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Robbo0046

2000 Celica Overheating

19 posts in this topic

Hi everyone, im looking for a bit of help!!!!! Hers the prob. My 2000 celica has started to overheat. I have flushed the cooling system and refilled it but still it overheats. I have checked the thermostat and its fine. The rad dose have a very small leak bsut not enough to cause the full rad to emty in 10 min. I just had a test done on the head and its fine as well. I have put rad weld in the cooling system so i flushed the rad with a high presher hose(i disconnected the two rad hoses from the engine) and I done the same with the heater pipes as there is no hot air being blowen inside the car. But when I run the engine, it dosent seem to be taking any water from the water bottle. There is no blockage in the rad so im out of ideas. Thats where you guys come in. ANY IDEAS???????????? :unsure:

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Hi everyone, im looking for a bit of help!!!!! Hers the prob. My 2000 celica has started to overheat. I have flushed the cooling system and refilled it but still it overheats. I have checked the thermostat and its fine. The rad dose have a very small leak bsut not enough to cause the full rad to emty in 10 min. I just had a test done on the head and its fine as well. I have put rad weld in the cooling system so i flushed the rad with a high presher hose(i disconnected the two rad hoses from the engine) and I done the same with the heater pipes as there is no hot air being blowen inside the car. But when I run the engine, it dosent seem to be taking any water from the water bottle. There is no blockage in the rad so im out of ideas. Thats where you guys come in. ANY IDEAS???????????? :unsure:

Water pump?

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Hi everyone, im looking for a bit of help!!!!! Hers the prob. My 2000 celica has started to overheat. I have flushed the cooling system and refilled it but still it overheats. I have checked the thermostat and its fine. The rad dose have a very small leak bsut not enough to cause the full rad to emty in 10 min. I just had a test done on the head and its fine as well. I have put rad weld in the cooling system so i flushed the rad with a high presher hose(i disconnected the two rad hoses from the engine) and I done the same with the heater pipes as there is no hot air being blowen inside the car. But when I run the engine, it dosent seem to be taking any water from the water bottle. There is no blockage in the rad so im out of ideas. Thats where you guys come in. ANY IDEAS???????????? :unsure:

Water pump?

I thought bout that but how do you test the pump? and do you know is it doable at home or do I need a garage to do it?

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Was it taking water from the bottle before you used Rad weld ? That stuff is a bit risky and could have gunked up the pump.

Is the pump turning with the drive belt ?

If you download the celica workshop manual and go to page 222 it tells you how to remove and inspect the water pump. Looks simple enought but look like you need a specalist tool (I.e the SST)!

Download Manual

Hope this is of some help.

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Was it taking water from the bottle before you used Rad weld ? That stuff is a bit risky and could have gunked up the pump.

Is the pump turning with the drive belt ?

If you download the celica workshop manual (its on here somewhere) and go to page 222 it tells you how to remove and inspect the water pump. Looks simple enought but look like you need a specalist tool (I.e the SST)!

Hope this is of some help.

The drive belt is turning the pump. Everyone has said that bout that rad weld, wish I knew that before lol. as for was it turning befor the overheating, I dont know :-( Il look into that workshop manual.

Thanks alot mate.

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Was it taking water from the bottle before you used Rad weld ? That stuff is a bit risky and could have gunked up the pump.

Is the pump turning with the drive belt ?

If you download the celica workshop manual (its on here somewhere) and go to page 222 it tells you how to remove and inspect the water pump. Looks simple enought but look like you need a specalist tool (I.e the SST)!

Hope this is of some help.

The drive belt is turning the pump. Everyone has said that bout that rad weld, wish I knew that before lol. as for was it turning befor the overheating, I dont know :-( Il look into that workshop manual.

Thanks alot mate.

Im starting to think that the thermostat might be faulty. When I checked it the big end of it did open up but only bout 5mm. But reading the manual it says that the other end , the valve lift should lift about 10mm as well which did not happen on mine. Im I getting confused or is the thermostat broke??????????????????????????????????

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If the bottom end is not moving at all then it must be damaged.

Its that end that allows the coolent to flow, hence the manual tells you check that end for movement.

As you can see from the manual pic, the top end should be connected to the bottom end. sounds like yours must have cracked in half.

Replacing it sounds like a logical place to start.

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If the bottom end is not moving at all then it must be damaged.

Its that end that allows the coolent to flow, hence the manual tells you check that end for movement.

As you can see from the manual pic, the top end should be connected to the bottom end. sounds like yours must have cracked in half.

Replacing it sounds like a logical place to start.

Thanks alot mate think iv just saved ££££££££££. i was going to take it into the stealers but im sure its the thermostat. I just checked it again and its defo not moving. Got one on order so fingers crossed!!! lol :yahoo:

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Was it taking water from the bottle before you used Rad weld ? That stuff is a bit risky and could have gunked up the pump.

Is the pump turning with the drive belt ?

If you download the celica workshop manual (its on here somewhere) and go to page 222 it tells you how to remove and inspect the water pump. Looks simple enought but look like you need a specalist tool (I.e the SST)!

Hope this is of some help.

The drive belt is turning the pump. Everyone has said that bout that rad weld, wish I knew that before lol. as for was it turning befor the overheating, I dont know :-( Il look into that workshop manual.

Thanks alot mate.

Im starting to think that the thermostat might be faulty. When I checked it the big end of it did open up but only bout 5mm. But reading the manual it says that the other end , the valve lift should lift about 10mm as well which did not happen on mine. Im I getting confused or is the thermostat broke??????????????????????????????????

Ah, sounds like you had a similar problem to me. Defo needs changing, that should sort it right out.

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mate i had a similar proble, it was the thermostat, got a new one put it but it still over heated, so now my car runs without a thermostat and its fine, no problems. my cousin works for the RAC and his older brother has his own garage and both are full qualified in mechanics, both have said the car is fine without the thermostat, all it means is that its will take an extra minute or 2 to warm up

good luck

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mate i had a similar proble, it was the thermostat, got a new one put it but it still over heated, so now my car runs without a thermostat and its fine, no problems. my cousin works for the RAC and his older brother has his own garage and both are full qualified in mechanics, both have said the car is fine without the thermostat, all it means is that its will take an extra minute or 2 to warm up

good luck

Problem with that is there is no way to regulate the engine temperature. The engine needs to operate at an optimum temperature, removing the thermostate will increase engine wear as it will take longer to warm up. You may also find that the engine temperature drops during sustained motorway driving. Not good.

I spose it don't matter if you don't care bout such things ;)

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mate i had a similar proble, it was the thermostat, got a new one put it but it still over heated, so now my car runs without a thermostat and its fine, no problems. my cousin works for the RAC and his older brother has his own garage and both are full qualified in mechanics, both have said the car is fine without the thermostat, all it means is that its will take an extra minute or 2 to warm up

good luck

Problem with that is there is no way to regulate the engine temperature. The engine needs to operate at an optimum temperature, removing the thermostate will increase engine wear as it will take longer to warm up. You may also find that the engine temperature drops during sustained motorway driving. Not good.

I spose it don't matter if you don't care bout such things ;)

Well got new thermostat and its still overheating so I took it out all together and still its overheating :( dose that mean its the water pump??????

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mate i had a similar proble, it was the thermostat, got a new one put it but it still over heated, so now my car runs without a thermostat and its fine, no problems. my cousin works for the RAC and his older brother has his own garage and both are full qualified in mechanics, both have said the car is fine without the thermostat, all it means is that its will take an extra minute or 2 to warm up

good luck

Problem with that is there is no way to regulate the engine temperature. The engine needs to operate at an optimum temperature, removing the thermostate will increase engine wear as it will take longer to warm up. You may also find that the engine temperature drops during sustained motorway driving. Not good.

I spose it don't matter if you don't care bout such things ;)

Well got new thermostat and its still overheating so I took it out all together and still its overheating :( dose that mean its the water pump??????

Can you get hot air when you turn the heating on once car is warm? Or does it overheat before you get hot air? This could be an idication but i'm not a pro.

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mate i had a similar proble, it was the thermostat, got a new one put it but it still over heated, so now my car runs without a thermostat and its fine, no problems. my cousin works for the RAC and his older brother has his own garage and both are full qualified in mechanics, both have said the car is fine without the thermostat, all it means is that its will take an extra minute or 2 to warm up

good luck

Problem with that is there is no way to regulate the engine temperature. The engine needs to operate at an optimum temperature, removing the thermostate will increase engine wear as it will take longer to warm up. You may also find that the engine temperature drops during sustained motorway driving. Not good.

I spose it don't matter if you don't care bout such things ;)

Well got new thermostat and its still overheating so I took it out all together and still its overheating :( dose that mean its the water pump??????

Can you get hot air when you turn the heating on once car is warm? Or does it overheat before you get hot air? This could be an idication but i'm not a pro.

Yep thats right. No hot air. Should water not be coming out of the wee hose coming from the engine to the filling bottle when the engine is on if the pump is alright? Im getting no hot air and no water coming from the wee hose. What do use think?And could the rad to be blame as well?

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Hi mate, sorry the thermostat did not fix it but it needed replacing anyway. I think it was the thermostat that was originally causing the problem and buy adding Rad weld you have blocked something. You should be getting a flow from that hose as it the return line.

I think the next step is to remove your pump and inspect it. Just had a look on my car and it doesn't look too bad a job. If its in good condition it means you might have a blockage somewhere. With the pump and thermostat out you could try blowing air through the system, first from that return hose and check to see if you feel air coming out of where the pump and thermostat live. If you do then you know the engine coolant channels are clear. Next blow air from the top of the radiator and see if you get air coming out of the other end. This might turn up something.

I'm not sure if there is anything else in the system that could be causing it.

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hi mate

Have you tried bleeding the system as per intructions on the underneath of the bonnet,regarding the water pump there is nothing to them,very easy to remove,and refit,once removed spin it with your hands,should be nice and quiet and confirm all the fins are still in place.there is nothing much that can go wrong with them.but i would try bleeding the system first as you are only getting cold air through,its does sound like trapped air.

good luck

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Hi mate, sorry the thermostat did not fix it but it needed replacing anyway. I think it was the thermostat that was originally causing the problem and buy adding Rad weld you have blocked something. You should be getting a flow from that hose as it the return line.

I think the next step is to remove your pump and inspect it. Just had a look on my car and it doesn't look too bad a job. If its in good condition it means you might have a blockage somewhere. With the pump and thermostat out you could try blowing air through the system, first from that return hose and check to see if you feel air coming out of where the pump and thermostat live. If you do then you know the engine coolant channels are clear. Next blow air from the top of the radiator and see if you get air coming out of the other end. This might turn up something.

I'm not sure if there is anything else in the system that could be causing it.

I dont have access to compressed air but i did spry water through the rad from top hose through to the bottom with no probs and the same with the heater hoses and everything was ok. Would it be ok to spry water throgh the engine to see if it would come all the way through. As for taking off the pump, i dont think i could get that drive belt back on!! lol would a blockage not show up on the test to check the head gasket?

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hi mate

Have you tried bleeding the system as per intructions on the underneath of the bonnet,regarding the water pump there is nothing to them,very easy to remove,and refit,once removed spin it with your hands,should be nice and quiet and confirm all the fins are still in place.there is nothing much that can go wrong with them.but i would try bleeding the system first as you are only getting cold air through,its does sound like trapped air.

good luck

I have kind of followd them i took the bottom rad hose off to drain the water then fileed it back up, let it run untill the fans kick in then put the caps on and rev it on and off for 15 min. is that what your talking about? However when I went to do it again, no water came out the hose but there is still water in the bottle? any ideas?

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It should not be a problem spraying water through it as long as you give it a good flush with coolant later. As for the coolant leak test it would not show a blocked coolant channel. All that test does is pump pressure in to the coolant system and if the pressure drops it indicates you have a leak. If the coolant channels are blocked the pressure will not disapate so it would pass the test no prob. As for bleeding the system properly go to page 220 of the manual you downloaded, item 2. You have to disconncet a few hoses and elevate the resivoir .

If you don't have any luck soon i would take it to a garage as repeatedly over heating your engine every time you test it is going to warp your head and cause a world of pain.

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