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Les "Giddlepin" Ackroyd - 1951 to 2016 - A well missed friend to everyone.
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53 posts in this topic
I\ve had my previous topic here
Basicly problems ive had
1. TRC + VSC + engine fault are on ( switches on even if you take them off, after like 10miles of driving on motorway - never in city )
2. Car was smoking white smoke so noone was standing even close
Ended up going to DIagnostic about it which sayd - Symptoms of blown head gasket, also may be Fuel injectors , And have extreme pressure in cooling system.
Went to service to do Head gasket, they made diagnostic before job again ( different service ) and sayd 5th Fuel injector was failing , so they replaced it by buying B/u one which lead my bill to 180quid ( some small jobs also been done with electronics )
So what ive got now.
TRC + VSC + engine fault still comes on , NO SMOKE , But car overheats now on 82+ miles that i didnt had before job was done. So im kind a worried since ive done already like 700 quid on repairs during like last 3 months, Done dpf removal + programming also on it.
Any ideas what should i do !? do not want to do Head gasket if it may not be the reason for those lights.
p.s TRC + VSC sometimes turns on at motorway, after driving another 5mins, i pull over ( reaching destination ) switch car off, and no lights comes on , drive like 10mins on motorway, they may come on, may come on with engine fault light.
This video is about the toyota prius temperature indicators cooling system and overheating indicators, i always thought that the prius didnt have any temperature indicators.
umm.. so I have been handed down a 1999 Yairs GLS 1.0 which had been off the road for almost 2 years. I have been working on it to clean it and make it roadworthy.
the car went on an MOT yesterday but they returned without it saying they cant perform it as its overheating. I was like uh-oh
I was surprised as I could hear the fan working very loudly and it would turn off but came back on instantly. The coolant temperature light wasn't on but he said all the pipes are pressurized and its not safe for them to conduct the test.
Now during the time I was working on the car [cleaning interior etc] I would often start the car and leave it running as it had been sitting for well over a year. All fluid levels were fine and never needed to top up anything. In 2 months I had only heard the fan once maybe twice but never so constantly like it was running in the testing station. The mechanic said the car has done too many miles so its not worth it and I should get rid of it.
So I got the car back and read a bit and here is the situation: The car starts with half a crank, green coolant light on, after 10-12 minutes of idling it will go away and stay off, the fan then kicked in and sounds like a jet engine, which I believe means its running on full speed. So either its off or on full speed. I understand there is a slowish speed it can operate on but thats not happening.
I figured I should start from checking weather thermostat is working or not. I did a cold start with radiator cap off and let the engine run, my standing is once the engine warms up, the thermostat will open and water will start swirling in the neck of the radiator. it didn't. The fan came on full speed, but water stayed still, just rising a bit and overflowing. I tried locating the thermostat by taking off the bottom radiator hose and the top one too from the engine side but there was no thermostat there. Its a Jap Yaris with 1.0 1SZ engine. Am I looking at the wrong place?
One more thing, while the dash was still showing the blue coolant light, water level rose up a couple of mm and overflowed through opening. Is that bad?
To make sure I fix this overheating issue, I have taken the radiator off and this is what it looks like so it is going to be replaced for sure.
I love my Yaris! even though I have never driven it on the road but working day in day out during lunches has made it very difficult for me to part with it without giving it a fair chance. Pleaseeee help me get this back on the road..
I am currently experiencing a whining noise from the engine bay that I believe to be an issue with the water pump. (Pink coolant around the pump, excessive heat from climate control, drop in coolant reservoir level)
I am just about to call toyota to get a quote for the parts needed, pump and assorted bolts, and was wondering if it was worth replacing the belt as well.
Also if anyone else has done it themselves, how difficult of a job was it. Looks easy enough in theory but does not seem to be much room within the engine bay to do it.
Any tips/advice would be much appreciated.
Hey all, I have corona premio 1.6 4A-FE engine auto 99' . Recently have had problems where it stalls when I slow down/stop either on lights/bumps after driving for a while. This gets worse during hot weather.
The temperatures go up, activates both radiator and AC fans..This time the RPMS gets very intermittent up and down and the car goes off.
I have changed fuel pump & fuel filter and still issue is not resolved.
What could be the cause?