Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Yaris 53 Plate D4D Idle Not Consistent Running When Starting From Cold


borderman46
 Share

Recommended Posts

if i take the air pipe off egr valve the car idles correctly and revs normal ,if i reconnect it the problem comes back if i take the pipe off the throttle control valve also the car rev normal,the cars done 37000 miles i have cleaned the egr nothing of concern it was ok ,i cleaned the mass airflow with proper cleaner no change is there anything else i can check , air filter all ok , the car when warm runs and ticks over as normal .strange problem will an egr valve cause the throttle control valve to operate without touching the throttle in the car .??????????????

video link to problem http://tinypic.com/r/103syt1/8

Link to comment
Share on other sites


It'd be worth checking the throttle body too (It's the brassy thing attached to the left-side of the intercooler with a short but thick rubbery hose. It has this vacuum operated lever which will kick when the engine is idling if it's blocked.)

There is a teeny tiny air channel hole in it that runs to the EGR which is probably blocked; Whenever I have this issue of the uneven idle it is because this thing needed cleaning out. Quite easy to clean; Just need to remove the few bolts that attach the throttle body, take it off (Be careful not to drop the gasket plate thing as it's a bugger to fish out!) and give it a good blast and/or soak with carb cleaner.

There are a few threads with much better instructions and pictures if you do a quick search in the Yaris forum. HTH!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi thanks for the reply i have not taken this off the car as yet .but when you press the leaver up on the throttle body there is no restriction when holding your finger over the hole theirs plenty of air pressure ,am i missing something here is this suppose to do this,i am not 100% what i am looking for where can i find other links on this problem thanks .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How big is this tiny hole to.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Toyota OC mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There an hole at the back but not tiny one

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Toyota OC mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Is this the hole??????

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Toyota OC mobile app

post-139688-139695815787_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you press this lever it make a noise. I blew down the pipe connected to this and there is no obstuction or restrictions????

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Toyota OC mobile app

post-139688-139695824605_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For some reason there is a problem between the egr valve and throttle body?????

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Toyota OC mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apart from the idle issus the car drives with no problem no loss of power in drive or stalling its definitely and air problem

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Toyota OC mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I cleaned the EGR valve on my Yaris d4d, I also cleaned out the compartments behind - using a rotary drill , a screwdriver and lots of carb cleaner. It was quite badly choked up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorted thanks guys for the help well chuffed it was all choked up. As runs like a new car now.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Toyota OC mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks to this forum Toyota won't be getting my money this time around :@)

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Toyota OC mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Inside the throttle venturi ( see picture ) is a small air hole which blocks with carbon you will need a pipe cleaner to clear it see: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/85740-idle-eratic-d4d-yaris-solution/page-2

post-45863-0-56950300-1396995016_thumb.p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The hole I was talking about is inside the throttle body and will be almost invisible if it's been blocked up (I missed it the first time I took it apart!)

From memory it's about the size of a 5p and leads to an air channel in the engine block that seems to go back to the EGR.

Glad you got it sorted :thumbsup:

It's such a simple thing but makes such a big difference! Toyota really should add this to the service schedule; It's not even a hard or long job if you have carb cleaner and something to poke the hole and channel out with!

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I neally missed it lol the car drives great now we only bought it over a week ago and thought here we go big garage bills, I can do a lot of things on cars but its always problem when you can't put your finger on what's causing it. Am I glad you told me about it thanks

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Toyota OC mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad I could help :); Just sharing the knowledge as others here shared it with me when I had the same problem! :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi what's the recommended oil needed for the yaris and how much is needed, and is the fuel filter on the d4d easy to change and prime. I seen kits on eBay are these OK to use for serviceing the car. As I do my own service would you recommend every 6000 miles or 12 months.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Toyota OC mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have done ALL my servcing on my 2003 Yaris D4D since 2007..

1. 5-30 semi synthetic is Toyota's current recommendation (for almost all the engines in their range as well - except hybrids iirc)

I use fully synthetic bought on offer at Asda- or ECP - or Morrisons... approx £20 for 4 liters. Or Halfords who have offers...

2. You actually need around 4.5 liters - which as oil is usually in 4 liters in a pia. I just add the final 1/2 liter from whatever 5-50 or 5-40 I have around.. makes minimal difference.

3. I always - but always use a genuine oil filter - the extra cost vs non OE brands in not a lot IIRC Pentagon Toyota sell on eBay - I buy from them as they are 25% cheaper than our local dealer.

I long ago decided that economy on oil/oil filters is a false economy as the cost of failure if it goes wrong outweigh the savings by a factor of hundreds! But in reality any good branded name should be ok...

Changing the fuel filter is easy. I have done it twice.. Access is a little difficult but no problems. bleeding is push a button till it's hard. Even I can do that. :-)

Servicing kits - see my comments on oil filters..

(I would trust ECP parts check them out - usually they have local shops)

Change the pollen filter - under glove box at the same time - amazing how neglected they can be.

I change oil every two years or 3,000 miles as my wife now uses the car - and does v low miles. I used to do it annually every 7k miles (approx) when in normal use.

Hope that helps. Ask away for more if you need anything..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share




×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership