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2.0 D4D Gear Linkage Selector Cables Change


avensisd4d786
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has anyone changed these cables before, I have finally managed to get some. any tips

I have looked at the work shop manual

I do not understand this bit

HINT:
COMPONENTS: See page 41–10
1. REMOVE AIR CONDITIONER UNIT ASSY (See page 55–55)
HINT:
Refer to the instructions for removal of the instrument panel sub–assy lower.
2. REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE ASSY
(a) 1ZZ–FE, 3ZZ–FE Engine (See page 15–2)
(b) 1AZ–FE, 1AZ–FSE Engine (See page 15–7)
© 1CD–FTV Engine (See page 15–10)
3. REMOVE FRONT FLOOR HEAT INSULATOR NO.1 (GASOLINE ENGINE TYPE)
(a) Remove the 3 nuts and heat insulator No.1.
why would I need to remove the air con pump?
Do I have to remove the exhaust!
I have the 1cd-ftv engine.
Manual is attached. scroll to page 31,

MANUAL TRANSMISSION & TRANSAXLE.pdf

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I think that routing the new cables will be the most difficult, but if you use curtain rods, string or this: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/040910669

when removing the old cables, then to pull the new cables through the same route.

Dismantling part of the air-con sounds excessive. Like the Haynes manual, sometimes it is only one way is thought of. If access to routing the cable to the gearbox is the issue, then what I said at the beginning could be the solution.

I am sure somebody on the forum has done a work around.

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I don't have a problem disconnecting them at gearbox or at the gear stick its the routing as you say.

The aircon is on the offside of engine bay and the gearbox is on the nearside.

That link does not work.

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Try this link. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/040910669?da=1&TC=RV-040910669

If the link still does not work, Google Machine Mart and item: Clarke CHT669 12 piece cable rod set (£9.59). It is designed to pull cables through inaccessible areas.

Curtain rods taped to the cables will also work.

Also that extra dismantling is unnecessary. Years ago when changing a tailgate on a car, I had to use string when pulling the wiring loom out then back in. Same idea. What I did is tie a long string to the cables, the pull the cables out of the hole pulling the string through, but leaving a length to pull the string back. The string is untied then tied to the new cable, and pulling at the other end, the cable is pulled back through the hole. As I said string, curtain rod or cable puller should do the job and hopefully save the extra work.

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1. REMOVE AIR CONDITIONER UNIT ASSY (See page 55–55)

HINT:


The instruction above does not refer to the AC compressor it refers to the AC/heater box fitted behind the dash ( hence the instruction: "Refer to the instructions for removal of the instrument panel sub–assy lower." ) as the cables pass behind the AC/heater box before they pass out through the bulkhead, the exhaust needs to come off to allow the cables through the bulkhead on the outside of the car. #


This is one of the jobs my Technicians hate as it is an absolute nightmare being very awkward and difficult even when the car is all stripped out, thank fully it is a pretty rare issue.


Also trying to force the cables out or back in by pulling through without removing the components show in the manual is not possible as the fittings/ends of the cable are much larger than the actual cables and they have pass through gaps far smaller than the cable fittings/ends actually are.

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Thank you Konrad and Lee for the great advice. If you were closer I would bought you guys a drink! :cheers:

Looks like I will have to plan this one and have plenty of time-

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1. REMOVE AIR CONDITIONER UNIT ASSY (See page 55–55)
HINT:
The instruction above does not refer to the AC compressor it refers to the AC/heater box fitted behind the dash ( hence the instruction: "Refer to the instructions for removal of the instrument panel sub–assy lower." ) as the cables pass behind the AC/heater box before they pass out through the bulkhead, the exhaust needs to come off to allow the cables through the bulkhead on the outside of the car. #
This is one of the jobs my Technicians hate as it is an absolute nightmare being very awkward and difficult even when the car is all stripped out, thank fully it is a pretty rare issue.
Also trying to force the cables out or back in by pulling through without removing the components show in the manual is not possible as the fittings/ends of the cable are much larger than the actual cables and they have pass through gaps far smaller than the cable fittings/ends actually are.

Thank you Konrad and Lee for the great advice. If you were closer I would bought you guys a drink! :cheers:

Looks like I will have to plan this one and have plenty of time-

Lee, thanks for the heads up on why the extra components need removing. What a pain.

I the person who will need the drink is the person doing the work!

Good luck.

Konrad

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That will be me and my friend, hopefully it will get it done on Wednesday.

I have the corolla Haynes manual it covers the engine, There is no mention of removing extra components. Time will tell.

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@ Lee or anyone else. I cannot find this bit of the manual. can you help?

1. REMOVE AIR CONDITIONER UNIT ASSY (See page 55–55)
HINT:
Refer to the instructions for removal of the instrument panel sub–assy lower.
I cannot find page 55-55 in the manual- which heading is it under. I have heater and air conditioner part.

HEATER & AIR CONDITIONER.pdf

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This is one of the jobs my Technicians hate as it is an absolute nightmare being very awkward and difficult even when the car is all stripped out, thank fully it is a pretty rare issue.

you can say that again.

disconnecting from gear lever and gearbox are ok, to get them to nuts out in the middle my god what a nightmare

bottom lower of dashboard needs to removed- my car is in bits

I will have to get a picture for you guys.

I still have not removed the air con box/unit.

the fun part has not even started the re-assembly :(

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UPDATE- I got these in a few days ago, I did not have to touch the exhaust, I did not fully remove the air con unit, I dismantled it so much so it could be lifted up ever so slightly to get the two 10mm bolts at the bulkhead.

This is not a job I would look forward to to do again.

looking at my old linkages, the up and down linkage had stretched, and the side to side was a little stiff to pull.

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