Dash Cam cable management - new Aygo

[MCR_Aygo]

Has anyone found a nice way to manage a dash cam wire neatly in the new shape Aygo?

In my old Aygo I had the cable coming under the glove"box". But because the new Aygo glovebox actually has a lid, I'm struggling to make it work. 

 

Would going ring the drivers side route be better? 

 

[eygo]

just an idea.

replace the courtesy lights with leds then use the interior light for the power supply,

replacing with leds will free up some power that can be used with the dash cam.

if this is possible the wiring is up the windscreen and behind the roof lining.

[Ethanedwards]

Easy as pie.  Suction cup the camera to the left of the mirror. Tuck the cable under the roof lining using the handle of a teaspoon to poke it under going towards the passenger side. Tuck under the side plastic A pillar panel until you reach the rubber door seal. The simply using the spoon lift the rubber trim tuck the cable underneath down to the floor. Under the plastic trim out over the carpet but under the mat so you won't see it. Then up the left of the tunnel and plug into the power outlet. Time to fit about four minutes. Specialist tools needed a teaspoon which remains undamaged. 

 

Done this many times on a Yaris.  Aygo Qashqai.  CRV and a Jazz.  Works for anything.

Hope that helps.

[Plob]

As long as the power lead for your Dashcam is long enough! Grrrrrr!!!!

Using the interior/courtesy light supply is a pretty smart hard wire solution, though that would leave you having to manually start and stop it rather than putting it on an ignition switched supply and forgetting about it?!

[eygo]

i dont have an aygo so i am not sure what cabling there is up there when i had my CT i fitted

an auto dimming rearview mirror and took the feed from the overhead light console as there was

an ignition live supply,

[MCR_Aygo]

20 hours ago, eygo said:

just an idea.

replace the courtesy lights with leds then use the interior light for the power supply,

replacing with leds will free up some power that can be used with the dash cam.

if this is possible the wiring is up the windscreen and behind the roof lining.

That's a really good idea but a bit complex for me :p

 

19 hours ago, Ethanedwards said:

Easy as pie.  Suction cup the camera to the left of the mirror. Tuck the cable under the roof lining using the handle of a teaspoon to poke it under going towards the passenger side. Tuck under the side plastic A pillar panel until you reach the rubber door seal. The simply using the spoon lift the rubber trim tuck the cable underneath down to the floor. Under the plastic trim out over the carpet but under the mat so you won't see it. Then up the left of the tunnel and plug into the power outlet. Time to fit about four minutes. Specialist tools needed a teaspoon which remains undamaged. 

 

Done this many times on a Yaris.  Aygo Qashqai.  CRV and a Jazz.  Works for anything.

Hope that helps.

After a second try using your recommended tool I managed to make this work :) 

I actually pulled back the carpet and have it under there, looks pretty neat so thanks!

[Ethanedwards]

Easy as pie.  Suction cup the camera to the left of the mirror. Tuck the cable under the roof lining using the handle of a teaspoon to poke it under going towards the passenger side. Tuck under the side plastic A pillar panel until you reach the rubber door seal. The simply using the spoon lift the rubber trim tuck the cable underneath down to the floor. Under the plastic trim out over the carpet but under the mat so you won't see it. Then up the left of the tunnel and plug into the power outlet. Time to fit about four minutes. Specialist tools needed a teaspoon which remains undamaged. 

 

Done this many times on a Yaris.  Aygo Qashqai.  CRV and a Jazz.  Works for anything.

Hope that helps.

[Ethanedwards]

Under the carpet eh? Sounds even better.  

[S_J_P]

I used the under-the-headlining technique, but after suffering impromptu cable drop-out on my previous Aygo, I removed the sun-visor and poked the cables behind the securing screws so that the cable can't flop down on my new model.

 

Also, be aware that there is an airbag in the A pillar, so poking a cable under isn't the wisest thing to do as it could interfere with the airbag operation. A better option is to (carefully) pry the A pillar trim away from the car, and then carefully secrete the cable behind the airbag so that should not deploy it won't be affected by the new cable.

 

If you're inclined to go the interior light route, then do remember that the lamp is 12v but the Dashcam is 5v (electronic to step-down the voltage are inside the plug) so you'll need to dismantle the plug and hide it in the roof lining too.

 

Out of interest, has anyone used one of the piggyback-fuse kits with the Aygo to power a Dashcam? I like the idea of the option of permanent or switched supplies which can't be easily overridden, and low-battery switch-off, but I'm not sure whether the inaccessible Aygo fuses would make this a bigger pain than using the accessory socket.

[Rocksy71]

Just fitted my cam using the behind the roof lining, behind the pillar and airbag, door rubber technique and just be clever slaved and additional 12v cigar lighter socket onto the factory fitted cigar socket power feed  using a couple of those crimp clips but hid the slave socket behind the glovebox and just plugged the cam in there leaving the factory fitted socket in the dash free for whatever temporary power feed may be required in the future.

[Plob]

wrt using the interior light supply, (the wiring for which is readily accessible through the opening for the light fitting), as I said before what I want is a neat, fit and forget, ignition switched system. Been wracking my brain for an easy way to do this for some time...

Guess what I spotted the other day?

My bluetooth phone connection! It's ignition switched, so there is an ignition switch supply right where i need it!

Just need to find a way to gain, (easy), access? What holds the roof lining in place at the front, is it just the A pillar trim, door rubbers and the sun visor screws? Anyone know if the bluetooth is hard wired or on connectors/plugs?

 

[AndyT557]

I used the S_J_P and Rocksy71 technique.

Remove A-Pillar trim as far as it will go, remove drivers side sun-visor, drop out the courtesy light for access and ran a hard-wire cable from the dash cam mount, under the roof lining  and down to the fuse box under the driver's side instrument panel.  I found the brake lights are on a permanent live circuit (Fuse No. 18) and used that.  I fitted a mini blade fuse piggy back (add a circuit) fuse holder which resulted in the fuse box cover not getting refitted but thats not a huge problem.  And a handy M6 machined screw securing existing earth terminals on the inside of the bodywork near to the fuse box which I used for the hard-wire cable negative connection via a M6 ring crimp terminal.

Whole job took about an hour and half.  Could've been quicker but I'm quite OCD with wiring connections.  Not soldered anything, I used male/female bullet connectors on the live feed only and have used heatshrink where necessary to improve not just the look of the wiring but to increase the longevity of the install.

Andy 

[Plob]

16 hours ago, AndyT557 said:

I used the S_J_P and Rocksy71 technique.

Remove A-Pillar trim as far as it will go, remove drivers side sun-visor, drop out the courtesy light for access and ran a hard-wire cable from the dash cam mount, under the roof lining  and down to the fuse box under the driver's side instrument panel.  I found the brake lights are on a permanent live circuit (Fuse No. 18) and used that.  I fitted a mini blade fuse piggy back (add a circuit) fuse holder which resulted in the fuse box cover not getting refitted but thats not a huge problem.  And a handy M6 machined screw securing existing earth terminals on the inside of the bodywork near to the fuse box which I used for the hard-wire cable negative connection via a M6 ring crimp terminal.

Whole job took about an hour and half.  Could've been quicker but I'm quite OCD with wiring connections.  Not soldered anything, I used male/female bullet connectors on the live feed only and have used heatshrink where necessary to improve not just the look of the wiring but to increase the longevity of the install.

Andy 

This is essentially what I ended up doing too, (the visible bluetooth unit is just a wired remote control).

So is yours permanently on then? Motion detection? Essential both a dash cam and parking monitor?

Aren't you worried a little about drain?

I think I just piggy backed the accessory fuse, 12v socket/radio!

[AndyT557]

On 09/09/2017 at 4:56 AM, Plob said:

This is essentially what I ended up doing too, (the visible Bluetooth unit is just a wired remote control).

So is yours permanently on then? Motion detection? Essential both a dash cam and parking monitor?

Aren't you worried a little about drain?

I think I just piggy backed the accessory fuse, 12v socket/radio!

So is yours permanently on then? Motion detection? Essential both a dash cam and parking monitor?  Yes, but only when I leave the dash cam in the car like in supermarket car parks etc. 'Parking' mode will record automatically 30 seconds of video, when physical movement of the vehicle is detected.  I take the dash cam out overnight.  Not sure if I'm up to trusting leaving it in permanently as it is a possible target for vehicle break-in and getting stolen.

Aren't you worried a little about drain? No, the car gets driven regularly so I doubt very much the power consumption of the dash cam would drain the Battery.  The hard-wire kit claims to have automatic detection of Battery voltage and low-voltage protection, low voltage will cut off the power supply to ensure the car can normally start ignition.  Not tested this out feature out though as yet.

[Plob]

And if you're not generally leaving the cam in its not going to cause drain.

I didn't know that about the hard write kits, (unless it's dependent on specification of individual kit)

Like I said, wanted mine to be fit and forget, got as cheap and discreet a camera as possible... But I totally get where you're coming from wrt removable tech on display, and I suppose it's less about the loss of the kit, (can i use at work can be picked up for a tenner these days), than the damage done getting at it...