Correct Coolant For 2000 Avensis 7A-Fe

[AV3]

Hello

I have a 2000 Avensis 1.8 Auto 7A-FE. We have a small leak in the top housing of the radiator.

I intend to replace the hoses, clips and thermostat while I am fitting the new rad, so thought I would flush the system and fill with Red OAT.

The coolant I intended to use is the Triple QX from Euro car parts

Is there a known problem with using this type of coolant on the older Avensis?

Also, can anyone tell me where to find the engine block drain plug on this model? Haynes manual says there is one, the guy at Toyota does not agree.

Thanks for your time

Kind regards

[Konrad C]

No problems with your choice at all.

The engine drain block is below the exhaust manifold near the alternator, core plug and oil filter. I think it is a 14mm bolt.

Be careful when trying to get a socket/spanner to the plug bolt due to the location of the alternator. I blew the 100 amp fusible link!

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/139794-alternator-100-amp-fuse-1998-t22/

Disconnect the Battery earth as a precaution.

Spray WD40 at least 30 minutes before trying to loosen.

The plastic part of my radiator had cracked and I changed it last October.

It is a straight forward job.

[gazza1286]

The engine block drain bolt is soft. You must use a 6 point socket otherwise it will round.

[AV3]

Thanks for the reply Konrad

It looks like your rad failed in exactly the same way as mine has.

I will make sure to disconnect the Battery before I start work, and thanks for the location of the drain plug.

I was a bit concerned about using an OAT coolant as I could not find out what was originally specified by Toyo and the dealer was little to no help. I had read different reasons online for not using an OAT coolant in older cars, from it attacks the seals to it reacts with yellow metals.

Originally intended to use Toyo Pink, then the dealer changed their mind about suitability when I went to pick it up, even though I pressed them on the issue several times before driving down there.

Ended up walking away with the intent of getting a standard blue from Euro Car Parts and ended up picking up the red instead. Its only when I got home I realised my mistake.

So super happy to hear it wont be a problem.

Thanks again

[AV3]

Thanks for the reply Gazza

I did a quick search on the forum, someone suggested cranking the bolt while the engine was warm and then removing once cool.

Is this a legit option to avoid rounding the bolt?

Thanks for your time

[AV3]

So my rad turned up today, as I have an auto, the transmission fluid is routed through a cooler on the bottom of the rad.

The connections for the cooler pipes were not mounted to the rad, I guess for packaging purposes.

They have fluted ends and a nut that holds the flute in compression against the body of the rad.

No instructions were included in the packaging.

Do I need to use a jointing compound to ensure no leaks when I fit these to the rad?

Thanks again for your time and very helpful reply's.

Kind regards

[gazza1286]

I've never needed joint compound and wouldn't recommend it. The rubber hoses themselves are pliable enough. The original Toyota clips can be reused and are preferable to jubilee clips. They are best slid off using locking pliers. These need to be 're-set' whilst the clip is between the jaws so the the 'locked' position has the jaws almost touching eachother to provide enough clearance to fully release the clip. Do not remove the clip - leave it on the hose but further away from the junction.

Warming the engine up is not a bad idea - however the bolt itself will also expand with the heat. Best to use an extension and a breaker bar and apply firm steady leverage.

Good luck. Never fitted one to an automatic so can't advise in relation to the cooler.

[AV3]

Hi Gazza

Thanks for the advice. I will try it with a breaker bar before I start any other work just in case.

I purchased some new constant tension clamps for the transmission cooler hoses, but could not find the right size for the radiator.

I did not fancy paying what Toyo were asking for them, so got some Mikalor clamps for the rad hoses.

If I get leaks from expansion / contraction I will go back to using proper spring clips. I will be damned if I buy them from the main dealer though:) I will keep the old clips just in case.

The flared fitting I was on about needing jointing compound for was this.

Its where the copper cooler pipes have to be bolted onto the rad before I can slip the rubber hose over. I found a site that describes how to form the flare for plumbers and they say not to use any jointing compound, so that's one less thing to worry about.

I am not sure of the best way to disconnect the cooler hoses on the existing rad to minimise fluid loss, I haven't checked the garage yet to see if I have top up fluid.

I am bound to ***** something up along the way. Its just a question of when and how badly :)