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2 posts in this topic
I'm after some advice ... my service books states for my 2010 Yaris D4D that oil change and filter carried out every 10,000 miles but keep reading in forums that owners do theirs every 5,000 - 6,000 miles.
I currently drive around 25,000 miles a year (urban roads but generally 60mph most of the way) so get my vehicle serviced every 10,000 miles.
Should I look at getting my oil and filter changed between services? I want to keep my vehicle as long as possible and use v-power fuel. I acquired the vehicle with a fsh at 44,000 miles and currently up to 55,000 miles.
Hi lads. I have got yaris mmt 2009. It drives ok for about 300 mls. The trouble starts as gear slips out (rear, once or twice)or pause between gears or jumps. Then I do next what is said Technical Bulletin: Installation of the MMT ECU, Initialisation of the clutch, MMT System learning and MMT system synchronisation and position calibration. After this I go another smooth 300 mls and over again. Can anybody help me with this? may I need new clutch? is there possibility to chech clutch thicknes without taking gearbox off. Or may clutch selenoid has to be greased. The car's selenoid is hydraulic. May someone have a mmt manual, or can recomend one. Thank you for support.
Yaris 04, erratic idle / rough idle / variable idle / hunting.
Also occasional sudden loss of power when driving, not sure if these are connected.
Idling issue usually happens from when car is first started. The inlet air (throttle?) valve actuator lever, from vacuum actuated diaphram, can be seen moving as revs change.
If the vacuum pipe is either pinched shut or taken off, then the engine idles correctly. When vacuum reconnected, idle usually stays OK, but after revving the problem comes back. Shown here: VIDEO
After power loss, no acceleration and only 5mph on the flat. So pull over, switch off and wait a minute, then restarts normally.
I've found quite a few posts with bits of information, so have included links to them.
The power loss had been gradually getting more frequent, over last two or three years. Sometimes happening up to 3 or 4 times an hour, but usually no problem on short journeys. First thought it was a fuel supply issue, as new fuel filter would "fix" it for a while, but becomming more frequent
and since last change it only lasted 2 months.
Then checked fuel pick up filter in tank. This coubik nylon 'teabag' filter was black, and when assembly was lifted out from top of tank, the residual fuel in pick up pipe only drained out slowly. See d4d cutting out
Removed filter bag and cleaned out with powerwash then dried with compressed air. Now can see light through the filter. - No improvement.
Air getting into fuel line was suggested as possible cause, but in that case I would have expected restarting to take a while while any air was purged.
Various forums suggested problems with carbon build up in EGR valve or the air intake (throttle?) valve, with the diaphram that operates either of these having an air leak, or with either of
the two VSVs (vacuum switching/solenoid valve or vacuum control solenoid).
Both diaphrams checked out OK. Diaphram test
The VSVs both held vacuum, but passed it when 12V applied so looked OK (though not a conclusive test as in use, a variable voltage is used, not just on/off). VSV test
EGR had fair carbon build up, but 80% still clear, and the valve could turn freely. Cleaned - no change. See: EGR Cleaning
Made and fitted an EGR blanking plate Making a blanking plate (as suggested to another owner by a Toyata mechanic) - still no change.
Then checked the air intake valve assembly. Eratic Idle - Clean air valve I found the smaller air channel was completely blocked. There are two airways from this casting into the engine, make sure both are clear. In my
case the main air channel (about 45mm diameter) had 5mm of carbon build up, only when scraping this out did the second chanel (about 12mm) become visible.
Question: What's the second small air channel for? I guess the largeer channel is air to the cylinders.
This must have helped?? - but still an erratic idle.
So then swapped over the two VSVs (as EGR blanking plate was still fitted, the EGR VSV isn't doing much).
Started up, but engine limiting at 3000rpm. Switched off, then wouldn't restart, wait a minute then restarts but revs still limited --much like the power loss problem??
Reseated VSV connectors, and pushed vacuum pipes further on. Retry, now OK, full revs and NO erratic idle!
Now managed a 100 mile round trip, 1hr20 each way with no problem.
If problem stays gone I'll try to get a replacement VSV, Denso part no. 25819-33010, New is around £300, so will get used. Sometimes on eBay around £25-40, but nearby breakers will charge around £10+. Only downside is the age of the replacement.
This post says 25819-33030 was successfully used instead. I think that was used on the later Yaris, so might be available newer.
Having seen the amount of deposits built up, which will probably also be found around the turbo vanes, the occasional use of a fuel system cleaner seems like a good idea. Some claim to also clean post combustion chamber. Turbo Cleaners I'll maybe start using Archoil AR6400-D at every regular service, though the PDF suggest every 5,000 mile.
I have recently bought Yaris Zinc 1.3 2007 MMT automatic transmisson and found a problem that bothers me a lot.
When I start moving forward or backward (especially slowly) car jerks. When I add more gas and accelerate sharply jerking is gone, it is also fine when the engine is hot.
Now, I have read quite lot about jerking and mmt but I could not find some answers so I want to ask :
1. Would initialisation of ECU and clutch help?
2. Is this really transmission problem?
3. Would tranny oil change help?
4. In case of changing transmission do I need to buy whole new transmission or just some part (which is gone) and what are the aprox. prices of it ? (I am starting at Uni shortly and thus have very limited budget.)
Thank you all for your help and advices.
Hi, I am a recent owner of a lovely Toyota Yaris 1.4 D-4D, 2005.
When I bought the car a couple of weeks ago it had only covered 32,000 miles-ish (just under 3k a year) and I am thinking about changing the oil. Which oil would be best for performance/longetivity? I saw the manual recommended 5w30 semi-synthetic but read on here fully synthetic would be better?
Also should I get the oil flushed or just topped up? I'm unsure of what oil it's currently running on. Thanks for your help.