Lumpy idle

[Andy_vvti]

Hi guys been browsing sight for a while now and thought id join up finally,currently just brought my first ever e12 1.6 Vvti 56plate rolla so far so good but one annoying thing is about the idle as I seem to recall its a common issue for them,once car gets to temperature idle drops down and there after any sort of electrics I use in the car idle hoovers up and down example lights or electric windows heaters radio and so on,so far iv cleaned out the throttle body and also the maf,also changed the plugs but still the car shakes bad on idle,much appreciated for any input what else to check thanks.

[RazzerRazor]

Tough one mate. How about the Battery? 

If you or a mate has a multi meter. With ignition off see what volts your getting. Should be a least 11 volts. Then start the car, with the alternator now on it should be over 12 volts. 13 or 14 even pending on Battery weather etc. Then, last thing with the motor running turn on every electrical thing you can. All lights, ac heater on full etc and read it again. 

Basically lower than 11 or 10 volts it could be the Battery on its way out. Or your alternator packing up. Hope this helps 

[oldcodger]

Would add to Craigs reply that you should run the engine at 2000 - 2500 rpm when checking the alternator and you should see 14.0 to 14.5v DC across the Battery terminals.

Measure with care as though only 12v the current the Battery stores can burn so easily.

Once warmed up, mine does hover around  650rpm and has never been the smoothest tickover, though never noticed switching anything on adversly affects it, though would think electrical extra load would increase the revs a little.

When you say 'hovers up and down'  what rev range do you mean ?

[Andy_vvti]

Thanks for the replys will have a look,it's more of the case when I use something in car everything blinks inside the car usually idles around 650 but when electrics are used idle drops down then heads up to 650 again,just out curiousity do the spark plugs need to be gapped on these engines?

thanks

 

[oldcodger]

Darn, forgot to look at mine when I was out this morning, think I was put off by this older guy in a Yeti, the was driving very slowly round and around the Mway car park as if he was lost, think he was looking for the way out, though from the look on his face the second time around, think he was  not well.

Cannot say I have ever noticed things  'blinking' so it kind of reinforces what Craig was saying, it could be Battery ( how old its it ,over 5 years ) or the alternator, but do check for more simple things like are the Battery terminals properly clean, and the main Battery negative lead to chassis connection sound ?  - you have to undo them to be certain.

That will give rise to the ECU having to re-learn when you next go out, very poor ilde for the first 20 mins .10 miles.

The spark plugs often come preset to the correct gap, but you should  always check before you fit.

[Andy_vvti]

ahh yes few more extra pointers to keep me busy,just recently brought the motor it's done low mileage engine bay looks like never been touched along with the battery all the screws and plastic covers unmarked just covered in dust,hopefully should be pretty simple fingers crossed will see how I get on,thanks for the pointers and will inform how I go by. 

[oldcodger]

How old is the Battery ?

It might just need a good charge or long run, or if you have not got a multimeter, most garages should do a proper Battery check for you.

Dusty engine, sorry not allowed in this forum, you will need to post a pic of your clean engine bay by the end of the week or risk loosing your forum membership.

 

 

 

 

 

[Andy_vvti]

Haha I'm a part time detailer my other classic vehicle is squeaky clean lol rollas time will also come,battery looks original only owned the rolla for a month,think it's only had minor service from the history usual filters and fluid don't think it's had gearbox fluid change since factory and it's on 71,000miles,I'd personally rather service the whole thing myself and change fluids but after reading up on which oils etc to use kinda puzzling,think my brain was focused so much on the classic motor it's got me puzzled on what fluids the rolla uses,

So transmission gl4 or gl5 75w90?

engine oil 5w30? Fully synthetic? Particular brand?

Thanks.

 

[oldcodger]

Will expect to see pictures looking better than mine then ... 

That pic was  back in 2011 a year after I got it s/h,  fitted with a Delphi Battery which soon expired,  your 13 years old ..  thats pushing it , probably replaced once ?

Fitted a Bosch S4 in 2012, been fine so far;  start up crank always strong

Gearbox oil, always used Commas SX 75W90 GL5 , 2ltrs needed.  change it twice now, no problems.

Engine, used Magnatec Full Synth  5W/30 for the last 6 years, but the price seems very high now, so on my last change ( 90k)  I used Comma XTech 5w30 full synth.

Always used Comma engine oils on my previous high mileage cas without problems, plus the Comma comes in 5lts, the Magnatec is in 4lts and for my model , well drained it needs 4.2 ltrs.  Still only uses about 500ml between 10k /1 yearly changes.

Don't forget the pollen filter behind the glove box, though they can be expensive,  bought  the cheap eBay ones as its non critical , seem virtually the same

Service wise very straight  forwards, but the brake silder pins can corrode / sieze,  so I always give them a yearly clean and lub.

 

[Andy_vvti]

Thanks mate much appreciated for input,will start ordering the stuff in and crack on weekend with it,

it's always handy when forums like these especially every little helps previous years done all mechanical work myself would rather learn abit more about the Corolla then pay garage prices plus it's a peace of mind doing the work urself,will crack on weekend and see how I get on 

cheers again.

[oldcodger]

You will have to post pics of your other car (?),  the Tsport guys are particularly into detailing.

Just keep the engine bay clean these days, still get plenty of raised eyebrows when the council mot testers open the bonnet  

[Andy_vvti]

Well managed to test the Battery,

12.9v ignition off

idle 14.4v

Idle all electrics lights heater etc on 13.3v 

didnt manage to rev engine as doing it myself as no throttle cable in bay

hmm seems about right? 

Serviced the whole car all oils filters full tank petrol checked with ob2 reader no faults,throttle cleaned,maf cleaned,battery terminals cleaned and earth points,stumbled with flickering lights when something is used and revs stil hunting,drove car for about 45min today first time as had Battery disconnected earlier before servicing.

[Andy_vvti]

Just out of curiosity how long does the Ecu take to re learn idle and once Battery disconnected,like mentioned earlier drove on and off for bout 45mins short little journeys.

thanks

[oldcodger]

Hi,

Well on mine its around 5 -10 miles say up to 30 mins of mixed driving.

Its most noticable when starting from cold and when you say stop at lights after a couple of minutes drivng, the revs  almost stop then spring back up to 1000 then waver up and down 200 - 1200, very un-nerving first time you expeirence it.

Rest of the rev range seems ok, but the more you drive the less it does that hunting , until it settles aroud 650 rpm.

The 'flickering lights" sound a puzzle - can you say what lights and when ?

 

You seem to have got a fair few problems, partic with what sounds like a bad syncro.

Was it sold as a  privare purchase or from a trader where you could return it as faulty ?

[Andy_vvti]

Well just drove it for about 30miles idle seems alot more steadier on 650rpm doesn't dip below it maybe it needed a good run god knows! All interior lights and headlight seems good when load is put on doesn't blink anymore(strange) as for synchro I already knew when I test drove it but to be fair I got the car at a really good price as it was owned by a older chap who looked as honest ever could be,was private sale can't really complain as getting box and clutch re done by mates rates so kinda lucky there,we shall see how I go by hopefully that should be a end to my problems with idle,touch wood

[oldcodger]

A diy clutch is possible, but a big job, though you are lucky that you have a mate who can do the gearbox for you.

Would be interested to know if  your mate gets the parts like syncro rings from Totoya or  do they make third party pattern parts,  and if  they are available as separate items  or have to use fuller  kits with all the syncros / wear items ?

[Andy_vvti]

well car will be going in first week of january so will report back on this thread regarding the parts that he uses or if any members need any info or getting hold of parts etc