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Familiar Story, Intermittent Loss Of Acceleration, D4d Rav


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#1 a7peh

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 02:05 PM

Hi,

I have read a lot of discussion on the forum about the d4d problem with intemittent loss of acceleration and would like to know if replacing the suction control valves is the commonest solution? If you drive without exceeding 3000rpm. there is no apparent problem. When you accelerate hard and change up a gear then the power disappears, especially from 1st. to 2nd.. If you keep your foot flat down the power sometimes cuts in jerkily after a while but not often. Going up hill exagerates the problem and overtaking at speed has become a lottery.

I have tried the simple solutions like fuel filter and diesel additives without success, but have read too many expensive horror stories to go to a Main Dealer.

Any advice from fellow members would be much appreciated as I am getting to the stage where I am considering changing the car even though I think they are superb vehicles and have driven a Rav4 for the last 14 years. ( I had a 2.0 petrol for 10 years from new and never had to replace anything other than a fuse)

Thanking you in anticipation of your kind replies.

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#2 igormus

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 03:54 PM

Hi,

I have read a lot of discussion on the forum about the d4d problem with intemittent loss of acceleration and would like to know if replacing the suction control valves is the commonest solution? If you drive without exceeding 3000rpm. there is no apparent problem. When you accelerate hard and change up a gear then the power disappears, especially from 1st. to 2nd.. If you keep your foot flat down the power sometimes cuts in jerkily after a while but not often. Going up hill exagerates the problem and overtaking at speed has become a lottery.

I have tried the simple solutions like fuel filter and diesel additives without success, but have read too many expensive horror stories to go to a Main Dealer.

Any advice from fellow members would be much appreciated as I am getting to the stage where I am considering changing the car even though I think they are superb vehicles and have driven a Rav4 for the last 14 years. ( I had a 2.0 petrol for 10 years from new and never had to replace anything other than a fuse)

Thanking you in anticipation of your kind replies.


Hello mate
do not speed up with SCV replacing -- are you sure the're faulty? You can test them at first.
You've to be focused on :
- EGR valve condition;
- Alternator chacrging voltage;
- Flexibility of T/C vanes and condition of vacuum tubes;
- COnditio nof your injectors.
Cheers/Igor

#3 a7peh

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 05:33 PM

Hi Igor,

thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. I have read about testing the scv's electronically, and a couple of members have said that they have tested OK, but carried on and replaced them and solved the problem of intermittent power loss. I am OK with mechanical problems, but electrics have me baffled. I got the impression that the d4d engine has an achilles heel, being the scv's. The problem with this problem is that it is intermittent so there is always the doubt in the back of the mind that it is mechanical. I'm amazed that Toyota themselves have not got the immediate answer from all the feedback from Dealers concerning this problem, and I am not really in a position at the moment to chuck money away paying expensive Dealer repair bills.

Kind regards, a7peh

Hi,

I have read a lot of discussion on the forum about the d4d problem with intemittent loss of acceleration and would like to know if replacing the suction control valves is the commonest solution? If you drive without exceeding 3000rpm. there is no apparent problem. When you accelerate hard and change up a gear then the power disappears, especially from 1st. to 2nd.. If you keep your foot flat down the power sometimes cuts in jerkily after a while but not often. Going up hill exagerates the problem and overtaking at speed has become a lottery.

I have tried the simple solutions like fuel filter and diesel additives without success, but have read too many expensive horror stories to go to a Main Dealer.

Any advice from fellow members would be much appreciated as I am getting to the stage where I am considering changing the car even though I think they are superb vehicles and have driven a Rav4 for the last 14 years. ( I had a 2.0 petrol for 10 years from new and never had to replace anything other than a fuse)

Thanking you in anticipation of your kind replies.[/quote]

Hello mate
do not speed up with SCV replacing -- are you sure the're faulty? You can test them at first.
You've to be focused on :
- EGR valve condition;
- Alternator chacrging voltage;
- Flexibility of T/C vanes and condition of vacuum tubes;
- COnditio nof your injectors.
Cheers/Igor
[/quote]

#4 igormus

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 06:05 PM

[quote name='a7peh' date='Oct 25 2009, 05:33 PM' post='939413']
Hi Igor,

thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. I have read about testing the scv's electronically, and a couple of members have said that they have tested OK, but carried on and replaced them and solved the problem of intermittent power loss. I am OK with mechanical problems, but electrics have me baffled. I got the impression that the d4d engine has an achilles heel, being the scv's. The problem with this problem is that it is intermittent so there is always the doubt in the back of the mind that it is mechanical. I'm amazed that Toyota themselves have not got the immediate answer from all the feedback from Dealers concerning this problem, and I am not really in a position at the moment to chuck money away paying expensive Dealer repair bills.

Kind regards, a7peh


You know -- the intermediate problem is the RESULT and you ve to finf th ereason but not to change all parts :)
check with all the items chain give to you first, after come back with results. CHeers/Igor

#5 a7peh

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 07:45 PM

Hi,

Just fitted a couple of SCV's which I bought second hand off e-Bay for 35.00. What an awkward job. Most of it was done blindfold with a 5mm. Allen key. I was praying that I didn't drop one of the Allen screws in the engine compartment, but anyway I got the pair of them in.

Fired up the engine OK, but the problem was just the same, loss of acceleration etc.. So I was pretty depressed to say the least. I am taking the car to a local tuning specialist tomorrow to see if he can shed any light.

All these years I have been banging on about Toyota reliability to my friends, but now I am not so sure. If all fails maybe I will replace with a KIA CEED with 7 years warranty (only joking, I love my Rav4, but I wish I could get it going properly again ).

#6 PhilGee

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 01:13 PM

Just a thought, were the SCV's you bought new or were they used? Maybe they are faulty too. 9 times out of 10 whenever we get a Rav in with loss of power, its the SCV's at fault. Sometimes they will store a fault code but not always. If your garage has a good diagnostic machine then it will show the live data of the sensors etc working which should give them a good idea of whats going wrong. Normally with an SCV fault you can see the internal fuel pressure drop right off, indicating them as failing. As for testing them, i've never come across ones that are not within spec. One of the faults with them is due to sticking because of a size tolerance failure which you wouldnt pick up on an electrical test.
Let us know how you get on.

#7 igormus

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 02:59 PM

Hi,

Just fitted a couple of SCV's which I bought second hand off e-Bay for 35.00. What an awkward job. Most of it was done blindfold with a 5mm. Allen key. I was praying that I didn't drop one of the Allen screws in the engine compartment, but anyway I got the pair of them in.

Fired up the engine OK, but the problem was just the same, loss of acceleration etc.. So I was pretty depressed to say the least. I am taking the car to a local tuning specialist tomorrow to see if he can shed any light.

All these years I have been banging on about Toyota reliability to my friends, but now I am not so sure. If all fails maybe I will replace with a KIA CEED with 7 years warranty (only joking, I love my Rav4, but I wish I could get it going properly again ).



hi
yoou ve followed a wrong way to change parts. what are SCVs -- these are simply valves governed by an electricity via their solenoids. the SVC simple test is to be done by multitester to read their resistance and no more. Another possible issue might be with alternator voltage regulator -- in case voltage plays then each SCV solenoid spring can not be held by an electric force and the valve stem plays, as well giving you pulsation on the pump suction resulting your observations of poor acceleration. Now you ve lost 35 pounds for nothing. DO not spend any more but check with items listed by me :)
CHeers/Igor

#8 a7peh

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 08:20 PM

Just a thought, were the SCV's you bought new or were they used? Maybe they are faulty too. 9 times out of 10 whenever we get a Rav in with loss of power, its the SCV's at fault. Sometimes they will store a fault code but not always. If your garage has a good diagnostic machine then it will show the live data of the sensors etc working which should give them a good idea of whats going wrong. Normally with an SCV fault you can see the internal fuel pressure drop right off, indicating them as failing. As for testing them, i've never come across ones that are not within spec. One of the faults with them is due to sticking because of a size tolerance failure which you wouldnt pick up on an electrical test.
Let us know how you get on.

I bought the SCV's off a guy in Barnsley who had them on e-Bay. He said that he had bought a new kit from Toyota fitted them and it had not solved the problem so he assumed that the SCV's which he had taken out and that I have put in my car were OK. The only difference visually was that they had different alpha-numeric codes on them and they looked a bit cleaner than the ones I took out.

My son took the car today to a performance tuning specialist nearby. He put it on the diagnostic machine which indicated a history of loss of fuel pressure. He said that one of the injectors was showing a different reading to the other three and that I should take the car back in tomorrow for him to inspect the injectors. I am keeping my fingers crossed.

#9 a7peh

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 08:23 PM

Hi,

Just fitted a couple of SCV's which I bought second hand off e-Bay for 35.00. What an awkward job. Most of it was done blindfold with a 5mm. Allen key. I was praying that I didn't drop one of the Allen screws in the engine compartment, but anyway I got the pair of them in.

Fired up the engine OK, but the problem was just the same, loss of acceleration etc.. So I was pretty depressed to say the least. I am taking the car to a local tuning specialist tomorrow to see if he can shed any light.

All these years I have been banging on about Toyota reliability to my friends, but now I am not so sure. If all fails maybe I will replace with a KIA CEED with 7 years warranty (only joking, I love my Rav4, but I wish I could get it going properly again ).



hi
yoou ve followed a wrong way to change parts. what are SCVs -- these are simply valves governed by an electricity via their solenoids. the SVC simple test is to be done by multitester to read their resistance and no more. Another possible issue might be with alternator voltage regulator -- in case voltage plays then each SCV solenoid spring can not be held by an electric force and the valve stem plays, as well giving you pulsation on the pump suction resulting your observations of poor acceleration. Now you ve lost 35 pounds for nothing. DO not spend any more but check with items listed by me :)
CHeers/Igor


Hi Igor,

I have taken on board your sound advice and taken the car to a tuning specialist who has a diaqnostic machine. He had noticed that one of the injectors is giving a different reading to the other three. He is going to visually inspect the injectors tomorrow.

Many thanks, Peter.

#10 igormus

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 07:03 AM

Hi,

Just fitted a couple of SCV's which I bought second hand off e-Bay for 35.00. What an awkward job. Most of it was done blindfold with a 5mm. Allen key. I was praying that I didn't drop one of the Allen screws in the engine compartment, but anyway I got the pair of them in.

Fired up the engine OK, but the problem was just the same, loss of acceleration etc.. So I was pretty depressed to say the least. I am taking the car to a local tuning specialist tomorrow to see if he can shed any light.

All these years I have been banging on about Toyota reliability to my friends, but now I am not so sure. If all fails maybe I will replace with a KIA CEED with 7 years warranty (only joking, I love my Rav4, but I wish I could get it going properly again ).



hi
yoou ve followed a wrong way to change parts. what are SCVs -- these are simply valves governed by an electricity via their solenoids. the SVC simple test is to be done by multitester to read their resistance and no more. Another possible issue might be with alternator voltage regulator -- in case voltage plays then each SCV solenoid spring can not be held by an electric force and the valve stem plays, as well giving you pulsation on the pump suction resulting your observations of poor acceleration. Now you ve lost 35 pounds for nothing. DO not spend any more but check with items listed by me :)
CHeers/Igor


Hi Igor,

I have taken on board your sound advice and taken the car to a tuning specialist who has a diaqnostic machine. He had noticed that one of the injectors is giving a different reading to the other three. He is going to visually inspect the injectors tomorrow.

Many thanks, Peter.


Hi Peter
OK - now you are on the right way, then :) --- but note the one injector is the first signal to check all together + their spray calibration.
Good Luck + please us posted with the result.
Igor

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