Auris Mk2 Door Card Removal

[Gerg]

I was considering removing the door cards on my 2013 Auris.  The drivers door especially sounds tinny when closed, and some Dynamat might be a simple fix, not least as I have some in the garage.  This may well slightly quieten the car in use as well.

Has anyone any experience of removing these, particularly with regards to hidden fasteners, easily damaged wiring looms  etc. etc?

If anyone had a photo of the door with the card off, I would be delighted if they would share it!

Thanks.

[eygo]

unclip and remove the panel around the handle for opening the door ,

unclip and remove the cover off the door handle,

unclip, disconnect wiring plug and remove the window switch panel

check for any screws located behind the removed covers and unscrew

then carefully unclip the door panel around the edge and lift off panel.

[Gerg]

Thanks for that reply.

It was straightforward in the event:-

Gently wiggle/pull tweeter enclosure off the door - then disconnect.

Remove door grab handle - This can be done with just your fingers, I started in the middle and moved up and down, just twisting and lifting away from the door card. Note one clip (red) that is different and more easily damaged as it tucks under the door card, rather than being pushed in.

Remove 2 x Philips screws previously hidden by handle.

Gently lift circular cover/cap behind door handle and remove Philips screw.

Pull door card (I started at the bottom) away from door to 'pop' clips out (notice one clip is set further into door - more care needed here or could stress door plastic with possibility of leaving white stress marks? (Red circle in picture shows location).

Lift door card upwards to unhook from door frame.

Unhook door-handle and door-lock Bowden/control cables - this is very straightforward.

There is no need to remove the window switches or door arm rest.  The window switch connector will need to be disconnected after the door card is off. But it is stiff, and pressing the release tang is not quite enough to free it, as the locking barb does not clear its hole completely; a screw driver might be needed to release the barb fully, more difficult to do with just one free hand - second person may be useful here.

Look out for evidence of water leaking onto the door speaker, it seems to be a weakness.

[qettyz]

@Gerg did you take any photos where you put dynamat? I am doing same thing on my Auris mk2 tomorrow evening or sunday morning.

Thinking that should i remove original moisture barrier and replace it with dynamat or just put dynamat tape all over corners of it to secure original sealing and then put dynamat over everything. But, original barries is little bit over metal for example in lower parts and if i put dynamat over it, i am afraid that i make nice little bed for water there.

[furtula]

Should be helpfull

http://www.autocats.ws/manual/toyota/auris_corolla_zze-zr-nde-ade/rm04f0e/repair2/html/frame_rm0000011qf00mx.html

[Gerg]

Hi, some random thoughts on this (a lot of this you probably already know!):-

I would be mindful that, unless the weather is warm (above, say, 10 centigrade?), the plastic clips on the door card will be harder to remove, and anything plastic is much more likely to crack.  For the Dynamat to stick properly, really a good amount warmer than that.  I used a radiant heater to get the door warm.

The best 'effectiveness/cost' for a Dynamat application is about 25% coverage on sheet metal.  

This link is quite helpful:-    https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

A powerful hair dryer made the door membrane mastic go 'stringy', so the membrane could be peeled back, but it also made the plastic membrane go really soft as well. so tearing it is easier, watch out!  The mastic seems to be reusable but it isn't very effective in the first place, it comes apart some time after you have finished.  It may be worth thinking about having some more sealant, or at least knowing where you can get some, if you should need a little more.  Both my front doors had small water leaks above the door Speakers when I first looked, this was from the Toyota factory, extra mastic had to be added to cure these leaks.  I got access to the inside of the r/h door by peeling back the membrane at the top left and bottom right.  Obviously the opposite on the l/h door.

The dynamat doesn't have to look neat, as long as it is firmly attached, so it works and no water can get behind it.  Also, if you put loads of Dynamat on, will it make dent removal or door repairs difficult in the future?  Dynamat can be removed, but it sticks *very* well.

Don't forget that there is some anti-corrosion wax all along the bottom of the door cavity, so don't go near there. On my white car this was easily seen, maybe not on your one. This is just visible in the bottom of the first picture.  Also I didn't put Dynamat over any joins between door reinforcements etc, so as not to make a water trap.

I only put Dynamat on the inside of the outer door skin.  The weather wasn't very good (November), so I didn't have much time, I think putting Dynamat where you are suggesting is popular, but a lot more involved and time consuming, and perhaps a problem when it comes to refitting the door card?  On the non-metal bits there might be a better material or technique to use. 

These photos are of the l/h door I think, I probably put more on than I needed, but these were offcuts I already had.  Notice the small square of Toyota sound deadener in the second picture, it has a glass fibre backing, there are two of these in each door, one by the door lock and one by the speaker.  These pads and the mastic is almost certainly made by Sika.

HTH

[qettyz]

@gerg thanks for reply! I posted how it went to here 

P.S found same water hole as you from passenger door moisture barried to speaker.

[Packard]

This is really good, the auto cats links are now dead.

[solero]

Did it sort the tinny noise? 

[Gerg]

17 hours ago, solero said:

Did it sort the tinny noise? 

Yes, it did.

The car, whilst still too noisy, feels (so, sounds really!) a bit more robust.

 

[solero]

I noticed that the rubber seals behind the door handles can harden and make the doors resonate on closing. Adding rubber foam helped. tightening the door handle bolts will also help. Will try when i next take the door cards off.