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Front Brake Discs & Pads


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#1 System~G

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Posted 31 May 2004 - 09:53 PM

This applies for most modern cars.

Toyota Front Brake Disc/Pad Replacement
How-To - Part 1


The following is a step by step guide with photos describing the replacement of the discs and pads for most Toyota vehicles. There may be some slight variants and some differences in models, but the basic principle remains. Various problems can be encountered and a little technical savvy may be needed to overcome these obstacles. I have written this How-to based on my experiences with MR2’s and Corolla’s.

When replacing any brake components, the work must be done “per axle” i.e. both driver and passenger sides. If for instance the pads only need changing on the passenger side, then you will also need to do the pads on the drivers’ side.

Read this How-To thoroughly from beginning to end before attempting to undertake the work yourself. If you are not technically minded or do not have the confidence take you car (along with the parts) to a garage to get it done properly. Your car will not stop without any brakes or faulty brakes and can cause serious injury or even death.

Although the work is easy for many of us, you can not hold the club or me responsible for any incompetence or lack of technical ability on your part.
I reiterate; if in doubt, get a competent person to assist or oversee the work.

Parts Needed:
* Replacement Discs
* Replacement Pads
* Copper Grease
* Tie-Wraps / Cable Ties / Bailing-Wire
* Metholated Spirits
* WD40
* LocTite Blue
* Old Rags (to catch oil)
* Clean Rags
* Jack
* Axle Stand
* Wire Brush
* Ratchet / Ring Spanners
* G-Clamp
* 18mm block of wood

How-To:
1] Park vehicle on flat surface with handbrake on securely but left out of gear. Place anti-roll wedge (included in most Toyota tool kits) or brick behind the opposite rear tyre to avoid car rolling back. Loosen slightly (but do not remove) wheel nuts. Jack car up and place on Axle Stand. Do not leave the car on the jack!!! Remove the jack and place wheel under sill (outside up to avoid scratching the wheel). Continue to remove wheel.

2] Remove the calliper from the calliper bracket, by loosening and removing the two bolts shown.
Posted Image Be careful not to damage the rubber seals.

3] Suspend the calliper using cable-ties or bailing-wire from the suspension spring. Avoid putting strain on the brake hose.
Posted ImagePosted Image

4] Remove old pads from calliper bracket. Take note of the position of the tension springs, wear indicator clips and anti-squeal shims on the pad and remove. There is no need to remove any pins or clips from the bracket. Remove any rust and dust from the calliper with the wire brush. Do not inhale any dust. Clean the calliper and inside of the piston with metholated spirits.
Posted Image If replacing the Pad only - skip to step No.13

5] Remove the calliper bracket by loosening and removing the bolts shown below.
Posted Image

6] The disc now should be able to be pulled off easily. However, if no copper grease was used on previous installation, the disc may seem to be fixed to the hub. You can either use a special removal tool available for around £15 from Halfords or get a couple of bolts and screw them into the two threaded holes not taken up by the wheel nut threads. These holes go through the discs and when putting bolts through them, the bolts will push against the hub, pulling the disc free.
Posted Image

7] Clean off all rust and dust from the hub with the wire brush. Do not inhale any dust. Remove all traces of grease (copper or otherwise) from the hub with a cloth and the metholated spirits. Clean all the bolts with metholated spirits and apply a generous amount of WD40 to the two bolts that hold the bracket in place.
Posted ImagePosted Image

8] Apply a generous and even coating of copper grease to the hub. Try not get too much of the grease onto the wheel nut bolt threads.
Posted Image

9] Clean the new replacement disc with the metholated spirits to remove any production oils or packaging agents. Apply a thin and even coating of copper grease to the inside where the disc will meet the hub when in place.
Posted Image

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#2 System~G

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Posted 31 May 2004 - 09:57 PM

Toyota Front Brake Disc/Pad Replacement
How-To - Part 2


10] Fit the new disc to the hub and hold it in place with two of the wheel nuts.
Posted Image

11] Clean the calliper bracket using the wire brush and metholated spirits and apply some copper grease to the four areas where the bracket makes contact with the calliper and hub.
Posted Image

12] Replace the bracket by fitting over the new disc. Apply a small amount of the LocTite to the bolt threads and bolt the bracket in place.
Posted Image

13] Clean the new pads with metholated spirits and fit the old wear indicator clips (taking note of their original position) and apply a thin, even layer of copper grease on the back of the pad and refit the old anti squeal shims. (Note: Some cars will not have these shims. Do not worry, just put an even layer of copper grease on the back of the pad. My brakes did not have the shims - thus these photos do not show them.). Refit the pads into the bracket.
Posted ImagePosted Image

14] Clean the retaining springs with metholated spirits and re-fit them to the pads in the same way they were before they were removed from the old pads.
Posted ImagePosted Image

15] Clean the visible sides of the shims (or pads if shim not available) with metholated spirits and apply a thin, even layer of copper grease.
Posted Image

16] Take the clean calliper and note the position of the piston. It should still be raised.
Posted ImagePosted Image

#3 System~G

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Posted 31 May 2004 - 09:59 PM

Toyota Front Brake Disc/Pad Replacement
How-To - Part 3



17] Put the piece of 18mm wood on top of the piston and then tightening the G-Clamp push the piston back into the cylinder of the calliper. Make sure you place a dirty rag around your brake fluid reservoir BEFORE pushing the calliper into the cylinder as fluid is likely to overspill and will make a mess of your drive and engine bay... Doh!
Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

18] Replace the calliper by fitting it over the pads. Apply some copper grease to the two bolts and bolt calliper into original position in the bracket.
Posted Image

19] Clean off excess visible copper grease from shims / pads with a cloth (do not use metholated spirits).

20] Refit wheel

21] Jack the car up and remove axle stand

22] Drop car back down and tighten wheel nuts as you normally would and directed in manual.

23] Pump the brake pedal a couple of times.

24] Repeat procedure on opposite side and take the car for a very slow test drive. Avoid high speeds and sudden harsh braking.

25] Check your wheel nuts are still tight once you get back from your test drive

26] Stand back and admire your work.
Posted Image

27] If all is well drive car very carefully with no sharp braking for first 100 - 150 miles and let the pads and discs “Bed-In”. Failure to do this will cause discs to warp & possibly crack. The pads can break down too ultimately not stopping you, potentially causing death... NOTE: That during this “bedding-in” period the brakes may feel a little spongy and unresponsive. This is normal. Once you have completed 100 -200 miles you will notice the brakes to be much improved over the originals.

28] Check all wheel nuts and all other bolts are still tight after the “bedding-in” period.

#4 marksno1

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 02:28 PM

Toyota Front Brake Disc/Pad Replacement
How-To - Part 3



17] Put the piece of 18mm wood on top of the piston and then tightening the G-Clamp push the piston back into the cylinder of the calliper. Make sure you place a dirty rag around your brake fluid reservoir BEFORE pushing the calliper into the cylinder as fluid is likely to overspill and will make a mess of your drive and engine bay... Doh!
Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

18] Replace the calliper by fitting it over the pads. Apply some copper grease to the two bolts and bolt calliper into original position in the bracket.
Posted Image

19] Clean off excess visible copper grease from shims / pads with a cloth (do not use metholated spirits).

20] Refit wheel

21] Jack the car up and remove axle stand

22] Drop car back down and tighten wheel nuts as you normally would and directed in manual.

23] Pump the brake pedal a couple of times.

24] Repeat procedure on opposite side and take the car for a very slow test drive. Avoid high speeds and sudden harsh braking.

25] Check your wheel nuts are still tight once you get back from your test drive

26] Stand back and admire your work.
Posted Image

27] If all is well drive car very carefully with no sharp braking for first 100 - 150 miles and let the pads and discs “Bed-In”. Failure to do this will cause discs to warp & possibly crack. The pads can break down too ultimately not stopping you, potentially causing death... NOTE: That during this “bedding-in” period the brakes may feel a little spongy and unresponsive. This is normal. Once you have completed 100 -200 miles you will notice the brakes to be much improved over the originals.

28] Check all wheel nuts and all other bolts are still tight after the “bedding-in” period.



Hi,

Your instructions are spot on and i fitted my front disc in very little time thanks to you, but may i ask if you would have the instuctions for fitting the rear disc's as i need to replace these two, it would be most appreciated if you couyld help me with these instructions.

Kind Reagrds


Mark

#5 Burning Feet Man

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Posted 12 August 2007 - 10:50 AM

Hi there, thanks for an excellent tutorial. I must just ask, in step 13 you say to apply copper grease to the backs of the pads, this is the side that makes contact with the disc? i just needed to check this before i carry out the job. Thank you again for a great tutorial, you can never ever have too many photos!

#6 michael0708

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Posted 16 August 2007 - 12:59 PM

Hi there, thanks for an excellent tutorial. I must just ask, in step 13 you say to apply copper grease to the backs of the pads, this is the side that makes contact with the disc? i just needed to check this before i carry out the job. Thank you again for a great tutorial, you can never ever have too many photos!


no mate on the back of pads , not on the brake pad surface which gets in contact with disc

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