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2013 Touring Sport Hybrid Excel, Real MPG?


martin68
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Im finding that my engine is on more than off in EV mode, but I have also noticed that on a fast road and going down hill, that the energy picture shows green arrows flowing to the Battery, but no red arrows, yet the green EV car symbol remains off during this event, does that mean that the petrol engine is idling or off?

Ive only driven my car for two days, but averaging around 45mpg by driving mainly on A and B roads, is this normal? 

What MPG are others getting with this version of Auris Hybrid?

All the hype advertises 72 mpg but i knew that wont be true in the real world, but i was hoping to get at least 55 to 60mpg or is that also too much to expect?

Should I drive with the ECO mode button on at all times?

My Peugeot 407 1.6 Deisel gave me 44mpg while it was advertised as 57mpg, so should this petrol Hybrid beat that?

 

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There are two different EV states, the first where the EV button is pressed will force the vehicle to run on Battery power but only for speeds up to about 20 mph, the second where the button is not pressed will allow speeds up to about 42 mph on Battery. In both situations if the accelerator is depressed beyond a certain point it will cause the engine to start (roughly where the 'C' in eco on the power guage is).

Whenever you take your foot off the accelerator fuel to the engine is shut off completely, as is common on most cars nowadays anyway, above 42 mph the EV light won't come on as the vehicle isn't running on Battery power.

You will find that as you get used to the car your MPG will improve as you adapt your driving style to get the most out of the hybrid system, try to stay out of the power band and once you reach your desired speed keep the needle in the middle of the eco-range where possible staying on battery power.

Mpg will vary from person to person depending on many factors, driving style being just one. Distance driven, speed, number of stop starts and whether the terrain is hilly or flat all have an impact which seems to be greater on a hybrid than a normal car. I average about 60 mpg but that's on mainly flat roads at less than 40 mph with a fully warm engine and after 80 miles driving, the first 20 or so miles only give me 45-50mpg.

Don't worry about the different driving modes, they only change the throttle response and have no effect on the economy of the engine.

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My cut off for EV is 50 MPH. As I go over an indicated 50 on the speedo, it'll disable full EV.

I find tyre pressures a big impact on MPG. 33 to 38 PSI will give me a good few extra MPG. 

No roof bars etc.

17" wheels aren't too good either.

And driving fast is the biggest factor. Stick to the indicated speed limit everywhere and you'll see a massive difference. Air resistance increases exponentially so the difference between 60 to 70 MPH is far greater than the difference between 50 to 60.

Finally, petrol hybrids can't magic energy out of nowhere. They don't charge from a separate power source, they only harvest energy from the brakes that would otherwise have been wasted to heat, and use an efficient ignition cycle which is normally not available without electric motors providing low-speed traction. So they increase the efficiency to just about equal or just over similar sized diesels. But obviously without the nasty emissions of diesels.

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On 5/4/2017 at 3:39 PM, KayG said:

 

Whenever you take your foot off the accelerator fuel to the engine is shut off completely, as is common on most cars nowadays anyway,

Do all non Hybrid petrol and deisel  cars really shut fuel off completely with your foot off the accelerator? I always thought they have about a 600 to1000 rev idle speed when started up and on a stand still, I'm aware that many stop the engines when stopping at traffic lights etc, but is the engine really not getting any fuel at all when crusing down hill with your foot off the accelerator?

Does this mean that on the Hybrid that when the EV light is off but the red arrow markers are not showing on the car diagram on the energy monitor that the engine is off and not turning, or is it turning?

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My real world average on a 2015 Auris Touring Sports was 47 mpg. This measured tank to tank. The car trip computer proved to be about 3mpg optimistic.

The car replaced an Octavia 1.6 tdi which was returning 49mpg on the same routes. I am now using a 1.6 petrol Zafira which does 39 mpg.

In my opinion the hybrids are better in stop start situations such as urban use. I think they are basically a more reliable, quieter and environmentally friendly option than a diesel. 

Be prepared to drive very slowly to get anywhere close to the claimed mpg, or even 55 to 60 mpg. Which is a shame as the car is a very nice drive cruising at motorway speeds.

 

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39 minutes ago, Classic Iron said:

 

Be prepared to drive very slowly to get anywhere close to the claimed mpg, or even 55 to 60 mpg. Which is a shame as the car is a very nice drive cruising at motorway speeds.

 

Not at all, I get average 55 MPG out of Hybrids, I have had several. My journey is 20 miles combined slow A road and 70 plus Motorway driving. It is mainly down to driving style getting good MPG, but that does not mean driving like Miss Daisy, use the pulse and glide method, it works!

Kingo :thumbsup:

 

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16 hours ago, martin68 said:

Do all non Hybrid petrol and deisel  cars really shut fuel off completely with your foot off the accelerator? I always thought they have about a 600 to1000 rev idle speed when started up and on a stand still, I'm aware that many stop the engines when stopping at traffic lights etc, but is the engine really not getting any fuel at all when crusing down hill with your foot off the accelerator?

Does this mean that on the Hybrid that when the EV light is off but the red arrow markers are not showing on the car diagram on the energy monitor that the engine is off and not turning, or is it turning?

Yes. On idle, a conventional car is using fuel to spin the engine to do nothing but keep it running. Stop-start obviously helps this but still wastes a bit stopping and starting. Hybrid obviously only starts the engine when required so you don't ever (apart from when warming the engine, topping up Battery etc) waste fuel when idling.

On all engines, when your foot is off the throttle, it shuts off the fuel to get the engine to slow down. If there was any fuel going in, the engine would want to keep turning. To slow the car down using the engine, it has to have no fuel so you're essentially using momentum to drive a big air compressor.

On the hybrid, when the EV light is off but you're decelerating, it's the same story. It will be turning the engine to decelerate but using no fuel. It's the same when using the B selector as this uses the engine to brake. When it has the EV light on the engine is not moving at all.

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6 hours ago, Parts-King said:

, use the pulse and glide method, it works!

Kingo :thumbsup:

 

what do you mean by pulse and glide method?

when i accelerate such as entering a motorway slip road, i put my foot down to gain speed, but as soon as the engine starts making that loud over revving noise i take my foot off briefly than back on again, and i find that the red lit power needle drops back down to the green area and the high revving is reduced, yet the car is still gaining speed. Is that the correct way to pick up speed? as ive seen some youtube clips where the driver simply keeps his foot to the floor at noisy high revs until he gets to the desired speed. 

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On 05/05/2017 at 6:58 PM, martin68 said:

Do all non Hybrid petrol and deisel  cars really shut fuel off completely with your foot off the accelerator? I always thought they have about a 600 to1000 rev idle speed when started up and on a stand still, I'm aware that many stop the engines when stopping at traffic lights etc, but is the engine really not getting any fuel at all when crusing down hill with your foot off the accelerator?

Does this mean that on the Hybrid that when the EV light is off but the red arrow markers are not showing on the car diagram on the energy monitor that the engine is off and not turning, or is it turning?

You could change the display to show your mpg over the course of your journey, minute by minute and the live view.

That might be better for judging how well you and the car are doing, you will see when the engine is spinning and not burning fuel.

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45 MPG sounds like you're driving like a F1 driver. :biggrin:

The single biggest change you can make is to keep it out of the Power (white) range during acceleration. It may be slower than you're used to, but rest assured you will get there!

It's interesting actually - I've found that while I may be slow to accelerate in the 40-60 MPH range on dual carriageways (most traffic except HGVs will pass me), I'm generally quicker 0-30 or so than most traffic (so pull away) then heading up to 70 MPH I usually keep with the traffic without trying.

If you really need to get past traffic, then you can either floor it all the way to the speed you want, or a better method is to take advantage of the torque at slower speeds, and accelerate hard up to about 40-50 MPH then lift off just enough to get it out of the power range (assuming you're on a dual-carriageway/motorway). This allows the car to speed up faster than the surrounding traffic, then get to speed without burning silly amounts of fuel. Most drivers won't try and keep up unless they are determined.

When it comes to slowing down, I start to slow earlier (generally just lift off earlier than you would normally) and let the car coast. From 60-70 MPH on dual-carriageways, this works out to be around 500-600 yards from the junction. At about 300 yards I brake hard enough to get almost max regen (so deep into the blue without using the mechanical brakes). I still often catch up the traffic that zoomed passed though, as they inevitably had to stop for other traffic, in which time I'm slowing behind them. If you pay good attention to the road, you can handle most situations without coming to a complete stop (you must do this carefully though, especially if another car is in front of you!). As always, it is a judgement call.

Hybrids are definitely more sensitive to driving style and road conditions than conventional cars (the reason is because conventional cars are so inefficient, it basically doesn't matter how you drive them, the fuel economy will be lousy).

Hybrids win because they use the electric motor full-time, with ICE (internal combustion engine) augmentation for when the electric motor is insufficient on its own.

You have to judge the situation - sometimes it is better to forego a bit of economy in order not to upset other drivers, but equally there are plenty of times you can be more sedate, saving fuel, and not hold up the traffic either.

In stop/go traffic, it pays to drive slow and keep it moving than to accelerate/stop. What really costs fuel is getting the car moving from a dead stop. I'll let a large gap form between me and the car ahead if it stop/accel to 20 MPH, then stop again) so I'll crawl along at 5-10 MPH to avoid the stopping period. I judge the speed so that I just reach the car ahead when they pull away.

You will definitely need to learn how to drive it - they are different to drive, but not radically so. You'll also find it more relaxing to drive after a while, too.

You should be able to get 60+ MPG out of it with care (the Auris Hybrid is slightly more efficient than the Yaris Hybrid that I have). Note this does not mean you have to treat it with kid gloves - just don't use hard acceleration, and use the terrain (this may mean decelerating slightly as you go up-hill, but you will re-gain speed going down-hill without having to accelerate very hard). You can pretty much drive normally and keep with traffic and still get great MPG!

I highly recommend the use of ECO MODE full time. Normal mode does make the accelerator more sensitive, but I am totally convinced it biases the power-train towards the ICE, too. On the Auris, there is a Power mode, which further biases the power-train towards the engine, and from what I have read, causes the engine to run much more frequently (I have no experience with it however to comment). Certainly on the Yaris, in addition to the more lively accelerator pedal, I am sure it biases towards the engine in Normal mode (instantaneous MPG is definitely lower = more fuel burn).

Avoid the use of the heater (it burns more fuel for heat - unless the Auris has an electric heater now???), and set the fan to the lowest setting you are comfortable with. If you want more air, instead of increasing the fan, first direct the airflow completely to the face vents as this increases air flow on its own. If you find that isn't enough, then increase the fan speed.

You can use AC full-time without this significantly impacting MPG as it is electric (again, keep the fan setting low, as when you increase the fan setting, it increases the power draw for the AC).

For cooling the car in summer, I find it best to crack all the windows open about 1 inch, set the blower to face vents, recirc OFF, and max fan. Start driving, and within a minute a two you will find the cabin is cooler. Once you start to feel it cool, close the windows and turn the fan down a few notches. This helps the AC. After another couple of minutes when you start to feel the air blow cooler, set recirc to ON. You can have a cool cabin within a few minutes. When it is the middle of the day and the cabin is very hot, it pays to open all the doors for a few minutes before starting.

In winter, you will notice a marked reduction in MPG vs. summer - this is normal. It's a combination of the engine running more frequently automatically to keep it in the operating range, and use of the heater to warm the cabin (best advice is set it as cool as you are comfortable with - on the Yaris I find this to be 19 C according to the climate control when OAT is freezing at night). You might find during the day that you can get away without the heater (my car has a glass roof and a smaller internal volume so I'm not sure how the Auris feels in the day time, but I know the sun has set purely on how the cabin feels - I can feel the temperature drop in a minute or so at dusk).

All of the above will help the fuel economy! It's incredible what a difference little things like this can make.

Enjoy!!

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8 minutes ago, YarisHybrid2016 said:

45 MPG sounds like you're driving like a F1 driver. :biggrin:

The single biggest change you can make is to keep it out of the Power (white) range during acceleration. It may be slower than you're used to, but rest assured you will get there!

It's interesting actually - I've found that while I may be slow to accelerate in the 40-60 MPH range on dual carriageways (most traffic except HGVs will pass me), I'm generally quicker 0-30 or so than most traffic (so pull away) then heading up to 70 MPH I usually keep with the traffic without trying.

When it comes to slowing down, I often lose drivers because I start to slow earlier (generally I just lift off earlier than you would normally) and let the car coast. From 60-70 MPH on dual-carriageways, this works out to be around 500-600 yards from the junction. I still often catch up the traffic that zoomed passed though, as they inevitably had to stop for other traffic, in which time I'm slowing behind them. If you pay good attention to the road, you can handle most situations without coming to a complete stop (you must do this carefully though!). As always, it is a judgement call.

Hybrids are definitely more sensitive to driving style and road conditions than conventional cars (the reason is because conventional cars are so inefficient, it basically doesn't matter how you drive them, the fuel economy will be lousy).

Hybrids win because they use the electric motor full-time, with ICE (internal combustion engine) augmentation for when the electric motor is insufficient on its own.

You have to judge the situation - sometimes it is better to forego a bit of economy in order not to upset other drivers, but equally there are plenty of times you can be more sedate, saving fuel, and not hold up the traffic either.

In stop/go traffic, it pays to drive slow and keep it moving than to accelerate/stop. What really costs fuel is getting the car moving from a dead stop. I'll let a large gap form between me and the car ahead if it stop/accel to 20 MPH, then stop again) so I'll crawl along at 5-10 MPH to avoid the stopping period. I judge the speed so that I just reach the car ahead when they pull away.

You will definitely need to learn how to drive it - they are different to drive, but not totally. You'll also find it more relaxing to drive after a while, too.

Enjoy!!

It sometimes feels nice to show the non believers the hybrids aren't slow :happy:

The junction of the motorway I was joining, was just before a big hill and that wouldn't help the mpg.

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It  certainly does! I don't like to do it (OK - I'm totally lying) but more than a couple of times I've left big Mercs, Jags and BMWs behind at the lights. :biggrin::biggrin:

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Next time i'll be going the A road and see if I can reach 80+ again, I went the motorway to avoid any chance of the anti fracking lot lying down in the road again lol 

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Some observations I've had driving a HSDs vs my D4D - When accelerating, the D4D is most efficient just below the turbo threshold, but you want to get to 4th/5th as soon as possible to abuse the low rpm torque. With the HSDs, it's better to hold the acceleration near the top of the Eco segment, but stay out of the Power segment as that seems to drink a crapload of fuel.

With braking, I try not to in my D4D and instead try to maintain momentum, so down-shifting and timing my movement so I can roll through start-stop traffic at low speed but without having to stop. With the HSD I find you're better off using light braking early and often when approaching traffic to regen as much energy as possible. Harsh/Sharp braking in a HSD is EXTREMELY wasteful as the system can only regen a limit amount of power per second. The longer you can draw that out, the more energy it can harvest. It also saves your brakes as only the regen brakes get used, and they don't wear out! :) The ICE of the HSD isn't especially efficient - It is the energy recovery abilities that boost the MPG to diesel-levels - so maximizing that is key.

YarisHybrid2016's tips about looking ahead and lifting off earlier when approaching traffic so you can time your arrival for when is starts moving again are right on the money, and not just for HSDs but for any car. Similarly, leaving a bigger gap in front when in traffic can save loads of fuel - While the moron in front of you is leaping ahead then braking over and over, you can just roll at a constant speed behind them, letting your buffer absorb their start-stop so you never have to touch the brakes!

Still, it is good to give it a good hoon now and then so you can blow out the cobwebs in the engine, and also strip the rust off the brakes! (This is the one problem with the high-regen braking technique; The friction brakes get so little use the discs tend to get quite rusty, so it's good to drive 'normally' sometimes to stop that happening!)


 

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So what about the B option (Break) on the selector stick (i would call it a gear stick in a manual car) should that be used sparingly or is it more efficient to use instead of the breaks while gradually slowing down, is it not so good at regen?

I understtand it should be used while declining steep hills, but i have used it just to reduce speed at  motorway slip roads, or should i just break the pedal gently instead?

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Ahh - that wouldn't help!

B mode is ENGINE BRAKING. It is the least efficient way to stop the car (alongside using the mechanical brakes).

The only time you need to use B mode is when descending a hill that is so steep, you need to also use the mechanical brakes just to hold the speed. If that's the case then B mode is useful. Of course, if it is a short descent, then you don't even need to use it then, either. The main thing is to avoid overheating the mechanical brakes on steep/long descents.

The biggest advantage of B mode for hill descent is that it will help slow the car by just pushing air around the cylinders like a big heat pump, in addition to regen braking. The noise this creates can be startling the first time you hear it (it depends if you can coax it to increase RPM - I managed it once and it was interesting to say the least). It sounds like a quiet version of the "jake brake" on trucks! Find a steep hill, get some speed (30-40 MPH) start braking, select B mode, then really brake. The RPM can come up and it is pretty loud!

It's very effective (more than you'd think!) and helps save the mechanical brakes.

B mode will also automatically operate in Drive if you're descending a long hill where braking is necessary, but not enough to require the mechanical brakes. When the HV Battery becomes full, then you will hear the engine start to rotate when regen braking finishes. I've never managed to get it to do this the couple of times I tried (I did get it so the HV Battery was nearly full - all green bars on the Battery synoptic).

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There has been some debate over that here, but the official line is that you only use it when going down long descents to save wearing out the friction brakes.

In B-mode the regen is cranked to max which is why some people think you get more regen out of it (Really you could get the same effect in any of the other modes by braking just hard enough to get full regen braking but not friction brakes).

B-mode is actually designed to waste momentum energy by sapping it from the car's forward motion and dumping it anywhere it can (The batteries, the ICE) as much as possible to reduce the need to use the friction brakes, so if you are trying to get high mpg's then it's not so useful. If you just want to slow the car down more (Like the way I use my AirCon button :laugh:) and don't really care about the small efficiency loss then it's fine to use it.
 

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17 hours ago, Anthony Poli said:

 I went the motorway to avoid any chance of the anti fracking lot lying down in the road again lol 

I'm less than 2 miles from them ! (Near the end of the m55). Greenpeace have joined in now.

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Sorry to disagree about one thing.                 If my readings are right :
In my D4D , the engine stopped injecting diesel when i stopped using the throttle. The engine will run at f.e. 2300 revs (decreasing) but no fuel is injected.
It doesn't do like that in my Auris HSD.

Example : I drive 60 mph on the highway and need to slow down while going on the exit.
When i don't push the throttle any more on my HSD Auris, i still see the car is using a bit of fuel and there is a minimal consumption to just keep the engine running. The EV light on top of the clocks stays off and the ultragauge will show revs for the ICE.

When i do the same while driving 20 mph, probably the EV light will go on, the engine will stop and i can see on my extra small computer (ultragauge) that the ICE is not consuming any petrol at all. The Ultragauge shows no revs for the ICE.

About the B gear :  Some people seem to think that it is also adviced in order to avoid the Battery from overcharging to use the B position on the select handle when descending for a rather long distance. Doing so, they want to avoid the engine to run at very high revs to blow away the extra energy once the Battery is 100 percent charged.
I also have no experience in this matter as there are no long descends in my area. Haven't taken the car abroad yet.

For the topic starter : a lot of things about MPG have been said already. Many things are important ... examples are if you start with warm engine or not, what kind of traffic you do, etc.
Know that you can force the car more or less to go to electric driving and i find this is one way to drive with good MPG's. To do so, lift the throttle completely under about 40 mph and then apply gas just enough so you will stay in the first half part of the Economy section on your left clock. You can see a small line in the middle of the word ECO. Once you go over that line , your petrol engine will start.
Same while using cruise control : if your engine is on but electric driving is possible, just use the throttle to speed up 2 mph, then lift the throttle completely. This will result in a switch to electric driving as long as your speed is ok and the condition of the road is ok too (no hills) + Battery charge is ok;    Further more, try to stay in the green area as much as you can and drive with common sense and in a pro-active way. Stop using the throttle if cars in front of you use their brakes or when a traffic light is going on red. Then read many many many things about hybrid cars and hypermiling and economical driving. That should work for you then...

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4 minutes ago, haelewyn said:

Sorry to disagree about one thing.                 If my readings are right :
In my D4D , the engine stopped injecting diesel when i stopped using the throttle. The engine will run at f.e. 2300 revs (decreasing) but no fuel is injected.
It doesn't do like that in my Auris HSD.

Example : I drive 60 mph on the highway and need to slow down while going on the exit.
When i don't push the throttle any more on my HSD Auris, i still see the car is using a bit of fuel and there is a minimal consumption to just keep the engine running. The EV light on top of the clocks stays off.

When i do the same while driving 20 mph, probably the EV light will go on, the engine will stop and i can see on my extra small computer (ultragauge) that the ICE is not consuming any petrol at all.

About the B gear :  Some people seem to think that it is also adviced in order to avoid the battery from overcharging to use the B position on the select handle when descending for a rather long distance. Doing so, they want to avoid the engine to run at very high revs to blow away the extra energy once the battery is 100 percent charged.
I also have no experience in this matter as there are no long descends in my area. Haven't taken the car abroad yet.

What mode are you normally driving in?

Both our hybrids are in always in ECO mode, that suits us fine. When the cars were new to us, I tried the other modes and didn't find any benefits.

My data from saturday, showed no fuel being used while i took my foot off the accelerator peddle  and then minimal fuel consumption when I was making sure my speed wasn't reducing too quickly. 70 down to 50mph as the traffic lights were going to change in my favour.

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You know when the engine isn't being fuelled because instantaneous MPG sits at 99.9. It can't do that in any other situation. I've seen it hover around 90-97 MPG quite often in certain situations, but that was because I was going over 48 MPH and it couldn't switch to EV mode with some power applied.

Anyone know of a good cheap head-moutable camera like you see some people using (not GoPro) for capturing driving perspective? Would be interesting to make a "Hybrid Driving Awareness" video showing some of the nuances.

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You could try a sunglasses camera from eBay.

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6 hours ago, Anthony Poli said:

What mode are you normally driving in?

I always drive in ECO mode, I must admit. The reason is that only ECO gives me easy to control throttle to stay in electric driving, so to keep the power needle in the right first half of the eco part.
I did try the power mode briefly to see that the engine will stay on more and longer. Also the acceleration is more like a rocket and only at that time I feel the car has +130 hp.  I guess that mode is nice to drive in but difficult to control the throttle for good MPG.
Will do some more testing on the consumption while idling. My impression is now that over 40 miles/hour the ICE is never shutting off and never seizing to inject fuel. If you are around 40 miles per hour and decreasing, the EV light will go on and the petrol engine shuts down completely.
Some other models (new Prius) are able to drive electric at higher speeds than this. It would be logical that a new Auris would do the same. No idea about the Yaris.

Will look into this theoretic thing as where some engines cut fuel while decreasing and others not. Will report back on this.

The readouts i was getting were always in Liter per 100 km as i am from Belgium. Our neighbours in Holland use the km per liter reading.
I was calculating to miles per gallon just to speak the same language and took the US miles per gallon. Maybe I should use the 'imperial' miles per gallon ? I don't know.

The readouts I am getting at about 70 miles per hour while decreasing speed is about 235 miles per gallon (being 0,92 liter per 100 km exactly on the screen, going up or down a bit depending on the speed). That is on my 'ultragauge'.
In my D4D 1,4D Corolla 2007 I was not using the ultragauge and was just reading the information given by the car's onboard computer, shown on the stereo screen. I suppose these readings were right too.

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1 hour ago, haelewyn said:

I always drive in ECO mode, I must admit. The reason is that only ECO gives me easy to control throttle to stay in electric driving, so to keep the power needle in the right first half of the eco part.
I did try the power mode briefly to see that the engine will stay on more and longer. Also the acceleration is more like a rocket and only at that time I feel the car has +130 hp.  I guess that mode is nice to drive in but difficult to control the throttle for good MPG.
Will do some more testing on the consumption while idling. My impression is now that over 40 miles/hour the ICE is never shutting off and never seizing to inject fuel. If you are around 40 miles per hour and decreasing, the EV light will go on and the petrol engine shuts down completely.
Some other models (new Prius) are able to drive electric at higher speeds than this. It would be logical that a new Auris would do the same. No idea about the Yaris.

Will look into this theoretic thing as where some engines cut fuel while decreasing and others not. Will report back on this.

The readouts i was getting were always in Liter per 100 km as i am from Belgium. Our neighbours in Holland use the km per liter reading.
I was calculating to miles per gallon just to speak the same language and took the US miles per gallon. Maybe I should use the 'imperial' miles per gallon ? I don't know.

The readouts I am getting at about 70 miles per hour while decreasing speed is about 235 miles per gallon (being 0,92 liter per 100 km exactly on the screen, going up or down a bit depending on the speed). That is on my 'ultragauge'.
In my D4D 1,4D Corolla 2007 I was not using the ultragauge and was just reading the information given by the car's onboard computer, shown on the stereo screen. I suppose these readings were right too.

I use the hybrid assistant or torque. for recording the data from my journeys. 

It is the distance from a full tank that I concentrate on, not so much each trip. As you have no control over the other traffic and the same journey but at different times gives different results.

Since I have stopped fighting the computer and let it decide what to use. I have noticed the engine might running more, but it takes smaller sips of fuel. Even with the cruise control on and going up to the top of the ECO on the dial for brief moments.

What I have recently been trying, is to set off from a standing start just on the electric until my speed is about 15 mph and then increase my speed quicker. As the electric motor is better at getting the car rolling than the ICE.

Hopefully when summer eventually arrives, I hope to achieve my target of  500+ miles on 36 litres.

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