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4.2 D4d Scv Valve Replacement


RupertRAV4
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i have much the same problems with 2004 rav4 d4d loosing power cleaned the egr valve checked all the pipe work and the valve on top of the turbo. the vacuum pipe that goes to this valve has a valve in it not sure what this does but can some one tell me should it be a one way valve?because i can blow through both ways.is it faulty?if so what fault would this cause?

like other people on here i don't want to spend money on scv's if that is not the problem i have look at the post about testing the scv's and it says check the continuity between scv terminal and the engine block if there is no continuity change the pump!! is this correct?

thanks

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi same problems here loss of power limp mode p0627 fault code .. I have changed the fuel filter car was fine for a while but then loss of that bit of oomph you normally get when you put your foot down ... it comes and goes so i used wynns egr cleaner ..that helped a little but still not right then saw all this thread so now thinking its these scv . how do I contact Kingo for a price ?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello.

I have a Previa 2,0 d4d 2003 model.190 000 km.

The last to weeks I have had big problem with car completely stopping when it is cold.

I have changed fuel filter and checked connection on all injectors an injector unit.

I also cleaned EGR.

After reading this I am thinking that SVC perhaps is not working 100% when cold but is ok when engine is warm.

Perhaps it moves better when warm?

Could SVC fault cause completely stalling/stopping of engine?

The first ca 10 kilometers the car stopps 20-30 times. A fast ignition off and on starts engine again and runs ok to next stop.

After 10 km everything is ok..anfd car is running great.

It always starts easy .

A experienced mechanic friend wants me to try to change the injection unit.

First ever problem I ever had with Toyota. Has owned a lot:)

Sorry for my bad English.

Hope for help.

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Hi same problems here loss of power limp mode p0627 fault code .. I have changed the fuel filter car was fine for a while but then loss of that bit of oomph you normally get when you put your foot down ... it comes and goes so i used wynns egr cleaner ..that helped a little but still not right then saw all this thread so now thinking its these scv . how do I contact Kingo for a price ?

If you are getting these symptoms with a P0627 then its almost certainly your SCVs. I got my replacements from Thomas Diesel Parts (thomasdieselparts) on UK eBay, cheapest I could find...

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Hello.

I have a Previa 2,0 d4d 2003 model.190 000 km.

The last to weeks I have had big problem with car completely stopping when it is cold.

I have changed fuel filter and checked connection on all injectors an injector unit.

I also cleaned EGR.

After reading this I am thinking that SVC perhaps is not working 100% when cold but is ok when engine is warm.

Perhaps it moves better when warm?

Could SVC fault cause completely stalling/stopping of engine?

The first ca 10 kilometers the car stopps 20-30 times. A fast ignition off and on starts engine again and runs ok to next stop.

After 10 km everything is ok..anfd car is running great.

It always starts easy .

A experienced mechanic friend wants me to try to change the injection unit.

First ever problem I ever had with Toyota. Has owned a lot:)

Sorry for my bad English.

Hope for help.

What OBD2 codes are being generated? If you are getting P0627 then it's very likely to be your SCVs, if not then it probably isnt!

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  • 4 months later...

Hi all, I've just finally fixed the 'limp mode' issue on my 2003 Rav4 D4D.   It was the EGR valve, but it was not really blocked up with carbon.  I gave it a clean with carb cleaner, but I doubt there was any restriction to airflow.   No, the issue was the actual valve itself.  I tried to push it open with my fingers, and it was really stiff, and then it would suddenly open.  It was just sticking.  So I cleaned it up and then put WD40 into the spring mechanism so I could then easily push it open with a smooth operation.  That fixed it as we were getting limp mode every day, and in the 2 weeks since I did this, we haven't got it once.

Hope that helps someone.

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31 minutes ago, andyg2503 said:

Hi all, I've just finally fixed the 'limp mode' issue on my 2003 Rav4 D4D.   It was the EGR valve, but it was not really blocked up with carbon.  I gave it a clean with carb cleaner, but I doubt there was any restriction to airflow.   No, the issue was the actual valve itself.  I tried to push it open with my fingers, and it was really stiff, and then it would suddenly open.  It was just sticking.  So I cleaned it up and then put WD40 into the spring mechanism so I could then easily push it open with a smooth operation.  That fixed it as we were getting limp mode every day, and in the 2 weeks since I did this, we haven't got it once.

Hope that helps someone.

Thanks for the info Andy. Do you know what OBD2 code was being generated by your EGR problem? It's just that this thread is largely about P0627, so if you've corrected that error by cleaning the EGR valve then clearly that OBD2 code isnt just for SCV valves! Hope you can clarify....

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23 hours ago, Mello2 said:

Thanks for the info Andy. Do you know what OBD2 code was being generated by your EGR problem? It's just that this thread is largely about P0627, so if you've corrected that error by cleaning the EGR valve then clearly that OBD2 code isnt just for SCV valves! Hope you can clarify....

No, don't know.  I have a OBD2 reader, but for some reason, I can't get it to work with my RAV.   I was told years ago that the 2003 model was before OBD2 was standardised or something?

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2 hours ago, andyg2503 said:

No, don't know.  I have a OBD2 reader, but for some reason, I can't get it to work with my RAV.   I was told years ago that the 2003 model was before OBD2 was standardised or something?

I think you're probably getting a P0401. If you google that code and RAV4 EGR you'll find loads of relevant/related posts.

good fix though!

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all, just to add to this, I have a 2006 RAV4, has the D-CAT engine, 2.2 diesel, soon as its switched off the fuel rail pressure drops within 30 seconds to around 7psi, it has severe cold start problems, done the usual, Battery, full service, glow plugs etc, when craning the fuel pressure rises slowly, when it gets to around 2000psi, the engine speed cranking speeds up, at 3000psi it starts. At idle it's around the 6000psi mark, if you stab the throttle, it will suddenly peak at around 13000psi. It drives fine, no loss of power anywhere apparent in the rev range, just issues cold starting. 

 

Question is, these valves that get mentioned all the time, are they responsible for maintaining the fuel pressure even when the engine if off? Are they located on the pump on the end of the head, above the gearbox?

 

thanks is anticipation of any replies. 

 

Hugh

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  • 3 months later...
On 31 December 2009 at 3:17 PM, Parts-King said:

SCV Valves can be purchased from Kingo!

PM me for details

Kingo :thumbsup:

Hi, any chance I can have your details to phone you to place an order? Thanks Ben 07737684949

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  • 2 months later...
On 19.10.2013 г. at 7:26 PM, doujoy1944 said:

Since I was having the problem discribed like loss of power and like the power was cutting in and out in the lower gears and no power in the higher gears these valves seemed likely to but my problem.

But having removed them and tested them and the voltage supply going to them then testing them on the workbench to check they were operateing I so far cannot fault them.

Tomorow they will be cleaned and refitted and given a road test to see if any improvement has be gained, if not does this mean that the high pressure pump is at fault and should replaced?

doujoy1944.

 

Hi there,

 was it the scv valves that caused the problem?

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  • 6 months later...

Thanks a lot for this guide, saved me a fortune on my 2005 XT5! Had trouble getting the SCV code (P0627) as it was getting faults with no code. Tried fuel filter (needed doing anyway), cleaned the EGR and MAF sensor, no avail. Mechanic said he'd have to get a diesel specialist in to diagnose it who charged £60 per hour.

Eventually finally gave up a P0627 fault code so I felt justified ordering the SCVs. Got some Denso ones new off eBay for £158. Couldn't get them fitted myself (got in at them but I'm an amateur and didn't wanna screw it up) so asked my mechanic to fit them, £36 but hey, £194 total wasn't a killer. Absolutely fixed this issue, no hesitation, briefly took it up to 100mph on the A1 just to check and drives great.

Did have a worrying moment when all my accelleration went and couldn't keep it over 60mph! Thought the turbo had gone or something! Thankfully turns out when I got back home and opened the bonnet the intercooler pipe had come off! Guessing it hadn't been put on quite tight enough when the mechanic was putting it back together after replacing the SCVs. The lass was like "don't tinker around with it, just take it to a garage" so glad I ignored her and popped it open for a look now haha! 10 minutes with a wrench and a cloth and we're back in business.

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The morale of this story is that if you're getting p0627 then either replace or clean your scvs to clear the problem, then stop buying supermarket ***** diesel and buy more expensive fuel. Since I had the problem I've run on Total Excellium and the car has run fine for a couple of years.

Or you can ignore this advice and get a repeat of the problem in a few months time...

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 6/14/2017 at 3:36 PM, Mello2 said:

The morale of this story is that if you're getting p0627 then either replace or clean your scvs to clear the problem, then stop buying supermarket ***** diesel and buy more expensive fuel. Since I had the problem I've run on Total Excellium and the car has run fine for a couple of years.

Or you can ignore this advice and get a repeat of the problem in a few months time...

Or not!

Just got P0627 again, with engine check light, as usual. After about 18 months on Excellium only the code has come back. The only slightly odd circumstance that occurred before it happened was that the car was unused and stood in 30 degreee heat for three days. I don't know if that had anything to do with the problem though.

I'm currently planning to switch over the SCVs again in the hope it goes away for another year or so, and will update this thread once I know more...

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  • 2 months later...

Hi all, on the 2.0 d4d what is the size of the hex bolts on the SCV's that fix them to the pump?

Regards Steve

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, I have been suffering poor starting for a while now,2005 Rav4 XTR 2.0L D4D 3door. with the occasional limp mode whilst booting it up in third gear. I have done the usual obvious things, serviced, oil and all filters, then glow plugs, even though the old ones where still ok, blanked the egr a few months ago, which has improved the overall running massively, goes really well, but starting still poor, lots of cranking to get going. Before I delved deeper, valve clearance etc, I thought I would check out the SCV valves first. I tested them with meter, readings slightly high, and then removed them and gave them the direct voltage from Battery and they where clicking away nicely. Gave them a good clean, inspected with magnifying glass, which showed up what I expected with 102K on clock, in that the 'O-rings are well worn, flatted and a bit hard. SO REPLACED O-RINGS and refitted, and so far so good. Normal starting, with a definite more urgent pick up from the motor.. Time will tell if this has properly sorted her.

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On 04/07/2017 at 6:22 PM, Mello2 said:

Or not!

Just got P0627 again, with engine check light, as usual. After about 18 months on Excellium only the code has come back. The only slightly odd circumstance that occurred before it happened was that the car was unused and stood in 30 degreee heat for three days. I don't know if that had anything to do with the problem though.

I'm currently planning to switch over the SCVs again in the hope it goes away for another year or so, and will update this thread once I know more...

Repeated problem, swapping old ones back in unsuccessful. New ones purchased, prior to sale of vehicle. Fed up with this, I won't buy a diesel Toyota again :(

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  • 11 months later...

Evening all....

I know this is an old thread but I tested my scv valves and on 2.2 ohms on both so is this indication they are faulty?

Car had been off all day so the engine was stone cold.... outside temperature was about 18 degrees?

 

 

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This is marginally above the spec but the reading is consistent between the two valves. This simply indicates that the solenoid part of the valve is probably OK but tells you nothing about the main valve part. Faulty SCV's will usually throw up a code and the engine will display characteristic symptoms of an SVC valve fault.

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9 hours ago, gjnorthall said:

This is marginally above the spec but the reading is consistent between the two valves. This simply indicates that the solenoid part of the valve is probably OK but tells you nothing about the main valve part. Faulty SCV's will usually throw up a code and the engine will display characteristic symptoms of an SVC valve fault.

I am getting the jerking around 2-3k but with no codes and all resistance and voltage for all sensors etc is within spec.... the only thing that does work is filling the brown/red vacuum valve (unsure of name or part number) with wd40 as it appears to get clogged!? I read it somewhere else and its a different car when I do it... again voltage on the points and resistance all within spec! 

I also get the hot starting issue but think a new upgraded 2.2kw starter may solve this??

SCV where changed about two months ago but above issues were not resolved! Only reason I took the plunge and spent the cash was a Toyota dealer dyno threw up no codes and the garage even said "um we dont know??"

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I think it's fair to dismiss the SCV's as being faulty. I presume you're talking about the VSV (vacuum sensing valve) - sometimes referred to as the VRV (vacuum regulating valve). Sticking of this valve affects boost and often doesn't result in a code. If you remove the valve and shake it - you should feel the shuttle moving from side to side. If you don't, then it's stuck and WD40 will often free it but the results may be short lived . Better still is to spray carburettor cleaner through the valve - drain it - spray WD40 then ensure that any remaining liquid is drained fully. If the WD 40 clean sorts the hesitation problem then you can be reasonably confident that replacing the valve will permanently sort the problem.

For any issue of poor starting, hesitation etc - the first port of call should be the fuel filter. unless you know that it's recently been changed - it's wise to replace it using a good quality element.

 

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57 minutes ago, gjnorthall said:

I think it's fair to dismiss the SCV's as being faulty. I presume you're talking about the VSV (vacuum sensing valve) - sometimes referred to as the VRV (vacuum regulating valve). Sticking of this valve affects boost and often doesn't result in a code. If you remove the valve and shake it - you should feel the shuttle moving from side to side. If you don't, then it's stuck and WD40 will often free it but the results may be short lived . Better still is to spray carburettor cleaner through the valve - drain it - spray WD40 then ensure that any remaining liquid is drained fully. If the WD 40 clean sorts the hesitation problem then you can be reasonably confident that replacing the valve will permanently sort the problem.

For any issue of poor starting, hesitation etc - the first port of call should be the fuel filter. unless you know that it's recently been changed - it's wise to replace it using a good quality element.

 

I did replace the fuel filter in the summer and replaced with a Bosch! I even replaced the in tank element....

What I am getting which may be nothing, is the plunger on the filter housing never remains stiff? I go to periodically push it and I always get a squelch or two then it stiffens up?

Regarding the sensor I spray its the one under the yellow circle!! 

20181014_212940.jpg

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