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Les "Giddlepin" Ackroyd - 1951 to 2016  - A well missed friend to everyone. 

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About crofter

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  • Birthday 10/26/1938

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    Rav 4/3 Auto xt4
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  1. A 50% less in that time and in both wheels at the same time would certainly arouse suspicions with me and I can't imagine that they would both be the same re loss unless the b******s had a pressure gauge in the pocket. Clutching at straws I know with all the wet weather we have had and if steel wheels are fitted does anyone think it might be air loss around the rims as the front wheels carry more load than the back ones. Is the alternator belt tight enough. Are the battery terminal clamps tight on both posts and free of corrosion Might be worth having the battery drop tested as batteries can fail when they feel like it Del
  2. To add to above, do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose, tie it up. As to a compressor if you place one of the old pads back in and you can use a G clamp to push the piston back. Using the old pad this way will ensure that the piston is returned in the housing squarely. As you do this keep your eye on the brake fluid level in the reservoir As the fluid is very corrosive to any paintwork.I usually wrap a piece of rag around it in case it overflows By the way Ferodo pads are also very good this may help as it is a very good article and you will find most brake are put together this way
  3. I think the fuel filter is in the tank.Unless someone has put fuel in your tank from a container that was contaminated the chance of "dirty" fuel from a garage today is pretty remote. If you lift the rear seat is there a plate under there that gives access to the fuel pump/filter ?
  4. Welcome to the club Graham. I would first suggest you check the air filter element if it has not been changed recently as this can caused the same effect as the choke being " on" a petrol engine. You can try this by removing the air filter when the engine is running rough and see if it smooths out any Del
  5. A quick search show many suppliers like maybe Del
  6. Does the engine turn over with the starter, if so,you may be in with a chance.It has been known for an overheated engine to expand and seize but to loosen up when it has cooled down If it does not then take out the spark plugs and with them out try again I suggest that no-one has their head under the bonnet as It may be that if the head gasket has gone and water has leaked into a couple of the cylinders, it would shoot out with some force!!! If this does happen I would suggest having the head checked.Of course it would not have done the white metal bearings in the engine any good if it had seized and doubt very much if it would run very long after. 55k is not a great mileage and it is a sturdy engine so who knows so good luck with it Iain the engine will have some water in it due to the water pump being bolted on to the top half of it so if it starts a few seconds running will be OK before fitting a new water pump if all is well Hope this helps and good luck del
  7. maf sensor

    Forgot to mention in case you a unaware of it the MAF has a very fine filament across it and it is best left untouched and only cleaned by spraying it with something like carb cleaner although some have used cotton buds
  8. maf sensor

    Big welcome to the club first of all,David. Looking at your photo I would say that you would be quite safe to take the plate away from it's mounting as you will have no need to alter the cable adjustment Del
  9. A alternator puts out a 13/14 volts from tick over RPM and is unaffected by increased revs which can be read at the battery when the engine is running
  10. Not sure what this poster is after. A volt meter or multitester will supply this info. do you have either of these? The reason I ask is because both voltages can be checked from the battery terminals in situ so there would be no need to disconnect the alternator to check the output, also if your motor does not have a rev counter one could be fitted by an auto sparky Del
  11. Hi Mark and welcome to the club.I have always thought of the discs as steel parts and not as important as the pads that you put on. there are solid ones and what are termed as vented ones From past posts by a brake guru on here he was a believer in Ferodo pads,I myself am a big believer in their products and used then for a few (many) years without any problems As to the discs then it is all a matter of choice but to my mind for normal road driving solid ones are OK but some drivers seem to ride more on their brakes so maybe the vented ones suit them as they should cool down quicker after heavy braking. Look to the top of the RAV4 page and you will see a section "Hints and tips" which will help as there is little difference re what you want to do Del
  12. Could this be something as simple as a "sticky" pedal
  13. As an afterthought to Alan's excellent post,are you aware that brake fluid is very effective at stripping paint so watch none of it splashes anywhere other than it should and check that the new fluid has a rating of at least Dot 3 or 4 .I seem to remember the last time I did a job like that I only had to open the bleed nipple at the clutch and gravity did the rest without pushing down the pedal. I put that down to the fact that it was because it was a straight drop through a short pipe from one to the other Del
  14. Hi David,if there is one or two reservoirs where the brake one is then that is the answer. Is the fluid " dirty" and the reason for the change or do you feel it just want to do it? Del
  15. Nick check the pulley and see if it is shiny all the way down to the bottom of the "V" ? The belt should only be contacting the top half or so and not the bottom of it. A good belt will not stretch due to the fibres running inside it.Pulleys are made much lighter now and I suppose it is just possible that an over-tightened belt could cause the sides to open up and give rise to your problem Del