AdBlock WarningParts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.
7 posts in this topic
I have a 2006 (56) petrol Rav4. I have attached the page for oil...but I am having serious difficulty finding the specific oil they recommend. I can find 5w-30 everywhere but it recommends the 'SM' or 'SL' grades.
The only grade that is close to those which I can find is 'SN' (not 'SM'). Is that the same thing? Also, do the 'C' numbers affect anything? (e.g. C3)?
I realise getting the right oil is important and I know I need to get 5w-30 but the details are giving me a headache! I don't want to use the wrong oil so any help is muchly appreciated. Many thanks.
Rav4 Engine Cutting Out And Not Starting - Fuel Issue? Help Damsel In
I am really hoping someone can help and give me some advice - especially as I am female!
I have owned Rav 4's in the past and I used to have an issue with them pulling on an incline in 5th gear. The car would always cut out but then restart fine.
Only a week ago I bought a 2003 Rav4 D4D. 126,500 miles on the clock. I have been in the back of an AA van 4 times in a week - you can probably sense my frustration!
The first time I broke down was on the way home from buying the car. I was driving 80mph (!) on a slight incline on the M6. The engine management light came on and the car lost all power. I slowed to a halt on the hard shoulder ... not fun with two babies in the back!
I was confident it would restart as I thought it was the same issue with my previous car but it would not start for love nor money. The AA put her on the back of the truck and towed me 10 minutes to the nearest services. The car came off the truck, and she started!!! The car had just under 3/4 tank of diesel also.
No fault codes, nothing apparently wrong with it so I carried on home.
Around 3 hours later I came off of the motorway and stopped at the lights. Car just ticking over, and then it died. Same thing, and wouldnt start. I was towed by a chap that felt sorry for me, just around the corner where the car was jump started and then went home fine. I then thought it might be a battery issue as the car seemed to have the original battery and took a while to start - kept ticking over.
The 3rd time I broke down I parked facing downhill. Did some shopping, came back and started the car. It started but by the time I strapped my seatbelt in the car cut out and again wouldnt start.
The AA came out again - it wouldnt jump start and said there was an issue with the fuel pressure. They sprayed that fuel in a can into the engine and the car would rev but as soon as you stopped spraying it would lose all power. Checked the fuel tank which appears to have a big dent in it which led to them thinking maybe the fuel gage was wrong. The fuel was reading dead on a 1/4. AA put a gallon of diesel in, used the rest of the can of fuel spray and she started. Got her on the flat and put fuel in, drove home fine. Said the EGR valve may need cleaning.
Cleaned the EGR valve - it was caked in crap. Filthy. That is now clean. I have ordered fuel, oil, air and pollen filters (came as a set) to replace at some point this week.
BUT, I broke down again this morning.
Dual carriageway, driving 60mph up a slight incline in 4th gear. I wasnt pushing the car to the max and she felt like she was pulling fine. All of a sudden, car looses power and I am again stuck with a baby, on a 60mph road, on a blind corner. Why do we always brake down in the worst places?
Tow truck turned up (third party as the AA were busy). By this time, the hazards had completely killed the battery and the car was unable to be started. Towed home and I went and bought a new Yausa (spelling) battery for £130. AA came to my home address and again, found no fault codes. New battery, started really quickly and drove fine.
So what is the issue? I have been reading about the fuel pick up and potentially a damaged fuel tank? The engine appears to not be getting fuel when this happens and it limp modes and then dies.
Could it be the SCV valves? Purely a dirty (I mean REALLY dirty) fuel filter?
The car in March 2014, had a brand new fuel pump, fuel filter, cambelt and oil filter. Two months later, a brand new turbo was fitted. So it has had the major works done that you would first think of.
I have some turbo cleaner to put in the tank but haven't yet as the fuel tank may need to come off and to be honest, I also dont want to keep driving it too much without the fuel filter having been replaced.
Can anyone help? The alternator is charging fine so it isnt a fault there.
When accellerating from 1st gear through to second and third, between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM you can feel the car physically holding back. Then when its past 3,000 its like an elastic band has been let off and off the car goes. But I am scared to drive it now because after the 3,000 RPM is also when the car has cut out - but twice only ever at high speed. The time at the traffic lights when stationary could have been down to a knackered battery.
The car even with this new batter now doesnt like to start quickly. It takes 15 or seconds to get it going. It wasnt like it when i test drove it - probably because they had whizzed around in it just before (ANGRY FACE).
My friend is a mechanic so I am trying (!) to figure out a fault before I send it into the garage. The garage also said, its almost impossible to find the fault whilst its running fine and even when it isnt - no codes are coming up to tell them what it is.
I really hope someone can help me please !
Locked Rear Diff. Help!
Last Friday I bought a 2004 Rav4 D4D with 130,000 miles on, from a 2nd hand car dealer.
It had passed it's MOT on Thursday (as a condition of the sale)
I taxed and insured it, drove it to work, then home. (maybe 8 miles?)
On Sunday I set off from West Yorkshire to Durham in it, got on the motorway after 10 minutes of city driving got up to 70mph and...
The rear wheels locked without warning pitching me into a 360 spin across the lanes.
Luckily no one else was on the road as it was early and I spun to a stop just off the hard shoulder.
I managed to get the car to go onto the hard shoulder out of the way, but it felt like the front wheels we dragging the rear ones, and one i'd got it a few yards I couldn't move it anymore.
I have no idea what to do about this, the car is back with the garage that MOT'd it, but I'm scared they are cowboys.
Is this a problem? Is there a simple fix? Any advice would be very very welcome.
As it happened no one was hurt and (apart from the rear wheels not moving) the car is unharmed, but if there had been other road users, or if I'd spun right instead of left it could have been a very different story.
Rear Seat Not Able To Fold Forward
As you know there is a small black lever to allow each rear seat base to hinge forward and fold behind the front seats
There are two, one for each rear seat
One works the other does not so the seat is locked in the standard position
Is there a fix for this?
The grey material tab that one pulls to release the entire seat seems jammed as it does not open the hinges to allow the seat to be removed
Any ideas, solutions most welcome. I need to fold the seat so a dog can be behind the seats
Many thanks (picture attached)