AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Registered Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Cyker last won the day on November 24 2016

Cyker had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

274 Excellent

About Cyker

  • Rank
    Top Rank Poster!
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Contributor
  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model

Recent Profile Visitors

18,134 profile views
  1. The security light is for the immobilizer; I don't think any Mk1 comes with an alarm as standard. AFAIK all Mk1 Yarisusseses should come with 2 black keys and 1 grey key when new. However, when being sold second hand, the vast majority of them seem to only have one key, and sometimes it isn't even an original Toyota key! (At least that's what I found when I was looking for one!) If the grey key is Toyota branded, it is indeed a valet key; This sucks because you will not be able to program a new key into the ECU or make the remote central locking work, although you can probably clone the transponder in the valet key into a non-Toyota blank key just to have a spare. (Most decent auto-locksmiths can do this) If you bought it recently, complain to who you bought it from and make it Their Problem instead; You also might be able to contact the previous owner to see if they can find one of the black keys. (Hopefully they are nice people and not total dickheads) There are other options but TBH, if it is a 1999 petrol GLS, they are not worth pursuing: 1) The Proper Way - Replace the ECU and lock barrels with new ones and new keys; This will probably cost more than the car is currently worth 2) Find a specialist auto-locksmith who can crack the ECU to inject new master key transponder codes into it - This will probably cost half what the car is currently worth, require many weeks of the car not working (As you normally have to remove the ECU and send it off), and a lot of time spent trying to find one of these mythical specialists (We had one guy on here advertising this service but I haven't seen him for some number of years now...!)
  2. First thought is it was the DPF regen firing fuel into the exhaust at an inappropriate time for that Surprise! Airshow Smoke!! effect.
  3. Mmmm, at a guess either some sort of contamination is getting between the clutch plate and the flywheel, causing them to slip, or the release bearing is shagged and not letting the spring push back against the plate properly all the time.
  4. Oooh that's very cool :)
  5. It might be worth checking the engine mounts - I'm wondering if one of them has become slightly loose or the rubber has perished or something? 3 cylinders tend to be a bit rough at lower RPMs but I find they're smoother than 4 cylinders at higher RPMs, esp. smaller ones like the 1.0 VVTi (And that one loves to be revved!). @jocky: The newer Toyota CVT is purely belt-driven AFAIK; Where did you see the bit about it having a torque converter? The only modern locking torque converters I know of in Toyota cars is in the lovely GT86 auto
  6. The basic problem is that there is moisture inside the car; Maybe wet mats, a dodgy seal or small leak somewhere, whatever. See if you can figure out what's damp and fix that. Failing that, a quick and dirty bodge is to leave a largish bowl on the back seats full of [coffee/rice/those silica gel packets you get with everything] overnight - This will soak up ambient moisture in the air and hopefully reduce or stop the misting up come morning time. Don't forget to remove the bowl before you drive off. If this doesn't help, you need to nail down the source of the moisture first!
  7. Yeah, the belt doesn't cost much and if it's anything like my Yaris the job should be pretty easy (Hopefully it's not like my dad's!!)
  8. Almost certainly one of the belts; Very very common issue on the Yaris Mk1 as they get older. There are two belts - One that drives the alternator, water pump and A/C (If you have it), and a second smaller one that drives the PAS hydraulic pump. If they've not been changed for ages (Or at all), I'd recommend getting both changed and retensioned, otherwise just retensioning is probably enough.
  9. I check them whenever I wash the car (Which admittedly isn't getting done as frequently as it should....!). Used to change them every year or two (Usually OE, Bosch or what ever the heck Halfords ones are!), but the PIAA silicone ones I have now have been really durable; Not quite your 7 years but I think they're coming up to 4 or 5 now? Still as quiet as the day I bought them where usually I'd be expecting that horrible cat-screech on a damp, but not wet, windscreen by now, and they still clear water really well. If they haven't been used for a while they can smear badly for the first wipe because it picks up all the dust and I guess the blade is too soft to clear so much in one go, but by the return stroke it'll be clear. They really come into their own this time of year as the silicone layer they leave on the screen makes scraping the ice off soooo much easier. (To be fair I've had like, one day of that so far. Daan Saaaf we haven't even had temps even close to where winter tyres would out perform summer tyres yet!!)
  10. Do you mean the second seat-folding stage isn't locking down (This is really bad since if you stop suddenly the whole back seat will tilt forward and probably squish any passengers!). Have you looked at it? I suspect the carpet has shifted and is blocking the bar that the seat clamps onto - Fold down the back seats and then tilt the whole thing up and have a look. Hopefully the bars haven't been bent or the clamps snapped off or something crazy like that...
  11. I was just curious what people generally did; The third-party accident companies always seemed suspect as heck to me! Also, just to clarify, you can *report* an accident to your insurer *without claiming*. You have to be very explicit this is what you want to do when you speak to them tho otherwise they'll run it through as a claim by default. This is what my mate does whenever he's had an accident that wasn't his fault; That's why I was curious what you guys do in the event - He'll report the accident to his, but usually tries to deal directly with the other party's insurance. Apparently this is so he doesn't have to worry about paying the excess (I know from experience if you deal with yours you have to pay the excess and then they try and claim it back from the other's which takes aaages), and also so he has some leverage on the repair - i.e. if he isn't happy he tells them he'll go back to his and they'll end up having to pay even more! I've never tried it personally so I was curious what you lot do. (I don't even understand how you'd contact the other person's insurer; Surely they don't just believe you with no other evidence??)
  12. The rear of cars are generally MUCH stronger than the fronts so if the other car hasn't got much damage to the front you're probably okay. Still, it's their fault so I'd get it inspected and repaired/touched up anyway since you're not paying for it! Actually guys, tangential question: In the even of an accident that isn't your fault, who do you normally speak to? I've only ever spoken to my insurance company, but I've had mates who say it's better to deal with the person who hit you's insurance company and only notify their own (Apparently this is so they avoid having to pay any excess?? Is that a thing???) And then there's other weird things, like e.g. my club toyota (or whatever the heck it's called now) membership has an accident management helpline which apparently I can call in the even of an accident and they deal with it and liaise with involved parties? What's the difference? Any advantages disadvantages??
  13. Yeah just looks like the Aux/Fan belt has gone. Not an expensive part, even Toyota ones, and assuming it's like my D4D engine it should be easy to replace; A quick job! I replaced mine when trying to diagnose the brain-stabbing screeching noise mine was making when the engine was cold in cold/damp conditions (Didn't help; Turned out there is another, thinner, belt further down that drives the power-steering pump which was the cause! Also a cheap part; Might be worth getting both done if they've never been changed ever!) The only really important thing the Aux belt drives is the alternator so you miiight run out of power if you drive without it, otherwise I don't think it'll cause any further damage. Edit: Oh yeah, it does drive the coolant pump too! Again, not a major issue in this season for a short hop. The aux/fan belt was £18.57 and the power-steering one was £6.15 for my Yaris; I expect it's similar for the petrol one! My mechanic charged me a tenner to fit them, but he was giving the car an oil change at the time.
  14. That's not how science works!!!