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Maintenance - 4.3 Replacing Rear Shock Absorbers


shcm
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Difficulty: Easy-ish

Time: About 1 hour

Tools: Two 17mm spanners - ring and open. Long spanners may help.

As the chart below shows, it's quite normal for a shock absorber to have traces of oil around the top. However leaks like level 3 to 1 mean the shock absorber (SA) needs replacing.

saLeak.jpg

Probably a good idea to replace in pairs.

As always, apply hand-brake, chock the opposite front wheel and without the vehicle raised, slightly slacken off the road wheel nuts.

jack the vehicle up and place on an axle stand:

saAxelStand.jpg

(note to self - it's a good idea to secure the stand with the split pin on the chain!) :nono:

2009 and beyond models are fitted with superdooperGoFasterAerodynamicFuelSaverGizmos to the rear suspension arms on each side. It makes things a bit easier, by removing this. Easily done with a 10mm socket.

SArmGizmo.jpg

Support the suspension arm with the jack and remove the road wheel. Place a piece of wood between the jack head and the suspension arm, to prevent damage to the arm:

saJack.jpg

(No the drive doesn't slope, must have had too much vino, picture is on the tilt).

The vehicle should feel firmly supported now. Don't gamble with this - it's not worth it.

The shock absorber is attached top and bottom with bolts and nuts. Shown here with nuts and bolts partly and fully removed.

saBotFix.jpg

saLowerNut.jpg

saTopFix.jpg

The bottom bolt is not too bad to access, the top is the worst, which is where you may need the open ended spanner. Obviously hold the bolt head with one spanner, while releasing the nut with the other.

The bottom bolt attaches through a carrier, which in turn is attached to the wheel "hub" assembly.

The bottom SA bolt will not come out unless this carrier is removed. The suspension arm is in the way and prevents the bolt coming fully out. If the bolt was inserted the opposite way around, there would be no problem and the bolt would come out, without removing the carrier. I suspect it is done like this so that if the bolt should come loose, it cannot drop out completely.

Look underneath the "hub" and you will see two bolts:

saCarrierNuts.jpg

These attach the carrier to the "hub".

Although I couldn't see how there could possibly be any relative movement, it's not a bad idea to place match marks before removing anything suspension related. It can save a whole heap of re-alignment later.

saCarrierBolts.jpg

In fact, the carrier doesn't have to be removed, slacking the bolts off a little and lowering the carrier, as shown, is enough to remove the bottom SA bolt.

Once you have the top and bottom SA bolts out, the SA itself should come out easily:

4-3ShockAb.jpg

At time of writing part number is 48531-42240. Same part is used for both sides (no surprise really). Always check that the part number hasn't been updated.

When refitting, the piece of metal welded to the lower part of the SA, goes towards the front of the vehicle. Some out of focus, installed SA pictures:

saInPlace.jpg

saUpperFix.jpg

Replace the top and bottom SA bolts and nuts.

Torque up the SA carrier bolts to 80lbft. The top and bottom SA bolts are also 80 lbft. The bottom SA bolt is easy, but the top one is difficult to get a torque wrench to (At least with my kit), so I used "mechanicing judgement" on that one.

Replace the road wheel and the superdooperGoFasterAerodynamicFuelSaverGizmo. Lower the vehicle. Road wheel nuts are 76 lbft.

If you, can bounce the suspension a bit.

Toyota procedure calls for the rear suspension alignment to be checked at this point. Unless there is other suspension damage repair, or tyres are scrubbing, I don't see that it is necessary. It's quite an involved process too.

So, there you are. Next time the spotty "youf" in Kwikfit or wherever, tells you your shocks need replacing, thank him kindly for the advise, then check yourself and if necessary, replace them yourself. :thumbsup:

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Nice wan, shcm....will provide bed and brekky when mine need doned....!!!!

What surprises me is your car is a 2010 and needed a shocker done (so you rightly did both.) What mileage you at, and is this just down to bad luck / road fund licence actually being spent on wars abroad ?

....and wear bloody gloves...!!!!!

Big Kev

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.........thrown out like an old shoe!

:crybaby:

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Useful 'How to' there SHCM

Now, those 'superdooperGoFasterAerodynamicFuelSaverGizmos' - wonder if they retro-fit to earlier 4.3s?

Any idea Kingo?

If so, how much are they?

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I suspect it will take you 23 years to get it back Dave.

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.........thrown out like an old shoe! :crybaby:

You eat too much, and totty scone shortage still to be redressed...

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.........thrown out like an old shoe! :crybaby:

You eat too much, and totty scone shortage still to be redressed...

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I suspect it will take you 23 years to get it back Dave.

Yeah, I suspect the same Don.

I've got a couple of Heinz tins in the recycling bin - might just have to modify them and attach...............

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What surprises me is your car is a 2010 and needed a shocker done (so you rightly did both.) What mileage you at, and is this just down to bad luck / road fund licence actually being spent on wars abroad ?

....and wear bloody gloves...!!!!!

Big Kev

21Kish. Call me daft/stupid, but by the time I'd have made a significant detour to the dealer (twice, because the phone response was "bring it in and we'll take a look", which means 2 visits - second to actually fix it), then maybe argued the partial wear and tear, warranty etc, for the price of delivered shocks it was just less hassle and maybe less cash in time and fuel to DIY.

I suspect the Black Country/Brum roads. You complain about yours, but other than sections of rough worn tarmac on the A9, I haven't found 'em too bad. I think you have more solid bedrock, than we do around here. Lots of subsidence and uncharted old mine workings ;) :). i.e. ours are **** too, in my opinion.

I do have the gloves, but often forget them............ :nono:

.........thrown out like an old shoe!

:crybaby:

You can always let me know which bits you want pilfered off Kev's RAV ;)

I suspect it will take you 23 years to get it back Dave.

Yeah, I suspect the same Don.

I've got a couple of Heinz tins in the recycling bin - might just have to modify them and attach...............

I suspect they do "not a lot" too. Plus, I expect the arms have changed a tiny bit, i.e. you'd have the "major" ;) modification of drilling the arms for the 2 bolts and there's a couple of slots that the things hook into too.

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Nice how-to, Andy.

What made you look at the shocks? Getting thumping or something? I know with my Qashqai the shocks were a Definate weak point and would last around 20k and would be changed under warranty without quibbles, so a little 'shocked' both that you had to change yours at 21k and that it was not an automatic warranty job !

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Have you seen his car hoovie? He was probably underneath waxing the diff when he noticed unauthorised contamination (you can see soap suds in the photos).

Looking at the photos I suspect that one was damp rather than gone (did you test it afterwards shcm?) but he likes his car perfect.

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Now, those 'superdooperGoFasterAerodynamicFuelSaverGizmos' - wonder if they retro-fit to earlier 4.3s?

If I knew what they were...................... :rolleyes:

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What made you look at the shocks? Getting thumping or something? I

I just regularly look under the vehicle. Make sure all is well. :).

Looking at the photos I suspect that one was damp rather than gone (did you test it afterwards shcm?) but he likes his car perfect.

The photo was the "good" one. The "bad" one was dripping oil.

Now, those 'superdooperGoFasterAerodynamicFuelSaverGizmos' - wonder if they retro-fit to earlier 4.3s?

If I knew what they were...................... :rolleyes:

48737-42011 and 48738-42011 :P

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  • 11 months later...

Nice write up this. I've noticed a bit of thumping lately and thought i'd have a nosey underneath. Outcome is 3 shicks are leaking so i'll do all 4. Parts will be ordered tomorrow from resident parts supremo.

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What mileage you at, DP....?

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50k (i posted in the MPG yesterday 60k but that was missed placed finger on phone keyboard). 3.5 years old.

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Just for information for those who will use a Main Dealer for such a job.... Phoned my local dealer (RRG Bradford recently changed from WestRiding Toyota) and asked for a quote for supply and fit 4 shocks. Quote for the work £779.84 including parts.

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Front ones are a lot more involved than the rears Dom. You will defo need spring compressors and some quite heavy duty ones at that.

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Cheers Anc's. I'll be doing it down at the yard where I do a bit of work on Trucks so spring compressors etc all in hand. Not expecting it to be a 10min job but at £249 for the shocks from resident parts supremo, I can spend the rest on my jaunt to France in 2 weeks.

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Anc's have you any literature on the shocks and replacement procedure with associated torque settings?

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  • 2 months later...

Hi guys,

I saw your blog it's really great and helpful. I've got a couple of questions. It would be great if you could help me out.

Today is a sad day my Rav4 failed on MOT.

I need to replace the Link Assy on the RR and a shock absorber on the other side.

The question is is it worth to go with some upgrade one or should I go with the manufacturer one?

Also should I replace both sides might is am at it?

What about the bushes?

Thanks a lot.

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You buy a kit with the bushes included. I personally would only do one side. You can get it off kingo and I think the likes of euro car parts do them too.

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Thanks a lot anchorman. I was hoping they were coming with the bushes.

I was thinking about A.R.Bar bushes, wishbone bushes.

I heard if I replace them my car gonna feel like new.

You guys know anybody who supply and fit them on a Rav4 T180?

Thanks again.

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It isn't difficult if you fancy doing it yourself but any local garage will do it for you and it is easier working off a lift.

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  • 7 months later...

Our 2010 has just failed its mot due to shocks. Considering it is only 4 years old, very surprised. Quoted just under £700, but dealer had words with Mr T and the job was done for £85.

Pleased with the result. Hope these last a bit longer........

Peter

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