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Carina E Resurrection


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So got around to looking at the old Carina E at the weekend, shes a 1996 1.6 gli (4A-FE) Liftback model - one owner since new, 191000 on the clock, my father parked it up about 5 years ago as he picked up another car and its been growing moss ever since.

Charged the Battery over night but it wasn't strong enough to get the engine to crank so threw it out and got one from the breaker - stuck it in and she started first time! impressive.

The wing mirror had been knocked off before it was parked up and tapped on, so got one on eBay, think it cost £5 - got that put on.

So its going to be my new project - needs a few more bits before i consider testing her.

Engine management light is on so will try get the code from that and see whats up. Exhaust is blowing - the hole is in end section - anyone know if an exhaust from a Generation 1 Avensis would suit? I saw one at the breakers at the weekend.

She will be due a belt after being sat there that long. Also the door rubber on drivers door has broken at the top so will need replacing. Breakers yard again i think.

Also i noticed after she ran for a while after warm-up, she seemed to mis-fire, struggled. not cutting out just not running right. Maybe an injector? I see that they can give a bit of trouble.

I will do as much as i can myself, but my knowledge is basic enough, e.g. oil, filters, plugs, brakes etc - but wouldn't dream of doing a belt change etc.

Interior is immaculate in this car. No pets, kids, smokers etc since new. Paint is red so its faded now. Will read up on cutting/rubbing compounds etc to bring her back. Bonnet however has large patches where the lacquer has lifted to will see if i can get another red one or else paint it.

Will post a few pics when i get a chance and also keep progress report on here.

Thanks for reading.

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  • 4 months later...

nice to hear you have a project planned. keep us updated.

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Excellent,glad to hear somebody is taking the time to bring an older car back from the brink of being scrapped.

If she's be lying 5 years change the oil quick as oil breaks down over time,also you're misfire could simply be old plugs,leads etc.It's amazing how often changing the plugs n leads makes so much difference :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

thanks guys-

finally got some time at the weekend to have a look. I got a code 21 on the OBD when i jumped the terminals - as i suspected its a fault with the Lambda/Oxygen sensor. seems these are particular to the Carina E and you must get the correct one - e.g. the one from the 1.8 auto wont work in the 1.6 manual etc. something to do with the LeanBurn system in the car, so i am contacting the breakers to see if i can get one cheap (so if anyone knows a 1.6 manual laying around..... :-) ) But i will also try change the plugs and leads too as @fastbob suggests -

Otherwise i was inspecting the paint, as you would expect from a red car thats been sitting about for a few years, its a nice hazy shade of Pink. So i got out the polish and wax and tried a patch on the read quarter - comes up great! I spoke to a mate who does body work about the bonnet and he says it will need spraying, which i dont want to do, so will keep an eye out for a use done in red.

The exhaust is really loud. the hole is near the cat - so not sure if it can be repaired but i am going to take it out and see, my father in law is pretty handy with a welder so I will get him to take a look

As you can expect from a car of its age thats not on the road, its not worth much - hence the budget approach to this job, but its an interesting project for me, i will gain some knowledge and i kind of like the car, its been in the family since new.

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think i may have a sensor sourced - will try grab at weekend - could also be injectors - but will try the sensor first and then if that doesnt cure it will try rotate a new injector -

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  • 9 months later...

A quick update on this, being doing a bit lately, misfire was injector number 4 - gave it the screwdriver test and she wasn't firing, so i replaced it, bit of a fiddly job but i was able for it (im learning lots on this project :-) ) - i was careful to get the same colour one from a breaker as i read thats critical, think it was 30 euros.

I sourced and fitted a new lambda/O2 sensor - simple job, two bolts and one connector and in a very accessible location. Again it had to be a particular sensor, critical for the lean burn system in the car, so it was a bit of a search but eventually got one from a breaker, £20 plus a few bob to post it to me.

Oil change and filter, plugs, coolant and air filter also changed. will need 4 tyres to pass NCT (MOT) but it will be a couple of months until i get around to doing that.

I have managed to get it indoors into a garage nearby so its out of the elements - so i have been inspecting the paint - i polished with Farecla and then a coat of wax - did the two front wings and they came up very well - so i think a good wash, polish and wax and she will look decent. Except the bonnet - this panel has lost most of of its lacquer - if i cant source a red bonnet in good condition it will need painting which i am reluctant to do as it will surely stick out on an 18 year old car -

The exhaust was broken just after the middle box (silencer??, cat?? not sure) i patched it with some sheet metal and some 2 inch claps and some gun gum, improved it a lot but its still blowing a bit - i just got a welder so when i have a bit on confidence i will try welding it properly.

Will get a few pics next time i am working on it.

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  • 2 months later...

another update - car is driving a whole lot better now with the work done so far - engine is hunting a bit when idling so i will look into that - exhaust was two thin for me to weld with the arc welder i got, but i managed to patch it up with slightly narrow diamater pipe and some clamps. still not ideal though.

Put new discs and pads on the front last weekend, was just finishing up and about to take it for a spin when i pumped the brakes a few times to get the pistons back in place, then the pedal gave away and i heard a "pssst" from the rear of the car - the line had sprung a leak :-( so this will need patching - I have a pipe cutter, bender and some brake line, so if i can find a flaring tool i can give it a go.

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  • 1 month later...

the brake line leak is in an awkward position for me to patch so will get it to the local mechanic to do that job - lately i have managed to paint the bonnet - it was my first time painting and i learned a lot - came out ok, certainly an improvement :-)

post-128593-0-37699600-1410442938_thumb.

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  • 6 months later...

any colour carina! ;-)

So since last update, i have painted the steelies black - prepped with steel brush on the drill to get all the crud and rust off used Rustoleum thinned a little with white spirits and given three coats with the gun, no primer - finish is extremely good - i was amazed, its great paint.

removed the throttle body and cleaned it up, also cleaned up the air control valve, this was jammed and it was resulting in a high idle - maybe 1200/1300 revs. its down to normal now.

changed the fuel filter also.

otherwise have been giving my little spare time to the avensis, its going through a lot of oil and firing up errors , changed the oil today and filter and also added an oil treatment - while doing it noticed a little leak from a nut so a few turns on it and i hope that may be the (partial) cause of the oil loss - i know the vvti's use a bit so i think its a combination of burn and leak.

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  • 2 weeks later...

yep will take a few photos when i get it cleaned up a bit more - i hope to have it back on the road in the next couple of weeks

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heres a sneak preview - i have it taxed and insured, waiting on a test date but once i get one i can drive it away - hope to get a good clean up done this weekend - bonnet will need a proper respray but i am not in a major hurry for that - going to do the bumpers while i am at it - scuffed at every corner.

post-128593-0-31344300-1428048102_thumb.

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wow,impressive.... love that colour too has a real. nice deep. shine :)

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When I was working for a Ford dealers as. a valeter (oh sorry, they're called detailers nowadays lol) I always felt certain colour come up nicer than others and bright red the best of all..... it can be hard to look after n keep at it's best because like white and black any imperfections or dirt in general shows up like a sore thumb, there's nothing sadder than someone who's allowed their red to fade to salmon pink although it can be sorted, I spent days on a really faded pink 190E that had led a hard life as a taxi, was a slow week so they allowed me to spend a day or two on it to keep me quiet, well I managed to get it back to looking like your Carina. from a horrible bloomed. pink that was. so. flat. it. couldn't reflect a shadow under a spot light, the texture was almost. powdery like it been. painted a. pastel pink.from.B&Q......they were. gonna recycle it maybe getting £50 for it as it was worthless but ended up. putting on the forecourt for over £2000.

If look after this one in the way it seems that you are i bet you could pull up next. to someone at the petrol.station in a brand new car n yours will outshine their new car.

Funny enough dark green was another colour that responded very well to serious effort.... as long as it's not metallic paint. lol

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didnt get near t this weekend, but from tomorrow it will get a daily 60 mile spin - so we will see how she is really going - hope it doesnt let me down.

have one niggle i must sort, the central locking is not working from the drivers door lock - from the passenger door is fine and also the door locking button on the drivers door controls - id say a linkage is worn that runs off the drivers door actuator - will remove the door card and investigate

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Is it locked by the key in the drivers door lock or remotely, never actually driven a Carina so am not sure, if it is key activated you should be able to feel if the actuator is siezed,should be easy enough to diagnormse but a fiddly job at times

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locked with a key in the door - so yeah id say i will whipping off the door card and starting with the actuator

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Sorry to hijack your thread but I've a niggly problem with my central locking too. Passenger rear door doesn't respond to either remote or key locking. Doesn't do anything when you press the door lock button on the drivers door card either. Completely unresponsive ... Rolling the button (part of the inside handle) on inside of the door itself is the only way to lock / unlock that door.

Should I be looking at the lock mechanism in the door ? Any particular part of it ?

Thanks for any help

Sent from my iPhone using Toyota OC

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Hi MJJ, can't say for certain which part is actually gone but if you remove the door trim (years of experience have taught me be gentle, remove ever fixing including any hidden ones that maybe behind the latch inside or the arm rest and then ease a flat screwdriver in behind the panel low and pop it free..... being assertive removing trim panels is always a diaaster lol). With the trim removed you should be able to see if any rods or links have come undone, wires disconnected or broken. The inner lock button working but no response through the drivers key or main locking panel suggests electrical though.

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Hi, thanks for the reply!

Yeah definitely suspect it's an electrical issue. I'll whip the door card off at some point and suss out the problem.

I've a defo working spare door lock mechanism for that door but I remember it was a pig to get out of my old car and don't fancy trying to switch it for the probably faulty one in my current car ....

Sent from my iPhone using Toyota OC

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  • 1 month later...

i have developed a squeal when car starts up and the steering wheel is turned - I would think the powersteering belt is stretched/loose - because of its age, i will have a go at replacing it - not sure if just adjusting the pulley to tighten it will do so replacement will be best option -

has anyone done this before on a 4afe? not sure if i need to remove the alternator belt first to get the PS belt off.

thanks

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i have developed a squeal when car starts up and the steering wheel is turned - I would think the powersteering belt is stretched/loose - because of its age, i will have a go at replacing it - not sure if just adjusting the pulley to tighten it will do so replacement will be best option -

has anyone done this before on a 4afe? not sure if i need to remove the alternator belt first to get the PS belt off.

thanks

This may sound like a stupid question but isn't it one single drivebelt that drives your alternator, water pump, a/c compressor if you have one plus the power steering pump. Normally when you turn the steering when stationary it puts a much greater load on the pump than if your moving..they always recommend you pull away and don't turn the steering wheel when stationary but who listens lol.

A worn and shiny or stretched belt can slip or stick at times and that's normally what causes that shrieking squealing sound, turning the steering not moving will just exacerbate the problem further.

An old trick is to rub a little soap or wax in the belt, a gentle rub not lathered or plastered as that gives it a little lubrication without using any kind of oil which would obviously be a mad thing to do.

I've just had a quick scan at my Haynes for the Avensis and I appologise you're rigjt it's not one single drivebelt but 2 or 3.It appears to be the old thinner toothed kind which were always bad for squealing when they got old.

It also states that the power steering pump pivots and has an adjuster lock bolt, similar to the way you move the altenator towards the block on it's pivot to remove the belt and then push it back out to tension it...... if that helps :)

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