Rav4 Towbar 2004 (4.2 Model)

[smilerbatten]

Hi All,

I have seen some threads on here discussing whether you need detachable or certain height towbars for the Rav4 4.2 but i cant seem to make up my mind.

The fixed towball ones are only about £80 if i fit it myself, which doesnt look too hard.

The detachable ones are £200 but it seems you need this one if you want to tow anything with a jockey wheel as it sits higher than the fixed ones.

I am looking to tow a small trailer tent and a small trailer that i use for rubbish clearance, so do i need to speed money on the detachable option?

Also, has anyone wired one of these before? is it much simpler to use the manufacturer wiring kit or splice into the rear clusters? i cant find where i would run the wires from the bar to inside the car boot though?

Any suggestions?

Many Thanks

Jason

[pmb]

Welcome to the madhouse. You may have read a post I made some time ago , to quote a 4.2 brochure "A detachable Tow bar can be used with all 4x2 and 4x4 vehicles with 235 tyres. For 4x4 vehicles with 215 tyres a fixed tow bar must be used. Trailer coupling must be removed to open rear door" I've a detachable on mine , you pays your money and make your choice. If you look on http://techdoc.toyota-europe.com under repair , accessory installation manuals eventually you can find foc the installation info for both the towbar and wiring kit. Greater minds of wisdom should be along later to help you.

[smilerbatten]

Wow, thats brilliant! i have just downloaded the manuals, they were a bit scary looking at first but once printed out it makes a bit more sense :)

Thanks for you help.

I only have the 2 wheel drive vesion so assume the detachable one is fine. i think the manufacturer wiring kits are expensive though...about £60..so if i go for a detachable option i need to think hard about spending more on the wiring! after all the car is getting old now on an 04 reg...will probably use it once to tow something and end up burning out the clutch! :)

Thanks

Jason

[pmb]

From how I read it , you can have a choice with that version (and mine). What spec is it and tyre size? Cheers Jason

Paul

edit:It's worth putting in your exact model in your profile btw and less of the old please otherwise Bothy will have a go!

[redlew]

I've been quoted around £475 inc vat for the detachable towbar and dedicated wiring on my 55 mk2 RAV. How does that sound?

[smilerbatten]

It sounds expensive to me, but i enjoy taking things apart, so the thought of doing this myself is quite appealing regardless of what a garage would cost.

you can buy the detachable towbars for £200 and the manufacturer wiring kit for £60 (12N single socket version), so i assume you are paying £200 for labour.

So unless you want to save £200 and fit it yourself its maybe not a bad price..

I am also reluctant to spend too much on this as I dont think a towbar adds any value to your car and perhaps even de-values it becasue people will think the car has been thrashed about pulling huge trailers / caravans / boats etc..thats what i would think anyway!! i would probably remove this before selling it to save the questions and concerns...

Thanks

Jason

[Hoovie]

Welcome to the madhouse. You may have read a post I made some time ago , to quote a 4.2 brochure "A detachable Tow bar can be used with all 4x2 and 4x4 vehicles with 235 tyres. For 4x4 vehicles with 215 tyres a fixed tow bar must be used. Trailer coupling must be removed to open rear door" I've a detachable on mine , you pays your money and make your choice. If you look on http://techdoc.toyota-europe.com under repair , accessory installation manuals eventually you can find foc the installation info for both the towbar and wiring kit. Greater minds of wisdom should be along later to help you.

Hi.

Just to give a bit more info ... re  "A detachable Tow bar can be used with all 4x2 and 4x4 vehicles with 235 tyres. For 4x4 vehicles with 215 tyres a fixed tow bar must be used. Trailer coupling must be removed to open rear door" - This is true of the Official Toyota Tow-Bar. However..... their (Mr Ts) towbar is made by Brinks (now owned by Thule) and Brinks do two versions of the detachable bar - one that is exact same as supplied to Toyota and one that has the towball about 20mm lower and WILL allow the rear door to be opened WITHOUT removing the bar (you would still have to unhitch any trailer/caravan first).

This alternate towbar is the one I went for and I found it very straightforward to fit in around 2 easy hours I think- and I did have to invest in a 17mm socket and torque wrench. Also, I did have the OEM Toyota Rear Step fitted which actually uses the same brackets so probably saved some time (maybe 30-60 mins?)

Word of Caution: I understand some people with large trailers/caravans (usually double-axle ones) have had a bit of a problem with the jockey wheel fouling due to the lower position, you are only talking 20mm difference so for a more typical trailer probably make no real difference.  I just tow a small 'garden' trailer with mine so cannot comment authoritively mind!

I would go for a detachable one TBH as it looks a lot tidier when you are not using it. just MHO  :)

[pmb]

Thanks for that Hoovie. Mine was fitted by Mr T when I bought it new.

[smilerbatten]

I eventually decided to get a DIY detachable towbar and it arrived today so will try and fit it this weekend.

Towequipe seem to have a deal on the Witter ones for £153:

http://www.towequipe.co.uk/products/towbar...-ty123ar-c.html

Strange as they are selling them for £200 on eBay!

I also got the car specifc wiring kit for £65,

http://www.towequipe.co.uk/products/towbar...-4-00-on06.html

so not bad £218 for the lot delivered!

I think i have all the instructions i need so will let you know how i get on! :)

[smilerbatten]

i fitted this today and it was pretty straigh forward and have already taken my trailer for a test run to the rubbish tip! :)

the instructions that came with the towbar and the wiring kit explained it all, i got a bit stuck with a couple of the wires as it said i needed to cut into the existing harness but a quick call to towequipe and they said i didnt need to do that, so i left it.

The rear door can open with the towbar fitted (just) as i set it to lowest setting, but the towball removes quickly and easily as well.

The towbar mount to the car was a little tricky as the threads were rusty under the car, but after a clean up and bit it playing about i managed to get a good bite.

So overall i am very pleased and wondering what else i can tow :)

Thanks for all your help

Jason

[Davrav]

So overall i am very pleased and wondering what else i can tow :)

A Landrover

[RaverT180]

So overall i am very pleased and wondering what else i can tow :)

A Landrover

you could try one of these! (250 bhp stock)

[smilerbatten]

So overall i am very pleased and wondering what else i can tow :)

A Landrover

you could try one of these! (250 bhp stock)

Thats a nice idea, not sure where i would use these in London though! I have a motorbike, but hopefully I wont need to be towing that anywhere! unless i decide to use for track days! :)

[Mike JD]

you could try one of these! (250 bhp stock)

Thats a nice idea, not sure where i would use these in London though!

Docklands of course :D

Mike D

[redlew]

Just had the detachable Witter TY123AR fitted by an independent for £375. Don't know how it compares performance wise with the Brinks/Thule.

Must say that it is a bit of a faff having to attach it and detach it and that you cant get the rear door open when it is in use.

If I ever replace the RAV, I'd probabaly look for a car that didn't need a detachable.

[IanXT4]

I think you can adjust the Witter cross bar so that the door can open with the removable ball hitch on.

But if its possible this, would make the tow ball at the almost the legal min height for towing and can this be too low for some trailers.

I use a Brinks at this height and its ok for a 8 Meter long two wheel glider trailer without the jock wheel attached, not sure it would work with a four wheel trailer.

Ian

[Mike5100]

Welcome to the madhouse. You may have read a post I made some time ago , to quote a 4.2 brochure "A detachable Tow bar can be used with all 4x2 and 4x4 vehicles with 235 tyres. For 4x4 vehicles with 215 tyres a fixed tow bar must be used. Trailer coupling must be removed to open rear door" I've a detachable on mine , you pays your money and make your choice. If you look on http://techdoc.toyota-europe.com under repair , accessory installation manuals eventually you can find foc the installation info for both the towbar and wiring kit. Greater minds of wisdom should be along later to help you.

Hi.

Just to give a bit more info ... re  "A detachable Tow bar can be used with all 4x2 and 4x4 vehicles with 235 tyres. For 4x4 vehicles with 215 tyres a fixed tow bar must be used. Trailer coupling must be removed to open rear door" - This is true of the Official Toyota Tow-Bar. However..... their (Mr Ts) towbar is made by Brinks (now owned by Thule) and Brinks do two versions of the detachable bar - one that is exact same as supplied to Toyota and one that has the towball about 20mm lower and WILL allow the rear door to be opened WITHOUT removing the bar (you would still have to unhitch any trailer/caravan first).

This alternate towbar is the one I went for and I found it very straightforward to fit in around 2 easy hours I think- and I did have to invest in a 17mm socket and torque wrench. Also, I did have the OEM Toyota Rear Step fitted which actually uses the same brackets so probably saved some time (maybe 30-60 mins?)

Word of Caution: I understand some people with large trailers/caravans (usually double-axle ones) have had a bit of a problem with the jockey wheel fouling due to the lower position, you are only talking 20mm difference so for a more typical trailer probably make no real difference.  I just tow a small 'garden' trailer with mine so cannot comment authoritively mind!

I would go for a detachable one TBH as it looks a lot tidier when you are not using it. just MHO  :)

This is useful Hoovie, but can I just ask - can the 20mm higher detachable actually be fitted to the 4.2 with 215mm tyres, because we need to be able to use the jockey wheel. I accept the door might not open, but presumably it all functions properly if you remove the swan neck, so you are only really limited while you have the trailer attached, and the ball would be at the right height?

Thanks

Mike

[Hoovie]

Welcome to the madhouse. You may have read a post I made some time ago , to quote a 4.2 brochure "A detachable Tow bar can be used with all 4x2 and 4x4 vehicles with 235 tyres. For 4x4 vehicles with 215 tyres a fixed tow bar must be used. Trailer coupling must be removed to open rear door" I've a detachable on mine , you pays your money and make your choice. If you look on http://techdoc.toyota-europe.com under repair , accessory installation manuals eventually you can find foc the installation info for both the towbar and wiring kit. Greater minds of wisdom should be along later to help you.

Hi.

Just to give a bit more info ... re  "A detachable Tow bar can be used with all 4x2 and 4x4 vehicles with 235 tyres. For 4x4 vehicles with 215 tyres a fixed tow bar must be used. Trailer coupling must be removed to open rear door" - This is true of the Official Toyota Tow-Bar. However..... their (Mr Ts) towbar is made by Brinks (now owned by Thule) and Brinks do two versions of the detachable bar - one that is exact same as supplied to Toyota and one that has the towball about 20mm lower and WILL allow the rear door to be opened WITHOUT removing the bar (you would still have to unhitch any trailer/caravan first).

This alternate towbar is the one I went for and I found it very straightforward to fit in around 2 easy hours I think- and I did have to invest in a 17mm socket and torque wrench. Also, I did have the OEM Toyota Rear Step fitted which actually uses the same brackets so probably saved some time (maybe 30-60 mins?)

Word of Caution: I understand some people with large trailers/caravans (usually double-axle ones) have had a bit of a problem with the jockey wheel fouling due to the lower position, you are only talking 20mm difference so for a more typical trailer probably make no real difference.  I just tow a small 'garden' trailer with mine so cannot comment authoritively mind!

I would go for a detachable one TBH as it looks a lot tidier when you are not using it. just MHO  :)

This is useful Hoovie, but can I just ask - can the 20mm higher detachable actually be fitted to the 4.2 with 215mm tyres, because we need to be able to use the jockey wheel.  I accept the door might not open, but presumably it all functions properly if you remove the swan neck, so you are only really limited while you have the trailer attached, and the ball would be at the right height?

Thanks

Mike

Hi Mike, I just replied to your other Thread  :D

To add some more info to this question here - when I was looking at Towbars initially, I checked about minimum and maximum heights for towballs, and the lower detachable ball when used with my 235/60 shod car is right on the minimum height. Ok for me as I wanted it for small trailer, not big caravan.

Your car is already 10mm higher so that is good.  Also, I have seen plenty of (non RAV4) vehicles with towballs way higher then the RAV4 towballs, so I do not understand the reason behind the Toyota stance re no detachable on 215/70 shod cars.

One thing may have to state clearly now - ANYTHING that is hitched onto ANY Towbar fitted to a RAV4 will stop the rear door opening by more then about 1 foot. With the Standard Toyota Detachable Towbar, the Rear Door is still limited in its opening whether you have a trailer hitched or not. The ball itself fouls the door.

Personally, I am very pleased that I went for the lower detached towbar as I can leave it in place and just pull the hitch off with takes seconds to get to door, and the car looks a LOT better without the towbar visible when I don't need it (which is like 350 days a year!).

I would suggest you set up next to your caravan/trailer some bricks and stuff to the height just below the rear door of your RAV (the top of the ball clears the door by around 3mm), maybe then drop a certain amount to take care of suspension compression and road dips, and then see if the jockey wheel fouls when the hitch is be at that height.

HTH

H.

[Mike5100]

good idea .... might have to load some bags of sand into the back of the Rav though as eveyrthing is supposed to be calculated at gross vehicle weight.

Dunno how I managed to post in two different threads ... must be getting old

Mike