100K Mile Service And Brake Fluid Question

[oldcodger]

Hi,

And the correct dilution rate is......................?

Got a leak from the gasket ?

Valve clearances, hmmm ,thats adanvced, got a haynes manual or similar to guide you ?

Doing anything about a clearance that well out of spec is a big job and bet the shims will be an order only part..

Does the engine sound 'tappy'

[roks]

Hi,

Well, I mentioned to the guy 50/50 and he said that would be fine for down to -25c. I still have 250ml left so I'll add that in undiluted as a top up when required.

As for the leak, there was some oil in the middle two plugs some time ago, so I tightened the bolts a bit so nothing in the well since I last checked in July. To test I cleaned the grease round the cover and left it all dry, now I see the gasket is wet and silky/shiny so I assume there is a slight weep there to the right half, rear and left side of the cover, but not dripping...yet.

I thought since I am there, I'll just check the clearance as there is this 'tappy' noise and its not the quietest engine but its ok (I did listen to someone else's 52plate and I could not here the same noise.)

So, I guess if I did find there was something out of spec, its going to cost me a bit since replacing/adjusting is beyond my DIY scope.

I'll have a re-read of the Haynes manual but I find its not as detailed as I'd like it to be.

[roks]

While I had the wheels off for bleeding the brakes, I measured the brake discs, the front is 24.8mm and the rear is 8.5mm (with a noticeable lip).

How long can I go on before I need to change the rear discs?

I was thinking of Fremax (£30 a pair, cheapest) or Pagid (£46 a pair), waiting for quote from mr,T as well.

Any issues with the Freemax, are they ok? or will it rust after few months?

Thanks

[oldcodger]

Hi,

The disc thickness are give in the Haynes manual so you can see they are within spec.

You will always get a rust ridge, you can rub the outer ones off if you want, whats more important is the smoothness of the actual braking area, if its badly 'rippled/ bumpy' or scored and also wearing thin then its time to fit new pads and discs , as matched pairs.

Dont know of Freemax and only ever used one set of pagid brake pads on my old avensis and they are the only pads that ever squeaked on me, so returned to my old favorite Ferodo pads

Used both Ferodo and Comline discs, both ok for me.

[roks]

Hi,

Front is no issues, well within spec.

For the rear, minimum is 8mm, (new 9mm), its at 8.5mm at the moment, so I'm am just wondering how long that will take to get to 8mm. Its not a 'must change now' job, just looking out.

I change the rear pads couple of months ago with Pagid, no squeaks as such, just slight every now and then, I guess its still bedding in.

[oldcodger]

Hi,

It all depends on how many miles a year you do and how you drive and brake.

You should be doing an oil change/service at least one a year; I generally do a brake check every 6 months so I don't get any surprises.

Only ever had one brake failure whilst driving, long time ago, that teaches you the hard way to service the brakes properly and regularly.

Have you double checked your flexible hoses , particularly around the metal ferrules, and where the metal brake pipes go under, almost hidden) the rear beam for corrosion on your 10 year old car - they should be cleaned, inspected and treated with something appropriate like rubber safe white grease spray - both mot failures

[roks]

I do oil and filter change every year (around June/July).

The flexible hose by the calipers look good, I'll check the metal pipes next time I get the car up.

Thanks

[roks]

Oldcodger, hope you are well.

All seem ok with the brake flush couple of nigley bits.

In order to get the fluid level down to the Max line, I drained fluid down to the strainer inside the reservoir but when I look at the level from outside, the fluid level is still 4-5mm above the max line.

The other thing is that there is a creaky/squeaky noise from the padel at the very end of the push. I don't know if it was there before.

Other those, the brake seems to be working ok, the abs activated when I was testing on wet surface.

Thanks.

[oldcodger]

Hi,

I would not worry if its a little above the max level, mine often is, it will soon drop as your pads wear down.

The clutch squeak is a known problem, which I have also had; the solution is a bit of a back breaker !

You need a can of spray white grease , which is importantant as it is rubber safe.

Remove the bottom dash board pedal cover, 2/3 screws, and spray around the clutch pedal pivot points and springs in case they are dry, pressing the pedal between sprays to work it in.

The usual culprit is where the pedal plunger goes in to the actual clutch cylinder, you want to press the pedal in and then spray into its hole and then slowly relase and press th pedal again to work it around, repeat again etc.

There is another point of squeak, where the slave cylinders piston pushes against the actual clutch arm, like a ball and socket, do the simlar to that, but do not spray inside the arms / bellhousing opening or you could contaminate the clutch itself.

[roks]

Hi,

I have a can of this white grease, is that any good? It doesnt say lithium or rubber safe.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/d60/Lubricants+Sprays/sd2795/White+Grease/p10203

[oldcodger]

Hi,

I have a can of this white grease, is that any good? It doesnt say lithium or rubber safe.

Hi,

Cannot say with authority if that can would be ok; over the years a couple of very experienced mechanics / mot testers have always recommended white grease to spray around brake pipes / hoses and general suspension parts / rubbers to protect them.

Have used it for many, many years without a problem.

I know some cans I have bought clearly say Rubber Safe, but just looking at the can I currenty have , Comma, it does not say anything.

You could buy some Red Grease for key areas like the clutch cyliner plunger, or anything rubber on your brakes, thats what its designed for.

Castol do tubs, but I have bought little 'mini' tubes for a few pence from good auto spare shops.

[roks]

Finally got down to doing the valve cover gasket and intake gasket. They looked ok from outside, but they were semi brittle, glad I've done it.

Also got to check the valve clearance, they are within spec but they are not all same.

attachment=20154:post-123867-0-13015100-1433884888.jpg]

On another note, one of the front wheel does not seem to spin free as the other. Would that cause uneven tyre ware? Or is the resistance due to wheel out of alignment.

[oldcodger]

Cannot see how suspension alignment would affect the wheels ability to rotate.

More likely the brake pads are catching the disc ? - squeeze the caliper on to push the piston back a bit so the pads run free and then see how the wheel rotates.

[roks]

Thanks Oldcodger, I'll check the callipers again, perhaps re-grease them.

Also forgot to mention that I've changed the PCV valve, its supposed to be 30Nm, but its so tight I cant get the last thread to fit flush, due to the pre-applied sealant.

Haven't started the engine yet, still need to fill the engine oil and spark plugs.

What does it mean when the spark plug has burn mark on the porcelain part?

[oldcodger]

Did not know a 1.6 petrol had a PCV valve ? a pipe yes, but valve ? .. thought it was only fitted to a diesel ?

Burnt mark on the spark plug, either some electrical burn out or gasses from the engine if the plug not threaded right ..

Either way, fit a new plug and torque carefully, usually put a Bit of copper grease on the threads, but well away from the electrode tip.

[roks]

Yes, the pcv valve is screwed on the valve cover, right hand side.

Found out a bit more about the spark plugs, its called "Corona stain". I've torqued it down this time, before it was by feel.

Had a look at the calliper, the slider pins move freely, looks like the piston might be sticking, next job.....piston overhaul?