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Dual Mass To Single Mass Flywheel


geoweb2k14
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Hi guys. My 2005 avensis d4d 2lt needs a new clutch kit and flywheel. Has anyone done a conversion kit from a dual mass to a single mass flywheel and if they have has it worked out fine. The reason I asked is because it looks like Toyota owners and indeed mechanics are divided on this issue.

Thanks and I await your replies.

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Are you sure you want convert to single mass? You'll have to replace engine mounts sooner, and whole car will vibrate more at idle - my experience.

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Cheers morxan,, you have made my mind up for me. Dual mass it is then as I could do without all the after trouble too. Thanks a mill for your advice.

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The solid flywheel is the cheaper option. If it was the same amount of price as a DMF I don't think many people would go for it.

If what they say is true, it kills the gearbox/crank overtime. I rather put DMF when it goes than a box or engine.

I went DMF & Clutch (LuK as this was the make that was stamped on original along with Toyota)

read my thread. I changed mine at 160k,clutch started slipping and pedal was stiff to press, there was no flywheel rattle on idle but after taking it out there is fair amount of play, (see video in thread)

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/160162-attempting-a-clutch-change-on-a-d4d-2004-avensis-1cd-ftv/

what is the mileage on yours?

I enjoy driving mine now much more smooth and feels more responsive.

at the end of the day this my opinion, up to you what you want to do.

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Hi. There is 294k km on it now. I bought it as a second owner with 220k on it. A sales rep owned it before me but no record of clutch/flywheel done (fsh up to 120k only). There is no rattle on idol that I can hear but that said I wouldn't really know what to listen out for. All I can say is clutch is as stiff as f--- and squeaks like hell. Some mornings it sticks to the floor and I have to pull it back up. Have smelt the occasional clutch burn but not regularly. Noticed a loss of poke to in it and starter acts up after a decent drive when I try to restart. That's all the info I can furnish you with. Thanks for your reply

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flywheel noise is normally like metal on mental on idle or when you rev your engine, and normally goes away when the clutch is depressed.

Since I bought my car I had a very very heavy clutch pedal. It was really really stiff, So I changed the master cylinder its around £100-130 for the part.(the dealer did advise that they it had changed part numbers twice, Kingo has mentioned in the past that that the internals of master cylinder were revised) but you may already have the revised one as my car is 2004 yours is 2005.

I never managed to find a after market one so had to go to the dealer if you do decide to change this, make sure you change the push rod bush too(most likely to be worn)

The pedal hitting the floor maybe due to a knackered slave cylinder which is found outside the box- I also had to change this when I done my master cylinder as my old one wouldn't bleed properly and the pedal wouldn't come all the way up, I had to lift it by foot by a couple of inches. This can part can be obtained via the after market(but I used a genuine) around (50-60).

so after this the clutch pedal was a lot lighter but not as light as you expected, but I lived with it, until my father bought a 2006 pre facelift same engine with 84,000, the clutch pedal was a dream light and smooth.

This got me wanting it like this. recently my biting point got higher, so far is your biting point? So I decided to change my clutch and flywheel, Nice and smooth pedal nice biting point.

bit of info that might help.

When you press on the clutch pedal it forces hydraulic fluid from the Master cylinder to the Slave cylinder. The Slave cylinder then forces the clutch plate away from the flywheel face, effectively disconnecting the engine from the drive train. When you release the clutch pedal the springs in the clutch push the slave cylinder back, sending the fluid back to the Master cylinder.

also go to post 7 on this thread and download the clutch pdf provided by Pete.

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/120775-05-avensis-clutch-pedal-squeak-l700/

I hope this helps.

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Thanks for your swift reply Avensisd4d, I have already changed the slave cylinder as there was a squeek coming from it too but it made no difference. In fact it also squeeked so I'm totally frustrated. Would a dumb ***** like me even notice the sound of a bad dmf? There are no obvious sounds that are out of the ordinary. Should I just wait a little longer and hope it goes for another while or at my mileage would I be better off having a complete dmf/clutck kit change? Assuming that is the problem. Cheers....

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Oh forgot to mention that my bite point on the clutch is quite good. Prob lifts half an inch to engage. Cheers

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Some mornings it sticks to the floor and I have to pull it back up.

did this happen after the slave cylinder was changed if yes was it bled by manually or vacuum/eezi bleed. http://www.halfords.com/motoring/garage-equipment/car-tools/gunson-eezibleed

I find that manually bleeding the slave cylinder does not work on these.

these advice was given to me by Pete.

I asked him advice on a heavy clutch pedal (but I didn't have the problem where the pedal was on the floor)

I think you should check all the linkages and pivots first, disconnect the master cylinder pushrod from the pedal and see if the pedal is still stiff. Then i would think about checking the slave cylinder pivot, maybe the release bearing is jamming as it slides forward ... then changing the master cylinder if nothing found. In the end the clutch assembly maybe knackered but do the cheapest way first.

I followed that, did take me about a year though as I tried to avoid the clutch/flywheel change.

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Is it a big job to disconnect the master cylinder push rod from the pedal or where will I start. I'm trying to do some eliminating before I need to fill a mechanics pocket with money. Oh! The clutch was exactly the same before I changed the slave cylinder so its not that. Thanks again.

Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0100 using Toyota OC mobile app

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There is nothing Attached to the message you sent me

Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0100 using Toyota OC mobile app

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try going on the computer/laptop then looking.

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Ok will do

Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0100 using Toyota OC mobile app

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Your squeek will probably be the pivot ball joint where the clutch fork pivots on....There will be no grease bone dry...its a gearbox out job just to grease it..

I found I needed to push the slave cylinder piston in all the way in while pressure bleeding to get all the air out of the system....

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  • 2 years later...

Just took the clutch off my 2005 wagon as it was slipping. The dmf was completely shagged and the clutch plate almost like new except hardened and polished from slipping. The clutch and flywheel was done at the same time. So decided to go for SMF as I cant see the point in going DMF if they are wearing out faster than the clutches (45k) and always felt cautious with the dmf when towing, reversing up a hill with a trailer has always been a big no no even when new, had considered a stage 2 clutch for the dmf before I found it to be shagged. The smf pressure plate and clutch plate is much larger in size than the dmf versions, and has different angles supposedly this reduces vibration in the same way. Will have back together tomorrow and will report my findings.

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I had a smf conversion an lasted 1 year very poor I put in a luk dmf kit now I have a slight crunch in 3rd it only happened when I put the smf in..though if your not too worried about your car and it's just for towing put a good clutch in along with the smf

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You must have crunched that gear. Sorry to hear yours lasted just a year. in all honesty I'm doing over 45k a year if I can nurse this avensis to last that long it would have outperformed the previous luk flywheel.

I don't read into dmf killing your engine to much, not now at 125k on the clock. In my experience what is more likely to kill the car is an expensive clutch replacement where financially its not worth it anymore. Before dmf came about we all ran smf's and they had no issues then, are we now saying they are building weaker engines and boxes or what?

I thought they were brought about by ford on their ghia range purely for the feel. along with the things like doors that closed with a certain plushness.

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I agree totally regarding the poor engines and gearboxes.I had bought a vauxhall insignia had it 1 week handed back with gearbox issues of which they had refurbished the gearbox prior to me buying it..the smf I bought was probably a cheap piece of rubbish as the smf for the avensis was hard to find.but it definitely messed up my 3rd gear.

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I think a lot of it is luck of the draw, Incorectly fitted parts, bolts uneven torque etc. Other than the clutch and belts and usual serviceable items my 2005 avensis is still all factory original parts at 125k its done well. the d4d engine imo are built very well, still much quieter running than most new diesels.

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33 minutes ago, frankie406 said:

I agree totally regarding the poor engines and gearboxes.I had bought a vauxhall insignia had it 1 week handed back with gearbox issues of which they had refurbished the gearbox prior to me buying it..the smf I bought was probably a cheap piece of rubbish as the smf for the avensis was hard to find.but it definitely messed up my 3rd gear.

Which kit was it out of interest?

 

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To be honest I can't remember which. But I was told to stay away from Valeo clutches/dmf kits...was speaking to a taxi driver here has a smf in for the last 3 years and no issues at all.like you say luck of the draw I guess.

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On 2/14/2017 at 9:08 AM, avensis2005Jn said:

. Before dmf came about we all ran smf's and they had no issues then, are we now saying they are building weaker engines and boxes or what?

I thought they were brought about by ford on their ghia range purely for the feel. along with the things like doors that closed with a certain plushness.

Not really, DMF's were introduced because diesel engines were getting much more powerful and customers demanded more refinement. You get bags of torque in a modern diesel, the DMF reduces the harshness that is produced, especially at low revs. Modern engines produce more vibration at low revs, and the DMF dampens the effect. Manufacturers don't put things on cars for the fun of it, they do it for specific reasons, engine longevity for one, without it being destroyed by vibration. :thumbsup: 

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2 hours ago, Parts-King said:

Not really, DMF's were introduced because diesel engines were getting much more powerful and customers demanded more refinement. You get bags of torque in a modern diesel, the DMF reduces the harshness that is produced, especially at low revs. Modern engines produce more vibration at low revs, and the DMF dampens the effect. Manufacturers don't put things on cars for the fun of it, they do it for specific reasons, engine longevity for one, without it being destroyed by vibration. :thumbsup: 

And for the high charges they put on when you need a new one 😉

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