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Cyker

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About Cyker

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  • Toyota Model
    Yaris/03

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  1. Is yours with the revised clutch? IIRC some Aygos had a too-small clutch which wore out too quickly. Last time I drove one it was a courtesy car and the bite point was so high it reminded me of the BSM car I learned in Wasn't sure if that was natural or whether previous drivers had just thrashed the poor thing!
  2. It's rare the EGR valve actually needs replacing... usually it's just clogged with soot and needs a good soak and scrub with some carb cleaner. When I had issues with my D4D, I also had the EGR cleaned with no effect. It turned out the EGR is connected to a throttle body that is also connected to the turbo, and there is a small port about the radius of a 5p that was so completely blocked with soot it looked like it wasn't there! It may be the case with yours so it's worth getting your mechanic to check that and give it good clean if needed too.
  3. £18.99??? That can't be for real; Either it is a second hand one or there is something wrong with it. AFAIK new blank remote fobs can only be gotten directly from Toyota and they are not cheap... As for coding them... With their older cars there is a procedure involving turning the key x number of times and pressing the accelerator y number of times etc. but I wasn't able to find a procedure for the Verso. TBH, since it is a one-off thing, I'd just get Toyota to do it. It might be possible to do it on the cheap but I tried with my Yaris and I wasted a whole load of time, hassle and annoyance, and only saved a tenner at the end of the day, and even then we had to bodge it!
  4. Get them to dunk it in a tyre bath to see where the air is leaking from?
  5. TSB's are effectively just information sharing on things that are known to happen and what to do about it, so that the mechanics don't have to go through a lengthy diagnostic procedure and trial/error fixes.
  6. If you still have a working key, I'd guess between £150 and £250 depending on the dealer. (My Dad's Verso key was £220, and I've had quotes for my Yaris ranging from £150 to £190, seemingly dependant on which Toyota dealer I ask and what time of day?!). If you can find the programming sequence for your car, you can also take a punt on eBay but I've tried it and it's more hassle than it's worth. If you have NO keys left for the car.... things get a lot harder. If you have lost-key cover as part of your insurance policy, get them to sort it out. Otherwise you're looking at £600+ to get someone to crack the ECU to inject a new transponder code, or £1000+ for Toyota to change the ECU and possibly the lock barrels IIRC?
  7. Please be careful - Diesel injectors run at waaay higher pressure than petrol ones!
  8. Mine's doing 2500-2600 at 70mph, so I'd guess 80'd be 3000?
  9. Wow, what a bargain, £5 for 36p of electricity! It does feel a bit discriminatory to me tho', and what are they going to do when even more electric cars start to appear? When the Tesla 3 comes out I'm expecting a noticeable increase in the numbers of electric cars on the roads - If they're having to discriminate against PHEV's already because there aren't enough charging points, what's going to happen then??
  10. Interesting... what Contis were those out of interest? I had a similar experience when I went from Premium Contact 2e's to PC5's - The PC2e's lasted nearly 30,000 miles but the 5's lasted closer to 7,000 IIRC! They were really nice - Quiet, grippy etc. but they wore down like F1 tyres! @eygo - That is awesome! I never knew that!!! Is it actually a standard or just something that manufacturers make up to compare within their own tyres?
  11. Wow this is a blast from the past I wonder what Em's up to these days??
  12. Surprised it didn't happen sooner TBH, although £5 for 20 minutes seems a bit steep!
  13. It's a shame they went with 15" rims on the Aygo; My Yaris has 14" rims and the tyres are sooo much cheaper! My old Contis were £70 for 15" and £50 for 14", and the Dunlops I have now (Great grip in wet and dry but noisy as hell!) were £45!!! Also, if you're only doing low speed journeys, it might be worth you looking at the PunctureSafe stuff I was trying out a while back. It's thick gel that is put in the tyre after it's fitted and balanced, and it sticks to the inside of the tyre, with a little bit that sloshes about in the bottom. When there's a puncture, it fills it in and sets and you don't have to worry about it for the life of the tyre. Doesn't work for shoulder or sidewall punctures - Just leaks out of them, but at least it's pretty obvious what's happened as the blue gel gets all over the wheel (Thankfully it's water soluble in its gel state and washes off surprisingly easily!) Seemed to work pretty well - In the 3(?) years I had it in I didn't get a single tread puncture, and never had to add more air to my tyres despite having to navigate a daily obstacle course of speed humps and pot holes. It does have some major downsides tho' - The sloshy bit is a moving mass and will make the car judder like mad (Exactly like if you had a wheel or two that had throw a wheel-weight!) when you hit higher speeds. I also noticed it had a damping effect - The car felt like it had a bit of extra drag, with shorter coasting distance and a small but noticeable drag under acceleration. I didn't put it in again with my current tyres because I couldn't deal with the vibrations at motorway speeds (Can't have been good for the suspension!), but already I have had 3 punctures and have had to go back to my old routine of checking and topping up the tyre pressures every month or so!
  14. I think the HSD's are set up for economy at the cost of performance so they tend to drop off after the initial kick of torque. The battery thing is for 2 main reasons; Life extension is one, the other is if they charged to 100% you'd lose the regen brakes so that 20% buffer is reserved for regen brakes only. (i.e. The only way to charge the battery 100% is by regen braking!)
  15. If you want a more fun Corolla, save up a bit more and trade in for a last-gen T-Sport - Bullet proof AND faaaast Or, if you want something that is more frugal, a Corolla 2.0D4D - The torque on those things is insane (You do need a very strong left foot for that clutch tho'! I strongly advise avoiding it if the car is going to be used exclusively around town, or you'll be walking in circles after a few months of ownership!) My brother had one and it was great; So much more solid-feeling than the Auris that replaced it. Wasn't super fast but it felt like you could tow a house . And even with that big 2.0 diesel lump it was still quieter than my Yaris (Oh god my Yaris is so loud now... these Dunlop tyres grip like the car's on rails but ugh the goddamned road noise!!! ) @Anthony - I used to think that, but I find the problem with a new car is unless you get it several years after they released it you're basically beta-testing for them. There have been so many models, even from Toyota, that have had annoying niggly issues from new. In some cases these have been fixed under warranty, but a lot of owners have really had to fight for things to be fixed as the dealer tries to wriggle out of it or declare it outside the warranty. Toyota aren't as bad as some other manufacturers, but they still don't make it easy... With a second-hand car, there is history, and things like the Honest John Good/Bad listing , which you can research to see if a particular car has any known issues, and how it is going to last. IMHO with a new car you're taking a bigger gamble as you won't have anywhere near as much info to research - You won't know what the known faults are until they happen to you! The trick with a second hand car is information: Research the model thoroughly, check the MOT (All you need is the model and registration!!), and before you commit to buy get a mechanical mate or something like the AA to check before you buy it to be sure. Checking it out is very important, as is the service history. With a new car there is nothing to check, so you just have to hope you got a good one! (Like back when they first started making Yarisususeses in France; You really didn't want a first-gen French one ). Just because it's new doesn't guarantee there won't be problems, and it's all the more heart-breaking if you do... Personally I just couldn't do it for the devaluation alone - Paying full whack and then knowing I'm losing several thousand pounds off the value just driving it out the dealership! As long as you do your research there is no real greater risk in buying second-hand than new, and you'll save a buttload of money to boot! I will agree the dealer-approved ones tend to be in better nick, but you still have to do your research and check them thoroughly in case they miss anything (It turns out they don't actually check the car any more thoroughly than they do during a service; As long as it has full dealer history it can go on their lot - You have no way of knowing if it's been misfueled or something!). I do kinda understand why some people swear by it tho' - I know a few people who replace their cars every three years on some sort of scheme where the dealer effectively guarantees a buyback price at the end of the lease as a trade in for a newer model.