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I agree about the Yuasa battery (used them on many cars and simply no issues) I joined this forum to find out what issues i might have buying a new Corolla and apart from the battery issues,the Toyota app and now the RSA which won't switch off on 24 models i don't see many other issues. Just buy a battery...yes Toyota should have done better but spending 20/30k on a car what is another £100 for peace of mind.

Hi. I'm Terry. Does anybody know what model carby should be on an 18R engine. Mine is a Nikki but I suspect it's not the original or what carbys would suit. Ta

Yeah that sort of thing has never really been a strength of Toyota - They tend to prioritise reliability and safety, so things like infotainment and interfaces tend to feel a bit out of date compared to the competition; They're functional and work, but don't have the frills that you get with some other marques. I like things simple so it suits me, but I know people used to BMW and VAG stuff feel like they've stepped back a decade But then I also feel the same when I see what they have to go through to get at their oil filter

Bomb

To be fair if you're buying new you have money to burn by definition! Buying a car new is not something a budget-conscious person would do - You loose so much money just driving it away! Even just waiting a few years will slash the price of it from new; You can get an early Mk4 for half the cost of a new one and they're barely 3 years old! That is what I was planning on doing if it hadn't been for KHAAAAN! (Well, that's not strictly true either as I was planning on running my Mk1 D4D into the ground waiting for my mythical 300+mile Yaris EV, but the Mk4 was the backup plan!), although finding one with a HUD would likely have been a bit tricky as it doesn't seem there are many aside from the Launch Editions, but those don't come with the bucket-load of sensors mine does (Which I'm hoping will help mine retain its value a bit more!!)

Both are related to an over rev condition, the car lost drive and the rpm shot up it could be a weak pressure plate or bearing

Fensport are great - Always very helpful on the few times I've sourced stuff from them. You could get 2nd hand ones for a lot less, but may be a bit of a gamble as it's difficult to know what condition they're in. On a side note, what's so good about coilovers vs normal shocks and springs anyway?

Good point. They are staked into a groove of the driveshaft end. You can use a screwdriver to push it out. You are meant to replace the locking cap. Order one so you have a new to replace with.

The least hassle route if you can afford it is to just get the Yuasa and fit it rather than jump through all these hoops. That said mine is still working, although it said failed in the HHC certificate again (It has a section specifically for the 12v battery) after I had to take it back because they forgot to do the HHC when they did the service! . But that was after nearly 2 weeks of minimal use over the Easter Hols. I think my high use is keeping it just alive enough, but I'm deffo keeping that NOCO charged and ready!

Why don’t you try a RAV PHEV with the later infotainment system? Or, use your phone apps? Seems a bonkers reason to change car so quickly and cost your wallet a significant hit paying for the depreciation. I do agree the infotainment is poor by today’s standards and the sat nav is rubbish, but it’s not unusable. In my view there are more important considerations when choosing a car. Remember, There is no such thing as a perfect car.

@flash22 thanks for your answer. I have removed gearbox by now, and clutch.. ordered new one to pick up tomorrow morning. I haven't got that manual what you have left , I have removed clutch actuator without that clamp position. Clutch disk is not looking mad worn, as seen on manual cars. It went slipping when went to 2 and on gears. Any advice to reset that clutch actuator? (Seen in YouTube guy were removing actuator motor, and winding fully back, then half turn forward - would that be solution ? ) The errors what shown I'll try post picture. Wonder errors was due slipping clutch? Thanks in advance.

Sound like you may have a leak or power connection that causes this problem to be intermittent. It's worth opening the bonnet when you can hear that it is not running right. Try to locate where the increase in sound comes from. Pull on cables, hoses and intake pipes. If you locate something that appears to make a noise or make a difference in the running when you move it - take a photo and share. Have you cleaned the engine recently or driven the car through a lot of rain / standing water? Sometimes water that splashes over the engine can work its way down the spark plug wells and cause rough, hesitant running. When was the car serviced last? Are the spark plugs old?

I have a rather good battery chain saw. It could even fit in a shoulder holster. Chop off a limb in no time. Even cut down small trees

It could be because the wiring looms are manufactured in the same factory as camembert.

Well that all sounds very good - The supply chain seems to be recovering a bit and getting these dampers to customers finally!

That's why I love this forum - Always a Bounty of good humour, although this thread might turn into a bit of a Marathon It depends; If it's a Makita or Festool or Milwaukee or something like that you're probably okay as no psycho murderer would use tools of that sort of quality. If it's a DeWalt or Black&Decker or god forbid B&Q-own brand then floor it and don't look back! But it's the ones muttering things like "Yess yeess they'lll seee!" or "Hail Satan!" that you've got to look out for, even if they claim they're just humming the lyrics to a metal song!

How many miles has it done? Can't just spot that anywhere...

mk1 and mk2 Auto aygo's are MMT C1542 Vehicle Speed Signal Abnormal Decrease more than likely an EPS problem C1545 can you please confirm this is the correct code, as it has a few different meanings other than the generic OBD2 one in all honesty, it sounds like it needs a new clutch and clear the codes INF12215_GB.pdf

Things that spring to mind for checking are for dirty MAF sensor, dirty injectors, dirty spark plugs. May also be a slight leak somewhere on the intake or exhaust from a failing gasket or a mouse-chewed pipe or something like that. These are all just random pulled-out-of-my-proverbial suggestions though!

Sounds very stereotypically french - Very nice cars to be in when you're waiting for recovery I don't know why but they always seem to have a big weakness in their electronics. Their engines tend to be fairly reliable and even refined, esp. the diesels, and they often have some of the most comfortable interiors and suspension setups, but they're always let down by the electronics...!

I just pick the closest one - There are slight differences between e.g. HP, BHP, PS etc. but everyone seems to have the bad habit of saying HP when they actually mean one of the others!

Kevin, first thing, don't risk buying a cheap charger. NOCO and CTEK figure frequently here. I use a CTEK5

Yep, and although I hated the Peugeot 3008 hybrid4 GT 300 I had for nearly year before the R4P the driver display was superb. Tom Tom 3D built in showing the overview on the infotainment display and then a high Res large image of the zoomed in directions in the central part of the display, if you wanted to. And many other cool features. But the drive trained sucked, was unreliable, inefficient, and barely got 12 miles a charge in mild winter versus the 37 claimed. And then there were other problems. Like serious problems. Had nothing remotely on that scale from the R4P.

Mills (John)

I press the hold button at that point rather than put it into park.