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Yaris Wont Start Today


stikki
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After a very wet and windy night, my Yaris wouldn't start this morning. She spluttered at first and then there was nothing, although the engine seems to be turning over OK.

I was wondering if it was the HT leads?

I didn't have time to investigate myself, as I had to get to work quick, but wondered if anyone else had had problems like this. If it's something simple then I'd like to fix it rather than call someone out.

In the old days I'd have gone through the following process:

Remove a plug and make sure it's sparking - if not:

spray everything with WD40, check there's power at the coil etc, points are OK

Otherwise check it smells of petrol.

you can see my problem. I haven't had a car for 15 years, and they've changed a bit since my last one. Couldn't even see the HT LEads when I popped the bonnet.

Mikki

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After a very wet and windy night, my Yaris wouldn't start this morning. She spluttered at first and then there was nothing, although the engine seems to be turning over OK.

I was wondering if it was the HT leads?

I didn't have time to investigate myself, as I had to get to work quick, but wondered if anyone else had had problems like this. If it's something simple then I'd like to fix it rather than call someone out.

In the old days I'd have gone through the following process:

Remove a plug and make sure it's sparking - if not:

spray everything with WD40, check there's power at the coil etc, points are OK

Otherwise check it smells of petrol.

you can see my problem. I haven't had a car for 15 years, and they've changed a bit since my last one. Couldn't even see the HT LEads when I popped the bonnet.

Mikki

Other cars I have owned have a fuel cut off device and if , say, the boot or bonnet was shut vigorously it could be activated and cut the supply (not saying its the answer) but you could have done this.

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Mikki,

For your info, the Yaris has a Direct Ignition Sustem (DIS), which has one ignition coil per spark plug, so there are no HT leads.

I would check if it's the Battery playing up. Get a volt meter and see the voltage reading. And buy a bottle of distilled water/ De-ionised water if requiring to top up.

Also check that the connection at the Battery and the ground is secure and free from corrosion.

Hope it helps! :thumbsup:

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Turn your lights on first, then try starting the engine. If the lights dim, then it's Battery playing up. If they're fine and it keeps turning, then have a listen to see if the fuel pump activates (it's in the tank under the backseat) but it makes a little buzz... should come on when ignition is at ACC position. If it doesn't then it's either the pump itself thats faulty, or there might be some moisture on the wire/connection.

If that's all ok, then check all the Battery terminals and ignition wires and earthing terminals in the engine bay, if they're all ok then take the engine cover off (2 bolts at front, 2 at back 10mm) and you'll see the ignition leads to the spark plugs. Disconnect these, check the plugs are sat right, then re-connect and try again. If this doesn't work, then disconnect the Battery for 10mins, re-connect and try again (re-sets the ECU) If this doesn't work then take the cover off the air-filter and give the filter a quick clean (shake it outside, hoover it if it's filthy) and try again. If still no joy, then the MAF sensor may need a clean (it's on top of the airbox pipe, just pull it out and spray it with some compressed air or contact cleaner - NOT WD40) then re-assemble and try again. If no joy this time, then it could be something a lot more serious, for example; Crankshaft sensor, Valve timing incorrect, camshaft drive (major failure) low ylinder compression etc... all this needs checking by a decent mechanic.

Hope this helps.

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