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a7peh

Familiar Story, Intermittent Loss Of Acceleration, D4d Rav

21 posts in this topic

Hi,

I have read a lot of discussion on the forum about the d4d problem with intemittent loss of acceleration and would like to know if replacing the suction control valves is the commonest solution? If you drive without exceeding 3000rpm. there is no apparent problem. When you accelerate hard and change up a gear then the power disappears, especially from 1st. to 2nd.. If you keep your foot flat down the power sometimes cuts in jerkily after a while but not often. Going up hill exagerates the problem and overtaking at speed has become a lottery.

I have tried the simple solutions like fuel filter and diesel additives without success, but have read too many expensive horror stories to go to a Main Dealer.

Any advice from fellow members would be much appreciated as I am getting to the stage where I am considering changing the car even though I think they are superb vehicles and have driven a Rav4 for the last 14 years. ( I had a 2.0 petrol for 10 years from new and never had to replace anything other than a fuse)

Thanking you in anticipation of your kind replies.

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Hi,

I have read a lot of discussion on the forum about the d4d problem with intemittent loss of acceleration and would like to know if replacing the suction control valves is the commonest solution? If you drive without exceeding 3000rpm. there is no apparent problem. When you accelerate hard and change up a gear then the power disappears, especially from 1st. to 2nd.. If you keep your foot flat down the power sometimes cuts in jerkily after a while but not often. Going up hill exagerates the problem and overtaking at speed has become a lottery.

I have tried the simple solutions like fuel filter and diesel additives without success, but have read too many expensive horror stories to go to a Main Dealer.

Any advice from fellow members would be much appreciated as I am getting to the stage where I am considering changing the car even though I think they are superb vehicles and have driven a Rav4 for the last 14 years. ( I had a 2.0 petrol for 10 years from new and never had to replace anything other than a fuse)

Thanking you in anticipation of your kind replies.

Hello mate

do not speed up with SCV replacing -- are you sure the're faulty? You can test them at first.

You've to be focused on :

- EGR valve condition;

- Alternator chacrging voltage;

- Flexibility of T/C vanes and condition of vacuum tubes;

- COnditio nof your injectors.

Cheers/Igor

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Hi Igor,

thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. I have read about testing the scv's electronically, and a couple of members have said that they have tested OK, but carried on and replaced them and solved the problem of intermittent power loss. I am OK with mechanical problems, but electrics have me baffled. I got the impression that the d4d engine has an achilles heel, being the scv's. The problem with this problem is that it is intermittent so there is always the doubt in the back of the mind that it is mechanical. I'm amazed that Toyota themselves have not got the immediate answer from all the feedback from Dealers concerning this problem, and I am not really in a position at the moment to chuck money away paying expensive Dealer repair bills.

Kind regards, a7peh

Hi,

I have read a lot of discussion on the forum about the d4d problem with intemittent loss of acceleration and would like to know if replacing the suction control valves is the commonest solution? If you drive without exceeding 3000rpm. there is no apparent problem. When you accelerate hard and change up a gear then the power disappears, especially from 1st. to 2nd.. If you keep your foot flat down the power sometimes cuts in jerkily after a while but not often. Going up hill exagerates the problem and overtaking at speed has become a lottery.

I have tried the simple solutions like fuel filter and diesel additives without success, but have read too many expensive horror stories to go to a Main Dealer.

Any advice from fellow members would be much appreciated as I am getting to the stage where I am considering changing the car even though I think they are superb vehicles and have driven a Rav4 for the last 14 years. ( I had a 2.0 petrol for 10 years from new and never had to replace anything other than a fuse)

Thanking you in anticipation of your kind replies.

Hello mate

do not speed up with SCV replacing -- are you sure the're faulty? You can test them at first.

You've to be focused on :

- EGR valve condition;

- Alternator chacrging voltage;

- Flexibility of T/C vanes and condition of vacuum tubes;

- COnditio nof your injectors.

Cheers/Igor

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Hi Igor,

thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. I have read about testing the scv's electronically, and a couple of members have said that they have tested OK, but carried on and replaced them and solved the problem of intermittent power loss. I am OK with mechanical problems, but electrics have me baffled. I got the impression that the d4d engine has an achilles heel, being the scv's. The problem with this problem is that it is intermittent so there is always the doubt in the back of the mind that it is mechanical. I'm amazed that Toyota themselves have not got the immediate answer from all the feedback from Dealers concerning this problem, and I am not really in a position at the moment to chuck money away paying expensive Dealer repair bills.

Kind regards, a7peh

You know -- the intermediate problem is the RESULT and you ve to finf th ereason but not to change all parts :)

check with all the items chain give to you first, after come back with results. CHeers/Igor

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Hi,

Just fitted a couple of SCV's which I bought second hand off e-Bay for £35.00. What an awkward job. Most of it was done blindfold with a 5mm. Allen key. I was praying that I didn't drop one of the Allen screws in the engine compartment, but anyway I got the pair of them in.

Fired up the engine OK, but the problem was just the same, loss of acceleration etc.. So I was pretty depressed to say the least. I am taking the car to a local tuning specialist tomorrow to see if he can shed any light.

All these years I have been banging on about Toyota reliability to my friends, but now I am not so sure. If all fails maybe I will replace with a KIA CEED with 7 years warranty (only joking, I love my Rav4, but I wish I could get it going properly again ).

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Just a thought, were the SCV's you bought new or were they used? Maybe they are faulty too. 9 times out of 10 whenever we get a Rav in with loss of power, its the SCV's at fault. Sometimes they will store a fault code but not always. If your garage has a good diagnostic machine then it will show the live data of the sensors etc working which should give them a good idea of whats going wrong. Normally with an SCV fault you can see the internal fuel pressure drop right off, indicating them as failing. As for testing them, i've never come across ones that are not within spec. One of the faults with them is due to sticking because of a size tolerance failure which you wouldnt pick up on an electrical test.

Let us know how you get on.

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Hi,

Just fitted a couple of SCV's which I bought second hand off e-Bay for £35.00. What an awkward job. Most of it was done blindfold with a 5mm. Allen key. I was praying that I didn't drop one of the Allen screws in the engine compartment, but anyway I got the pair of them in.

Fired up the engine OK, but the problem was just the same, loss of acceleration etc.. So I was pretty depressed to say the least. I am taking the car to a local tuning specialist tomorrow to see if he can shed any light.

All these years I have been banging on about Toyota reliability to my friends, but now I am not so sure. If all fails maybe I will replace with a KIA CEED with 7 years warranty (only joking, I love my Rav4, but I wish I could get it going properly again ).

hi

yoou ve followed a wrong way to change parts. what are SCVs -- these are simply valves governed by an electricity via their solenoids. the SVC simple test is to be done by multitester to read their resistance and no more. Another possible issue might be with alternator voltage regulator -- in case voltage plays then each SCV solenoid spring can not be held by an electric force and the valve stem plays, as well giving you pulsation on the pump suction resulting your observations of poor acceleration. Now you ve lost 35 pounds for nothing. DO not spend any more but check with items listed by me :)

CHeers/Igor

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Just a thought, were the SCV's you bought new or were they used? Maybe they are faulty too. 9 times out of 10 whenever we get a Rav in with loss of power, its the SCV's at fault. Sometimes they will store a fault code but not always. If your garage has a good diagnostic machine then it will show the live data of the sensors etc working which should give them a good idea of whats going wrong. Normally with an SCV fault you can see the internal fuel pressure drop right off, indicating them as failing. As for testing them, i've never come across ones that are not within spec. One of the faults with them is due to sticking because of a size tolerance failure which you wouldnt pick up on an electrical test.

Let us know how you get on.

I bought the SCV's off a guy in Barnsley who had them on e-Bay. He said that he had bought a new kit from Toyota fitted them and it had not solved the problem so he assumed that the SCV's which he had taken out and that I have put in my car were OK. The only difference visually was that they had different alpha-numeric codes on them and they looked a bit cleaner than the ones I took out.

My son took the car today to a performance tuning specialist nearby. He put it on the diagnostic machine which indicated a history of loss of fuel pressure. He said that one of the injectors was showing a different reading to the other three and that I should take the car back in tomorrow for him to inspect the injectors. I am keeping my fingers crossed.

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Hi,

Just fitted a couple of SCV's which I bought second hand off e-Bay for £35.00. What an awkward job. Most of it was done blindfold with a 5mm. Allen key. I was praying that I didn't drop one of the Allen screws in the engine compartment, but anyway I got the pair of them in.

Fired up the engine OK, but the problem was just the same, loss of acceleration etc.. So I was pretty depressed to say the least. I am taking the car to a local tuning specialist tomorrow to see if he can shed any light.

All these years I have been banging on about Toyota reliability to my friends, but now I am not so sure. If all fails maybe I will replace with a KIA CEED with 7 years warranty (only joking, I love my Rav4, but I wish I could get it going properly again ).

hi

yoou ve followed a wrong way to change parts. what are SCVs -- these are simply valves governed by an electricity via their solenoids. the SVC simple test is to be done by multitester to read their resistance and no more. Another possible issue might be with alternator voltage regulator -- in case voltage plays then each SCV solenoid spring can not be held by an electric force and the valve stem plays, as well giving you pulsation on the pump suction resulting your observations of poor acceleration. Now you ve lost 35 pounds for nothing. DO not spend any more but check with items listed by me :)

CHeers/Igor

Hi Igor,

I have taken on board your sound advice and taken the car to a tuning specialist who has a diaqnostic machine. He had noticed that one of the injectors is giving a different reading to the other three. He is going to visually inspect the injectors tomorrow.

Many thanks, Peter.

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Hi,

Just fitted a couple of SCV's which I bought second hand off e-Bay for £35.00. What an awkward job. Most of it was done blindfold with a 5mm. Allen key. I was praying that I didn't drop one of the Allen screws in the engine compartment, but anyway I got the pair of them in.

Fired up the engine OK, but the problem was just the same, loss of acceleration etc.. So I was pretty depressed to say the least. I am taking the car to a local tuning specialist tomorrow to see if he can shed any light.

All these years I have been banging on about Toyota reliability to my friends, but now I am not so sure. If all fails maybe I will replace with a KIA CEED with 7 years warranty (only joking, I love my Rav4, but I wish I could get it going properly again ).

hi

yoou ve followed a wrong way to change parts. what are SCVs -- these are simply valves governed by an electricity via their solenoids. the SVC simple test is to be done by multitester to read their resistance and no more. Another possible issue might be with alternator voltage regulator -- in case voltage plays then each SCV solenoid spring can not be held by an electric force and the valve stem plays, as well giving you pulsation on the pump suction resulting your observations of poor acceleration. Now you ve lost 35 pounds for nothing. DO not spend any more but check with items listed by me :)

CHeers/Igor

Hi Igor,

I have taken on board your sound advice and taken the car to a tuning specialist who has a diaqnostic machine. He had noticed that one of the injectors is giving a different reading to the other three. He is going to visually inspect the injectors tomorrow.

Many thanks, Peter.

Hi Peter

OK - now you are on the right way, then :) --- but note the one injector is the first signal to check all together + their spray calibration.

Good Luck + please us posted with the result.

Igor

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If he'd bought brand new from toyota and then taken them out, they should really still look like new. Heard of a few issues with injectors but never had any give the symptoms you are explaining.

Has it had a fuel filter change as per service schedule? I've known a few collapse after time causing a drop in fuel pressure.

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Just read first post, has had filter. Rules that out i guess.

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If he'd bought brand new from toyota and then taken them out, they should really still look like new. Heard of a few issues with injectors but never had any give the symptoms you are explaining.

Has it had a fuel filter change as per service schedule? I've known a few collapse after time causing a drop in fuel pressure.

hi

there are many reasons for one outcome.

The idea is to locate it fastly and prevent money losing.

cheers/Igor

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Just read first post, has had filter. Rules that out i guess.

Hi Phil,

Yes I tried a new filter but that had no apparent effect. The SCV's were the bloke's original ones, he left the new ones in( I'm not surprised they are such a b****** to get in out) , but he said it was a very low mileage Rav4 and they did look in slightly better condition than mine.

The tuning mechanic has contacted me again, and said that the diagnostics point to a low pressure fueling problem which he thinks is electrical rather than mechanical. He is having an auto electrician have a look at it tomorrow. He thinks that the problem could be the low pressure pump in the tank but is not at all certain.

I am now wondering whether to bite the bullit and buy a new set of SCV's and try them. Do most D4d's have to have their SCV's replaced at some time, or is it a lottery depending upon the quality of diesel that has been put through them?

Regards, Peter.

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Hi Phil, i have a RAV4 and have been getting similar problems with lack of power mainly from 3rd gear up but at any revs!

had it diagnosed at a local garage near work and the report was the fuel pump should be operating around 900 / 1250psi ( I think its psi ) but when the power is lacking its only doing 250psi. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced such a problem or it may be something else as a new pump is in exess of £800!!!!!!!

Regards Paul

Oh b.t.w its a RAV4 2.0 D4D 2001 and the error code was P1228

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Hi,

Got the car back from the diagnostics centre without any improvement. He said that to take the injectors out and inspect would be an expensive exercise in that he would have to put new ones in at a cost of about £800. He advised me to take it to a Toyota dealer and let them have a go.

The car was running terribly, I could hardly get up the hill to my house, permanently in Limp mode.

Replaced my original SCV's, took me about 1/2 an hour, and started her up. THE CAR RAN PERFECT, JUST LIKE NEW!

Keeping my fingers crossed. I wonder if I got rid of some residue on the valves when I took them out. I thought that there may have been a bit of gungy deposit on them when I took them out, but I didn't know if I had picked it up off the engine block when removing them.

You live and learn, I will report back after a few hundred miles or so.

I would like to thank everybody for their kind advice, it is a great thing to be able to discuss your problems with other unbiased Rav owners.

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Hi,

Is it still running okay, I have the exact same problem?

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I don't know the dealer price for SCV's but you can buy genuine Denso valves for £170 a pair (Ebay etc)

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rhino trikes.

try a bottle of archoil ar6600 turbo cleaner through a hot engine. it sorted the hesitation in my rav.

its 30 quid,but what you got to lose? 30 quid!!

get the engine hot and pour into tank with enough fuel for a 1 hrs run down a fast road.

good luck

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There's 2 threads running on the same subject . Could one be locked?

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