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Clutch Story, Again....


JohnYossarian
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Hello,

I have not posted for quite some time. I had my clutch changed at Toyota in September. This gave me three years of warranty. From the very beginning however I had problem switching some gears, more specifically the reverse one. Since recently I have noticed that even 1st, 2nd, 3ed, 4th and 5th they all have become problematic, especially when the car is cold. After 10-15 mins driving when the temp gets back to normal, this problem fades away, till the next morning.

I am having my car seen in the same Toyota garage in a week time on Saturday for my rear brake disk (got it changed at Toyota last April but have noticed wrapping of the disk, this should not happen after less than one year should it?) so I am goin to point this problem out as well.

What is wrong with these cluthces? I drive VW regualrly at work and have never had any hints of problematic gear change. For a new clutch to wear after less than 4000 miles, this is unheard of.

Any ideas what might have gone wrong? Can it be hydraulics?

On a different topic. I am having my car serviced at Toyota but all they can do for oil is semi-synthetic. I have a place where I can put Mobil full synthetic very high grade oil. Will Toyota respect my oil change there and do the rest of servicing at ther garage? Anyone had experience with similar thing?

Cheers!

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When you book the car in, tell us you want fully synthetic oil put in, and I will make sure it happens ;)

Kingo :thumbsup:

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My wifes car has the same problem with the gear changing and i wonder if replacing the gear box oil with a better grade of oil might make a difference as when the box warms up it is as sweet as a nut.

As for the engine oil i always bring Castrol edge 0w 30 with me and watch them put it in as well. It is a far better oil than the Shell rubbish my local dealer uses and does make a real good difference on cold start up.

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Maybe ask them to bleed the hydraulic clutch? Also, if the correct oil wasnt put back in the gearbox, this could give similar prob.

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Maybe ask them to bleed the hydraulic clutch? Also, if the correct oil wasnt put back in the gearbox, this could give similar prob.

Hi Phil,

I have to check whether they changed the gear box oil last time I had the car serviced. I do not remember seeing this on the invoice but I might be wrong.

Can it be that either slave or master cylinder are not working properly? That was my initial thought but then, as the car warms up things improve, although it is still stiff switiching the gears. Yet very strange for a new clutch. Is not this supposed to survive at least 5 years? I know that some people drive their cars for 10 years without haaving to replace the clutch.

Cheers.

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My wifes car has the same problem with the gear changing and i wonder if replacing the gear box oil with a better grade of oil might make a difference as when the box warms up it is as sweet as a nut.

As for the engine oil i always bring Castrol edge 0w 30 with me and watch them put it in as well. It is a far better oil than the shell rubbish my local dealer uses and does make a real good difference on cold start up.

Have you taken the car to the garage for this problem? I will post what I will be told a week tomorrow.

I found that Mobil 0w 30 full synthetic is perfect for the job. As Kingo mentions in his reply I will ask them for full synthetic next time. For semi-synthetic I was given something like £ 85 last time I asked. I hope the full synthetic would not come far more expensive.

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Maybe ask them to bleed the hydraulic clutch? Also, if the correct oil wasnt put back in the gearbox, this could give similar prob.

Hi Phil,

I have to check whether they changed the gear box oil last time I had the car serviced. I do not remember seeing this on the invoice but I might be wrong.

Can it be that either slave or master cylinder are not working properly? That was my initial thought but then, as the car warms up things improve, although it is still stiff switiching the gears. Yet very strange for a new clutch. Is not this supposed to survive at least 5 years? I know that some people drive their cars for 10 years without haaving to replace the clutch.

Cheers.

Could be an oil problem then. Best thing to do is give it back to them and tell them to get it sorted. Has it always been like this or only from when clutch was replaced?

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Maybe ask them to bleed the hydraulic clutch? Also, if the correct oil wasnt put back in the gearbox, this could give similar prob.

Hi Phil,

I have to check whether they changed the gear box oil last time I had the car serviced. I do not remember seeing this on the invoice but I might be wrong.

Can it be that either slave or master cylinder are not working properly? That was my initial thought but then, as the car warms up things improve, although it is still stiff switiching the gears. Yet very strange for a new clutch. Is not this supposed to survive at least 5 years? I know that some people drive their cars for 10 years without haaving to replace the clutch.

Cheers.

Could be an oil problem then. Best thing to do is give it back to them and tell them to get it sorted. Has it always been like this or only from when clutch was replaced?

After the clutch change it has not been perfect but I thought it might need some time to settle down. Now after 5 months it got worse. I hope that it will survivethe week. last night it almost got me stuck in a roundabout.

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I hope the full synthetic would not come far more expensive.

Not if you see me it wont be ;)

Kingo :thumbsup:

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I hope the full synthetic would not come far more expensive.

Not if you see me it wont be ;)

Kingo :thumbsup:

Hi Kingo,

Next Saturday I will be in Queensferry. I will explain the situation to Mike.

Cheers,

Jordan

PS Are you going to be around?

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Hello again,

Now I am convinced that it is the gear box oil that needs changin. As soon as the car warms up the problem disappear.

I bought the car in 2007 (October). It is 03Reg. What is th efrequency of gear box oil change and how much is it?

What oil should I go for?

Thanks!

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I hope the full synthetic would not come far more expensive.

Not if you see me it wont be ;)

Kingo :thumbsup:

Hi Kingo,

Next Saturday I will be in Queensferry. I will explain the situation to Mike.

Cheers,

Jordan

PS Are you going to be around?

Sorry I wont be in, do you need the oil for that Saturday?

Kingo :thumbsup:

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Hello,

I have not posted for quite some time. I had my clutch changed at Toyota in September. This gave me three years of warranty. From the very beginning however I had problem switching some gears, more specifically the reverse one. Since recently I have noticed that even 1st, 2nd, 3ed, 4th and 5th they all have become problematic, especially when the car is cold. After 10-15 mins driving when the temp gets back to normal, this problem fades away, till the next morning.

I am having my car seen in the same Toyota garage in a week time on Saturday for my rear brake disk (got it changed at Toyota last April but have noticed wrapping of the disk, this should not happen after less than one year should it?) so I am goin to point this problem out as well.

What is wrong with these cluthces? I drive VW regualrly at work and have never had any hints of problematic gear change.

Glad its not just me who thinks the gearchange is definatley stiffer first thing in the morning.

I would agree that it improves as the engine/transmission warms up but sometimes its a bu**er to get in and out of 1st gear!

Adyone

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The situation is getting worse. Yesterday I could not start the car (get into gear) for 10 mins until it warmed up. Since the temps dropped again it is getting really difficult. After that it gets very smooth (after about 30 minutes engine being ON.

Tomorrow I have an appointment at the garage and will ask for this to be looked at (sorted). Can anyone shed some light for hiw much I should prepare myself? Geara box oil change should not be too much, should it?

Thanks!

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The situation is getting worse. Yesterday I could not start the car (get into gear) for 10 mins until it warmed up. Since the temps dropped again it is getting really difficult. After that it gets very smooth (after about 30 minutes engine being ON.

Tomorrow I have an appointment at the garage and will ask for this to be looked at (sorted). Can anyone shed some light for hiw much I should prepare myself? Geara box oil change should not be too much, should it?

Thanks!

Personally, I don't think it is the gearbox oil causing the problem. To me, the clutch is dragging (not clearing fully) and the situation is only made worse when the gearbox oil is cold and thick.

Clutch drag is usually down to the hydraulics being weak but can be the actual clutch unit itself.

The clutch has never been right since it was fitted, so take it back to Mr T. and tell them not to give you it back until they have put it right.

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The situation is getting worse. Yesterday I could not start the car (get into gear) for 10 mins until it warmed up. Since the temps dropped again it is getting really difficult. After that it gets very smooth (after about 30 minutes engine being ON.

Tomorrow I have an appointment at the garage and will ask for this to be looked at (sorted). Can anyone shed some light for hiw much I should prepare myself? Geara box oil change should not be too much, should it?

Thanks!

Personally, I don't think it is the gearbox oil causing the problem. To me, the clutch is dragging (not clearing fully) and the situation is only made worse when the gearbox oil is cold and thick.

Clutch drag is usually down to the hydraulics being weak but can be the actual clutch unit itself.

The clutch has never been right since it was fitted, so take it back to Mr T. and tell them not to give you it back until they have put it right.

Thank you Q.S.

My initial thought was the clutch. But then someone here suggested the oil and it coincides with the fact that when the car gets warm the problem almost disappear. This is practically a new clutch, installed at Toyota back in September with three years guarantee.

I will raise it with them tomorrow.

Cheers,

Jordan

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The situation is getting worse. Yesterday I could not start the car (get into gear) for 10 mins until it warmed up. Since the temps dropped again it is getting really difficult. After that it gets very smooth (after about 30 minutes engine being ON.

Tomorrow I have an appointment at the garage and will ask for this to be looked at (sorted). Can anyone shed some light for hiw much I should prepare myself? Geara box oil change should not be too much, should it?

Thanks!

Personally, I don't think it is the gearbox oil causing the problem. To me, the clutch is dragging (not clearing fully) and the situation is only made worse when the gearbox oil is cold and thick.

Clutch drag is usually down to the hydraulics being weak but can be the actual clutch unit itself.

The clutch has never been right since it was fitted, so take it back to Mr T. and tell them not to give you it back until they have put it right.

Thank you Q.S.

My initial thought was the clutch. But then someone here suggested the oil and it coincides with the fact that when the car gets warm the problem almost disappear. This is practically a new clutch, installed at Toyota back in September with three years guarantee.

I will raise it with them tomorrow.

Cheers,

Jordan

Q.S. You were right, spot on. The car is due for a clutch check (disassemble the thing) on 17th. Being under warranty laboru&parts are covered, but (as usual there is a but" should it be the flay-wheel then I might be looking at something serious.

What is your gut feeling, how likely is it to be the fly-wheel? I have read several posts in this forum where this has been the culprit, although IIRC it was the model up to 2003. For the new (not the newest 2009 of course) model MK2 the majority of opinions was that they have resolved the issue.

Anyway, the car drives easier after being checked (they might have done something for the time being). Definitely no oil was needed.

Cheers,

Jordan

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The situation is getting worse. Yesterday I could not start the car (get into gear) for 10 mins until it warmed up. Since the temps dropped again it is getting really difficult. After that it gets very smooth (after about 30 minutes engine being ON.

Tomorrow I have an appointment at the garage and will ask for this to be looked at (sorted). Can anyone shed some light for hiw much I should prepare myself? Geara box oil change should not be too much, should it?

Thanks!

Personally, I don't think it is the gearbox oil causing the problem. To me, the clutch is dragging (not clearing fully) and the situation is only made worse when the gearbox oil is cold and thick.

Clutch drag is usually down to the hydraulics being weak but can be the actual clutch unit itself.

The clutch has never been right since it was fitted, so take it back to Mr T. and tell them not to give you it back until they have put it right.

Thank you Q.S.

My initial thought was the clutch. But then someone here suggested the oil and it coincides with the fact that when the car gets warm the problem almost disappear. This is practically a new clutch, installed at Toyota back in September with three years guarantee.

I will raise it with them tomorrow.

Cheers,

Jordan

Q.S. You were right, spot on. The car is due for a clutch check (disassemble the thing) on 17th. Being under warranty laboru&parts are covered, but (as usual there is a but" should it be the flay-wheel then I might be looking at something serious.

What is your gut feeling, how likely is it to be the fly-wheel? I have read several posts in this forum where this has been the culprit, although IIRC it was the model up to 2003. For the new (not the newest 2009 of course) model MK2 the majority of opinions was that they have resolved the issue.

Anyway, the car drives easier after being checked (they might have done something for the time being). Definitely no oil was needed.

Cheers,

Jordan

Not sure what sort of clutch/flywheel is in there but if they have just fitted a clutch they should have seen any problem with the flywheel. Hopefully someone else will be conversant with the clutch/flywheel fitted in this model and be able to give you a better idea. I based my thoughts on general engineering principles rather than model specifics.

Sorry I can't be more helpful.

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Not sure what sort of clutch/flywheel is in there but if they have just fitted a clutch they should have seen any problem with the flywheel. Hopefully someone else will be conversant with the clutch/flywheel fitted in this model and be able to give you a better idea. I based my thoughts on general engineering principles rather than model specifics.

Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Q.S. you have helped me a lot. Thank you.

I think that Beagh1958 knows about the flywheel, I remember him netioning it a few timems in the past.

Beagh, can you please, chip in and shed some light on my problem?

Cheers,

Jordan

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