wheels too, so I'd expect yours to last longer than mine! It may just be the tyre compound is softer in those bridgestones for the grip. Could also be the tyre pressures; I find my tyre wear is better at higher pressures than lower ones. You could try something with a harder compound like the Coopers I mentioned or the Conti PC2E's (Stay away from the 5's if you want longevity; Excellent grip but they're made of jelly!). The Conti Eco Contacts are supposed to be more hard wearing too. Jury's still out on these Dunlops but they've lasted pretty well so far...!
  15. Sorry, what was the extra £240 for??? But this can't be okay... just because it's an aftermarket part doesn't mean they can just break it and are absolved of any responsibility! I mean, if you had aftermarket alloys on and they broke one they can't just say it's not their responsibility because it's an aftermarket part surely!?