Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Toyota Mark X Zio Water Pump 3.5L 2GR-FE


nz_aj
 Share

Recommended Posts

Changing the waterpump on the Mark X Zio is similar to:

Lexus ES350 3.5L 2007~

2008 Toyota Sienna 

The main differences are due to layout and plumbing.

To make room in the Zio, the cooland resovior and upper engine mount are removed, then the bracket that holds the engine mount to the motor, then the thermostat housing.  Something that isn't obvious in the first video above but can be seen in the Sienna is that after releasing the two hoses from the water pump housing it then pulls off the steel pipe that disappears between the V.  The pipe seals with an o-ring.

Belt, tensioners and pump all removed as per videos, except I didn't need to remove the crank pulley (2 bottom water pump bolts removed with 1/4 ratchet with 10mm and 12mm sockets), there is no lower engine mount to remove or tensioner to power steering pump (Zio is electric power steer)

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Water pump bolt torques

  • Bolts A: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).- 12mm heads
  • Bolts B and C: 81 inch lbs. (9.1 Nm). - 10mm heads
  • Bolts C must be replaced with new bolts.- mine looked OK, I reused them
I used these torques and had no leaks.

2GR-FE water pump.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The belt is refitted as per below.

I used a gates belt. The belt size is 7PK1550

2gr-fe belt.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before refilling with coolant I also drained the remaining coolant from the two block drains and the radiator.

The block drains are best accessed from below.  I also accessed the radiator drain from below, as the Battery would have to be removed for my arms to fit from above.   The plastic underbody panel has to be removed from underneath anyway, to access the front block drain.

I drained the rear block drain first as it was the easiest to get to.  I used a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet.

I didn't get anything out of the front block drain.

The specs online for this motor said 6.7L of coolant.  I think it was closer to 7.5L.

I poured the coolant into the expansion tank and let it drain into the motor, with the air bleed between the cylinder banks (#3 in picture below) open (use deep reach socket).  The last couple of litres are pretty slow, I assume they're having to pass through the air bleed hole in the thermostat, or something similar.  The air bleed started to leak coolant just before it was full.  I opened the air bleed again soon after starting the motor and some more air escaped.  I also opened it again when the motor was hot, just to be sure.

2GR-FE_cooling_800.png

block drains.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share





×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership