Rav4 G1 1996 2 litre petrol Auto please help!!!!

[donna2492002]

Please help, I brought a 1996 Rav4 auto a year and half ago, all seemed perfect with less then 100,000 miles, 2 lady owners from new, imported from Japan. A while ago it's fuel light started to remain on regardless of fuel content. The fuel gauge is accurate so not a problem, but recently the car had developed a rattle when taking my foot off the accelerator or slowing down, there was also a big thump when going up through the gears. I changed the front and rear differential oil and noticed some play in the drive shaft. In the oil from the rear diff there was a small amount of metal shavings and the oil was brown but not terminal, in the front the oil was the same color but no shavings. I took the car for a drive to see if there was any change and I put it into pwr mode and drove it down a nice stretch of road when it started choking (no thump, no clunk, no mechanical noise) and then the engine cut out and is now refusing to start. I checked the spark plugs and they were very black and sooty so got some new ones and installed a new air filter, all fuses are fine in fuse box,. Due to repeated non starts the Battery went flat, Fuel pressure seems to be ok, after charging the Battery for a while it attempts to start but gave up at last hurdle and flattened the Battery again. Could the timing belt have jumped a notch and does this indicate a timing belt tension problem? Was running really well in normal, pwr and od mode before this weird cyclical rattle. Really need a quick and cheap fix as currently can't get to work. Many thanks in advance.

[IanML]

The engine does not have a timing belt - it has a chain. If the chain was broken, the engine would likely not even turn over.

The black plugs suggest an overrich mixture.  Try (after recharging the battery) starting with the accelerator floored.  This cuts off fuel injection and dries the plugs out.  Release the accelerator if it begins to "catch".  If that does not help, I doubt the prospect of a cheap and quick fix.  I would start by having the injectors tested.

The fuel level warning could be due to a stuck switch on the tank level transmitter.

The clonky gearshift might be improved by a change of the AT fluid (and filter, if applicable).

[IanML]

On 2nd thoughts, you could have a timing chain tensioner problem.  Those often lead to a worn chain, which, if left, could cause the chain to break.

[daveh_rav4]

Not sure if the 96 Rav4 engine is the same as my 98 Rav4... but mine has a cam belt. 

[donna2492002]

Hi thank you for your help, yeah this rav4 has a belt and looks extremely complicated and complex to get to. Now looking into the possibility of the fuel filter being clogged.

[IanML]

I must apologise. I saw 1996, but somehow became convinced it was 2006, which does have a chain.

[daveh_rav4]

NP, I do wish I had a chain though... then again, I sometimes can't believe I am running around in a twenty year old vehicle... these Rav4's just go on and on and on LOL   Purchased mine ten years a go (it was eight years old then), paid £3500 for it and only ever had to replace two front brake disks, pads and brake hoses (OK, + oil and filters).  Best car I ever had.... and loads of milage still left in it; and no, I don't miss all this electronic garnish (posh word for crap) that festunes modern cars  ^ :)

[IanML]

That's very encouraging.  Mine's only 12 years old, and I also paid £3,500.

If yours is 20 years old, and you've had it for 10, surely you must have changed the cam belt as well 

[donna2492002]

Hi sorry I've not been online, yeah I get what you mean with all the new electric I've also got a chevrolet kalos and it's electrics have given me problems I've not long pulled the fuse to the doors as they kept unlocking themselves. So far with the rav4 the spark plugs have been changed, air filter changed, and I took off the throttle body and gave it a good clean (was very black on inside), I tried getting to the petrol sensor but having problems getting the 8 screws out as they are very rusted, the car really wants to start but just won't find the revs. :-(

[daveh_rav4]

On 5/10/2017 at 8:12 AM, IanML said:

That's very encouraging.  Mine's only 12 years old, and I also paid £3,500.

If yours is 20 years old, and you've had it for 10, surely you must have changed the cam belt as well 

I purchased the Rav 4 ten years ago with fourty five thousand miles on the clock (full service history)... the cam belt according to the service history and sticker under the bonnet claims that the cam belt was changed at 43,000 miles.  I am led to beleive that these Toyota cam belts are good for 90,000 miles, although Toyota recomment 90,000 miles or eight years (hence the first belt change at time interval and service). 

Any opinions on weather I should change it now or wait out the 90,000 miles?

[alan333]

If Toyota recommend 8 years and yours is now 10, then it needs done. 

[IanML]

7 hours ago, alan333 said:

If Toyota recommend 8 years and yours is now 10, then it needs done. 

X2

[daveh_rav4]

Yup, that's what I was thinking... it's about a two hour job apparently, plus the price of a cam belt and possibly the water pump if you have it done at the same time.  However, I have heard that the 3SFE engine is a 'none interferance' engine (i.e. the valves cannot hit the pistons if the belt breaks), so at worst, it just means you need to get towed if the belt breaks.  I have also heard that some people have run these belts for 150,000 km and fifteen years or more before they break!

I shall make some enquirys with my local Toyota dealer regarding price.  I have heard that KwikFit are cheaper... but not sure I want to turn KwikFit fitters loose on my motor LOL

I used to be a mechanic in my youth (Rover, Ford, Vauxhall and Lotus) and changed cam belts many times on my old Ford XR2 (every 40,000 miles)... but I am in my seventies now and my mechanic'ing and kerb-side motor days are past... I would rather pay someone else to get there hands dirty these days. :)

[alan333]

4 hours ago, daveh_rav4 said:

I have heard that the 3SFE engine is a 'none interferance' engine (i.e. the valves cannot hit the pistons if the belt breaks), so at worst, it just means you need to get towed if the belt breaks.

In my experience, if I leave a job til later, it always comes back to bite me on the bum.  For example my belt would break on the snowiest day of the year when I'm on the way to an important funeral or something.  Personally, I'd spend the few hundred quid and get the job done if I was intending to keep the car for a while.