Hello New Rav D4D Owner

[Davrav]

Just trying to get my head round this - are you saying gear changes are difficult or that the car struggles to accelerate when the engine is at working temperature, and thus vibrates/shudders/stutters?

[bluerav4]

Can't offer any advice myself :(

I do recall reading in the past many posts about how to get the DMF fixed at a much better price then the Dealers, so could be worth a trawl through the search engine :)

I just hope my fellow forum members are wrong in this case and it turns out to be something simple (and cheap) to fix. Best of Luck!

Thanks I hope it is too

Thanks again

[bluerav4]

Just trying to get my head round this - are you saying gear changes are difficult or that the car struggles to accelerate when the engine is at working temperature, and thus vibrates/shudders/stutters?

Hi basically what it does when at about 35-40 and change from 3rd to 4th it feels like a vibration/judder once it's picked up speed it's fine then same again from 4th to 5th. However all this is intermittent. Somedays you can go upto 5th at about 35 on a flat road and it's fine

There's no problems in any other gear just 4th and 5th at about 35-40. I hope I've explained it properly

[Davrav]

Just trying to get my head round this - are you saying gear changes are difficult or that the car struggles to accelerate when the engine is at working temperature, and thus vibrates/shudders/stutters?

Hi basically what it does when at about 35-40 and change from 3rd to 4th it feels like a vibration/judder once it's picked up speed it's fine then same again from 4th to 5th. However all this is intermittent. Somedays you can go upto 5th at about 35 on a flat road and it's fine

There's no problems in any other gear just 4th and 5th at about 35-40. I hope I've explained it properly

Well, not experienced a 4.2 RAV but I'm beginning to wonder if you are causing the engine to labour unduly? Either that or possibly an engine issue?

Anchorman, do you think this may be a possibility?

[Scorpion-gb]

Well, I'm glad I read this thread as I was wondering about changing gear to early and feeling a lack of 'grunt'. I find I have to hold lower gears just a little longer than I'm used to with other diesels I've had. Not a big problem once you get used to it, but like most things it's good to find out that it's not someting problematic.

[bluerav4]

Just trying to get my head round this - are you saying gear changes are difficult or that the car struggles to accelerate when the engine is at working temperature, and thus vibrates/shudders/stutters?

Hi basically what it does when at about 35-40 and change from 3rd to 4th it feels like a vibration/judder once it's picked up speed it's fine then same again from 4th to 5th. However all this is intermittent. Somedays you can go upto 5th at about 35 on a flat road and it's fine

There's no problems in any other gear just 4th and 5th at about 35-40. I hope I've explained it properly

Well, not experienced a 4.2 RAV but I'm beginning to wonder if you are causing the engine to labour unduly? Either that or possibly an engine issue?

Anchorman, do you think this may be a possibility?

I appreciate what your saying wouldn't it do that all the time as I am light footed and do change gears quickly sometimes. I've changed gears at 40 mph from 3rd to 4th and you still get The judder and vibration. And at higher speeds as someone suggested the same as you have. It's so frustrating as other people have driven it and it has done it intermittently again.

One of the guys who had a look at it put it into neutral while it was juddering/vibrating and the vibration stopped and when he put it back into gear it started again for a few seconds and tben was ok

I'm sorry if I've got everyone scratching their heads over this and it does show symptoms that have been suggested on The topic I have described as best as I can.

[jedi134]

Well, I'm glad I read this thread as I was wondering about changing gear to early and feeling a lack of 'grunt'. I find I have to hold lower gears just a little longer than I'm used to with other diesels I've had. Not a big problem once you get used to it, but like most things it's good to find out that it's not someting problematic.

I think that explains my driving of a 4.2 rav too.

Is there a way to get the turbo to spool up early I wonder?

[Scorpion-gb]

Gents can you explain why people quote their car as being a 4.2 Rav, please? Is this a 2.0 ltr D4D engine?

[jedi134]

4.1 mk1 where it all began rav

4.2 mk2 rock solid rav

4.3 mk3 poorley rav

4.4 mk4 BMW rav

[Scorpion-gb]

Cheers, Jedi. I just read the RAV4 Model Range sticky and found the info there (should have read that first, I guess!)

It now also saves me asking why mine has chrome bars on the side and at the rear (XTR).

[Tech01]

From what you describe, it sounds like a problem which occurs at low engine revs. I run a (2003) 4.2 D4D as well. If everything's in order, you should expect to be able to accelerate gently in any gear from about 1100-1200rpm without any stuttering, hesitation or vibration - but don't expect any great torque/pulling power to be available until around 1800rpm, which is when the turbo begins to do useful work.

Peak torque is available at around 2000-2500rpm, and if you're accelerating away briskly it is sensible to change up a gear at around 2500-3000rpm. There's no point in holding the gear and taking the revs much past 3000, because the torque actually drops off! Driving a petrol engine is quite different, where peak torque is at much higher revs. (If you only need gentle acceleration, by all means change up earlier.)

The other reason for changing up at 2500-3000rpm when accelerating hard is that when you engage the next higher gear, the engine is again turning at around 2000rpm ("peak torque"), ready to give you good pulling power once more.

If you were change up at, say, 2200rpm, you would then find yourself in the next higher gear with the engine operating at below turbo speed . . . . . Definitely not helpful!

So, don't change up too soon, but don't hold too long either. It's a diesel, with huge torque available, but in a relatively narrow rev band of 2000-2500rpm.

_______________

Also, cheap and easy to do, before doing anything drastic or expensive:

1. Fill up with high quality (no need for 'Super') diesel fuel (Shell, Esso...), and avoid supermarket fuel.

2. Add some Miller's Diesel Power Ecomax, or Wynns Diesel System Treatment to a tankful or two. If you've never used either of these recently, add at 1:500. Usual dosage is 1:1000. Both products are similar, and they really work to clean pump and injectors, and well as providing smoother running.

3. If the vehicle does lots of local pottering about, take it on a motorway run * and give it a blast at 60-70mph+, and include a couple of 3 minute runs in a lower gear to put the engine revs at 3500-ish. This will blast all kinds of soot and crap out of the turbo and exhaust, and is standard practice before an MoT emissions/smoke test.

* when the ice and snow has gone, that is.

Diesels do thrive on being worked really hard every now and again. Don't tickle them all of the time!

Let us know how you get on.

Chris

[anchorman]

Chris

Did you read post No 32?

[bluerav4]

From what you describe, it sounds like a problem which occurs at low engine revs. I run a (2003) 4.2 D4D as well. If everything's in order, you should expect to be able to accelerate gently in any gear from about 1100-1200rpm without any stuttering, hesitation or vibration - but don't expect any great torque/pulling power to be available until around 1800rpm, which is when the turbo begins to do useful work.

Peak torque is available at around 2000-2500rpm, and if you're accelerating away briskly it is sensible to change up a gear at around 2500-3000rpm. There's no point in holding the gear and taking the revs much past 3000, because the torque actually drops off! Driving a petrol engine is quite different, where peak torque is at much higher revs. (If you only need gentle acceleration, by all means change up earlier.)

The other reason for changing up at 2500-3000rpm when accelerating hard is that when you engage the next higher gear, the engine is again turning at around 2000rpm ("peak torque"), ready to give you good pulling power once more.

If you were change up at, say, 2200rpm, you would then find yourself in the next higher gear with the engine operating at below turbo speed . . . . . Definitely not helpful!

So, don't change up too soon, but don't hold too long either. It's a diesel, with huge torque available, but in a relatively narrow rev band of 2000-2500rpm.

_______________

Also, cheap and easy to do, before doing anything drastic or expensive:

1. Fill up with high quality (no need for 'Super') diesel fuel (Shell, Esso...), and avoid supermarket fuel.

2. Add some Miller's Diesel Power Ecomax, or Wynns Diesel System Treatment to a tankful or two. If you've never used either of these recently, add at 1:500. Usual dosage is 1:1000. Both products are similar, and they really work to clean pump and injectors, and well as providing smoother running.

3. If the vehicle does lots of local pottering about, take it on a motorway run * and give it a blast at 60-70mph+, and include a couple of 3 minute runs in a lower gear to put the engine revs at 3500-ish. This will blast all kinds of soot and crap out of the turbo and exhaust, and is standard practice before an MoT emissions/smoke test.

* when the ice and snow has gone, that is.

Diesels do thrive on being worked really hard every now and again. Don't tickle them all of the time!

Let us know how you get on.

Chris

Thank you for all the info

We always use Shell and have never used supermarket petrol/diesel

I think anchorman did mention about the injector cleaner and I have done that too. We do a mixture of both to be honest weekdays it's usually school run and weekends its usually up and down the M1. I've not tried holding it on any amount of revs for 3 minutes but will definately give that a go on weekend.

I think I'm unlucky we've always had Toyotas many from brand new but due to current recession just bought a secondhand Toyota.

We bought a T-spirit corolla in march 2002 and after 3rd service started burning oil like water and after so many letters back and forth to Toyota they eventually replaced the engine.

This is the second car that we have had issues with but I'm hoping this ends up being something simple

So apart from one VW Golf and VW passat it's been Toyota. I really appreciate everyone's input in this and once this issue is resolved I'll be more than happy. To be honest if it wasn't for the forum I think I would have been out of pocket quite a bit. Also is this forum free to join or do you have to pay after a while. I'm more than happy to have a forum sticker on the back of our Rav. I'm sure this won't be my last post as I will keep you updated

Thanks guys!!!!

[bluerav4]

They will be cheaper than a DMF yes,, around £200 a pair I belive, But im sure this will throw up a engine management light? I belive these can have the effect of losing engine power in high gears?

Why was the turbo changed in August?

I'm not too sure why it was changed. It's on the invoice that came as part of the history.

The car has been really well looked after all invoices from Toyota.

Actually thinking about it as all work has been done by Toyota how long is the warranty for replacement parts fitted by Toyota?

[jedi134]

I would say 12 months :D

[bluerav4]

I would say 12 months :D

Thanks I was hoping 3 yrs!!

[Hoovie]

....Actually thinking about it as all work has been done by Toyota how long is the warranty for replacement parts fitted by Toyota?

I think you will find that if a part is replaced under warranty (i.e. FOC), it will be covered for the longer of the remaining warranted part of the original part OR a 3 month period.

Because you are not paying for the part, you do not get the same warranty as if you were buying it yourself.

There are likely to be exceptions to this for parts with known issues, such as a DMF, where there may be a special policy in place for that specific part.

[jedi134]

So not last August then? Do you have 2 Ravs?

What colour is the Diesel? :D

[bluerav4]

So not last August then? Do you have 2 Ravs?

What colour is the Diesel? :D

The turbo was replaced in August last year.

we only bought this Rav recently and it came with a wealth of paperwork, invoices etc all from Toyota. Thats why i asked the warranty question

The diesel is the blue one

the silver is a VX Auto apart from being thirsty its a fantastic car. My partner has had that for about 6 years now.apart from the routine service it has never let him down.

[bluerav4]

So not last August then? Do you have 2 Ravs?

What colour is the Diesel? :D

The turbo was replaced in August last year.

we only bought this Rav recently and it came with a wealth of paperwork, invoices etc all from Toyota. Thats why i asked the warranty question

The diesel is the blue one

the silver is a VX Auto apart from being thirsty its a fantastic car. My partner has had that for about 6 years now.apart from the routine service it has never let him down.

From what you describe, it sounds like a problem which occurs at low engine revs. I run a (2003) 4.2 D4D as well. If everything's in order, you should expect to be able to accelerate gently in any gear from about 1100-1200rpm without any stuttering, hesitation or vibration - but don't expect any great torque/pulling power to be available until around 1800rpm, which is when the turbo begins to do useful work.

Peak torque is available at around 2000-2500rpm, and if you're accelerating away briskly it is sensible to change up a gear at around 2500-3000rpm. There's no point in holding the gear and taking the revs much past 3000, because the torque actually drops off! Driving a petrol engine is quite different, where peak torque is at much higher revs. (If you only need gentle acceleration, by all means change up earlier.)

The other reason for changing up at 2500-3000rpm when accelerating hard is that when you engage the next higher gear, the engine is again turning at around 2000rpm ("peak torque"), ready to give you good pulling power once more.

If you were change up at, say, 2200rpm, you would then find yourself in the next higher gear with the engine operating at below turbo speed . . . . . Definitely not helpful!

So, don't change up too soon, but don't hold too long either. It's a diesel, with huge torque available, but in a relatively narrow rev band of 2000-2500rpm.

_______________

Also, cheap and easy to do, before doing anything drastic or expensive:

1. Fill up with high quality (no need for 'Super') diesel fuel (Shell, Esso...), and avoid supermarket fuel.

2. Add some Miller's Diesel Power Ecomax, or Wynns Diesel System Treatment to a tankful or two. If you've never used either of these recently, add at 1:500. Usual dosage is 1:1000. Both products are similar, and they really work to clean pump and injectors, and well as providing smoother running.

3. If the vehicle does lots of local pottering about, take it on a motorway run * and give it a blast at 60-70mph+, and include a couple of 3 minute runs in a lower gear to put the engine revs at 3500-ish. This will blast all kinds of soot and crap out of the turbo and exhaust, and is standard practice before an MoT emissions/smoke test.

* when the ice and snow has gone, that is.

Diesels do thrive on being worked really hard every now and again. Don't tickle them all of the time!

Let us know how you get on.

Chris

Thank you for all the info

We always use Shell and have never used supermarket petrol/diesel

I think anchorman did mention about the injector cleaner and I have done that too. We do a mixture of both to be honest weekdays it's usually school run and weekends its usually up and down the M1. I've not tried holding it on any amount of revs for 3 minutes but will definately give that a go on weekend.

I think I'm unlucky we've always had Toyotas many from brand new but due to current recession just bought a secondhand Toyota.

We bought a T-spirit corolla in march 2002 and after 3rd service started burning oil like water and after so many letters back and forth to Toyota they eventually replaced the engine.

This is the second car that we have had issues with but I'm hoping this ends up being something simple

So apart from one VW Golf and VW passat it's been Toyota. I really appreciate everyone's input in this and once this issue is resolved I'll be more than happy. To be honest if it wasn't for the forum I think I would have been out of pocket quite a bit. Also is this forum free to join or do you have to pay after a while. I'm more than happy to have a forum sticker on the back of our Rav. I'm sure this won't be my last post as I will keep you updated

Thanks guys!!!!

Chris

followed your advice today and found that changing gear as you described at 2500-3000 revs the judder/vibration was there but not as bad . i found that on a straight flat road if i went up the gears at approx 2000 revs it was intermittent did it a couple of times then was ok. Downhill i put it into 5th at about 30 mph and it was fine. so done a u turn and went up the hill and went up the gears at about 2500 revs + the judder/vibration was there but only slight and as it picked speed up it was ok

so does that mean im doing something wrong? or could it be something else?

[Tech01]

From what you describe, the roughest running / vibration seems to be at medium-heavy throttle, and at low revs. On a petrol car, the first suspect would be less-than-perfect sparkplug (or lead). On a diesel, this could be a less-than-perfect injector, causing lumpy running. This will always show up more at low revs and high throttle, where you rely on "well spaced" cylinder firings to be even and equal, to give a smooth delivery of power. Take the revs up high enough, then the effects of one less-than-wonderful cylinder are less noticeable. Basically, the "3 cylinder" effect tends to disappear at high revs!

Would suggest you try the additive/cleaner, plus a motorway blast, as previously described. If this fails to improve things, take the car to a diesel (diesel injection) specialist, and get them to do a diagnosis. They'll almost certainly do this for you for a flat fee (I last paid 45euro here, and diagnosis was a blocked cat), and not try to sell you unnecessary bits, which a T. dealer might.

Your 2.0 D4D should drive far better than you describe.

Chris

[jedi134]

There is a poster called Rambler on here, I remember he was having what could be similar problems, and his rav is around the same year as yours I think,

May be worth comparing faults, he posted about it not so long ago...

[bluerav4]

Latest update

Right went to pick kids up from school it was fine nice lovely drive

Got kids into car started engine and it sounded really rough. Started driving stalled it. Restarted engine sounds rough still so thought need to get kids home. It drove as it was running on 3 cylinders as I have to drive up a dual carriageway I decided to give it a good run. Once it's over 2000 revs it's fine. Slow down and idle sounding rough now. I appreciate I have been on here constantly looking for answers and I really am grateful for all the advice.

These new symptoms does it make it any clear to anyone what it could be as its gone worse.

When parked up it sounds sh*te if you rev it it smooths out about 2000 revs. Would it be a good idea to put the cleaner stuff in and give it a run on motorway or shall I just throw the towel in. Unfortunately can't afford to payout for DMF if it is that or anything else expensive. I will really really appreciate any thoughts please

Thanks in advance

[jedi134]

Try the cleaner, mistermena recommends the BG xxx something or other, worth a try.

[bluerav4]

Try the cleaner, mistermena recommends the BG xxx something or other, worth a try.

Thanks

Where can I get that from