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Gen 6 St202 Clutch Change And Procedure


JZee
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Hi guys

My Celica just passed its MOT. I was worried about the emissions as Celica's are not the best for emission test. So I put in a pre-MOT treatment and used higher octane fuel. so was all good. Anyway since I put the treatment I've noticed lack of power transfer from engine to wheels. looks like clutch is slipping. I believe my it is doing its last leg. I've been feeling that lack of power for sometime but it appeared very significantly after that treatment thing.

anyway, should I get a standard clutch kit or an aftermarket? could you please advise whether this is an engine out or a box drop sort of job? also can I DIY on wheel ramps and axle stands or do I need more than that because I don't want to pay 250-350 quid for a job that I can DIY.

also what's the expected time to do this job considering it is the first time to do it? also i'd be grateful if anyone could give me some guidelines of how to?

maybe i can post pictures while doing it so others could get the benefit of it.

thanks

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my clutch went not long after buying it. 106,000 miles on it but all still feeling good.

i put my foot down after a roundabout shifting 3rd to 4th, rev's shot up but no more go

i went for a standard QH clutch kit from the local motorshop.

on the driveway at home it took me (a limited experience home mechanic) about 3 days of taking my time with limited tools

jack up the front end,

both wheels off.

undercovers off.

drain gearbox,

driveshafts out.

airbox assembly out.

starter motor out.

centre engine support off (so youll need a jack underneath)

disconnect all plugs and link rods to gearbox

support weight of gearbox

unbolt gearbox

pull it out/off underneath

swapping the clutch and pressure plate is the easy bit really. just get it aligned up in the centre (i didnt have a tool for this only my eyes lol)

then put it all back together.

i used ratchet straps wrapped around the strut brace and a jack underneath to help lift it back in. and once the box is lined up to attach back to the engine. give the gears a wiggle to help the clutch plate slide onto the splines of the gearbox input shaft. should slot right in and bolt everything back up.

dont forget refill your gearbox!! and re-check the level 50 - 100 miles later

hope this all helps, i've probably missed something but i did mine 2 years ago

it would have been quicker too but 1 of the driveshafts refused to come off

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my clutch went not long after buying it. 106,000 miles on it but all still feeling good.

i put my foot down after a roundabout shifting 3rd to 4th, rev's shot up but no more go

i went for a standard QH clutch kit from the local motorshop.

on the driveway at home it took me (a limited experience home mechanic) about 3 days of taking my time with limited tools

jack up the front end,

both wheels off.

undercovers off.

drain gearbox,

driveshafts out.

airbox assembly out.

starter motor out.

centre engine support off (so youll need a jack underneath)

disconnect all plugs and link rods to gearbox

support weight of gearbox

unbolt gearbox

pull it out/off underneath

swapping the clutch and pressure plate is the easy bit really. just get it aligned up in the centre (i didnt have a tool for this only my eyes lol)

then put it all back together.

i used ratchet straps wrapped around the strut brace and a jack underneath to help lift it back in. and once the box is lined up to attach back to the engine. give the gears a wiggle to help the clutch plate slide onto the splines of the gearbox input shaft. should slot right in and bolt everything back up.

dont forget refill your gearbox!! and re-check the level 50 - 100 miles later

hope this all helps, i've probably missed something but i did mine 2 years ago

it would have been quicker too but 1 of the driveshafts refused to come off

Thanks for the info. mine has 189k on it! seems to me like a hell of a job but do I need to take off the airbox assembly? and what do you mean by align the clutch up the center...could you please explain a bit more. Also don't have a strut brace .... is the gearbox heavy? I take it you drained it to reduce its weight? or is there a reason for it?

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removed the whole airbox assembly to gain access to the top of the gearbox. then you can disconnect the plugs and shifter links. the more room you have the better

the clutch plate needs to be exactly in the centre of the flywheel and pressure plate. if its off. you wont get the gearbox input shaft lined up properly and it wont bolt back up.

the box is just about liftable when not on the vehicle (approx 80kg) but since you'll need to squeeze it into and out its very awkward. an engine hoist or small crane would be better

and finally, the driveshafts slot straight into the gearbox. if you dont drain it via the plug hole. it would all come out the driveshaft holes instead!!

just take your time and be prepared to tackle things that refuse to come off.

(i'm currently mid cam belt change, working on it an hour or so after work each day)

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