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RupertRAV4

4.2 D4d Scv Valve Replacement

117 posts in this topic

@Clarke.

Thanks for that input. Is the general feeling that replacing the fuel filter (in this case it's done 16,000 miles) should be the next thing? Since my first post I've cleaned out the EGR and it has made a difference but there is still the occasional hesitation but no limp mode - yet. Trying to avoid spending £200 in the SCV's unless really necessary. Thanks.

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Hey guys, checking back in again, been driving the jeep now steady since I changed the SCV's, even chanced driving it up the costal route to the giants causeway, a long journey I would never take if I thought the Rav was still gonna play up ! But low and behold the valves seem to have done the trick and the jeep is going like a clock again ! Absolute pleasure to dive ( and overtake ) without worrying about her stalling or hitting limp mode !

@Oldraver

I would say that if you are having the same issues that I have described that it probably will have to come down to an SCV replacement, the fuel filter is something you can change yourself and it did make a difference for me both times, but it probably won't last to be honest, at 16,000 it probably won't hurt to do it anyway, start with the cheap fixes and see if they work I always say, fuel filter, egr clean, check all pipes for cracks or leaks where extra air could be getting sucked in, clean everything as good as ya can and stick it all back in ! It actually took me about 3 hours to change the SCV's because the last bolt I tried to take out actually rung the head off itself and I had to weld a bit into it to finally get it out !! There's always 1 little bugger to keep ya back ! Hope you you get on we'll with it ! Keep us posted fella.

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Going off recent threads for both 4.2 and 4.3 I would always start with a fuel filter and then it seems that SCVs are favourite. There was dodgy fuel about not long ago and I think it has left this legacy of fuel system problems.

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@Clarke and @Anchorman

Thanks for the additional replies - the fuel filter is next on the list for replacement!

I'll let you know how that works out. Currently the Rav is running pretty well but it's a short motorway run to my local Mr T. to get the filter so that should show up any continuing issues. Looks like it will be the SCV's after that following RupertRav's excellent directions. Just have to watch out for that difficult Allen bolt! Thanks again.

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Just an update - have fitted a new fuel filter - seems to have helped but still getting the odd hesitation although nothing like it was before. Going to do a proper run from here to Bedfordshire in a couple of days so that should be the way of making up my mind re replacement of the SCV's. In the meantime I'll ask Kingo for a price for the parts.

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hi all, ive been following this for a few days as i too have a hesitation on acceleration recently.

im going to change the fuel filter tomorrow to see if this cures any problems, but as my Rav is a 4.3, it doesnt seem to have the same layout as a 4.2 for the scv's

Could anyone shed some light? or is it a case of " cant see the wood for the trees" ?

Pics would be amazing

Ta

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@greenshiregaz

Sorry, can't help you with the 4.3 pics but there will almost certainly be someone here who can.

As an update to my problems - I changed the fuel filter ran it for a while and still got some hesitation - so I cleaned out the EGR as best I could, there was quite a bit of carbon in there, and this seems to have made the difference. I also bought a can of 'Diesel Magic' and added it to a full tank - have to say had no problems at all since then (actually maybe one little 'cough' when the engine was cold) - not convinced that I still won't need to replace the SCv's at some point but for the moment everything is good. I'm going to add RedEx to my next full tank just to keep things sweet.

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There is only one SCV on a 4.3. Put some BG244 through it before you get too heavy.

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There is only one SCV on a 4.3. Put some BG244 through it before you get too heavy.

Shall do, thanks fella

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There is only one SCV on a 4.3. Put some BG244 through it before you get too heavy.

Shall do, thanks fella

Just to update....replaced the fuel filter on my stuttering Rav, and poured a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank for good measure and i can happily say the car is driving superb again.

To all out there that arent getting warning dash lights with the stuttering.... Take Anchormans advice (and others :-) ) and start small... change the fuel filter first. Its simple to do if you follow the guide on here.

Cheers Gents. Top advice as always.

Gar

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I need a pair Scv Valves Toyota Avensis verso D4D Year 2004

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Since I was having the problem discribed like loss of power and like the power was cutting in and out in the lower gears and no power in the higher gears these valves seemed likely to but my problem.

But having removed them and tested them and the voltage supply going to them then testing them on the workbench to check they were operateing I so far cannot fault them.

Tomorow they will be cleaned and refitted and given a road test to see if any improvement has be gained, if not does this mean that the high pressure pump is at fault and should replaced?

doujoy1944.

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hi all, ive been following this for a few days as i too have a hesitation on acceleration recently.

im going to change the fuel filter tomorrow to see if this cures any problems, but as my Rav is a 4.3, it doesnt seem to have the same layout as a 4.2 for the scv's

Could anyone shed some light? or is it a case of " cant see the wood for the trees" ?

Pics would be amazing

Ta

The only reson for this matter is that my mechanic Said that the reason for the light on all the time on the dash is the S C Valve But my car is powerful I dont know why the light stays on!! I might have to get it tested!! to see where the problem lies!! Any other ideas as to why the light stays on all the time?? how can i take it off for good.......

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Hi there i have a Toyota Avensis verso D4D Year 2004 The management light shows all the time!!! an idea what it could be?? I thought it was S C Valves But dont think it is!! is there any way to disconnect the light for good??

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Have you tried a fuel filter? If the flow is restricted by the filter it will starve the SCVs. For the guy asking about 4.3s, the pump is different in that it only has one valve instead of two. They rarely go wrong.

For those with the older pump (4.2) the bench check can show OK and they still stick. However, some owners have had some success by cleaning them with clean diesel. You could try carb cleaner I suppose.

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Many thanks to Rupert for the initial post and follow ups.

After 2 difficult winters with the common "engine light", loss of power and difficult start, I had a RAV4 who did not want to start anymore. (147000 km)

I therefore changed the fuel filter and removed the SCV valves to check them. I found them pretty clean and I tested them by connecting them directly to the battery. It seems to me that they were stuck initially but they "CLACKed" pretty well after one or 2 tests.

The toyota started right away after I put everything together.

I suspect the SCV to be the problem by being stuck during the startup sequence. I would encourage anybody who encounters these problems to initially check the valves (without removing them).

I read somewhere that during cold temperature, the piston of the SCV valve is not moving freely anymore. that might be it (warming up the valve with a heat gun was one of the solution given...).

Cheers !

.vince

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A follow up on this issue.

I haven't drive the RAV4 for months. Although, it started, the usual loss of power, engine light occurred.

This time I left the SCV in place and decided to test tem by connecting them directly to the battery.

The red one clacked on first try but the green was definitely stuck. It took 4 or 5 tries to free it.

The drive confirmed the problem was gone.

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4.2 RAV4 D4-D SCV Valves:

Ok, here goes with the details I know about the SCV valves and their replacement on the 4.2 RAV4 D4-D. Or at least this is how I did it, maybe not the best way but it worked for me! I have yet to look on the official Toyota technical website to see if there are any better instructions in their service manual.

Background:

The symptoms were fairly similar to others who have posted on the forum, ie: loss of power, especially at the top end of the rev range above 3000rpm. Sometimes it would be fairly intermittent and at others the RAV could not get out of its own way!! There was no MIL to start with but that soon changed..... It would come on and off but then it came on and stayed on. The DTC stored was P0627 relating mainly (as it says there could be something else causing the problem) to the SCV valves as below:

RAV4DTCP0627.jpg

I also checked the electrical side of the valves, but mine were both in spec. You can check for continuity between the valves and the engine block and resistance across the valves themselves:

scvvalvesresist.jpg

scvvalves.jpg

And if required the following shows the wiring between the SCV valves and the Engine ECU:

scvvalveswiring.jpg

New valves were purchased from Kingo [aka Parts-King on the Forum] for £194.16 inc. VAT & p&p. Part # is: 04221-27011 and is described as: "Pump Kit, Supply". Ace service from him!

Replacement:

Firstly I undid the two nuts holding the coolant tank in place. Then carefully lifted the tank off the studs (and the locating spigot under the tank) and moved it to the left. I managed to fix the right hand hole onto the left hand stud (if that makes sense!) and could then hold it in place with a nut put on finger tight. Just kept it nicely out the way although you could achieve the same thig using a cable tie I guess. Then I removed the air intake pipe running between the front of the intercooler and the throttle body. This is the main, large diameter black pipe in the photo below (the location of the SCV valves is highlighted by the red circle):

1.jpg

Once this is done you should have something which looks like this:

2.jpg

I also removed the nut holding the wiring loom trunking in place (in the green circle) to gain better access. The red circle is where the SCV valves are.

To identify between the two valves, the front one is redish brown and is SCV 1, and the rearmost one is green and is SCV2. I did one valve at a time to ensure I didn't mix them up and started with the rear most one (closest to the engine block) as this is the most difficult to do because of the limited access. Always better to start with the hard one as when you're bored and tired the second one seems easier!

After undoing the electrical connectors to each valve I then removed the cap/allen head screws holding the valves themselves in place. I needed to use a small screwdriver between the flange and the fuel pump to carefully prise the valve out of it's housing as it was quite tight. Once removed you can push the new one into place. Due to the limited access I could not push the valve fully home so used the fixing screws by tightening each screw a few turns each, alternating between each one, to make sure that it went in square. The other valve was changed in the same way but was a little easier due to the better access.

The following photo shows the new rear (green) valve in place and the old front (red) one removed before fitting the new one:

3.jpg

Once both new valves were in place I wiped up as much of the spilt diesel as I could (not much came out when the valves were removed really), just helps to check for leaks if the area you're checking is already dry. Then I replaced all the components I'd taken off.

Not sure if it helped but I pressed the priming button on top of the fuel filter head until I felt resistance to make sure the fuel system was full.

That's it! The engine started almost immediately and ran fine. On the second ignition cycle the MIL went out and has been out since (keeping my fingers crossed here!).

I guess it will be a good idea to get the fault codes cleared at some point as the original DTC will still be present as a historic code. Always good practice to clear the fault codes once you have fixed the problem.

The following photo shows the old valves. The new ones didn't look any different to be honest, except cleaner!

4.jpg

All in it took about 1hour from start to finish.

Hope this helps someone else! smile.gif great right up going to replace mine today hopefully

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Help ive got this problem now and had a look at the job requirements? How the hell do u get to the rear bolts on scv 2 what tool did you use

Cheers

Rob

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Hi Vince,

Can you explain how you go about connecting them directly to the battery?

My rav d4d is always low on power esp 1st, 2nd and third gear hitting above 2-3000 revs. I have had P1251 code with mil light a few times now. I am suspecting the scv's

Cheers

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Hi,

Just connect some wires on the + and - of the battery. I used 2,5mm² copper wire for domestic electric network. Be careful not to short the battery.

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On my dads, he has had the valves replaced as he was getting the P0093 fault. It now seems as if it needs a software update.. Does anyone know how to go about getting that sorted? Any idea of cost?

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Despite much procrastination finally having to do the valves! Yesterday had an initial look at what was involved. All seems quite straightforward except that bolt right at the back. Very little access in there so what have people used to get that bolt out?

There's a pipe that really gets in the way - it's made up of steel with a flexible shielded rubber part that gets in the way. Is this a fuel pipe? Can it be safely disconnected? Could I risk giving it a slight bend? It appears to be bolted to the engine block so I'm wondering if unbolting it might give me the extra access space. I'm sorry I can't provide a photo to make things clearer

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A variation on the theme, but similar in many ways...

I replaced the SCVs (Suction Control Valves) about a year ago (DENSO replacements) and everything worked fine until about a month back, then the same error code P0627 was generated by the same lack of power problem (essentially the power dips after about 2,300 revs in second, third and fourth).

Weirdly though if I do one of the following two things the car works fine for about a week (say 100 miles?):-

1) take the current valves out and clean them and put them back inor2) swap back to the original valves after cleaning 

- so the valves themselves are not faulty?

The fact is that the car works perfectly when it works, so I can't see that there is a mechanical fault with the fuel pump.

I'm reluctant to give it to Toyota as it is only worth a couple of grand and this would get swallowed up easily with extensive diagnostics or replacing the fuel pump/ECU/turbo whatever!

However, I am also aware that there 'may' be a software upgrade available from Toyota that may help...??

Can anyone make sense of this??? I've run out of patience and would happily chuck the ****** thing away!

Help!

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Hey Mello2,

Have you checked all your black air pipes for cracks, taken everything out cleaned everything and checked

your EGR valve ? If that fails you should maybe try and take out the 2 SCV's again and do as the guys above

have stated about putting a battery and some wires to the valves to check they are both working properly,

even after a year there is a possibility that 1 could start to stick or cease up on you ! Thats all I could recommend

really, start with the cheap easy fixes and work through the list dude !

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