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Xenon Headlight Bulbs


andytran
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Thanks for the answer, short simple and sweet. All points covered ^^

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to the above in the future yes but its not going to be any time soon!!also if you fit the kit so no one can see the ballasts and the wiring is all neat and youve went for an oe or close to oe colour and alighned right your car will never fail.......

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I'm getting a 55W 5000k H11, so its very close to the OEM 4300k 35w I think?, and my car came with a projector which means there won't be a problem adjusting the height and aligned it corectly.

As for the ballast, I really have NO idea where am i going to mount it...any tips? location where its easily accessable and no need to remove bumpers etc??? zip ties? or even double sided tape? I just hope it can hadle some heat under the bonnet~

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to the above in the future yes but its not going to be any time soon!!also if you fit the kit so no one can see the ballasts and the wiring is all neat and youve went for an oe or close to oe colour and alighned right your car will never fail.......

According to the VOSA they hope to introduce the new rules this November.

No doubt the examiners wil get wise to all the attempts to conceal they are fitted.

See page 9 in the link below.

http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/repository/MoT%20-%20Issue%2050%20-%20May%202011.pdf

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mate as said im a tester and have been for years this dates thing has been going on for years and its never amounted to anything...im not saying it will never come in but acording to the people i know who work at vosa they dont know how to bring it in to test

also you cant remove parts so even though i can tell due to the light if i cant see the ballast etc then i cant fail it.....

also the page in question is the page ive been seeing for a long long time..

also key master the hids burn cooler and the ballasts dont get hot either....

if you can take your bumper off then you could hide it better but im sure theirs enough room under the head light...

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There are two or three simple tests for detecting HID bulbs but VOSA don't seem to know what to do - no surprises there then. :eek:

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also key master the hids burn cooler and the ballasts dont get hot either....

if you can take your bumper off then you could hide it better but im sure theirs enough room under the head light...

Ah haha thanks again...but now the problem is, How do i remove the whole headlight of Auris? Do I need to remove the bumper in order to remove it?

My friend has a Ford Focus ST and all he did was remove 2 or 3 screw/bolt and just slide the headlight out without removing the bumper etc and put the ballast under the headlight

Thanks

Key

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  • 1 year later...

Hi all I just installed some Xid Kit too on my Auris. I chose 4300K and they are great but have some questions:

I installed the left ballast on the top of the plastic tank connected to the radiator using double sided tape and zip ties.

I installed the right ballast on the top of the black plastic fuse box using only double sided tape and some electrical tape.

1) Do the ballasts ever get hot enough to melt the plastic tank/box/ zip ties?

2) I don't feel the right ballast is secure enough, you think it's a good idea to screw the ballast in place (the screw will go through the fuse box a bit)

3) My kit is the one where 2 metal bits are simply inserted into the original Toyota plug (where the original lamps plugged into). I just pushed the metal bits in and then tried to secure them as best as I could with electrical tape. Is there any trick to really secure them in place so they don't come out?

Thanks

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I got some cheap chinese make and ive had them in for almost 5 months now i think, not had any heating issues with them, although eletric tape doesnt sound like its going to hold them in place.

i've mounted mine with cable/zip ties under the metal frame which the cover sits on (the one you remove first to get to the headlights), nicely tucks away hidden.

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"the one you remove first to get to the headlights), nicely tucks away hidden."

err, I don't actually remove anything, I had plenty of space for the right headlight and for the left I just removed part of the air pipe..

could you post a pic?

thanks

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He meant the front black piece of plastic...

2010-Toyota-Auris-engine.jpg

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keymaster, yes, you need to remove the bumper first in order to get the front lamp out...

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guys my car doesn't have this front plastic bit. It's a 2007 1.4 petrol model.

like I said, I had plenty of space to remove the original bulb and install the new one without removing anything (except the upper part of the inlet air pipe).

Could you answer about the ballasts getting too hot?

I drove for 20 minutes or so and they are warm/hot but not too hot to touch. I wonder what would happen in the summer though (30c in cyprus even at night time around july/august) and after extensive night driving..

I bought this kit from hids-direct on ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H11-SLIM-35w-XENON-HID-CONVERSION-KIT-ALL-COLOURS-/370429317011?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

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Sounds like someone stole or lost it somewhere... But you can still live without it, don't worry. Now you just cannot hide your ballasts under it lol :D

Hids-direct is good, nice guys there selling good quality products. I don't know if the ballasts will get hot or not, but I suggest you to install your ballasts properly anyway. Double sided tape will not hold them properly, so don't use it. Forget about the electrical tape. Do it properly ONCE, so you won't need to worry about it later anymore :)

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about the plastic part nobody stole it, I bought the car from the toyota dealership in Cyprus brand new, it never had this plastic part in the first place, I'm sure of this. Maybe the 1st gen auris petrol engines never had it. I'm curious now, do any of you with 1st gen petrol engines have it?

even though Hids-direct said the ballasts will not get so hot to melt anything and even though I found on some websites info that the tank and fuse box are ideal places (as they are high so won't get wet and far enough out of place in case the ballasts come loose and they get air) I'll try to find some better place to fix them, on the metal frame somewhere and using the metal bits that came in the kit, cable ties will probably fail at some point in the future.

Did anyone use an H11 male extension connector (instaed of the metal spades plugging in original harness and then electrical tape over the lot?)

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Yes I have 1st gen (2007) Auris with 1.6 petrol, and I have the plastic cover!

I believe that zip ties can be enough for install, mine have lasted very well.

I have just plugged the pins into connector and secured them a bit, but I am planning to make an upgrade and install proper connectors. For example like these.

$T2eC16hHJIkE9qU3l3veBQCSFZ07Mw~~60_57.J

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Neither my 2009 1.33 Auris nor my 2012 1.33 Auris has the swathe of plastic between the bonnet catch and the engine cover. Both cars bought from new from a Toyota dealer. It is all quite open. No plastic over the Battery either. One can change the low beam headlight bulbs fairly easily - the only thing that gets disturbed is the bulb holder.

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1.4 petrol Auris doesn't have that front plastic cover, indeed...

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Speed chaser those are the ones I want to buy too, the idea is the spades go in on one side (but do they lock in place? it's not clear from the picture) and securely connect with the original cable on the other side.

As far as the mystery of the plastic bit, I assume they don't put it on lower capacity petrol engines as they don't make a lot of noise??? and they don't need it?

BTW I removed the ballasts today from the plastic parts, I cable tied them on the side of the front metal bar, tomorrow I might also screw one hardened drill-screw on each ballast just to be extra safe, there is nothing on the other side of the metal bar where I put them...

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Don't actually know, but they should lock in place if you think about it. Otherwise the whole thing wouldn't make any sense.

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I finalized my installation today. Ballasts are now on metal surface, attached with 3 cable ties each and with 1 drill/screw each.

Here are the pics.

Only thing left is prob the proper H11 connector..

post-125827-0-89759600-1362817018_thumb.

post-125827-0-20309000-1362817024_thumb.

post-125827-0-74681700-1362817027_thumb.

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That is very good place for them if it's ok that they are not completely hidden. Please post back when you'll fit the connectors, it will be very useful to know which ones you chose.

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The connectors I linked to before should really work. I found a DIY made by a guy who's using such connectors. Looks right to me:

IMG_5335.JPGIMG_5359.JPG

IMG_5377.JPG

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Lol that's a good idea, now does anyone know what these connectors are called or has anyone found them on eBay????

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