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Anyone Had Alternator Issues?


pmb
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There have been several threads about the battery's on the petrol models being too small and I have had issues with this problem. Anyway SHMBO has a Berlingo that wouldn't start this morning. Charged it and got it going , she has taken it to the local garage and they think it could be an alternator problem. Had a google and someone else with the same vehicle has had it diagnosed by the RAC as alternator not fully charging the Battery. Beginning to wonder if the problems that I and others have had are due to this. So , back to the thread title...

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I've only had an issue with one toyota alternator going faulty. And it gave us fault warnings before it finally gave up.

I think the alternators are actually quite good.

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Mines really boring!!!! Absolutly nothing has gone wrong with it in 2 years of ownership......I am used to fixing something every month or so................. :crybaby:

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Any mechanic worth his salt should be able to tell you if an alterator is not putting out enough voltage to charge the Battery.

A simple reading at the Battery when the engine is running should show around 14 volts.

At this time of year it is possible to run a Battery flat by short runs with with things running like lights and heaters.

Have it checked by a battery supplier who should be able to check the alternator at the same time.

As Bothy says they do'nt give a lot of trouble.

Have you checked the drive belt for slipping if it is a "V" belt?

Del

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I'm with Crofter. Its the easiest electrical test you can do. Put a cheap volt meter across the Battery and start it up. It should rise from about 10-12 volts to 14 ish.

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Do a quick check on the alternator output voltage (approx 14v), but my money is on a tired Battery !!

I have found that for the pathetic Battery fitted to the petrol 4.2 a combination of;

Battery a few years old + short journeys + cold nights + parasitic drain from the alarm = :ffs:

I am going to try and shoe horn a diesel battery in when I next change it.

Meanwhile I have installed a multistage charger for the cold night/short journeys.

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Do a quick check on the alternator output voltage (approx 14v), but my money is on a tired battery !!

I have found that for the pathetic battery fitted to the petrol 4.2 a combination of;

battery a few years old + short journeys + cold nights + parasitic drain from the alarm = :ffs:

I am going to try and shoe horn a diesel battery in when I next change it.

Meanwhile I have installed a multistage charger for the cold night/short journeys.

My local garage ain't open till next week...and I don't have a multimeter to check if the Battery or alternator is causing my Battery issue...if I have any!...the car has been starting from cold since it's flat out on Hogmanay!....I had a look at my Zafira diesel's Battery ( replaced after 4 years ) and it's a stonking 75 ah's.....and I have seen Rav4 batteries for sale here which have only 45ah!....Nae wonder the things not holding a charge at -10c! hahaha

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Do a quick check on the alternator output voltage (approx 14v), but my money is on a tired battery !!

I have found that for the pathetic battery fitted to the petrol 4.2 a combination of;

battery a few years old + short journeys + cold nights + parasitic drain from the alarm = :ffs:

I am going to try and shoe horn a diesel battery in when I next change it.

Meanwhile I have installed a multistage charger for the cold night/short journeys.

Its not a RAV its a Berlingo. You won't need a shoe horn it fits easily :thumbsup:

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I'm with Crofter. Its the easiest electrical test you can do. Put a cheap volt meter across the battery and start it up. It should rise from about 10-12 volts to 14 ish.

If you don't have access to a cheap meter, I can sell you a Fluke meter (used) in excellent condition for only £3,906.77; or hire it to you for only £609.77 a day. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Seriously, its worth you buying a simple meter that will measure up to 500Volts just for testing circuits now and again. I bought a couple of Fluke meters and since then, my father has been eternally grateful that I haven't used him to test high voltages on circuits using his tongue. :shutit:

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I'm with Crofter. Its the easiest electrical test you can do. Put a cheap volt meter across the battery and start it up. It should rise from about 10-12 volts to 14 ish.

If you don't have access to a cheap meter, I can sell you a Fluke meter (used) in excellent condition for only £3,906.77; or hire it to you for only £609.77 a day. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Seriously, its worth you buying a simple meter that will measure up to 500Volts just for testing circuits now and again. I bought a couple of Fluke meters and since then, my father has been eternally grateful that I haven't used him to test high voltages on circuits using his tongue. :!Removed!:

I love using the old tongue technique for Battery testing , however Gene Simmons is never around when I need my car Battery checked oot!

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If you find a multitester a litle daunting and would never dream of putting a probe into 240V supplies there are some gizmos that only work on 12V and have three lights on where No1 lights up at 10V,No2 at 12V and No3 at 14V.

They sometimes have "traffic lights" on instead.

Del

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I have one of those LED traffic light gadgets permanently sat in the cig lighter socket.

You can see at a glance what state the Battery voltage is in. and if the alternator is charging.

Very cheap to buy, and well worth it.

Phil

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Our alternator kaput last year. Oil from a poor service had been mis-poured and the alternator is directly below. Meant it burnt out eventually. All power went one night as we pulled into the drive-way leading to a bill for £200 for a refurb exchange part.

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Our alternator kaput last year. Oil from a poor service had been mis-poured and the alternator is directly below. Meant it burnt out eventually. All power went one night as we pulled into the drive-way leading to a bill for £200 for a refurb exchange part.

Theres a company near me in Bellshill who refurb starters and alternators - I think most people use them locally as they are so cheap and good. Happy to ask them for price etc if you need one.

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Hi,

Any good tech should be able to test the alternator no prob, it's best to use a amps gauge as its more sensitive to whats going on ,volts ok for a quick check but if you have a problem you need to get the amp gauge connected,using the amps will show the operation of the regulator better one can monitor the whole operation of starting the car to it running and then when its switched off,checking body ecu and immo, alarm drains etc, you can also check the loading of lights, HRW, wipers etc, this will completely test the cars system and pin point the problem area, its ok to replace the alternator but you would be pig sick if it turned out to be a component drain, :thumbsup:

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Hi,

Any good tech should be able to test the alternator no prob, it's best to use a amps gauge as its more sensitive to whats going on ,volts ok for a quick check but if you have a problem you need to get the amp gauge connected,using the amps will show the operation of the regulator better one can monitor the whole operation of starting the car to it running and then when its switched off,checking body ecu and immo, alarm drains etc, you can also check the loading of lights, HRW, wipers etc, this will completely test the cars system and pin point the problem area, its ok to replace the alternator but you would be pig sick if it turned out to be a component drain, :thumbsup:

Hi, Hedley. Hey,that has a nice ring to it!

Firstly, I should like to apolagise for calling Technicians mechanics,old habits die hard and all that. :rolleyes:

I agree with what you say and it has been mentioned on here before it would be great if an ammeter could be built into the display,and this is in no way a criticism of your post

However,I think the majority of members on here have,shall we say,basic knowledge of their motors and if they can be steered to some simple tests before having to resort to sometimes high charges involved by more tests that can only carried out with what may be,to them,complicated equipment,then we have helped them.

Just my HO

Del

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Hi,

Nothing wrong with techs being called mechanics or visa versa in my opinion,

I can see what you are saying but by reading the post it seems that the car was taken to a garage to be tested and they THINK its the alternator, my point was that they really should know, if you are paying for a tech to check the alternator he should be able to give a better diagnosis of the problem. I agree that not everyone has a amp gauge in their toolbox and that most people would not be able to connect it up ,so that is a good point for me to remember, the use of the voltmeter would show if a charge is being put into the Battery and would be a good basic test, one can also swap over another vehicle Battery if it would fit,to eliminate the original , ask the garage to do a drain test to make sure nothings running the Battery down when the cars not running. Good luck

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