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2 posts in this topic
Hi everybody, new member and major Toyota owner / enthusiast here with 5 different Toyota models in the immediate family.
I got a Toyota Yaris 1.3 Auto 2002 VVTi as a run around and for the school run over a year ago, except for one problem it has been good runner until now.
I’ve been working on cars for years and normally solve most problems on my own but this one has me stumped. I have done lots of checks on this problem, listed below.
Car has been running rough for weeks – very sluggish / loss of power, engine vibration etc
Car started one morning and cut out after a few minutes after engaging drive and trying to pull away. It would not restart again despite cranking over normally. Since the break down I’ve tried many ideas and I got the car started once for about 30 seconds before it conked out. It had been left for a few days and the battery had been taken out to charge it. Sometimes when the engine is turned over, the turn over speed may increase after 10-20 seconds and it feels like it’s close to starting, but this fades away.
Things done so far:
The fuel tank is nearly full, it was filled up with unleaded a few days before.
I tried starting it with the other key, in case of an immobiliser fault- No difference
Charged car battery and tried jump starting the car off a different car- No difference
Used Cold Start spray both in the air inlet and directly into cylinders- No effect Replaced all 4 pencil coil packs with a working set with the same model number- No difference. The voltage on the 4 pins of the coil leads are 0 & 12v on the 2 outer pins and about 7v on the 2 inner pins. The resistance across all 4 pins of the coils are the same on all coils. A break down technician had checked the car, plugged in an OBD scanner and said the error codes indicated a problem with the coils or the coil driver circuit on the ECU but I can’t find any faults here. I took out each spark plug, left them connected and cranked the engine – there was a good spark on all 4 plugs. On removal each plug was slightly wet, indicating fuel was getting through.
The fuel line was disconnected and the engine turned over, about 100ml of fuel was pumped out in one crank. Indicating the fuel pump is ok and the fuel line & filter are not blocked.
The pistons could be seen moving up and down as the engine was cranked. Both the tops of the pistons and the plugs were quite carbonised. The car has done about 58,000 miles and has been serviced regularly. So I can’t see how there can be a problem with the starter motor. I think this model has a timing chain rather than a rubber timing belt. Compression was tested by taking out the spark plug and putting a rubber valve grinder suction cup over the hole and cranking the engine, a loud popping occurred indicating pressure in all cylinders. The crankshaft sensor failed about 6 months ago and was replaced. The last OBD check didn’t show any crankshaft sensor error code – which it did before.
The petrol had a small amount of diesel contamination about 3 months ago. Since then the car has been filled up over 4 times. The yellow engine warning light has been on continuously since I got the car over a year ago. The Yaris has been to the garage many times about this issue and I was told it was related to the Catalytic converter. The error can be cleared but comes back again after some time driving; it never seemed to effect starting or performance.
If anyone has any ideas or advice on this problem I would be very glad to hear them.
I'm trying to get the boot light on my 2003 Yaris to work. It was an ex demonstration car so I suspected that I would find a fitting with no bulb (so that they can leave the boot open all day). There is a bulb though, and it looks like it should work (I've looked at the filament with a magnifying glass). The wiring also looks OK. I thought I found a dodgy switch earlier but it turns out to be the central locking mechanism! The only issue that I can find is that the open door warning light doesn't come on when the boot is open, so that is probably the problem? Does anyone know where the relevant sensor for the boot is? Or have any other suggestions?
I've owned the car for a couple of years and my mum had it before and I don't think the boot light has worked since we've had it. It isn't exactly critical but I would like it to work, especially at this time of year.
I've recently bought a 2013 Yaris Hybrid and get the error "System Not Installed" when trying to access the Sat Nav feature. I realise that the Sat Nav hasn't been installed but wondered if anyone has found a cheaper option to get this added, other than to go to the main dealer who have quoted me £1000.
I've seen quite a few older posts about activating or installing sat nav but no real answers.
I'm after some advice ... my service books states for my 2010 Yaris D4D that oil change and filter carried out every 10,000 miles but keep reading in forums that owners do theirs every 5,000 - 6,000 miles.
I currently drive around 25,000 miles a year (urban roads but generally 60mph most of the way) so get my vehicle serviced every 10,000 miles.
Should I look at getting my oil and filter changed between services? I want to keep my vehicle as long as possible and use v-power fuel. I acquired the vehicle with a fsh at 44,000 miles and currently up to 55,000 miles.
Hi lads. I have got yaris mmt 2009. It drives ok for about 300 mls. The trouble starts as gear slips out (rear, once or twice)or pause between gears or jumps. Then I do next what is said Technical Bulletin: Installation of the MMT ECU, Initialisation of the clutch, MMT System learning and MMT system synchronisation and position calibration. After this I go another smooth 300 mls and over again. Can anybody help me with this? may I need new clutch? is there possibility to chech clutch thicknes without taking gearbox off. Or may clutch selenoid has to be greased. The car's selenoid is hydraulic. May someone have a mmt manual, or can recomend one. Thank you for support.