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Rav4 D4D 2001 Hesitation And Power Loss


wakeboardbabe
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Hi all,

Very new here and totally at a loss as to what to do.

Im trying to find as much help about my problem before the hubby comes home and I hit him with the news that the beloved Rav is misbehaving!

As I accelerate just over 2000 revs there is a hesitation and a loss of power, I cant accelerate and clear it and today it got slower and slower as I was going up a hill but the engine management light didn`t come on nor did any other lights on the dash.

I managed to get to the top of the hill and pulled in then I put the car in neutral and gave it a good rev which was fine,no hesitation but a bit smokey from the exhaust.

Has anyone any idea where to start fault finding??

Thankyou in advance.

FIXED I THINK, READ ON.....

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Hi all,

Very new here and totally at a loss as to what to do.

Im trying to find as much help about my problem before the hubby comes home and I hit him with the news that the beloved Rav is misbehaving!

As I accelerate just over 2000 revs there is a hesitation and a loss of power, I cant accelerate and clear it and today it got slower and slower as I was going up a hill but the engine management light didn`t come on nor did any other lights on the dash.

I managed to get to the top of the hill and pulled in then I put the car in neutral and gave it a good rev which was fine,no hesitation but a bit smokey from the exhaust.

Has anyone any idea where to start fault finding??

Thankyou in advance.

Hi and welcome to the club :thumbsup:

Sorry to hear of your problems. What year/model is your RAV?

It will help point those who know in the right direction for a potential diagnosis.

In the meantime, have a look in the pinned section at the top of the page, Technical information and tips, at the references to EGR valves and SCVs

See if your symptoms are similar.

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Hi all,

Very new here and totally at a loss as to what to do.

Im trying to find as much help about my problem before the hubby comes home and I hit him with the news that the beloved Rav is misbehaving!

As I accelerate just over 2000 revs there is a hesitation and a loss of power, I cant accelerate and clear it and today it got slower and slower as I was going up a hill but the engine management light didn`t come on nor did any other lights on the dash.

I managed to get to the top of the hill and pulled in then I put the car in neutral and gave it a good rev which was fine,no hesitation but a bit smokey from the exhaust.

Has anyone any idea where to start fault finding??

Thankyou in advance.

Hello

It looks the engine wants to eat more than you give to him :)

Have the fuel filter changed first + try again.

Cheers/Igor

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Igor,

Thankyou,did that last night and no improvement unfortunately.

Someone has mentioned the words fuel pump regulator to me?????

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Ah yes, I was reading that yesterday. What about EGR valve, do I have one of those as that sounds similar to my problem?

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This is the EGR valve on a 2001 RAV 2.0 D4D

441762205_o.jpg

Kingo :thumbsup:

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Igor,

Thankyou,did that last night and no improvement unfortunately.

Someone has mentioned the words fuel pump regulator to me?????

hi mate

OK it looks like the engine does not give up -- ok, then check with the following:

- EGR valves -- to be inspected/cleaned, if any holes blocked;

- SCVs (both)--to be tested on resistance;

- alternator output voltage;

- air in the pump still available;

- engine air filter

as to regulator - i do not agree so far - cos this regulator has been adjusted when assembled (!!!).

Cheers/Igor

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Ok, up to now we have changed oil and new oil filter, new air filter, put on a new fuel filter, taken off EGR valve and that is moving freely and is just being put back on now.

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If we took it for a diagnostic plug in would it give a fault code for the scvs?? Thanks everyone up to now.

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If we took it for a diagnostic plug in would it give a fault code for the scvs?? Thanks everyone up to now.

normally this code must be de-coded as "pump control system, failure" or even definitely SCV failure.

waiit for others more experienced in code reader

cheers/Igor

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DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO YOUR CAR IF YOU HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM UNTIL YOU HAVE TRIED THIS!

New oil

New oil filter

New air filter

Cleaned EGR valve

Removed ,cleaned and replaced SCV'S

All to make no difference at all apart from it has done the car no harm what so ever,it can only be a good thing.

The last thing we decided we could do before booking it in to a garage and watching the repair bill grow, was to empty the £45 worth of SUPERMARKET diesel out of the tank and replacing it with £15 of BP fuel.

What a difference!! Absolutely smooth as can be up to now, not one little bit of hesitation and the Rav seems to be wanting to give more and more.

We can only put it down to perhaps a bad batch of diesel from Morrisons with water in or contamination of some sort because we have regularly filled up there over the last 3 years since owning the car.

If the problem stays away simply by spending a couple more £'s per tank full by using named diesel then its got to be worth a try.

I shall post of my progress next week after I have been commuting for the week and let you know if the problem has stayed away.

In the meantime, thankyou to all that helped.

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  • 2 years later...

hi guy news to the forum i have the same fault with hesitation when putting foot down can anybody help me thanks mike 07769219388 if needed

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DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO YOUR CAR IF YOU HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM UNTIL YOU HAVE TRIED THIS!

New oil

New oil filter

New air filter

Cleaned EGR valve

Removed ,cleaned and replaced SCV'S

All to make no difference at all apart from it has done the car no harm what so ever,it can only be a good thing.

The last thing we decided we could do before booking it in to a garage and watching the repair bill grow, was to empty the £45 worth of SUPERMARKET diesel out of the tank and replacing it with £15 of BP fuel.

What a difference!! Absolutely smooth as can be up to now, not one little bit of hesitation and the Rav seems to be wanting to give more and more.

We can only put it down to perhaps a bad batch of diesel from Morrisons with water in or contamination of some sort because we have regularly filled up there over the last 3 years since owning the car.

If the problem stays away simply by spending a couple more £'s per tank full by using named diesel then its got to be worth a try.

I shall post of my progress next week after I have been commuting for the week and let you know if the problem has stayed away.

In the meantime, thankyou to all that helped.

For all the extra it REALLY costs, stick to Shell V-Power / BP Ultimate for a wee while.....glad you got it sorted.....seems to be a bit of a pattern with the name Morrisons coming up semi-regularly......?

Now try some BG244 or Archoil additives for cleaning the fuel system....some call it snake oil, others think it improves things. Did you do fuel filter....sorry if duplicated.

Big Kev

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Kev, that person has had 3 cars since that post!!!

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Kev, that person has had 3 cars since that post!!!

OOPS.......!

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Poor OLD Kev :)

3 hours before ah get old.......

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i had the same problems 6 months ago, thanks to everyone on this site we managed to solve the problem, anyway i i threw a load of brand new part-s at it, egr valve, full service inc fuel filter, scv valves, as was trying to rule out the turbo, as we had no fault code,

my mate ended up taking it for a drive to see if he could throw up a fault code (which he did}, he kept his foot down in 2nd gear to see if the car would drive through it but it soon went into limp mode and the light was on.

ended up being the turbo, he explained the variable vains on them go wrong causing the turbo not to spool up,

i managed to get a turbo off eBay, a refurb one for £360 exchange basis off a seller called starmaxx, not 100% saying this is ur fault but all the symptoms sound the same,

can be a cheap fix compared to mr T prices on parts.

hope u get it all sorted soon

george

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  • 2 years later...

Hi All

new on here Tonight.

Ok some straight forward unabbreviated advice would be very much appreciated..

I have a rav 4 d4d gx 2003 106k. several months ago I noticed a hesitation when accelerating up hill, this has got progressively worse the engine management light comes on so I stop wait 30 secs and all is well until the next time which could be a few miles or a few hundred. Unfortunately this problem is now every day. When accelerating through 2200 revs from 2nd to 3 rd mainly it goes in to limp, sometime it clears but most of the time it remains in limp.

The fuel filter has been replaced. I put 2 bottles of Forte in the tank with only 1 gall of fuel and things got better but not for long. I took it to my local dealer and he has sprayed turbo cleaner in through the turbo air in take gradually at 2200 revs. On road test loads of black smoke and it was an improvement as the hesitation had completely gone but it was still going limp through 2nd 3rd and 4th but then would also clear itself. It revs freely and there is no noise from the turbo or smoke. On the motorway it performs as it should but getting up a hill is embarrassing. The dealer says it is a blocked cat and it needs to be kicked out meaning they will strip the inside of the cat as the car isnt breathing. Can I trust that this is the cure, what else could it be. The turbo appears to be Ok, could it be the actuator valve,turbo boost switch or ???

hope some can can assist as it appears to be a common problem.

Cheers.

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Exact same problem with ours. In fact this is very common and I have solved it!

It can be SCV valves at £200 to £300 a pop, or it can be the turbo vanes sticking. Finally if it's neither of those, if it's a D4D then your injector seals may be leaking. If it's the latter, if not caught in time will cause carbon deposits to block your engine oil pick up and starve the engine of oil. I found out the hard way.

One symptom of the injector problem is poor starting or no starting after a run.

The injector seals are quick and easy to replace. Toyota has modified the crush washers but never did a recall.

You will need 4x crush washers and 4x o-rings. Be careful of the plastic injector electrical connection as they can break quite easily. If an injector is hard to remove, that is the one that's leaking!

I would start diagnosis with a check of the operation of the turbo vanes (see below), then SCV valves, finally injectors. However, I would get the injector seals changed as a matter of course.

Also check your fuel filter is tight, although this normally results in poor starting and stalling.

To check and fix the turbo vanes:

D4D (2002) Turbo removal and vane cleaning.

Check the vane operation by removing the two 8mm bolts holding the UFO to the top of the turbo. The actuator linkage should move fully up and down smoothly and with no resistance or stickiness. You can check the UFO by sucking on the small pipe, it should operate the linkage smoothly.

The fix, 8hr job, experienced home mechanic with lots of tools!

Put front end of vehicle on ramps.

Remove intercooler, pipe to turbo, air cleaner box and pipes. (12mm sockets)

Remove top and rear heat shields (12 mm sockets and scanners) the rear heat shield has a bolt accessible from underneath the vehicle.

Remove the bracket holding the cat converter (to left of turbo) to the engine (3x 14mm bolts) and the clamp holding the pipe to the bracket (8mm spanner/cross Head screwdriver).

Remove the 3x12 mm nuts holding the cat to the turbo (one more accessible from below or use a stubby spanner)

Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the bottom of the cat to the lower bracket using long extension from underneath.

Undo but do not remove the oil feed pipe from the bottom of the turbo using 10mm socket (2x10mm nuts).

Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the bottom of the turbo to the lower bracket. These are tight, I linked two spanners to get leverage but a socket would work too. Be careful not to round the bolt heads.

From above, remove the bolt holding the EGR tube to the bracket and carefully lever the tube towards the engine to obtain enough room to get a socket down onto the final 14mm nut holding the turbo to the bracket. Again be careful not to round the nut as it is tight.

Now remove the two rubber coolant pipes from the turbo, you will loose only a small amount of fluid.

Pull the cat away from the turbo and carefully work the turbo up and out.

Do not loose the metal gaskets between oil pipes and turbo and cat and turbo.

With turbo on the bench, undo the five 10mm bolts around the air intake housing (part that looks like a snail) and separate the two parts. Do not loose the large o-ring, remove this and clean any corrosion off the faces before carefully retrofitting in the same orientation.

If it helps, remove the UFO undoing the 10mm nut on the linkage.

Remove the coolant pipes using a 10mm socket on the two nuts. Do not loose the metal gasket.

Now undo the five rusted 10mm bolts holding the turbo together, being careful not to round them as they too are tight. This will allow the turbo to separate with a gentle tap around the edge.

You will now have access to the linkage, ring gear, rollers and pins that operate the vanes. Carefully remove all parts (do not loose the rollers and pins!) and clean with brake cleaner/carb cleaner, brass wire brush etc.

Using a star bit, remove the three (tight) bolts holding the vane unit to the turbo being careful to retrieve the three brass spacers underneath.

Lift out the vane unit and thoroughly clean the vanes and all mating surfaces. Scraping off any carbon etc using a flat blade.

Using very fine 300 grade emery paper smooth all mating surfaces if necessary.

Refit as per removal being careful to correctly locate the vane actuator and roll pin in the housing to the corresponding hole in the turbo housing.

Your vane actuator linkage should now operate freely with no sticking.

If removed, refit UFO setting the linkage to avoid putting excess pressure on the UFO diaphrapm. Neutral position on the diaphragm should be lowest position on the vane linkage.

Refit to vehicle as per removal being careful to locate all the metal gaskets correctly and trying not to drop the inaccessible nuts too many times!

Good luck.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi, I have only had my Rav 4 2.0 D4d 2005 for a few weeks, a couple of weeks ago when cold it began to hesitate when I put my foot down, like the engines being choked, it was ok when at working temperature, no hesitation... One afternoon I put my foot down when cold and it hesitated at around 2500 rpm I didnt let off the gas like I would normally to see what would happen if I pushed it and it slowly started to die until the engine light came on and it cut out! I started the engine back up after a minute and it ran fine but still with the hessitation until it reached working temperature. I have never seen any smoke at all from the exhaust! The next day I used a can of EGR cleaner spray, spraying in 1 seconds bursts until empty letting the engine rev up as it went up the air intake until the can was empty, later that day after driving about for a bit the engine light turned off and hasn't come back on... and for 2 weeks its been fine, no hesitation but over the last week the hesitation has reintroduced itself slowly getting back to the same as before. When the car it warm (working temperature) it rarely does it if at all.

1. Does this sound like the EGR needs taking off and cleaning?

2. Hope to god its not the turbo, but I can hear that whining up and down as I accelerate (only faintly though)

3. Would the DPF cause this?

Please help, I just spent £3100 on this car and its a stunner.. but I don't have anymore to spend!

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Hi Paul and welcome,

If the light has come on and the car has gone into "limp mode" there will be a fault code stored in the ecu, (even if the light has now gone out) you need read this code with an OBD2 code reader , these can be purchased quite cheaply now or alternatively you can take your car to a garage and they will read the fault for a fee. But your first step should be to get the code read this will give a much better idea as to what has caused the fault.

regards colin

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