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How To Clean An Auris T180 / Sr180 Egr Valve, This Could Be A Good Ide


Rick D4D
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Thanks for the tip on cleaning the Dyson Rick, I'll give it a go.

Regarding MPG, it's about the same, possibly slightly better, but I've only had it on a couple of weeks so I'll keep you posted.

Of course it drops like a stone when you give it some welly, but that's only to be expected and a small price to pay for the extra pickup and torque.

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my t180 is only 10220miles old and i only use v power :) prob wont be dirty----ish

Well my T180 (avensis tho) has been fed nothing but the best apart from the Odd tank here or there when I couldnt find a Shell or BP and has done 28K or there abouts.

Needless to say it was filthy and full of soot. Also needless to say its clean now.

before:

manifold

th_IMGP3227Medium.jpg

Valve

th_IMGP3228Medium.jpg

After

valve

th_IMGP3229Medium.jpg

Manifold

th_IMGP3236Medium.jpg

The side holes in the mainfold were completely blocked and the main hole about about 2/3 to 3/4 of its correct size. I only used about a third of a can of carb cleaner, so I dont know if im less trigger happy then everyone else?

Some people have noted, that when they put it back together and start it, it makes and awefull racket. This is probaby due to the carb cleaner sovlent still in the inlet etc igniting before the fuel is injected due to the compression as its more flamable. But I think i have a solution to help people not fill there pants when the cars startst and makes racket after cleaning. Once I was happy with how clean it was and about about to put it back together I used one of the those little jet lighters and flammed off any solvents, only took a few seconds. And when I started it after no different to any other day.

edited to sort pics

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If anyone wants to replace the gaskets when doing this I think the part numbers are:

25627-26020 (The one with 4 holes)

25633-0R010 (The one on top of the egr valvebody)

and

25628-0R010 (The one on the the engine)

But in all honesty, unless you wreck them taking the egr off (very unlikely) they're perfectly reusable so long as you give them a good cleanup.

(Don't think I was too triggerhappy with the carb cleaner :lol: , it was probably due to the fact the tin was nearly ten years old!)

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a self cleaning egr valve would be awesome lol....... if only........ or no egr valve at all

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a self cleaning egr valve would be awesome lol....... if only........ or no egr valve at all

Hmm, no egr, now you're talking!

The egr valve on my car clatters like an old tractor.

Is this normal?

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Just like to add my pics. My car has 30336 miles and has only been run on esso or Shell stuff. I was suprised at how much crud was in the EGR valve, housing and pipe. I'm suprised anything flows at all.

p1020966b.jpgp1020964b.jpg

And cleaned:

p1020968b.jpgp1020975b.jpg

p1020976b.jpgp1020972b.jpg

Now boozehound has only 10220 miles on his clock. So is this something that should be done every service? Seems a bit much that this is required every year. Are all diesels like this?

After putting back together, mine didn't start first time. But on the second try loads of white smoke and nasty smell. Also on a side note i'm hoping this helps with my cold starting problem I have been having. Who knows.....................

Anyways while I was at it, due to another thread, I removed my MAF Sensor to give that a once over. But not sure if mine was dirty or not. Looked pretty clean to me. But I dowsed it with cleaner never the less.

p1020951c.jpgp1020953c.jpg

p1020954c.jpg

Once again thanks to Rick D4D for the heads up................ :thumbsup:

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on the maf there is 2 small wires inside the tube that you missed, I gave mine a quick clean with carb cleaner but TBH was very ginger as I dont want to damage this.

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Had a mammoth re-gen cycle this morning.

Sitting in traffic for about 40mins and i noticed smoke/steam coming up over the wind screen wipers. I thought my car was on fire initially.

I wasn't moving and the oil temp was still cold.

Then as soon as i got out of town and onto some open road i keep the revs at about 2.2k, max cylinder pressure and the smoke was immense!

Its happened to me once before in very cold conditions. The sudden rush of heat for a re-gen cycling meeting cold water vapour in the exhaust produces loads of steam.

However with this re-gen it lasted a long time. Maybe 40 seconds of constant heavy smoke accompanied by a very distinct soot burning smell. I've never had that before. The only time i've noticed it before it was just 10 seconds of steam. That time and this time anyone driving behind me always falls further back. I reckon they think my car is about to explode.

I will be intrigued to clean my EGR now. Possibly next weekend, after i get some carb cleaner.

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on the maf there is 2 small wires inside the tube that you missed, I gave mine a quick clean with carb cleaner but TBH was very ginger as I dont want to damage this.

Aah son of a .............. :censor: Well at least removing the MAF is a lot quicker than the EGR Valve. In my defense the video I watched on You Tube, the guy didn't mention anything about 2 wires in the tube. But i'm suprised I didn't have a peek down there myself.

Thanks for the info....................

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Had a mammoth re-gen cycle this morning.

Sitting in traffic for about 40mins and i noticed smoke/steam coming up over the wind screen wipers. I thought my car was on fire initially.

I wasn't moving and the oil temp was still cold.

Then as soon as i got out of town and onto some open road i keep the revs at about 2.2k, max cylinder pressure and the smoke was immense!

Its happened to me once before in very cold conditions. The sudden rush of heat for a re-gen cycling meeting cold water vapour in the exhaust produces loads of steam.

However with this re-gen it lasted a long time. Maybe 40 seconds of constant heavy smoke accompanied by a very distinct soot burning smell. I've never had that before. The only time i've noticed it before it was just 10 seconds of steam. That time and this time anyone driving behind me always falls further back. I reckon they think my car is about to explode.

I will be intrigued to clean my EGR now. Possibly next weekend, after i get some carb cleaner.

Check your DPF pressure difference sensor hoses above engine on (or literally under)firewall, my upper hose (that easier one to remove from sensor) was totally blocked and Mr T almost changed whole DPF, they ordered new one. Blocked hose makes system to re-gen all the time and finally you're presented with "check engine-check vsc with nice sound". I managed to get error message away by removing Battery cable for a minute, no less because in shorter time just message disappears but you're in limp-home mode next time , error came back again and again and again after 1.5 hours drive, but after two weeks I lost my nerves and blowed all hoses I could reach. Upper sensor hose needed over 2 bars pressure to pop open, then it worked.I managed to blow hoses clean with cars's own compressor and suitable adapter, those "professionals" didn't even try to do that, they just checked that no exhaust gases came through. Blocked hose makes system to re-gen all the time and finally you're presented with "check engine-check vsc with sound". I managed to get error message away by removing Battery cable for a minute, no less because message disappears but you're in limp-home mode next time , error came back again and again and again after 1.5 hours drive, but after two weeks I lost my nerves and blowed all hoses I could reach. Upper sensor hose needed over 2 bars pressure to pop open, then it worked. Next day I drove to service, it was time to remove engine and fit new DPF, I told everything was normal again and asked them to clean EGR instead. EGR holes in manifold were blocked, only middle hole was barely open, maybe 8-10 mm round hole. There's no need to scrape every corner clean, just open those holes, my valve side was in perfect condition, no need to polish either, it'll be dirty after a few kms anyway. It's better to check and clean more often. Fuel consumption dropped 1 l/100 km, I blamed cold weather but reason seemed to be combination of EGR and DPF malfunction. Now whole car feels better than new and it's gone 193000 kms. It was first time to clean EGR, it's much cheaper to clean often than those unnecessary liters of fuel I spend because of my own stupidity.

Toyota should add EGR and DPF cleaning into regular maintenance program instead of some stupid hinge-spraying and Battery pole cleaning they do in every service like zombies.

J

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on the maf there is 2 small wires inside the tube that you missed, I gave mine a quick clean with carb cleaner but TBH was very ginger as I dont want to damage this.

Rick,

How has your's been after the clean?

Better MPG? Better start? Less smoke?

What exactly has been the difference?

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on the maf there is 2 small wires inside the tube that you missed, I gave mine a quick clean with carb cleaner but TBH was very ginger as I dont want to damage this.

Rick,

How has your's been after the clean?

Better MPG? Better start? Less smoke?

What exactly has been the difference?

Our car has been fine all along apart from the MPG and a slight flatspot in throttle response since the EGR clean the results are,

This will vary for everyone but in my experience I did a 360mile round trip the next day with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, going there (more downhill) the roads where very very wet with poor visibility and approx 7oc and we averaged 41.1MPG by the time we got there. When we come home with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, slightly uphill most of the way the roads where dry and approx 3oc the average MPG had dropped to 40.0. When I filled up we got 37.4litres in the tank which I rounded up to 38 and worked out at 43MPG (I always brim the tank). This is now showing a big improvement / approx 20% for a 15minute job of cleaning the EGR valve. I will also note the slight flat spots in throttle response are a lot less than before.

As for the MAF I dont think this made any difference and like I said I was very ginger so I did not damage it, I just basically gave it a wash and refitted.

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Toyota should add EGR and DPF cleaning into regular maintenance program instead of some stupid hinge-spraying and battery pole cleaning they do in every service like zombies.

J

Any chance of a photo of the DPF so we know what where looking at? as for the spray grease MR T uses all over your car at the service, I gave them strict instructions not to bother as last time I spent an hour cleaning all the excess from the bodywork etc.

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Hi All.

After reading this post I thought I'd give my egr valve a look.

The car is a July 2007 2.0 d4d with 23,000 miles on, which for 3 years makes me think it could be mainly town work(I bought the car in Oct. 09).

I stripped the egr valve and there was so much crud a lot of it flaked off with a screwdriver and the rest I removed with a spray degrease and decarbon solvent fromm HSS hire shops, finishing with a good pull through with a rag.

When I started it there was no white smoke and it fired 1st time so maybe this solvent evaporates, it was very cold when I did it so I went in for a cup of tea before I reassembled it, the time lapse could have helped.

I don't know about the fuel consumption yet but it seems to have a bit more go and there is a lot less injector knock when cold.

In four months I have had no problems(rattles, steering etc) except for noisy brakes when reversing but I can live with that untill the weather gets better and I'll do it myself.

David Dey

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In four months I have had no problems(rattles, steering etc) except for noisy brakes when reversing but I can live with that untill the weather gets better and I'll do it myself.

David Dey

I have fitted EBC Greenstuff pads all round and my brakes have better cold bite, a lot cleaner and no noise problems at all.

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Toyota should add EGR and DPF cleaning into regular maintenance program instead of some stupid hinge-spraying and battery pole cleaning they do in every service like zombies.

J

Any chance of a photo of the DPF so we know what where looking at? as for the spray grease MR T uses all over your car at the service, I gave them strict instructions not to bother as last time I spent an hour cleaning all the excess from the bodywork etc.

I really don't know where that sensor is in UK models, because in LHD models it hangs under firewall lip straight behind dipstick and if your brake servo is located in right side, there's surely lid for brake fluid access in same place. Basically there's nothing else hanging under lip, it'll be easy to recognize without pictures, big black plastic part with two 8-10 mm outer diameter hoses and one electric connector. It's quite accessible if you remove engine cover first and DPF's dirty side hose is that easier one. If you follow hoses, they connect to steel pipes behind engine and that dirtier one is easy to track to upper side of DPF. I only have my Nokia's camera at the moment and it was quite dark outside so I didn't take any pictures but follow my lead, lad...

Mr T's service schedule is ridiculous, my car was 5 month's old in 30000 kms service, I walked into garage and started to wonder what serviceguy messed with my brakes, he was changing brake fluid. Brake fluid? In schedule it's actually 30000, but that amount of kms is here for a normal Toyotas customer 2 year's amount, that's acceptable but that idiot flushed my factory new fluid away like a f**king zombie. After that he made routine spray-around round, I'd polished my car last weekend and that's it, those tiny oil drops climb everywhere and collect dust like a glue. Fuel filter change is funniest part, filter is perfectly accessible underneath, but those einsteins decide every time to access under hood with different methodes, usually they throw away at least air filter and then they'll remove whole filter assembly...

J

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a self cleaning egr valve would be awesome lol....... if only........ or no egr valve at all

Hmm, no egr, now you're talking!

The egr valve on my car clatters like an old tractor.

Is this normal?

my mates got fabia vrs and he's removed his egr valve i'm pretty sure

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Decided to clean mine today too. Fiver for some Carb cleaner and a good thorough clean later I no longer have a clattering idle. There was also a slight hesitation revving in neutral at about 1.8k rpm, that's also gone.

The valve and intake itself wasn't as bad as some pics but there was a lot of soot but the holes were still visible but small after 3 years.

Overall night and day really never really had problems but since the clean it revs more freely, its quieter too.

Definatly worth it. A good blast down the road gave some whitish smoke as it cleared out the loose bits. Reset the ecu and the drive felt good.

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Quite surprised, 47mpg on the way up to manchester. Changing between 2.5 and 3k rpm with some foot down blasts. Car was full with people and full boot. Cruise control at 70 odd apart from swift overtakes. Normally only get about 43/44 on m-way

We'll see how it lasts on usual daily routes.

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Quite surprised, 47mpg on the way up to manchester. Changing between 2.5 and 3k rpm with some foot down blasts. Car was full with people and full boot. Cruise control at 70 odd apart from swift overtakes. Normally only get about 43/44 on m-way

We'll see how it lasts on usual daily routes.

What tyre pressure do you run on the T180, we run our around 2psi less due to the hard suspension

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I'm running 38 / 32psi

I did run 40 / 34 psi (stone cold fill) using the compressor in the boot but it doesn't seem to make much difference and as you say makes the rider a bit harsher.

Incidentally i arrived at work this morning with 46mpg on the display and i made an effort to keep the revs above 2k at all times. So it seems i'm consistently 2-3mpg up compared to before the clean.

// Also on the tyres, the sticker on the chassis does say 36 / 32 which i also tried but felt there wasn't enough side wall support on the fronts so i'm sure that sticker is wrong as the book says 38/32 anyway.

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I'm running 38 / 32psi

I did run 40 / 34 psi (stone cold fill) using the compressor in the boot but it doesn't seem to make much difference and as you say makes the rider a bit harsher.

Incidentally i arrived at work this morning with 46mpg on the display and i made an effort to keep the revs above 2k at all times. So it seems i'm consistently 2-3mpg up compared to before the clean.

// Also on the tyres, the sticker on the chassis does say 36 / 32 which i also tried but felt there wasn't enough side wall support on the fronts so i'm sure that sticker is wrong as the book says 38/32 anyway.

we run 35/32 but will give it another go at 38/32 to see if the MPG goes up, I have notice our trip computer does seem to be about 1-3mpg short of what we are achieving but even at that ours is less than yours

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Are your sidewalls flexing / sagging a lot at that PSI? I do notice a smoother ride on a lower PSI but i do worry about flexing and longevity of tyres.

So far i'm on 30k on an original pair. Which are on the fronts but used to be on the rears. I always put new sets on the rear.

They aren't showing any signs of side wall degradation or uneven wear.

But in all honesty i've not noticed any significant difference in economy between 36psi and 38psi. And i know that when i top up i'm actually running 34psi as it's lost air.

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Are your sidewalls flexing / sagging a lot at that PSI? I do notice a smoother ride on a lower PSI but i do worry about flexing and longevity of tyres.

So far i'm on 30k on an original pair. Which are on the fronts but used to be on the rears. I always put new sets on the rear.

That aren't showing any signs of side wall degradation or uneven wear.

But in all honesty i've not noticed any significant different in economy between 36psi and 38psi. And i know that when i top up i'm actually running 34psi as it's lost air.

I got 30k out of the dunlops but swapped all 4 due to a puncture and these now discontinued, the rears had around 3-4mm left (old fronts swapped at 20k), the tyres look fine but will give this ago.

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What tyres are they using now on the t180s?

I assume some form of bridgestones?

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