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2 posts in this topic
we have got a Yaris diesel from 2008
since a few weeks it is playing up and the garage we normally use could not find anything wrong and suggested that we take it to
a toyota dealer which we did,
problem is as follows.
we are driving normal and suddenly we loose the power of driving. We cannot axilerate to go faster.
We stop the car switch of the engine and after 2 mijnutes we start again and it goes normal again
Problem is that the computer on board does not show any fault codes at all that is the reason that the Toyota garage send us back
home until it happened again and it happens quite regular now.
Is there anyone who has had this problem before and tell us what could be wrong
we would be very grateful
Thanks for reading and helping us
Ad & David
Hey - First time posting here - let me if this is the wrong forum/section etc.
Took Yaris (2006 manual) in for a service a couple weeks ago, and in the service had the fuel filter changed. Got the car back after the service and it ran well but stunk of fuel (awfully strong, partner and I felt a bit sick from it). Anyway, we took the car back in the next day as it hadn't gone away and turns out they hadn't, if I remember right, put a cap back on correctly. So took the car home, next day the fuel smell came back and the car was now having trouble starting. It would "crank" but not start on the first go, requiring up to 3 attempts to start. So we took the car back in again and they said they hadn't put the fuel pump back together properly (something about an O ring?) and they had fixed that, though they weren't sure exactly if that was causing the problems with the car starting. So, again, we take the car back and the fuel smell is now gone but the car is really struggling to start every now and then (maybe every second time we use the car it takes a couple tries to get the car to start). We replaced the battery, just in case it was that, turns out it wasn't. Called them about this, they said there not sure what's wrong. One other thing we've noticed since the service is - when we refuel and fill the car the meter isn't saying full, it's showing one bar under, something it hasn't done before. So I've kinda just given up for now, with work being busy taking it back in this often is a little bit difficult.
These are all new problems that popped up after being serviced, car's been remarkably reliable for the last 10 years.
Took car in for service.
Took car back as car stank of fuel when driven.
They put the "cap" back on properly.
Took car back again, fuel smell still there and car cranks but won't start all the time.
They said pump wasn't put back together properly (O ring?).
Car still won't start properly/reliably, and fuel meter doesn't show full when filled.
We replaced the battery just in case it was that, didn't help with anything.
Any suggestions/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hi everybody, new member and major Toyota owner / enthusiast here with 5 different Toyota models in the immediate family.
I got a Toyota Yaris 1.3 Auto 2002 VVTi as a run around and for the school run over a year ago, except for one problem it has been good runner until now.
I’ve been working on cars for years and normally solve most problems on my own but this one has me stumped. I have done lots of checks on this problem, listed below.
Car has been running rough for weeks – very sluggish / loss of power, engine vibration etc
Car started one morning and cut out after a few minutes after engaging drive and trying to pull away. It would not restart again despite cranking over normally. Since the break down I’ve tried many ideas and I got the car started once for about 30 seconds before it conked out. It had been left for a few days and the battery had been taken out to charge it. Sometimes when the engine is turned over, the turn over speed may increase after 10-20 seconds and it feels like it’s close to starting, but this fades away.
Things done so far:
The fuel tank is nearly full, it was filled up with unleaded a few days before.
I tried starting it with the other key, in case of an immobiliser fault- No difference
Charged car battery and tried jump starting the car off a different car- No difference
Used Cold Start spray both in the air inlet and directly into cylinders- No effect Replaced all 4 pencil coil packs with a working set with the same model number- No difference. The voltage on the 4 pins of the coil leads are 0 & 12v on the 2 outer pins and about 7v on the 2 inner pins. The resistance across all 4 pins of the coils are the same on all coils. A break down technician had checked the car, plugged in an OBD scanner and said the error codes indicated a problem with the coils or the coil driver circuit on the ECU but I can’t find any faults here. I took out each spark plug, left them connected and cranked the engine – there was a good spark on all 4 plugs. On removal each plug was slightly wet, indicating fuel was getting through.
The fuel line was disconnected and the engine turned over, about 100ml of fuel was pumped out in one crank. Indicating the fuel pump is ok and the fuel line & filter are not blocked.
The pistons could be seen moving up and down as the engine was cranked. Both the tops of the pistons and the plugs were quite carbonised. The car has done about 58,000 miles and has been serviced regularly. So I can’t see how there can be a problem with the starter motor. I think this model has a timing chain rather than a rubber timing belt. Compression was tested by taking out the spark plug and putting a rubber valve grinder suction cup over the hole and cranking the engine, a loud popping occurred indicating pressure in all cylinders. The crankshaft sensor failed about 6 months ago and was replaced. The last OBD check didn’t show any crankshaft sensor error code – which it did before.
The petrol had a small amount of diesel contamination about 3 months ago. Since then the car has been filled up over 4 times. The yellow engine warning light has been on continuously since I got the car over a year ago. The Yaris has been to the garage many times about this issue and I was told it was related to the Catalytic converter. The error can be cleared but comes back again after some time driving; it never seemed to effect starting or performance.
If anyone has any ideas or advice on this problem I would be very glad to hear them.