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Can Someone Please Check My Maths.


daktari
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I`m making a camber gauge and need to know if i`ve got the degree measurements right. If someon could double check i`d be grateful. It`s years since i`ve had to do this. Just a bit rusty. :unsure:

Cambergauge2.jpg

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Not sure where you are getting your formule from, are you happy with that? I'm guessign this has something to do with Pies and r squared?

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Yeah. i`m sure the formula for finding a circuference is pi x twice the radius or Pi x Diameter. Then divide the answer of that by 360 to give the measurement of each degree. The pivot to pointer arrow needs to be the diameter of the wheel which is 44cm. Hope that makes sense. :unsure:

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i will take pie x 2 , with chips and a carton of peas.

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i will take pie x 2 , with chips and a carton of peas.

That`ll be mushy then. :P

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well as a quick check .. work out 90 degrees x 7.7mm .. and measure that on your wheel .. does it look about a quater?

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Camber is the 'lean' of the wheel from vertical yes, so you need to measure that angle.

A known vertical line from the top of the wheel, the side of the wheel and the ground form a right angle triangle. Quick bit of trig and you've got the unknown angle formed by the wheel and the vertical line, the wheel's camber.

Don't think you need any Pis, circumferences or anything like that ;) Oh and a wheel with 90 degree camber would be a bit odd :P

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I'm not telling him to set his camber to 90 .. just making sure that the 7.7 "looks" right ..

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Dude I used Circumf = Pi times Diameter which is

3.14181 x 44

= 138.16

device by 360 = .383 Up to you if that's mm or Cm or meters

information source attached

Example 1: The radius of a circle is 2 inches. What is the diameter?

Solution:

= 2 · (2 in)

= 4 in

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Example 2: The diameter of a circle is 3 centimeters. What is the circumference?

Solution:

= 3.14 · (3 cm)

= 9.42 cm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Example 3: The radius of a circle is 2 inches. What is the circumference?

Solution:

= 2 · (2 in)

= 4 in

= 3.14 · (4 in)

= 12.56 in

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Example 4: The circumference of a circle is 15.7 centimeters. What is the diameter?

Solution:

15.7 cm = 3.14 ·

15.7 cm ÷ 3.14 =

= 15.7 cm ÷ 3.14

= 5 cm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Summary: The number is the ratio of the circumference of a circle to the diameter. The value of is approximately 3.14159265358979323846...The diameter of a circle is twice the radius. Given the diameter or radius of a circle, we can find the circumference. We can also find the diameter (and radius) of a circle given the circumference. The formulas for diameter and circumference of a circle are listed below. We round to 3.14 in order to simplify our calculations.

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That'll measure the distance around the curved arc the outside edge of the wheel moves in as you adjust the camber. If your scale follows that arc, then it'll be fine.

If your scale is a straight line then you're effectively doing the small angle approximation for tangent. Doesn't matter at the sort of angles you'll be using for camber though. I just find it easier to work with the trig method, but maybe that's just me ;)

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Yes, dak it looks right. :thumbsup:

Not sure what everyone else is waffling about though. :P

There you go you have MikeB's assurances. Super!

Waffle waffle I'lle have mine with Syrup please

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Cheers guys.. :thumbsup: All roads seem to lead to rome tho. I`ll get on with that tomorrow. Just a quick look at the specsheet shows that the 185`s camber should be 0.17 deg +/- 0.75 front and 0.75 deg +/- 0.75 rear. So perhaps i shoud just get my spirit level out and set them all to 0 At the moment i`ve got way too much negative camber on the fronts. Great for going round corners. ;)

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Generally, more negative camber gives more mechanical grip, but at the limit the tyres tend to 'break away' more sharply. This makes the car have more cornering traction but it needs more skill to drive it on the limit.

Less negative camber gives slightly less traction, but beyond the limit things tend to break away more progressively.

Ultimately for a road car you usually want the tyre face to be perpendicular to the road (most surface contact), when the tyre in question is the outside wheel loaded up in the corner. So when sitting stationary, a little negative camber is required in order for the tyre to be at 0 degrees when the slop in the bearings and give in the tyre side wall is taken into account under cornering.

Front and rear camber need not necessarily be the same as the front is also affected by caster when the wheels are not straight. I don't know how 4wd affects camber requirements, but I would aim to be slightly negative, say -.5 to -1 degree based on the figures you've quoted. Remember also that the manufacturer's figures become less meaningful when you start changing things (i.e. wheel/tyre sizes, lowering - which also affects the roll centre).

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Generally, more negative camber gives more mechanical grip, but at the limit the tyres tend to 'break away' more sharply. This makes the car have more cornering traction but it needs more skill to drive it on the limit.

Less negative camber gives slightly less traction, but beyond the limit things tend to break away more progressively.

Ultimately for a road car you usually want the tyre face to be perpendicular to the road (most surface contact), when the tyre in question is the outside wheel loaded up in the corner. So when sitting stationary, a little negative camber is required in order for the tyre to be at 0 degrees when the slop in the bearings and give in the tyre side wall is taken into account under cornering.

Front and rear camber need not necessarily be the same as the front is also affected by caster when the wheels are not straight. I don't know how 4wd affects camber requirements, but I would aim to be slightly negative, say -.5 to -1 degree based on the figures you've quoted. Remember also that the manufacturer's figures become less meaningful when you start changing things (i.e. wheel/tyre sizes, lowering - which also affects the roll centre).

Yup. :yes: I`d pretty well decided on - .5 degree front and -1 degree rear as a starting point. I think the Mk1 bum in seat method will determine future adjustments. As you say any modification from the manufacturers original mean it`s really going to be trial and error to a degree. And keeping it conservative should mean not too many errors. :thumbsup:

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