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New Front & Rear Discs & Pads


snash1039
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I need a new sets of front and rear brake discs and pads changed on a 2006 plate. Should I get them from the Toyota dealership or local garages as they have quoted

me cheaper?...But most local ones use cheaper discs and pads so I don't won't to compromise on that.

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Non genuine parts are just as good and you'll have more choice of pad material, I normally use EBC rotors & pads as replacements for OEM.

EDIT: Ask the garage which make they intend to fit and come back to this post, I will soon tell you if they are any good.

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The disc the local dealer said the discs is ....padig .... and the pads textar

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Pagid seem to be okay, have friends who've used their stuff courtesy of Eurocarparts. Don't know anything about Textar.

Most Toyota franchises do a fixed-price replacement of brakes that isn't too pricey.

If you're worried about the parts tho', you can buy the OE parts from Toyota or get uprated parts from e.g. EBC, and just have the local garage fit them.

Whoever you get to do it tho', make sure they fit the discs dead flat or you'll get this annoying uneven brake wobble under light braking ('run out' they call it) until the discs wear in (And that will take !Removed! ages on a Prius!). The only other way to fix it is to have the brake disc skimmed on the hub and not that many places do that. (If you ask to have you discs skimmed, most places take them off which obviously doesn't help with the run-out problem!)

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As Cyker said both these makes of brake components are OK. Any mechanic worth his salt should know how to fit replacement rotors, so you shouldn't have a problem.

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Thanks guys for your input. I'll go with the toyota parts....and have a local mechanic to fix em.

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Don't you have to be careful doing the front brakes on a toyota hybrid due to the regen braking?

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No, they are just the same as normal brakes. In simple terms, the regen braking is caused by an electric motor being driven in reverse by the drive shafts which in turn causes resistance on the shafts, again causing the car to slow down, whilst generating power.

NOTE: On some cars when you pump out the caliper pistons for the first time after changing pads, a fault code is generated.

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Don't you have to be careful doing the front brakes on a toyota hybrid due to the regen braking?

You have to be aware that the hydraulic side of the brake system is live even when the car is off.

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NOTE: On some cars when you pump out the caliper pistons for the first time after changing pads, a fault code is generated.

That could be it.

I read a post or two a while back where the front brakes were changed by a non MrT garage and the dash lit up like a christmas tree when the prius was started. The mechanic then got the proper instructions from MrT and followed them, and all was OK.

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Don't you have to be careful doing the front brakes on a toyota hybrid due to the regen braking?

Despite what Ian has said I'm sure you're correct, and that something specific has to be done to deactivate the braking system before working on it to stop it from locking up or something? A fair few guide on youtube about it also.
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I won't argue the point, all I will say is if the vehicle is put into neutral and the key is kept well away from the car you can remove the pads, push back the pistons with no problem.

The problem that could happen is that a fault code can be generated when you pump the pistons back out by pressing the brake pedal.

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No fault code was generated on SWMBO's Gen2 when I changed the pads, I pumped the pistons back up before turning the car back on, using the hydraulic system.

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I won't argue the point, all I will say is if the vehicle is put into neutral and the key is kept well away from the car you can remove the pads, push back the pistons with no problem.

The problem that could happen is that a fault code can be generated when you pump the pistons back out by pressing the brake pedal.

You didn't mention anything originally about not having the key near the car though!

It does ring a bell now though that this is the process like you've now expanded on and mentioned.

Never knew about a fault code but others seem to think it's unlikely, and certainly shouldn't be difficult to reset if it does occur I wouldn't have thought?

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Gen2 doesn't have keyless entry/start.

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The ones I've seen do? In fact I nearly put a showroom model though a window playing in it with the keys having been left in the centre console (not knowing this at the time). I just hit the power button which killed it all again. I'm almost sure it was a gen2 as it didn't have the flying bridge in it from memory. How does it work in the gen2 then out of interest if not keyless?

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When I say keyless I mean, it doesn't automatically detect the keyfob when you approach or enter the car. It doesn't actually use a key to enter or start the car, you open the doors with the button on the fob and when you get in you insert the fob into a slot on the dash and press the start button. The point I was trying to make is that it doesn't matter where the fob is in relation to the car (as long as it isn't in the slot of course).

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I won't argue the point, all I will say is if the vehicle is put into neutral and the key is kept well away from the car you can remove the pads, push back the pistons with no problem.

The problem that could happen is that a fault code can be generated when you pump the pistons back out by pressing the brake pedal.

You didn't mention anything originally about not having the key near the car though!

I just assumed anyone doing repairs knows the correct way. 1, You never have the key within range, 2, Always put the vehicle in neutral especially if at least one wheel is off the ground, but I forgot all the DIYers out there without training.

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I won't argue the point, all I will say is if the vehicle is put into neutral and the key is kept well away from the car you can remove the pads, push back the pistons with no problem.

The problem that could happen is that a fault code can be generated when you pump the pistons back out by pressing the brake pedal.

You didn't mention anything originally about not having the key near the car though!

I just assumed anyone doing repairs knows the correct way. 1, You never have the key within range, 2, Always put the vehicle in neutral especially if at least one wheel is off the ground, but I forgot all the DIYers out there without training.

m

There is the correct way and then a vehicle specific way, which is obviously very much is with the Prius. Most other cars you don't have to worry about where the key is when changing brakes.

In addition to that you can't leave the car in neutral when off, it automatically goes into Park, looks like no one knows exactly what they're doing........

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