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First Diy Service Advice Please


KevT3
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Hello all!

As my corolla always do short journeys in the city, I have decided to change the engine oil and oil filter after 4500 miles (I bought the car at 21000 and now 25XXX) . It is still under warantee (5 more months remaining).

I am planning to buy the Mobil 1 0W40 engine oil and gonna buy the filter from the dealer. My question is that:

1) is Mobil 1 0W40 any good? Would that affect my warantee?

2) How do I take the filter out? I have read the repair manual and it requires something called SST to remove the oil filter? Has anyone got any photo of where the oil filter is underneath the car? Do I need anything else apart from a normal filter wrench??

3) Do I need to purchase the engine oil drain plug gasket as well?

4) How much roughly is the engine oil filter and the drain plug gasket?

Many thx

Kevin

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1. Yes I'd say Mobil 1 was the best,

2. Not sure where the filter is on the 1.6 but on the 1.8 and every other toyota I've seen with FWD, the filter is located towards the bottom of the engine block on the driver side. Go down to Halfords and get an oil filter wrench and that will take it off. Be warned though make sure its a smaller size, if you can get a decent one:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-FACOM-Fast-Actio...1QQcmdZViewItem

most of the time you can take it out by hand but its just in case its tight.

3. The drain plug gasket is merely a washer, about 20p, I would get one but its not absolutely necessary, you *may* be able to use the old one.

4. £10ish max for toyota parts I'd say.

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1. Yes I'd say Mobil 1 was the best,

2. Not sure where the filter is on the 1.6 but on the 1.8 and every other toyota I've seen with FWD, the filter is located towards the bottom of the engine block on the driver side. Go down to halfords and get an oil filter wrench and that will take it off. Be warned though make sure its a smaller size, if you can get a decent one:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-FACOM-Fast-Actio...1QQcmdZViewItem

most of the time you can take it out by hand but its just in case its tight.

3. The drain plug gasket is merely a washer, about 20p, I would get one but its not absolutely necessary, you *may* be able to use the old one.

4. £10ish max for toyota parts I'd say.

Cheers mate !! :thumbsup:

Would you recommend me to flush the engine with engine flush oil before add the Mobil 1? Because the oil at the moment is semi synthetic

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not necessary yet, if the oil is nice and hot most of it will drain out anyway. The flushing is there to remove deposits as opposed to getting rid of your oil. You could try it and it certainly isn't going to do any harm. I also doubt it would clog your oil pump as you've only done 25k

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if the oil is nice and hot most of it will drain out anyway.

Just a word of caution, watch out if oil is hot as I burnt my self once whist taking sump bolt out with hot oil. Not too clever!!!

As for replacing the washer shouldn’t really be any need, I have never done so on any of the cars I have owned as long as you don't over tighten the bolt too much shouldn’t get damaged.

If you get really stuck with the oil filter as I did once on pug 306, something I did once was ram a large screwdriver through it and turn it with that, as it coming off any way so don’t mater if it gets damaged in the process.

On elast thing remember to put a little oil the on rubber seal of the new oil filter when you screw it on (I normally dip my finger in the oil then wipe around the rubber seal)

Regards

Phil.

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As for replacing the washer shouldn’t really be any need, I have never done so on any of the cars I have owned as long as you don't over tighten the bolt too much shouldn’t get damaged

Have to Disagree with that one - you should always replace the drain plug washer as they do compress and can split if used again - replace it and you have peace of mind that the job has been done right.

:thumbsup:

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just got an oil filter for my car and it cost my £8.23 from toyota. mine is a 1.4 but i think they will be the same price

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just got an oil filter for my car and it cost my £8.23 from toyota. mine is a 1.4 but i think they will be the same price

Thx ! Bought it, it's £8.23

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Yes it will effect your warrenty when you do it your self you have no warrenty left

When you have only 5 months i say , the hell with the warrenty and do it your self its saves you a lott of money

my Rolla gets his 30.000km service from my self i go and buy the parts by my dealer and i get 20% discount :thumbsup: my rolla is now 15 months old

Oh yeah when you put the oildrean plug back with a new gasket , pul the Oildipstick out and clean her with an old cloth and let the dipstick out when you fill the engine up with the new oil when you are ready put the dipstick back and check it its possible that he gives on that there is TO MUCH oil in the engine BUT youre OILFILTER is empty start the engine let it run for a minute orso than shut it down clean the dipstick and check it again :thumbsup:

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Yes it will effect your warrenty when you do it your self you have no warrenty left

When you have only 5 months i say , the hell with the warrenty and do it your self its saves you a lott of money

my Rolla gets his 30.000km service from my self i go and buy the parts by my dealer and i get 20% discount :thumbsup: my rolla is now 15 months old

Oh yeah when you put the oildrean plug back with a new gasket , pul the Oildipstick out and clean her with an old cloth and let the dipstick out when you fill the engine up with the new oil when you are ready put the dipstick back and check it its possible that he gives on that there is TO MUCH oil in the engine BUT youre OILFILTER is empty start the engine let it run for a minute orso than shut it down clean the dipstick and check it again :thumbsup:

One more question, I am going to flush my engine using wynn's engine flush, it says on the instruction that, I should get the engine to the operating temperature, pour the oil in keep it idle for 15 mins and drain it while it's still warm...

My question is... how long does it take for the oil to get warm and not too hot.?? I don't want to burn myself ...

Kev

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Don,t flush the engine thats maybe only nessasary with OLD engines

And its best when your engine is HOT including the Oil

Drive about 6 or more miles , get the car on the handbrake put the jack under the car on the driversside jack him up put an oilcatcher ( old can or something like that) under the oildrainplug , get the oilfillercap on the upperside off and than unscrew the plug on the bottom .

than with your hand unscrew the plug and when its out PULL back and clean the oilplug with a old cloth stabb the old gasket from the Oilcarter with a screwdriver .

Put the new gasket on the cleaned oilplug . let the jack down so that the car is standing on 4 wheels again let it dripp for about 5 till 10 min.

Jack the car up again pleace the Cleaned oilplug back ang tighten it .

Fill the engine with oil again with the Dippstick out

the rest i tould you already :yes:

I,am going to service my friends Bora on Monday and on Wensday my uncle,s 1.3 yaris

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Kev,

Another small bit of advice i'd give you is that when you're nearing the point at which the drain plug will come out, i.e. the last couple of turns on the thread, put some upward pressure on the plug to mitigate against the oil trickling down the plug (and then down you're forearm). This way, the oil only starts to flow out when your drain plug is totally free of the sump, rather than streaming down your arm for the last couple of turns.

Another little tip is to clean any oil from the plug and around the filter when you're finished so that you know these surfaces are dry. so if after a period of time you notice oil in these areas then this must have leaked out after the oil change. If you had left the old oil residue, you've no way of knowing whether the car has sprung a leak or whether its just spilled oil from the oil change process.

Best of luck, enjoy it - its a magic feeling letting her rip after a service knowing its your own work and you've saved a packet!

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Clean the mating face of the engine block with a clean rag and make sure the "O" Ring from the old filter is not stuck to the mating face. Lube the "O" Ring on the new filter with a bit of fresh oil and screw it on untill it seats on the engine block - then give it a further 3rd of a turn by hand - thats all in needs.

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And thit you changed the oil and oilfilter and drainpluggasket today ???

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Thx people!!! I have sucessfully changed the oil and oil filter today!!! :) Don't know if it's only me, but it feels a lot better with the full synthetic oil. It can get to high rev a lot faster than it could?

I have learnt another lesson this time. You know the drain bolt is facing the rear of the car, i know the bolt should be turned anti clockwise to unscrew, but since it's facing the opposite, I tried sooooooooooooo hard and a long time trying to turn the other way... :wacko:

Finally discovered it and should easy to unscrew by turning the other way..., damn it....

I hope i didn't screw up the bolt... :(

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And thit you changed the oil and oilfilter and drainpluggasket today ???

Hey G6-R,

could you tell me how to take out the air filter please? I can see two clips on the right hand side, which are easy to move, but left hand side has the pipe and some wire attached... how do i remove it? I just want to hover the air filter...

Cheers,

Kevin

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Hey G6-R,

could you tell me how to take out the air filter please? I can see two clips on the right hand side, which are easy to move, but left hand side has the pipe and some wire attached... how do i remove it? I just want to hover the air filter...

Cheers,

Kevin

you need a pair of water pump pliers to squeeze the tabs of the hose, then once you've squeezed it you'll be able to remove the hose from the airbox. the two wires are the airflow sensor.

sanj

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Hey G6-R,

could you tell me how to take out the air filter please? I can see two clips on the right hand side, which are easy to move, but left hand side has the pipe and some wire attached... how do i remove it? I just want to hover the air filter...

Cheers,

Kevin

you need a pair of water pump pliers to squeeze the tabs of the hose, then once you've squeezed it you'll be able to remove the hose from the airbox. the two wires are the airflow sensor.

sanj

Thx Sanj

So, I don't need to worry about the sensor?

It seems to be attached to the plastic cover of the air filter

Kev

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Hey G6-R,

could you tell me how to take out the air filter please? I can see two clips on the right hand side, which are easy to move, but left hand side has the pipe and some wire attached... how do i remove it? I just want to hover the air filter...

Cheers,

Kevin

you need a pair of water pump pliers to squeeze the tabs of the hose, then once you've squeezed it you'll be able to remove the hose from the airbox. the two wires are the airflow sensor.

sanj

Thx Sanj

So, I don't need to worry about the sensor?

It seems to be attached to the plastic cover of the air filter

Kev

Also, where are the "tabs" that i need to squeeze?

Kev

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the tabs are on a metal ring that goes around the hose very close to the aribox. the best way i can think of describing it is like a spring loaded watch strap. pushing the tabs releases the tension.

the sensor just unplugs, i would suggest you unplug it then take the hose off. nine times out of ten you can just leave it on as there is enough slack in the wire.

sanj

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the tabs are on a metal ring that goes around the hose very close to the aribox. the best way i can think of describing it is like a spring loaded watch strap. pushing the tabs releases the tension.

the sensor just unplugs, i would suggest you unplug it then take the hose off. nine times out of ten you can just leave it on as there is enough slack in the wire.

sanj

thx mate! :thumbsup:

could i not just unscrew the screw on the metal strap to release it?

Kev

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Loosen the two clips and than pull it a little bit upwards than pull and the top wil come off than hold it and take the old airfilter out and put the New one in push the top back and than close the 2 clips

;)

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