Auris 1.6 Petrol Valvematic loses Power

[Konstantinos]

So frustrated that I am joing this topic lads but guess what? I have the same problem!HURAY!

P1047 & U0116. Last three months dashboard goes crazy. Once EMLight is on for long time and suddently for a day it's off. When it's on 90% of the times revs are almost getting there but mile meter stays low. When I am going up to little hill I am praying to make it and dont cause traffic. 89K miles on the clock , 3rd driver, services every 7K since I bought it (was 50K miles at that time) never had issue......and now I begging to reach work and home back again in 32 miles total ride. Monday I'll do a service (and obviously I am going for some serious bad news) things maybe that I need to mention 1. after 5k miles oil dropped down of the minimum limi,2. there might was a bad smell once in the cab coming from the engine.3. EML reseted by the garage lately and came back again after 20 miles,4.always waiting for the car first to warm up and then start to drive,5. soon as I put some oil in the car came alive again but EML swiched on later on,6.  lights on dashboard while swifting gears up and down are barely coming on. 

[furtula]

That oil consumption is normal in my opinion, mine goes through about 1L per 6k miles, kinda same, other 1.6 non Toyota car i had before it had the same.

Errors will come and go randomly. You can reset it by restarting the car, and might not come back until tomorrow.

I doubt topping up the oil has anything to do with it.

Valvematic issue is quite common on the model you have, sadly it's an expensive fix, and it's a straight part swap.

I don't know if the part itself can be fixed, i always wondered, but never saw anyone trying to do it.

[jason mccord]

Hi everyone

Just thought I'd post as I had the same issue, P1047 fault, loss of power.  It was the variable valve lifter, sits on the right hand side of the engine, at the top.  My vehicle is a 2011 auris 77000 miles but I just went ahead and got a breaker part which turned out to be off a verso.  My understanding is these units are all the same.  New they are £700-£800 and bay used are £250ish.  I paid £150 from local scrap yard, just took the chance and stayed away from the auris 2011 units as it seems these have a problem.  

There is a decent video on youtube of guys changing one, somewhere in eastern Europe maybe.  There are some parts of the video that are not clear, like when you need to turn the unit slightly in order to get a piece of wire under the pin to push it out and then release the unit.  It is fiddley in parts but I was able to do it myself.  I'm not too bad round cars, do my own servicing, brakes and that.  I did mine on a cold Sunday, took me most of the day but was stopped for long periods, waiting on tools I didn't realise I needed, like a torx socket.  I also lost the pin inside the top of the engine which induced major panic but I managed to fish it out.  It was difficult forcing the rod back onto the new unit so the pin lined up and I bent a few old chisels in the process but a crow bar sorted it.  

Anyway, changed it out and warning light went off, no need for a delete or reset and its been completely fine since.  I'm hoping it is the 2011 unit issue that a lot of people seem to have had and this will see me good for my time with the car. 

[rashad]

i’m having same valvematic control issues, dealers are quoting £1300, part number is 222AO-32025, but i’m having difficulty finding this part with same number, the ones i find are part number 222AO-37025

[furtula]

It's hard to find because a lot of people have the same issue, buy 2nd hand from wreckers, or a new one.

Sadly, it's a common isue on that year/engine.

Go to japan-parts.eu and enter your VIN, find the part, and you can see the correct part number. 

 

[avetoy]

On 2/13/2023 at 2:04 PM, rashad said:

dealers are quoting £1300

Very high price!  I recently ask  my local Mr. T and they said the price would be €1200 (£1070), including the work. That was still too much for me!

My solution was to buy an used engine and have the working actuator from it. That was way more cheaper than Mr. T and I have the rest of the engine for spare parts (or for sale).

Like Mr. Furtula wrote, it's hard to find because a lot of people have the same issue.  In my region many scrap yards are not even willing to sell the actuator separately.

I think the part numbers have changed because they have improved the actuators to last longer. I can't say for sure that the newer will fit, but I still think that all the valvematic actuators are mechanically the same. In my case at least the actuator made in 2011 is suitable for the engine made in 2009.

[rashad]

On 2/16/2023 at 8:30 AM, avetoy said:

Very high price!  I recently ask  my local Mr. T and they said the price would be €1200 (£1070), including the work. That was still too much for me!

My solution was to buy an used engine and have the working actuator from it. That was way more cheaper than Mr. T and I have the rest of the engine for spare parts (or for sale).

Like Mr. Furtula wrote, it's hard to find because a lot of people have the same issue.  In my region many scrap yards are not even willing to sell the actuator separately.

I think the part numbers have changed because they have improved the actuators to last longer. I can't say for sure that the newer will fit, but I still think that all the valvematic actuators are mechanically the same. In my case at least the actuator made in 2011 is suitable for the engine made in 2009.

thanks i’m now searching on line and local breakers for part, a few breakers told me that other part numbers will fit but have to swap the head/clip from my old part 

[avetoy]

7 hours ago, rashad said:

...have to swap the head/clip from my old part

I wonder what did they mean by head/clip... As far as I know the actuator is "plug´n´play"; at least in my car it was.

[furtula]

2 hours ago, avetoy said:

I wonder what did they mean by head/clip... As far as I know the actuator is "plug´n´play"; at least in my car it was.

He was advised actuators with other part number will fit, so not the same. Same part number is straight replacement.

By pictures, it looks like controller is a 2 piece  unit, so just electronic part bolted onto the mechanical one. I guess you remove the electronic part from other part number, and bolt it onto the mechanical part on your unit.

Hopefully the price for that other part is lower.

[avetoy]

55 minutes ago, furtula said:

...it looks like controller is a 2 piece  unit, so just electronic part bolted onto the mechanical one. I guess you remove the electronic part from other part number, and bolt it onto the mechanical part on your unit

Yes, the actuator is two-part, but to separate them is not just bolts off. Inside of the mechanical part is an electric motor whose wires (3 pieces) go inside the electronic part and they have been soldered. 

If you want to remove them correctly, you must take the plastic cap off from the electronic part (it is not easy without breaking the fastening clips) and then solder the wires off.

 

In this poor quality picture you can see the three copper wires...

 

[furtula]

It's nothing that hard to go. So it all comes down to how much the part cost.

At least they confirmed that it can be done.

You can buy a replacement engine for less than the price of the actuator, sad.

[Caprine]

Hi Guys,

I have just bougth a 2017 Toyota Corolla with 1.6 Valvematic engine 55k mi.

When I intensivly accelerating between 2000-3000 rpm (gears 2-3-4-5-6) I hear some strange noise coming from the engine. When it is over 3000rpm the noise disapearing. The noise is like what you hear on the plane when it is ascending. It is like grinding. I was at the Toyota dealer, they checked, and told me the noise is caused by airfilter house. They also said it is fixed but the truth is I still hear this noise. You might experienced similar noise.

Do you have any idea/eperience?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Renars]

??? What's this