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About Cyker

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  1. That car should be fine, it's more you that I'd be worried about!! The longest journey I've done was 4 hours London to Exeter on the A303 and while it was fun my back was not happy with me and my shoulders were aching like heck. I don't know how people like lorry drivers and sales reps do these long distance runs day in day out! Make sure you adjust your seat properly before you set off and plan your rest breaks!!! If you have a dashcam, might be fun to record the journey too! :)
  2. You can waste a lot of money trying to figure this out; The Mk1 Yaris alone can use one of THREE different transponder systems - Valeo, Denso or Tokai Rika. The most straight-forward way of getting it sorted is to get Toyota to do it; They will be able to order the right part and code it in. Unless you're quite techie and don't mind wasting hours of research and trial-and-error, I'd recommend doing that. If you don't mind losing the remote functionality, you can just get your key cloned and cut by most auto locksmiths. If you want the remote, you MUST figure out what kind of transponder you have (It should be written on the original key somewhere, or you can try to infer it by the shape and style of the key blade), then you can try hunting around on eBay. I do not recommend this tho' as there is NO guarantee that even if you get the right transponder, that it will work. There seems to be something else that can stop the immobilizer being coded into the ECU. I was never able to code my 2nd hand eBay transponder to my ECU, although I managed to program it to remote lock and unlock the doors okay. Ended up getting the transponder of my original key cloned and stuck the chip inside the key case in front of the remote module! You can avoid the hassle and wasted money of this and buy a complete key from Toyota or just the Transponder module and attempt to program it yourself. I believe the programming instructions are slightly different depending on which of the 3 transponder systems you have. On a relevant tangent, My franken-eBay key broke last week (The buttons somehow tore off the PCB!!) and I bought a transponder module from the 'good' Toyota garage near me for £97 (The 'bad' one wanted £120!), sans key so I didn't need my V5C (Although for some reason it's £1 cheaper to buy a complete key+transponder?!). I was going to give them the £60 (The 'bad' Toyota garage wanted £80!!!) to code it but they were booked up for 3 weeks (!!) so I tried all the programming instructions on here and managed to do it myself! For reference, the instructions I used were: Remote Programming: 1. Open the drivers door. 2. Insert the pre-programmed working key into the ignition lock then remove it. Dont turn the ignition on. 3. Within 40 seconds: Close and open the drivers door twice, then 4. Insert the new key into the ignition then remove it. Dont turn the ignition on. 5. Within 40 seconds: Close and open the drivers door twice, then 6. Close the drivers door, then 7. Insert the new key into the ignition and turn the ignition on then off (Once to ADD or Twice to Erase All and Add), then 8. Remove the new key, then 9. The central locking should now lock then unlock (Once or Twice). 10. Press the lock and unlock on the remote at the same time for 1.5 seconds 11. Within 3 seconds, press the lock button on the remote for 1 second. 12. The central locking should lock and unlock once. 13. If the central locking locks then unlock twice then the sequence has not been successful. Try again. 14. Open the drivers door to complete the sequence. Immobiliser: 1. Enter the car and close all of the doors. 2. Simultaneously depress and release both the brake and accelerator pedals. 3. Within five seconds, insert a working pre-programmed key into the ignition cylinder, and turn to the "on" position. 4. Within fifteen seconds of turning the ignition, depress and release the accelerator pedal FIVE times for a primary key 5. Within twenty seconds, depress and release the brake pedal SIX times for a primary key. 6. Turn the ignition to the "off" position and immediately remove the key. 7. Within ten seconds of removing the key, insert the new key and turn it to the "on" position. 8. Within ten seconds, depress and release the accelerator pedal once. The security light will then flash for 60 seconds and then turn off. When the security light stops flashing the programming should be complete. 9. Start the vehicle to verify that programming was successful. This worked for a Mk1 Yaris T-Spirit D4D on a '54 plate equipped with a Tokai Rika system. The timing is pretty tight so you have to be quick and accurate; Took me 7 goes for the remote and 5 tries for the immobilizer!! YMMV!
  3. I seem to recall there was a supercharger kit for the Aygo....
  4. Yeah, it's a tiny japanese engine - It LIVES to be revved to the moon and back!! Once nice thing about it being 3-cylinder rather than 4 is it's got no secondary imbalance so it's super smooth at high revs. When I was driving one I swear it got smoother the higher I revved it For an extreme engine blast you could take Ant up on his invitation to the Toyota Sprint Series...
  5. A little gearstick wobble is okay as long as it's not too excessive. I also found the clutch bite quite high when I drove one, but the one I drove was pre-revised clutch so I still don't know if it's normal...! As for the high octane fuel, there isn't any harm in it but it probably won't deliver any noticeable benefits. Just using decent (i.e. non-supermarket) fuel is probably enough TBH.
  6. @Murk - Almost all deep-cycle batteries are AGM, but AGM does not necessarily mean a battery is AGM. The main difference is that car/starter batteries have lots of thin lead plates (high surface area = high peak current capacity but also high fragility) whereas deep-cycle batteries have much thicker lead plates but fewer of them (high density means they take longer to degrade and can survive deep drains without the plates dissolving as much). Either configuration can support being immersed in glass mats! @Bee - It is semi true, but not just limited to HSD's. Many modern cars put a lot more load on the battery when the car is off to run background ECU stuff; The biggest culprits are ones that use keyless entry because they are always actively range-finding the keyless fob. The problem is most common with the HSD's because their 12v battery is much smaller than normal car batteries, but I believe regular Auris owners have been bitten by the problem too. As an aside, deep-cycle batteries are NOT traction batteries - The traction battery in a HSD is the hefty nickel metal-hydride pack that drives the electric motors; Deep-cycle batteries are almost always lead-acid. (I don't even know why they still have a lead-acid battery in the HSD's anyway - Surely a second smaller NiMH pack would do the job just as well if not better?!)
  7. Niiice Any other TOC'ers there? PaulT and janey used to pop in here now and then...
  8. My god, what's going on?! Suddenly there are so many posts from people about missing master keys!! It's a bit of a bugger but you have some choices: You can use the valet key code to start the car but you CAN'T use it to program new keys into the ECU. If you want to get a new key from Toyota, they will probably tell you they need to replace the ECU with a full new set of keys - This is the 'proper' way of doing it when you have no master keys, but also costs the most. We're talking upwards of a £1000... *some* auto-locksmiths claim to have cracked the Toyota ECU and can program in transponder codes from a new key without needing a master key; However they usually require you to remove the ECU from the car and send it to them, or leave your car with them. Turnaround is usually 1-2 weeks and costs a few £100. However, auto-locksmiths with this ability are hard to find; We had a guy called Chris? who was advertising this service on here some years ago but I haven't seen him around for ages. The final option is to just frankenstein it - I did this with my Yaris: I bought a remote module from eBay but couldn't get it to start the car. However, I *was* able to program it to lock/unlock the doors! So what I did was get an auto-locksmith to clone my working key's code onto a blank RFID chip and stuck it inside the key case (I'm using a third-party flip-key case so there's lots of space inside.). So it uses the remote module's code to lock/unlock the doors and the cloned RFID to disable the immobilizer to start the car. It's a dirty dirty bodge, but it works...! (In hindsight I wish I'd just gone straight to Toyota as it cost almost as much making this bodge work after all the faff!) While we're at it, I would complain at whoever you bought the car from tho', esp. if they advertised the car having 2 keys, as they've basically lied and ripped you off. If it was a dealer, I'd try and get them to pay for at least some of it! To be fair, they may not have known; I ran into this when I was Yaris hunting - The dealer didn't even know the car had remote central locking because the previous owner had only given them a cloned key! It's a shame as the car was really nice aside from the typical shot alloys, but at the time I only knew about the £1000 option for getting a new remote key with no master keys, so I walked away.
  9. Yeah, it looks like the previous owner has had their original toyota key code cloned onto a generic blank. That red bit is the cavity where the RFID chip goes. There's been a few threads about this lately for some reason; The upshot is, if the code on that key is from a master key (Normally a black key with remote buttons) then there is a good chance it can be used to program a new toyota key into the ECU. The remote locking is separate and should work without needing another remote key. The big difference between generic blanks and real toyota keys is that the transponder code in real toyota master keys is fixed and can't be changed - It has to be programmed into the ECU for it to recognise it. With the generic blanks, they literally have no code, and autolocksmiths use a RFID reader to read the transponder code off an working key and burn it into a bank RFID chip which is then put into the blank.
  10. They're probably using the wrong programming procedure; There are three different types of ECU immobilizer from Toyotas of that era - Two of them, Denso and Valeo - are common and have similar programming behaviours. A third one (Which, annoyingly, my Yaris has, which is how I stumbled over this) is Tokai Rika which seems to be rarer as I have found precious little info on it, and seems to have a different programming procedure. I'm guessing you have one of these and that they're trying to use the denso/valeo programming procedure. But worst case, Toyota should be able to use their Techstream software to program the transponder code into the ECU directly if they can't do it with the press accelerator 6 times/press brake 6 times/sacrifice 3 chickens and a goat/etc way of programming it.
  11. It really depends what you're going to use it for; If you're going to be doing mostly short journeys around town, the petrol for sure. If you're going to be carrying heavy things or doing runs on motorways or fast A-roads the diesel would be better. My brother had the 2.0 D4D and it was a great car; The amount of torque that thing has is incredible. It honestly felt like you could tow a house with it! The only downside with it is the clutch is real heavy; It feels like it belongs in a truck! This is another reason to avoid it if you're going to mostly be doing urban driving; Your left knee will start to really hate you if you are in start-stop traffic for extended periods...! I think it was one of the earliest D4Ds to have a variable turbo as you can drive it in almost any gear and it doesn't care. It was fun leaving it in 4th at 20mph and hauling up to 50 Pretty easy to get 55mpg in it unless you're really hammering it. Super reliable too, as it's one of the earlier D4Ds from before they started kludging in extra things to make them comply with the newer emissions regulations. What do you have at the moment out of curiosity?
  12. You might be alright; I suspect the JMA key you mention is using a cloned transponder code from an original Toyota master key. If so, you can probably just order a new remote key from Toyota (They are the only people you can get original blank remote keys from!) and have them program the ECU with the new key's transponder code, as the cloned key's transponder should still allow that if it's a master code. IIRC you don't need an original remote key to program the remote central locking so the fact that the existing key doesn't have a remote isn't a problem. The codes for the remote locking and the immobilizer transponder are totally separate systems as far as I can tell. I currently have a kludged key for my Yaris - I bought a used remote locking module from eBay to try and get a new key on the cheap; I was able to program the remote central locking, but was never able to program in the transponder; In the end I got an autolocksmith to clone my existing key's transponder onto an RFID and super-glue it into the key case with the remote module; Works great but ultimately ended up costing near what buying one from Toyota would have cost, and with more hassle! (And I'm still wondering whether having two keys with the same transponder code is going to cause problems later...!)
  13. £30!??!?! They wanted £120 from me last time I tried to order a blank remote key!!!! And that was without the £60 programming charge!!
  14. Blimey! I must bow down to your comprehensive tyre manufacturer knowledge!!
  15. Yeah, it was rather conveniently introduced round about the time they raised the prices of all the normal services, those cunning gits I'm pretty sure it was deliberate because I think a lot of people like me would have stopped servicing their cars there if they were forced to pay the elevated rates. It's good Toyota realised that, but it's still a nasty gouge to new owners and people who don't know about the Silver/Gold services :(